As you may remember, due to the attacks on shipping in the Suez Canal by the Houthi Terrorists and the world’s anemic response, most Cruise and cargo ships altered their itineraries to travel around South Africa, so Cape Town was added to our destination list. We thoroughly enjoyed our 2 days in Cape Town and surrounding South Africa . . . truly one of the world’s great destinations.
We had a great sense of calm on this trip so far, even with the rerouting due to the problems in the Red Sea and Suez Canal. I believe it was on day 40 that we didn’t want the experience to end.
It was at this point in our journey that I made the decision to continue with photo documentation of the trip and research, but postpone writing and editing the Blog Posts until the conclusion of the trip. We needed to allow more time to enjoy the trip and prepare for upcoming excursions.
On day 49, marking the halfway point of our extended cruise, we departed for Walvis Bay, Namibia and traveled the 710 nautical miles over 1.5 days enjoying enrichment lectures, relaxation, as well as, sun by the pool and our mid-ship balcony.
Namibia, is a large and sparsely populated country on Africa’s south-west coast that has enjoyed stability since gaining independence in 1990 after a long struggle against rule by South Africa. Roughly twice the size of Texas, but with 3 million residents has only 1/10 the population. It is the driest country in Sub-Saharan Africa and has an unemployment rate of about 35% and depends on agriculture, tourism and mining for its economic base. About 40% of the population lives in poverty.
On Day 50, at 9 am we arrived at the Port of Walvis Bay in a light fog and 65º, giving way to a hazy sunshine and warmer temps as the day wore on. Walvis Bay is the second largest city in Namibia and the largest coastal city in the country. The harbor is busy with fishing boats and ships. East of the bay, coastal sand dunes like Dune 7 mark the start of the Namib Desert.
We experienced this port just last year on a Cruise from Cape Town to Rio and elected to stay on board. As evidenced by the oil slick and funky smell, there were issues in the harbor apparently not from the fuel barge on our port side.
On our trip in January of 2023 we chose an excursion using a closed, 7 passenger off-road Vehicle to view the treasures of the Namib desert. It was a chilly 65 degrees at the start, but would warm up to 75 with the sun. Armand, our driver originally from South Africa and now Namibia, would narrate as we travelled over the dirt roads to the impressive sand dunes , the moon landscape and unusual flora. . . no need to repeat that day this trip, we enjoyed our quiet time on the ship.
After all were aboard, we left the dock at 6:00 pm while enjoying a pre-dinner cocktail at Crooner’s Lounge.
We slipped through the returning fog out of the harbor and began our 7.5 day journey traveling northwest in the South Atlantic on a 3,330 nautical mile journey to Cabo Verde. For the next week we enjoyed calm to moderate seas and days filled with exercise, enrichment, Stock Option Trading, Bobamala research and enjoying new friendships over cocktails, sumptuous diners and special events.
On Day 53, another day of 80º temperatures and calm seas, we scheduled a “Wines of the World” special event featuring the pairing of gourmet dishes and a sampling of a selection of wines. The Director of Restaurant Operations, Daniele Rosafio and Executive Chef, Nageswar Dinand hosted this spectacular event in Sabatini’s Specialty restaurant.
The menu and wine selections were wonderful, courses were punctuated by narratives of each selection.
Paired with Chocolate block Cabernet Sauvignon (South Africa)
Paired with Quinta de Noval Port Touriga Franca (Portugal)
We woke on Day 54, 84°and overcast to a calm sea west of Gabon, Africa at equator, traveling NW @ 16 knots (18.4 mph). We were in the Doldrums 350 nm w of Africa. The doldrums is a natural phenomenon that happens near the equator. The region has low atmospheric pressure and lack of a significant amount of wind. Also, the weather in the region is cloudy and rainy.
Sea days are blending together and the weather has been enjoyable. In addition to our usual routine, we had time to enjoy some of the onboard activities. There is lots of talent that lies within the staff including vegetable and fruit carvers! Who knew?
Upon retiring, we turned back the clocks 1 hour once again. Now that we were only 6 hours ahead of New York, it made Stock Option Trading much easier. While in New Zealand and Australia, 12 to 14 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time, option trading was challenging; but, even at 2 or 3 in the morning I was on my laptop making quite a few good trades . . . why not, it helped to defray the cost of the trip!
During the entire trip, we looked forward to dining in the Reserve Section of the Main Dining Room, always pampered by our superlative waitstaff, who were like family. . . without the drama. They ensured that we were satisfied with the presentation and quality of our sumptuous meals, wine, cocktails and deserts. We’re going to miss them.
On Day 58, after 7.5 Sea Days steaming 3,330 nautical miles, we arrived at the Port of Mindelo on the island of Sao Vincente in Cabo Verde. It was in the mid-70ºs and windy when we docked at 8:00 am.
