Gibraltar, Greece, Italy, Sicily, Spain, Turkey, World Cruise 2024

Europe and the Mediterranean II

Ahoy Mates!!

Join us again as we continue our 97 day World Cruise. Come aboard as we log our 4,500 nautical mile circular route around the Mediterranean, before we finally return to Ft. Lauderdale.  There will be a total of 15 European port visits and  today we’ll be sailing from Civitavecchia (Rome) to Naples on our 8th European port visit within 12 days.

Rome, Naples, Sicily, Athens, Myknonos, Kusadasi, Heraklion, Gibraltar to Malaga
Flag of Italy

4/3/24, Day 75, 58°, partly cloudy 

After traveling 165 nautical miles through the night,  we arrived at the Port of Naples at 7:00 am. Naples  is the third-largest city of Italy after Rome and Milan and has over 3 million residents . It was founded by Greeks in the first millennium BC and is one of the oldest continuously inhabited urban areas in the world.

Naples is known for being the birthplace of pizza, its close proximity to Mount Vesuvius and the ancient ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum, its vibrant street life, rich history, and architecture. Also, it plays a key international role in international diplomacy,  home to NATO’s Allied Joint Force Command Naples.

The Port of Naples is one of the largest passenger ports in Italy serving almost 10 million

You can’t help but notice Mount Vesuvius  about 5 miles east of Naples  and a short distance from the shore. It is one of several volcanoes forming the Campanian Volcanic Arc.

The  eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD destroyed the Roman cities of Pompeii, Herculaneum and other settlements. The eruption ejected a cloud of stones, ash and gases to a height of  21 miles  and lasted for 2 days. More than 1,000 people are thought to have died in the eruption, though the exact toll is unknown.

Mount Vesuvius is an active volcano that emits sulfur-rich steam.

Vesuvius has erupted many times since. It is the only volcano on Europe’s mainland to have erupted in the last hundred years. It is regarded as one of the most dangerous volcanoes in the world because 3 million people live near enough to be affected by an eruption. This is the most densely populated volcanic region in the world.

We had already booked a small group tour with Viator for  full-day shore excursion including a journey along the picturesque Amalfi Coast, free time in hilltop towns of Positano and Sorrento and then a guided tour of  the archeological wonders of ancient Pompeii.

Full day excursion on the Amalfi Coast visiting Positano, Sorrento and Pompeii

Our guide, Lucca, was personable and extremely knowledgeable. On our drive, we stopped for a photo op along the coastal road for magnificent views.

Overlooking Sant’Agnello and Sorrento
Positano cascades magically from the mountain to the sea

We continued along the picturesque roads for another hour admiring the sights. On arrival at Positano,  the minivan dropped us off for an hour of free time to explore one of the most picturesque towns on the Amalfi Coast. Walk along characteristic narrow paths, visit artisan ceramic workshops, and try local lemon products and the distinct local style of dress.

Positano is known for its lemons and all types of lemon products
Locals have their own style

We walked down to La Pergola, a beach bar for a cappuccino and spofliatella, my favorite pastry. Spofliatella (sfow·lee·uh·teh·lay) is a shell-shaped pastry with a sweet or creamy filling, originating in the Campania region of Italy. . . Delicious!!!

Robin enjoying a perfect capuccino

 

Sfogliatella

The second stop on the tour was Sorrento; here, the scent of citrus fills the air and grape vines descend to the edge of the sea. Breathtaking views await behind every bend in the road along this spectacular coast.

Serpentine and awesome coastal roads on the return to Sorrento
Incredible stone bridges on Amalfi Drive

On arrival at Sorrento, the van dropped us at the city square and we enjoyed  lunch at local restaurant Pizerria Augora; Gnocchi for me and Pizza Margarita for Robin. We then enjoyed a bit of shopping and people watching.

Piazza Tasso, the central public square of Sorrento, the Lemon Capital of Italy.
Flag display on Piazza Tasso
Corso Italia (Main Street) vibrant  with shops, cafes, restaurants, bars, and souvenir shops

Traveling back towards Naples, we stopped for narrated tour of Pompeii, the most stunning archaeological site on the Italian Peninsula and one of the most visited. It is among the most popular tourist attractions in Italy, with approximately 2.5 million visitors annually.

The ruins of Pompeii are an open air museum where visitors can go back in time and discover a city that had been buried in ashes until 1748. Visitors experience the city much as it existed more than 2,000 years ago.

Palestra Grande

The Palestra Grande is an athletics field with an impressive portico used both as a training ground for gladiators and as a meeting centre for youth associations, its huge, portico-flanked courtyard includes the remains of a swimming pool.

