Category: South Africa

Regarded as one of the world’s most beautiful cities, Cape Town offers museums, lush parks and international shopping. It’s famous for its towering mountains, magnificent beaches, award winning wineries and impressive sea life including Great White Sharks, Whales, Cape Fur Seals and African Penguins.

We arrived in Capetown a week early to enjoy the city, do some touring and enjoy a pre-cruise Safari trip arranged by Regent Cruise lines as part of their Capetown to Rio South Atlantic Cruise. The 14 day “Sands to Sea to Samba” cruise would have to wait, as we’ve got lots of plans before embarkation.

The Delta flights from Tampa To Atlanta on to Capetown went without a hitch. Although the 14.5 hour flight from Atlanta was totally full,  we managed to eat, watch a movie and with the help of pharmaceutical wonders, get 8 hours of sleep. At arrival in Capetown, we were greeted by a driver who managed the traffic well to arrive at our hotel on the waterfront.

At the suggestion of our agent Donna McPhail of Adler Travel, we spent a few days at the Table Bay Hotel at the Victora and Albert waterfront in Cape Town. This iconic Hotel offering the ultimate in 5-star luxury accommodation is perfectly positioned, within close proximity of top tourist attractions, luxury international shopping and convenient access to the Waterfront and the bustling harbor.

After a quiet dinner at the hotel and a pleasant evening we woke to a sumptuous breakfast in the formal dining room with the live melody of classical piano. . .It’s good to be the King.

Table Mountain is synonymous with Cape Town and is one of the most iconic mountains on earth. Our guide Nabeel, a saavy local gentlemen, arrived early for our half-day tour and we made our way to the base of Table Mountain for entry to the cable car.

The crowd was huge. After waiting for ten minutes in the heat, Nabeel used his many contacts to negotiate the crowd of thousands to procure us a fast-pass entry avoiding the 1.5 hours wait. Slowly rotating cable cars with their 360º views carried us to the mountain’s flat top, from which there are sweeping views of the city of 5 million and a busy harbor. It’s one of the New Seven Wonders of the World so we took our time exploring the many trails atop the mountain taking in the glorious views.

From Table Mountain we descended to the City and the Bo-Kaap neighborhood. The area was populated by slaves known as Cape Malays, and were brought from Malaysia, Indonesia and the rest of Africa to work in the Cape. Many of the families in the Bo-Kaap have been living there for generations and is a significant part of the cultural heritage.

To this day, the houses are a mix of Cape Dutch and Georgian architecture, in distinctive multi-coloured rows on steeply cobbled roads. While on lease, all the houses had to be white, when this rule was eventually lifted, the slaves were allowed to buy the properties, all the houses were painted bright colors by their owners as an expression of their freedom.

After another magnificent breakfast at the Hotel, spoiled by attentive, courteous service, we prepared for another half-day tour with Nabeel, along the dramatic scenery of the South Peninsula.

The trip from Cape Town to Cape Point is considered one of the best drives in the World. We took the 85-mile circular route, sticking to the incredibly scenic, coastal roads.  Along the way, we drove through the spectacular coastal villages of Llandudno, Hout Bay, Chapmans Peak Drive, Noordhoek, Scarborough, each one a gem, before you reach Cape Point.   

Of special note is Hout Bay, once a small fishing village, now a coastal suburb of Cape Town and home to people from all walks of life. The streets are alive with locals and tourists who flock to a host of curio shops, restaurants, snack bars and a beach is popular with hikers and windsurfers. This charming inlet sits in the shadow of the impressive 1,000 foot high Sentinel Mountain Peak standing watch over the bay. Rumors have it that Oprah Winfrey, Bill Gates and Donald Trump were once interested in buying this mountain peak.

As you may know, a cape is a high point of land that narrowly extends into a body of water. Cape Point, just east of the Cape of Good Hope, juts into the Atlantic Ocean.

A common misconception is that the Cape Point is the southern tip of Africa. In fact, the southernmost point of Africa is Cape Agulhas about 90 miles to the east-southeast. Cape Agulhas also defines the official geographic divide between the Atlantic and Indian Oceans. . . yet another factoid to wow your friends at the next cocktail party . . . you’re welcome!