Cabo Verde, is an archipelago and island country of West Africa in the central Atlantic Ocean, consisting of ten volcanic islands with a combined land area of 1,557 sq. miles, slightly smaller than the city of Anchorage, Alaska. Since the early 1990s, Cape Verde has been a stable representative democracy and has remained one of the most developed and democratic countries in Africa. Cabo Verde became independent in 1975.
The Cape Verde Islands form part of Macaronesia along with the Azores, the Canary Islands, Madeira, and the Savage Isles.
The Cape Verde archipelago was uninhabited until the 15th century, when Portuguese explorers discovered and colonized the islands, thus establishing the first European settlement in the tropics. These islands lie between 320 and 460 nautical miles west of Cape Vert the westernmost point of continental Africa.
Lacking natural resources, its developing economy is mostly service-oriented, with a growing focus on tourism and foreign investment. Its population of around 596,000 (as of 2022) is of mostly African and a minor European heritage, and predominantly Roman Catholic, reflecting the legacy of Portuguese rule.
The Half day tours were booked, but we were able to sign on with Green Line Tours. Rui, our guide, along with a driver and a total of 8 passengers including Dewey and Jennifer, who we met early on in the cruise. Made many stops, but even though it was Sunday and many attractions were closed, we were able to visit several points of interest including the church, Municipal Market, Belem Tower, and beach. Overall, the town was very clean and the residents very pleasant.
The Belem Tower replica is a scaled-down version of Lisbon’s famous 16th-century landmark and was built along the harbor nearly 100 years ago—a nod to Cape Verde’s 500 years of Portuguese rule. It houses the Museu do Mar, which features exhibits on the history, seafaring culture and natural bounty of the Cape Verde archipelago.
Since Mindelo claims to be the home of the best Carnival and Festivals it is fitting that a Mural of Robert Nesta Marley is featured on the main Avenue. Considered one of the pioneers of the genre, Bob Marley was a Jamaican reggae singer, guitarist, and songwriter. Of special interest to Delawareans, in 1966 Marley worked on the Chrysler assembly line and he was also as a lab assistant at DuPont.
We left the waterfront town and ascended along a meandering dusty, sandy drive to the summit of Monte Verde (2460′) for view of Mindelo from the Fort.
As evidenced by the dry conditions, Cabo Verde is in the midst of a 5 year draught. During that time the islands have had 1 day of rain! Water must be brought to each village from desalinization plant.
We made our way back to the ship and prepared for a St Patrick’s Day themed dinner. As per usual we were seated in the fun part of the Dining Room and David provided the entertainment.
We would travel 2.5 days until we reached the next port. The seas were moderate to heavy for much of the 860 miles to the Canary Islands. Our sea time was used to relax, research European destinations and attend a few lectures on book authoring.
Of special note was the Caymus Vineyards Winemaker dinner offering a unique gastronomic experience paired with wines personally selected by Chuck Wagner, owner of Caymus Vinyards of Napa, Sonoma and Suisun Valleys.
Robin and I were joined by Libby and Bob along with the delightful company of four others in Sabatini’s Specialty Restaurant separated from the lumpen. We thoughtfully and cogently agreed on almost every subject be it religion, politics or sex.
OPENINGS
Marinated Fresh Oyster Mushrooms and Wood Ear Mushrooms, green pea granita , roasted hearts of romaine lettuce, smoked citrus dressing.Paired with a Mer Soleil Reserve Chardonnay, Santa Lucia Highlands, California
FIRST COURSE
Fresh Summer Black Truffle Risotto, Parmigiano Reggiano aged 36 months
Caymus-Suisun “The Walking Fool” Red Blend, Suisun Valley, California
MAIN COURSE
Tournedos Rossini* prime beef tenderloin, blossom artichokes
Caymus Napa Valley Cabernet Savignon, Napa Valley California
DESSERT
Chocolate Raspberry Dream an intense dark Chocolate mousse, Chocolate raspberry cream, raspberry compote, Chocolate sacher, dark chocolate cornflake crisp
Emmolo Sparkling Wine, California
On Day 61 we arrived at Santa Cruz de Tenerife in the Canary Islands. We docked at 7am and were greeted by sunny weather and temperatures in the mid 70ºs.
The Canaries are an archipelago or Collection of islands in Macaronesia ( four volcanic archipelagos in the North Atlantic off the coasts of Africa and Europe), 60 miles west of Morocco and the Western Sahara. Many believe the name Canary comes from what sailors thought were the sound of barking dogs (Canaria, in Latin), but they were most likely seals!
Tenerife is the largest and most populous island of the Canary Islands. With a land area of 785.48 sq. mi (about the size of Jacksonville Florida) and a population of 950,000 inhabitants it is also the most populous island of Spain and of Macaronesia.
Approximately five million tourists visit Tenerife each year. It is one of the most important tourist destinations in Spain.
We toured the city of Santa Cruz on our own by walking the “blue line”, which designated the path past the marina and over the pedestrian bridge to Plaza de Espana, the Central Plaza. Here viewed the Monument of the Fallen in the Spanish civil war of the late 30’s.
We strolled through the town of Santa Cruz and were impressed by the organized, clean and tourist friendly environment, along with the modern tram line.
