Alaska, The Great Land

The Native Aleuts named it Alyeska, the “Great Land”. There are a million and one reasons that Alaska has earned its “great” reputation. First, it’s home to Denali, North America’s tallest mountain that stands more than 20,000 feet above sea level. Amazingly, Alaska has more than 40% of the nation’s surface water resources including over 12,000 rivers, 3 million lakes greater than 5 acres and numerous creeks and ponds. It’s a place of epic drama, with soaring mountains, giant glaciers and dazzling wildlife.

The CruiseTour is an ideal way to explore Alaska’s most magnificent attractions, including Glacier Bay National Park and Denali National Park. You can only cruise to Alaska during the spring and summer months; the season starts in May and ends in September. Princess Cruises has perfected this experience to show you this destination in its greatest and purest form. For in-depth exploration of Alaska’s interior, we combined stays at Denali-area lodges with scenic and relaxing train travel. We then embarked on the Majestic Princess for a  Cruise through Alaska’s Inside Passage,  a protected water route between the Gulf of Alaska and Puget Sound.

We combined a 7-day Voyage of the Glaciers cruise, a scenic rail trip and multiple days on land in Princess owned lodges as our home away from home. Warm and welcoming, these lodges are custom built and strategically located near the top attractions of the 49th state, allowing you to soak in the atmosphere of each unique region and experience authentic Alaska excursions.

The Trip from Tampa to Anchorage via Seattle with Alaska Airlines was a total of 3,950 air miles and 9.5 hours of flight time. We expected better service with the upgraded fare, but you know me. . . I don’t complain. After a plane change in Seattle, a funky meal and one Xanax each, we arrived in Anchorage at 12:45 am. Because of the hour, we had to take a cab to the downtown Captain Cook Hotel.  After a few hours of sleep and then breakfast at the hotel, we boarded a comfortable motorcoach at 9:30 am and travelled ENE on Route 1, then on Route 3 through Wasilla  to the Princess Wilderness Lodge about 3 hours later. 

Bordering the South side of Denali National Park, the Mt. McKinley Princess Wilderness Lodge is just off of the Parks Highway, two hours south of the main entrance. From the moment you arrive at this Lodge in Denali State Park, you know you’re somewhere special.

Situated on 180 acres of land inside Denali State Park and bordered by the Chulitna River, the Lodge features dramatic vistas of Denali—North America’s highest peak. The dramatic peaks are on display from the Great Room and outdoor adventures are at your fingertips, from river rafting to flight-seeing over Denali and the Alaska Range.

We enjoyed our time at the lodge along with the temperature of 55 degrees. We lucked out in that the clouds engulfing Denali cleared just enough to enable a view of the storied Peak 20,320 feet above sea level. That’s about 20,306 feet above what I’m used to!

After enjoying the magical viewing on the deck and lounge, we embarked on a Byers Lake Walking Tour. We explored a portion of this 4.8-mile loop trail near Talkeetna for 2.5 hours with Mo, our guide.

Mo regaled us with the history of the area and had in-depth knowledge of the flora including many poisonous plants. This trail is considered a moderately challenging route with great lake views and historic cabin. It’s great for backpacking, camping, and hiking and we encountered only a few hikers on the tour.

After a comfortable night at the Lodge, we had luggage ready for pick up at 7 AM. We passed a few hours in the town of Talkeetna, A turn-of-the-20th-century gold-mining center, Talkeetna still has much of its early Alaska flavor with log cabins, and clapboard storefronts on the main street. We walked to the local coffee shop for special crêpe and coffee and then ambled to the convergence of the three rivers at the end of Main Street. We walked around the town, spoke with a few people and met the elected Mayor, who is a cat named “Denali”.  Who knew?

We then took the shuttle back to Princess Wilderness Lodge. Enjoyed a coffee while we took in more mountain views and then boarded the motorcoach for our next Lodge destination.

The Denali Princess Wilderness Lodge, is the closest and most comfortable place to stay when visiting the park, just one mile from the park entrance. Its boundaries encompass an impressive six million acres — the size of the state of Massachusetts. We had already booked a Helicopter Tour to take in the sights and land on a glacier.