 

The waters around the Cape of Good Hope are known for being rough. Portuguese explorer Bartholomew Diaz sailed down along the west coast of the African continent and reached the southern tip of the continent. He named it the Cape of Good Hope as it gave the hope of discovering a sea route to the East.

On the return to Cape Town, we visited Boulders Beach to visit the penguins. Again, Nabeel worked his magic and negotiated the crowds through a little know trail along the beach. The African penguin also known as Cape penguin or South African penguin, is a species confined to southern African waters. The species has distinctive pink patches of skin above the eyes and a black facial mask.

 

This penguin feeds primarily on fish and squid. The African penguin is a charismatic species and is popular with tourists. Other names of the species include black-footed penguin and jackass penguin, due to their loud, donkey-like noise.

We boarded a comfortable 15 passenger van that would ferry the group of 12 to the Little Karoo. We meandered through the Cape Mountain Ranges, the awe-inspiring Cogman’s Kloop and numerous vineyards before we arrived at the Main Gate at Sanbona.

There, we would transfer to a Sanbona 12 passenger van on a solid dirt road that led us through the arid countryside for an hour, while viewing Cape Zebas, Cape Buffalo and various antelopes. We were met at the Lodge by the staff and offfered a cooling welcome drink to ward off the 90 degree heat.

Sanbona Wildlife Reserve is the closest true wildlife experience you can find near Cape Town, a short 3.5 hour drive away, offering an exclusive and unique malaria-free safari. Sanbona is one of South Africa’s largest privately-owned nature reserves of rich protected ecosystems stretching across 58,000 hectares or 224 square miles about the size of the entire city of Chicago, but even with its dangerous animals, considerably safer. 

We were fortunate to stay in the opulent and romantic Dwyka Tented Lodge, embraced by a striking rock formation and set in the horseshoe bend of a dry Karoo ravine. The spacious lounge and dining areas have modern interiors, wooden decks and make the most of the setting.  The accommodation was luxurious and private. Each of the nine luxury tents has an en-suite bathroom and a private deck with a heated plunge pool which added to the adventure.

Interactive nature drives last up to 3 hours and take place in the tranquil moods of sunrise and sunset. Our first game drive was at 4:30 pm, only two hours after we arrived.

On our very first Game drive, we spotted rhinos, elephants, giraffes and antelopes.

After a few hours of bone-rattling travel along and over dry river beds and slopes tracking and photographing wildlife, it was time for a Sundowner. Josh stopped by a quiet pond and offered our favorite cocktails and hor d’oeuvres.

In contrast, the morning drives came a bit early at 5:30 am. It was considerably cooler at 60º and cloudy, as a front was moving in. Each day brought forth more surprises and more animals in their native habitat, but it kept getting cooler . . . by the 3rd day and 4^th game drive, Robin and I were draped in blankets

As you may know, the term “Big Five” originally referred to the difficulty in hunting the lion, leopard, rhino, elephant and African buffalo. These five large African mammal species were known to be dangerous and it was considered a feat by trophy hunters to bring them home. I wasn’t able or willing to bring home any trophies but, I was able to get a few photos.

White Lions

The white lion is a rare color mutation of the Southern African lion. White lions are thought to have been indigenous to this region of South Africa for centuries, although the earliest recorded sighting in this region was in 1938. There are now only 13 left in the wild. We marveled the close encounters with these beautiful blue-eyed animals. We saw two, they are a brother and sister pair and have not had success in breeding. . . maybe they should relocate them to West Virginia. 

Leopards

Leopards are actually the smallest of the cats, but they are stronger and bulkier than the cheetah. While we did not see leopards, we know that cheetahs are taller and more slender in comparison. A cheetah is built for speed and is the fastest land mammal, reaching speeds of up to 70 mph.

However, cheetahs are racing toward extinction, with only around 7,000 of these elegant cats remaining on earth. They’ve disappeared from approximately 90% of their natural homes across Africa, with Southern Africa now being their only fortress. Sanbona embraced the challenge to conserve cheetahs and provide them with sanctuary space. They made conservation history once again with cheetahs now residing in Little Karoo . . . we spotted four cubs.