Santa Cruz contains the modern Auditorio de Tenerife, the architectural symbol of the Canary Islands. We walked to this landmark, an arts complex designed by Santiago Calatrava and completed in 2003 . . Incredible views.
We then viewed the Wind Sculpture by César Manrique, local artist, sculptor and nature activist. He multidisciplinary painter, sculptor, architect and artist, he studied in Madrid and, after several years exhibiting all around the world, he moved to New York, the mecca of art in the 1960s. That same decade, he returned to Lanzarote to settle definitively on the island of his birth.
The Castillo de San Juan Bautista, “the black castle” used to defend the island completed in 1644. It was an important structure in the defense of the island and to lend importance to the warden of the Castle. It served as a military fort until 1924.
On our return to the ship the Captain announced that there was a propulsion problem and the staff engineers were working on it. They decided to fly in a technician from France to help resolve the issue.
An announcement came before departure that they were able to partially address the problem. We will leave tonight and steam for Lanzarote, where they should be able to maximize propulsion for the longer trip to Morocco.
On the 145 nautical mile trip to Lanzarote the Captain was not able to reach adequate speed, so we arrived a bit late.
Due to the fact that the Trusters were not operating at maximum efficiency, tugboats had to position our ship. They had their problems too as it appeared that they blew an engine in the process. Engineers will try to resolve the issue so we can reach our next port as scheduled.
Lanzarote, one of the Canary islands off the coast of West Africa administered by Spain, is known for its year-round warm weather, beaches and volcanic landscape.
We walked the mile or so to Ciudad Centro of Arrecife. There was a great Marina along the way with super shopping and vendors.
Arrecife is the capital city of Lanzarote. It is a port town of 65,000 served by ferries to the other Canary Islands, Europe, and Africa. We strolled past the Lagoon with picturesque small boats and numerous restaurants and shops.
We went on a discovery walk through the town, did a bit of shopping and thoroughly enjoyed the relaxed ambiance and picturesque nature of Arrecife.
On the way back, we took photos of the church and had drinks and a small meal of Calamari and hummus, local beer and Sangria at Restaurante Calla.
Returning to the ship we discussed how impressed we were with Arrecife on Lanzarote; it just may be Robin’s favorite little spot so far on this trip. When we boarded we got news that the Captain, crew and engineers were able to fully restore the function of the propulsion systems. So after waiting for a few stragglers, we departed at about 6 pm to travel the 220 nautical miles north east to Agadir Morocco.
We arrived in Morocco at 8:00 am enjoying the sun and 75º temperatures. The view from our balcony afforded us a long view of the Kasbah, a 775 ft high fortress over the Atlantic shoreline.
Morocco is located in the northwest corner of Africa and is bordered by the North Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea. Algeria and Western Sahara are the land borders to the south and east. Morocco is about the same size as California.
Agadir is a major City in Morocco, on the shore of the Atlantic, 316 miles south of Casablanca. The municipality of Agadir is about one million.
Agadir is known for being the capital of ancient Berber culture in Morocco descending from Stone age tribes of North Africa.
It is now the largest seaside resort in Morocco, where foreign tourists and many residents are attracted by an unusually mild year-round climate.
We embarked on a small group tour which included a visit to the Kasbah which is a historical landmark that housed the old city of Agadir, located on top of a mountain.
The Kasbah was destroyed for the first time in November 1755 and again in 1960. The Kasbah underwent a major restoration in 2002 and again in 2020. Another earthquake struck in 2023. Are you getting the picture?
There was an opportunity for some to mount a camel for a ride. As you know, I’ll swim with sharks and whales, but I won’t ride skeevy animals.
We made our way to the Souk Al Had, third biggest market in Africa. It was HUGE!. We ambled through stalls of fresh produce, fragrant spice, handicrafts, ceramics, household items and curios of all types.
The size of the Souk was overwhelming and took concentration to avoid getting lost in the myriad of shops. We poked around a few shops and the keepers were helpful, entertaining, and rarely pushy.
I purchased a small travel bag; it was a Prada fake and I’m sure I paid too much. . . my contribution to the local economy!
While meandering through the Souk, we came across some unusual retail displays. I guess they don’t fear “Chucky” in Morocco. . . . A bit creepy!
We then ran off to a Women’s Cooperative where local women were producing products made of argan oil. We enjoyed tea and pastries while they serenaded us with a cacophony of music produced by local instruments.
After a seemingly endless session of auditory rape, we returned to the ship and wished we had stayed longer in Lanzerote.
Thank you, Bob, for this interesting report on your travels. You wrote that the Canary Islands derive their name from canaria, Latin for dog, which inspired me to do research. The canary, in turn derives its name from the islands’ name. Trade in the popular yellow songbird was controlled and limited by monks and the wealthy. The coal mining industry employed canaries, but not for their singing.
Thanks for your comment Rick. Hope you are well and happy that my posts are encouraging your research.
Stay out of trouble.