The Helicopter tour was thrilling. Robin and I were fortunate to have the front seats on the helicopter, the views were fabulous. We were outfitted with studded glacier over-boots in preparation for the glacier landing.

Hope, our pilot had the highest flight credentials, but she was only in her late 20s. During the 40 minute flight over wide valleys, wild rivers and craggy ranges, she pointed out wildlife and other features. We saw groups of Dall sheep and I even spotted my first Moose! He was standing knee deep in a pond, but from 150 feet overhead, looked like a toy.

We landed gingerly on the glacier, but quickly donned our ponchos as it was raining with a temp about 40 degrees and 20 knots of wind. Hope had me bend down to taste the clear and cold glacial water which tasted clean, but mineral laden. Great way to end the day and prepare for the mandated martini.

After the aforementioned martini and dinner at the Lodge, we succumbed to the required Covid test in preparation for boarding the ship in two days.

We woke to a cold and rainy day and headed out to  Nature Tour at the Denali Primrose Ridge. We learned of the Parks History from our driver Mike, who has a Phd in History and teaches at the University. Denali Park National Park was founded by Charles Sheldon in 1917. He was a hunter and naturalist attracted to Denali specifically by Dall sheep. In the past, I had several friends who are rumored to possess a similar attraction.

After a visit to The History Center for and introductory movie and a discussion with a Park Ranger, we then trekked to a historic cabin for a discussion of what early visitor’s experiences were like in the park. Denali is a true wilderness, but now visitors mostly come to see wildlife and not kill it.

You will remember that the US purchased AK from Russia in 1867 for 7 Million dollars, a deal know as Seward’s Folly. When gold was found in 1898, the rapid influx of people and discovery of more natural resources has contributed much to America’s prosperity. William Seward, Lincoln’s Secretary of State, made a great deal, but didn’t profit nearly as well as today’s government oligarchs. Think Paulie Pelosi.

To me, there is simply no better way to experience so much of Alaska’s vast beauty than to see it by rail. The Wilderness rail service  transported us in a luxury Glass-domed rail cars on a legendary route straight from the Princess Lodges in Denali to the Cruise ship embarkation in Whittier. The trip is designed to showcase every breathtaking mile of forested landscape, flowering meadows and glacial lakes. The rail guides deliver insightful narration about this historic route’s long history and the natural wonders just outside the window .

We Traveled by rail about 300 miles of the total of 500 miles of track on the Alaska Railroad. The trip was smooth and comfortable and the 9.5 hours was much more pleasant than the air travel we endured a few days ago. We did opt for the dining car below for a beautiful lunch as we watched the mountains and wild rivers go by.

While nearing our destination of Whittier, where we will embark on the Cruise ship, a Princess Representative accomplished all of the necessary check-in procedures right at our seat, including the Princess Medallion, passport, vaccine card and Covid test result.

We then travelled through two tunnels below the mountains. At the end of the second one, we reached the Majestic Princess in Whittier which is located approximately 70 miles southeast of Anchorage, and  was an active U.S. Army port until 1960. Today, it houses most of Whittier’s residents (approximately 290). Unlike Anchorage’s Cook Inlet which is choked by ice 5 months out of the year, Whittier is a year round ice-free port. 

This was a Princess MedallionClass cruise which features next-level technology and allowed us to enjoy reliable Wi-Fi and touchless experiences. This starts with Medallion wearable, a quarter-sized device that never needs to be turned on or off. Your stateroom door unlocks as you approach, your food and drinks find you, and friends and family can easily locate you. It made check-in a breeze and we chose exactly when and where we ate. We never worried about misplacing our cruise card and we were able to order a margarita, martini or latte by the pool chaise lounge, library or wherever we were. We experienced this on other cruises and it makes the cruising experience delightful.

The 1083 foot, 3,560 passenger Majestic Princess has a fun, relaxed vibe, was built in 2017 and is wonderfully maintained. Due to the lingering effects of Covid there were only about 2,000 passengers aboard which enhanced the experience. The staff went above and beyond to ensure our comfort and pleasure.