White Rhinos

White rhinos are the second-largest land mammal and their name comes from the Afrikaans, a West Germanic language. In Afrikaans the word “weit” means wide and refers to the animal’s mouth. Also known as the square-lipped rhinoceros, it has a face only a mother could love. Their horns are valuable and used in traditional Chinese medicine or as a symbol of wealth.

White rhinos have complex social structures. Groups of sometimes 14 rhinos may form, notably females with calves. Adult males defend territories of roughly one square mile, which they mark with vigorously scraped dung piles.

Elephants

The African bush elephant is the largest living terrestrial animal, with bulls reaching a shoulder height of up to 13 feet and a body mass of up to 14,000 pounds. They are distributed across 37 African countries and inhabit forests, grasslands and woodlands, wetlands and agricultural land. It is a social mammal, travelling in herds composed of cows and their offspring. Adult bulls usually live alone or in small bachelor groups. They are herbivores, feeding on grasses, creepers, herbs, leaves, and bark. Females are pregnant for 22 months, the longest gestation period of any mammal. 

We were lucky enough to encounter a large herd these behemoths; they approached closely, but we never felt threatened. They are one of the most fascinating animals to see while on an African safari. Watching a single bull or a herd with calves can keep you interested all day, as you observe their intelligent, sociable, and communicative behavior. You can revel in the beauty and unparalleled experience of witnessing these gentle giants in their natural habitat.

Cape Buffalo

The Cape Buffalo is the largest sub-Saharan African bovine, found in Southern and East Africa.  The adult African buffalo’s horns have fused bases, forming a continuous bone shield across the top of the head referred to as a “boss”. It is widely regarded as one of the most dangerous animals on the African continent, and according to some estimates it gores, tramples, and kills over 200 people every year. Its unpredictable temperament may have been part of the reason that the African buffalo has never been domesticated but is a sought-after trophy in hunting.

Not one of the Big Five, but a joy to watch, the graceful giraffe is the tallest living terrestrial animal and the largest hoofed herbivore on Earth. The giraffe’s chief distinguishing characteristics are its extremely long neck and legs, its horn-like ossicones, and its spotted coat patterns. Female ossicones are smaller and have a small tuft of fur on top, while male ossicones are bald on the top. Their food source is leaves, fruits, and flowers of woody plants, primarily acacia species, which they browse at heights most other herbivores cannot reach. 

During the game drives, what was most impressive was the variety of the animals that could be spotted and how the animals interacted in the wild. We spotted a cheetah slinking around waiting to pounce on a herd of springbok antelopes or here, you can see seven Giraffes keeping their wary eyes on the cheetah in the foreground.

Of special note is the Gemsbok or South African oryx. It is a large antelope native to the extremely dry, arid regions of Southern Africa. Even though they possess spectacular horns that average almost 3 feet, Gemsbok are herbivores. These are mainly desert-dwelling antelopes and they do not depend on drinking water to supply their physiological needs.

Obviously, we were all overjoyed to witness the Big Five in the wild in such a short time, a real testament to the great work that they are doing at Sanbona. Since 2002, the transformation of the lands has included the slow process of recreating an ecosystem as close as possible to the way it’s thought to have been 300 years ago, giving visitors a vision of the Klein Karoo that its early inhabitants would recognize. 

Robin and I treasured our unforgettable stay at Sanbona including the drives, the gracious hosts and rangers, the pleasant meals and the camaraderie of our new found friends. It is a trip we hope that all of you will consider in the future, but after our last morning game drive, it was time for breakfast and to pack once again and board the van for the ride to the Sanbona main gate. Here, we transferred to the comfortable van back to Cape Town along a route with incredible mountain scenery.

When we boarded the van we were informed that due to high winds, the Harbourmaster did not allow the Regent Cruise Ship to dock, so we would be transferred back to the Westin Hotel to spend another night. We were accommodated with room assignments and luggage handling swiftly and it wasn’t long before we we relaxing with a cocktail in the lobby bar with our Sanbona Safari mates.

Regent lays claim to be the most inclusive experience among the major luxury cruise lines. Of course, such pampering doesn’t come cheap but, everything is included: flights, shore excursions, beverages and onboard gratuities, so there are no unexpected hidden extras that give you agita at the end of the trip. Regent covered our transport to and from Sanbona, our pre and post Sanbona stays at the Westin and all meals. In addition, we were compensated for the cruising day that we missed due to the high winds at the Cape Town Harbour.