All cabins have a supremely comfortable Princess Luxury Bed, dreamy pillows, soft sheets and block-out curtains, which virtually guarantee a good night’s sleep. We chose a mini-suite along with Club Class dining, where you can dine on your own schedule and enjoy expedited seating with no wait. Table for 6? . . . for us, that would be a NO Thank you!

After unpacking and feeling overjoyed at not to have to deal with a suitcase for a week, we celebrated in the Lounge with a cocktail and set sail just after Dinner. It felt great to be transiting on the water again. We will take the protected Inside Passage, all the way to Vancouver and make several stops along the way. We enjoyed flat seas for the entire passage of 1550 nautical miles (1783 statute miles).

Hubbard Glacier

Located in south-central Alaska, north of Yakutat, with its origins in Yukon Territory, Canada, Hubbard Glacier is the largest tidewater glacier in North America. We arrived at Yakutat Bay in mid-afternoon and marveled at the Scenic Cruising with expert commentary by Naturalist Mark Harris.

While many other glaciers around the world are retreating, Hubbard Glacier continues to thicken and grow making it one of the best glaciers to see in Alaska. Hubbard calves nearly every day, making for dramatic views as ice crashes into the Bay.

A spectacular day was followed by a “formal” evening in our usual spot in the Dining Room where we enjoyed attentive, personal service and great selections from a special menu. Adrian and Christian were true professionals.

Glacier Bay

The following day, after a wonderful dinner and engaging ship entertainment, we attended a Glacier Bay Ranger Presentation where we learned of the massive tidewater glaciers of Glacier Bay National Park while we sailed through the fjords of the Inside Passage.

The 3.3 million acre Glacier Bay National Park, a UNESCO-listed treasure was astounding. We saw several tidewater glaciers tower hundreds of feet over the waterline and watch for “calving”. The native Tlingit call the sound “white thunder” when chunks of ice tear from a tidewater glacier and crash into the waters below. We were able to witness the amazing sight and sounds of this incredible phenomenon.

The magnificent Margerie Glacier is sure to impress with its dramatic blue spires. Beyond the ice, we saw towering snow-capped mountains, deep fjords and freshwater streams.

Icy Point Straight

Several landslides in June have closed the cruise ship dock in Skagway for the rest of the summer so Icy Point Straight was chose as an alternative a few weeks ago. We ended up booking an excursion with a private company for a Whale Adventure.

To get to Icy strait Whale Adventures we took a Green Transporter or gondola to the Adventure Hub boarded the excursion boat. Fortunately, it was only half-full and with only 25 passengers we got to view all of the action in comfort.

Humpback Whales are huge baleen whales that do most of their feeding in Alaska or Antartica. The females are typically over 45 feet long and weigh 35 tons. They travel great distances every year and have one of the longest migrations of any mammal on the planet. Some populations swim 5,000 miles from tropical breeding grounds to colder, more productive feeding grounds. 

Humpback whales are migratory and only eat during half of the year. During the feeding season, humpback whales actively feed for up to twenty-two hours a day. We saw groups of 15 or so whales engaging in a cooperative feeding method called “bubble-netting” where they corral their prey fish into a net of bubbles and then swim upwards to feed. It was an incredible cooperative effort!

Group of 40 foot Humpbacks feeding by Bubble-netting

In addition to the humpback whales, we saw several orcas, eagles, otters and plenty of sea lions.

Seal’s Buoy

Juneau                                                                                                                       

Juneau Alaska stands on one of the largest wilderness areas in the United States. After a relaxing breakfast, we had an 8:45 am meetup with the Princess Excursion Trolley to the Tongass Natural Forest and a trip to Mendenhall Glacier.

Tongass National Forest encompassing nearly 17 million acres of beautiful terrain  is the nation’s largest national forest and covers most of Southeast Alaska. It surrounds the Inside Passage and offers unique chances to view eagles, bears, spawning salmon, and the breath-taking vistas of “wild” Alaska.

We visited the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center  and along the 2 mile Nugget Falls Trail, we enjoyed views of this thirteen-mile-long river of ice and Nugget falls.

The Trolley dropped us off in downtown Juneau, we then took the Goldbelt Tram to the top of the ridge about 1800 feet high and spent some time on the observation deck.

At the summit we watched a Tlingit film to learn of the local culture. The Tlingit maintained a complex hunter-gatherer culture based management of fisheries. Tlingit means “people of the tides”. . . no wonder, tides in Alaska can range up to 40 feet.

Ketchikan

Ketchikan is dubbed the “Rain Capital of Alaska,” and the forecast can be chilly and wet, but we were pleasantly surprised to encounter relatively warm weather at 65 degrees and more sun than we’ve seen since we left Sarasota. Ketchikan is one of the rainiest cities in America and receives about 150 inches of rain a year, 260% more rain than the national average.

We walked into town and booked a 2 hour trolley tour on our own. Describing itself as the “Salmon Capital of the World”, we stopped by a nearby creek and saw Salmon swimming upstream along a ladder, but not before we rode past Dolly’s House of ill repute. We then meandered on the rustic road to a waterfall by the side of the road.

We attempted to view bears in a stream feeding. . . no luck, but we did see several Eagles showing off their aerial skills over the water.

Back on the ship, we enjoyed lunch and then Robin visited to the spa for a mani and a massage, while I relaxed in the cafe for some serious people watching and Alaska research.

SEA DAY

Seas days are great. . . time to relax and enjoy the amenities of the ship.

The day started out foggy and 55 , then partly sunny on our way to Vancouver. After a late wakeup and coffee we had a leisurely lunch at Club Class. We avoid any buffet if possible, the food looks great, but I skeev it. We then enjoyed lounging peacefully at a private cabana in The Hollywood Conservatory, an enclosed quiet retreat 150 feet above the water. After dinner, we retreated to the room to finish packing and have bags ready to go by 9 pm.

Vancouver

Vancouver Port is the largest in Canada and the fourth largest in North America. To enter the harbour we had to clear the Lion’s Gate bridge which has clearance height of only 200 feet. The Majestic princess is a bit higher and we had to pass below the bridge at low tide, 3 am.

We disembarked after breakfast at 9:15am in what can only be described as efficient, cordial and timely. We found our bags with no problem and within minutes we were checked into the Fairmont Hotel by 9:45! Easiest ever.

Vancouver is Canada’s third-largest city, a cosmopolitan place with a European feel and a personality all its own. It’s also the city where Robin and I were engaged in 1991, so it has special meaning for us. It’s a community with a rich ethnic mix – including the second-largest Chinatown in North America – and stunningly beautiful parks.

We took a stroll to Gastown, as we did 32 years ago, and noticed some things have changed. It is a mix of hip restaurants and trendy boutiques and tattoo parlors and poverty.

We thoroughly enjoyed lunch at the Local Public eatery in the heart of Gastown and marvelled at the number of attractive ladies with total arm and/or leg ink, not to mention the facial jewelry. Our waitress had so much facial jewelry she looked like a wind chime with legs!

We enjoyed much that the city has to offer, including Stanley Park. This magnificent green oasis in the midst of the urban landscape of Vancouver was only a 30 minute walk from our hotel. We admired the unique architectural features of the buildings and the prolific gardens along the way.

The 1,000 acre Stanley Park features natural West Coast rainforest,  scenic views of water, mountains, and majestic trees along the Seawall.

A trip to Stanley Park wouldn’t be complete with out a trip to the magnificent Aquarium. The Beluga Whales and Orcas are no longer in residence, but it’s absolutely worth a visit.

After a light dinner and packing for the last time, we turned in early to prepare for the 3:30am wakeup. Rang for the bellhop at 4:30; airport by 5:00am; porter then took bags to the gate, then to US customs, conveniently located here in Canada; through global entry security, then used the US global entry kiosk and off to the agent to present receipts, passport & boarding pass. Now, on the US terminal. The entire process was completed in 30 minutes. Whew! We were at the gate at 5:30am for the 7:30 am flight. Looks like we allowed enough time. . .

We hope you enjoyed your time with us and look forward to having you join us for another adventure.