We were informed the next day that the ship was ready for boarding at 9:30 am, so we made our way to the waiting motor coaches accompanied by the ever-present luggage. I was looking forward to unpacking for the LAST time for the next two weeks.

We boarded the ship with no difficulties and it was quite a contrast to the last ship we were on with over 6,000 passengers! The interior design of the Seven Seas Voyager was both tasteful and subdued. The service is extremely polite and friendly, but not obtrusive. They offer a delightful ship with exquisite service, generous staterooms with abundant amenities, a variety of dining options, and superior lecture and enrichment programs. 

Everyone stays in a suite on these ships, and most cabins have balconies, walk-in closets, large bathrooms, and even bathtubs. As the price goes up, the space and amenities grow even more. 

With the ship’s small passenger numbers and spacious public areas, we never felt crowded. We never had to stand in line or wait for a coffee or adult beverage. Though high fares mean passengers must be well-heeled to sail on Voyager, we found most of our cruise-mates to be down-to-earth and friendly — not those who flaunt their wealth. Most notably, conversation revealed that these folks have visited every corner of the planet.

The captain was concerned with lingering 35 to 40 knot winds and did not leave the Cape Town dock until 3 am. Finally at sea with winds moderating to 16 knots and 3 to 6 foot seas, we were in heaven. After a wonderful day at sea starting with breakfast served in our room, a bit of exercise, casual lunch, organizing photos, cocktail reception and a fabulous dinner, we took in our first sunset. And so our schedule continued similarly, experiencing all the ship had to offer: dining, entertainment, enrichment lectures, camaraderie and a few shore excursions along the way.

The ship will only have two stops before we dock at Rio de Janerio. The first was Walvis Bay, a port town with a large bay and sand dunes that is an important centre of tourism in Namibia. Attractions include the artificial Bird Island, centre of a guano collection industry, the Dune 7 sand dune, the salt works, the abundant birdlife, and a museum.

We chose an excursion using a closed, 7 passenger off-road Vehicle to view the treasures of the Namib desert. It was a chilly 65 degrees at the start, but would warm up to 75 with the sun. Armand, our driver originally from South Africa and now Namibia, would narrate as we travelled over the dirt roads to the impressive sand dunes , the moon landscape, unusual flora, and then on to enjoy lunch at the Namib Park oasis.

We returned to the ship via the town of Swakopmund, a beach resort with a population of 45,000 and an example of German colonial architecture. It was founded in 1892 as the main harbour for German South West Africa. From what we saw, we don’t think we’ll be booking an AirB&B.

We would enjoy another two sea days before we reached our next port, St Helena. Sea days are marvelous for whatever strikes your fancy: the spa, exercise, reading, lectures, games, lounging, a myriad of other activities or nothing. . . your choice.

Saint Helena is a British overseas territory located in the South Atlantic Ocean. It is a remote volcanic tropical island 1,210 miles west of the coast of south-western Africa, and 2,500 miles east of Rio de Janeiro in South America. It is 1668 miles south of the equator. St Helena has a very mild, oceanic climate. Average temperatures in summer range from lows of 59F to highs of 70F; though at times can reach 93F in the capital, Jamestown. St Helena has only three cruise ships visit per year, as a matter of fact, our ship, The Seven Seas Voyager, make headlines in the local paper!

Saint Helena measures about 10 by 5 mi and has a population of about 4,500 mainly descended from Europeans. It was named after Helena, mother of Constantine I. It is one of the most remote islands in the world and was uninhabited when discovered by the Portuguese enroute to the Indian subcontinent in 1502. St Helena is the United Kingdom’s second-oldest overseas territory after Bermuda. For about four centuries the island was an important stopover for ships from Europe to Asia and back while sailing around the African continent until the opening of the Suez canal in 1869 .

About twice of Bermuda, it is a subtropical paradise where the mountainous terrain and micro-climates create an astounding diversity of landscapes all within a few minutes drive.

St. Helena is famous as the place of Napoleon Bonaparte’s second exile and death, as commemorated by a now-empty tomb.  We visited Longwood House, is a 16 room mansion which was the final residence of Napoleon during his 5 year exile on the island. He was quite proud of the gardens he designed there.

The steep 3/4 mile trek to Napolean’s tomb was well worth the effort. Beautiful and serene with towering trees providing shelter for a chorus of singing birds. Truly magical . . . apparently too restful for the Emperor, they exhumed his body and returned it to France in 1840.

For my diving buddies . . . clear, warm waters, wrecks and fascinating marine life make St Helena Island an exciting scuba diving destination. Dive site habitats all teem with marine life and the wrecks dotted around the coast are popular. Sea temperatures vary from 66 to 75°F and visibility can range from 16 to 130 feet with peak visibility being from December to May. Dives vary between 40 and 130 feet and offer a range of diving opportunities, including Whale Sharks that visit in February and March. Should have brought my gear! Actually, we did spot a lone Whale Shark just North of Jamestown from the steep road way on our way back to the tender and the Ship.

With another 6 days at sea before we disembark in Rio, Regent is already making plans for us to ease our transition back to terrestrial life. It is comforting to know that we’re being looked after by a cruising nanny. Until then, there’s lots to do and our first order of business was an “Air Drop Lunch” in the Main Dining Room with the Sanbona “Dirty Dozen”. We air-dropped photos and videos, traded stories and made plans for future travel.

Sanbona Safari Travel Mates

We sailed a total distance of 4095 nautical miles (4712 statue miles) before we reached Rio de Janeiro, Brazil . Known simply as Rio, with 7 million people it is the second most populous city in Brazil, after São Paulo. Rio is Brazil’s primary tourist attraction and resort. It receives the most visitors per year of any city in South America with 2.82 million international tourists a year. Rio has a tropical savanna climate it has hot, humid summers, and warm, sunny winters.

Rio is known for its natural settings, carnival, samba, bossa nova, and resort beaches such as  Copacabana, Ipanema, and Leblon. In addition to the beaches, some of the most famous landmarks include the giant statue of Christ the Redeemer atop Corcovado mountain, named one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. I have included a photo hacked from a Chinese balloon . . . before it was shot down.

We toured Rio via motor coach on excellent, yet crowded roads and although the city had interesting churches and buildings, it was loaded with grafitti, not unlike other crowded cities. We then queued up with the throngs of toursists for the train ride to top of Cordova mountain for the 20 minute ride to the area below the base of the Redeemer statue. To avoid more crowds, we walked up another 80 feet using several flights of stairs vs elevator and escalator… well, that cancelled my need for a gym session! 

Christ the Redeemer  is the Art Deco statue of Jesus Christ in Rio de Janeiro created by French sculptor Paul Landowski and built by Brazilian engineer Heitor da Silva Costa. Constructed between 1922 and 1931, the statue is 98 ft. high, excluding 26 ft. pedestal; the arms stretch 92 feet wide. Although constructed of reinforced concrete and soapstone, it was impressive, as are the surrounding views.

Daniel, our guide then directed us through the crowds for the return train, then on to the motor coach for a quick ride past the world famous beaches of Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon. We zoomed past about 2 miles of the wide but crowded beaches with bars, cafes, restaurant shacks and beach rentals. Nowhere did I see that girl from Ipanema that Sinatra and Antonio Jobim sing about.

Rio is also a main cultural hub in Brazil. Its architecture embraces churches and buildings dating from the 16th to the 19th centuries, blending with the world-renowned designs of the 20th century.

Rio de Janeiro is home to the largest Portuguese population outside of Lisbon in Portugal.  After independence from Portugal in 1822, Rio became a destination for hundreds of thousands of immigrants from Portugal, mainly in the early 20th century. There are significant disparities between the rich and the poor here, and different socioeconomic groups are largely segregated into different neighborhoods.

We returned to the ship for one last evening before departing. As usual, we enjoyed the company of our fellow travelers, a cocktail at the lounge and one final evening of dining before packing up once again. Although we were reluctant to leave, after our short time in Rio, I was looking forward to the 11. 5 hour plane trip back to Tampa.

Disembarkation at 5:15 am to catch the early flight went very smoothly, with Regent providing the motor coach transportation and luggage transfers. After an orderly boarding process, we took our comfortable seats with plenty of legroom and a special passenger across from us that never said a word.