Semicircular Amphitheatre was designed to fit about 20,000 people

The ghostly ruins of ancient Pompeii  were buried under a layer of lapilli (burning fragments of pumice stone). The result is a remarkably well-preserved slice of ancient life, where visitors can walk down Roman streets and check out millennia-old houses, temples, shops, cafes, amphitheatres and even a brothel.

Discovery of ruins continues 300 years after the first excavations

It was a wealthy town of 10,000 to 20,000 residents at the time it was destroyed. It featured many fine public buildings and luxurious private houses with lavish decorations, furnishings and artworks.

Excavated ruins with Mount Vesuvius in the distance

Organic remains, including wooden objects and human bodies, were interred in the ash; their eventual decay allowed archaeologists to create moulds of figures in their final moments of life. Over 1,000 bodies have been recovered. Actually,  reproductions of the victims made in plaster. 

Casts of the bodies who died in the ash are displayed.

Pompeii is a UNESCO World Heritage Site  as “the only archaeological site in the world that provides a complete picture of an ancient Roman city”.

We returned to the ship after the hour Amalfi Coast Tour ready to share our experiences with cruise mates over cocktails and dinner.

Island Princess. . . Home away from home

We noted that the character of the ship and passengers seemed a bit more relaxed and cordial. After all, we are in Italy!

4/4/24, Day 76, 60° sunny (up to 70º)

 

 

We sailed 227 Nautical miles along the west coast of Italy through the Tyrrenian Sea and Strait of Messina until we reached Catania, Sicily.

 

We arrived on time at the dock at 10 am, with a smoking Mount Etna as a backdrop.

Catania Cruise Port with Mt.Etna in the background

Catania is the second-largest municipality in Sicily after Palermo. It has important road and rail transport routes and hosts the main airport in Sicily . The city is located on Sicily’s east coast, facing the  Ionian Sea at the base of the active volcano Mount Etna. The population of the metropolican area of Catania is 1.1 million.

Catania was founded in the 8th century BC by the Greeks and has withstood multiple geologic catastrophes including earthquakes and volcanic eruptions. During the 14th century and into the  Renaissance period, Catania was one of Italy’s most important cultural, artistic and political centers. Today is the industrial, logistical, and commercial centre of Sicily. 

Mount Etna with its plume of water vapor, SO2 and CO2

Mount Etna,  is one of the tallest active volcanoes in Europe with a current height of 11,165 ft.  It covers an area of 459 sq. mi. with a basal circumference of 87 miles. This makes it by far the largest of the three active volcanoes in Italy, about two and a half times the height of the next largest, Mount Vesuvius. Only Mount Teide on Tenerife in the Canary Islands  surpasses it in the whole of the European–North-African region west of the Black Sea.

Mount Etna is one of the world’s most active volcanoes and is in an almost constant state of activity. The fertile volcanic soils produced from this activity support extensive agriculture with vineyards and orchards spread across the lower slopes of the mountain.

After our long tour yesterday we decided to do our own special tour a  “YOYO on the HOHO”.

This can be explained as a You’re On Your Own using a Hop On Hop Off  bus.

“Y.O.Y.O. on the H.O.H.O.”

The Hop ON Hop Off buses are usually equipped with earpieces explaining the sights in several languages.

H.O.H.O. through the town of Catania, note the safe cycle track

We travelled mostly along the seaside and  were impressed with the vistas and historical buildings.

Catania Seaside
Norman Castle

The Castello Normanno is situated on a rocky outcrop jutting out into the sea. It was built in 1076 by the Normans upon the foundations of a 7th-century Byzantine  fortification. It was important to the development of the region during the Middle Ages and is now a museum.

 

 

 

 

 

 

What was especially interesting was the juxtaposition of historical buildings and contemporary residences which added interest and a bit of whimsy.

Catania Old Town

We had the bus drop us in the center of Old Town and we strolled among the shops along the narrow streets. Some of the areas seemed a bit sketchy, so we made our way back to the ship about a mile away.

As was becoming normal, after we boarded the ship we made our way to the Good Spirits lounge for a post tour libation before preparing for dinner and another day at sea. Thank God, a day of rest!

4/5/24,  Day 77, 63° sunny, 3-6’ sea

A glorious day cruising on a moderate sea to catch up on blog research, trade options and relax by the indoor solarium Pool with a “dirty banana”.

Monitoring our progress on the interactive message board with daily activities listed.
The Ionain Sea is a busy place for marine traffic, although you rarely actually see a vessel.
Ionian Sea SW of Greece

 

A fabulous desert at yet another formal dinner

4/6/24, Day 78, 70° sunny

Flag of Greece, blue symbolizes the sky and seas and white denotes the purity of Greek independence.

 

Piraeus is the Port of Athens

We arrived at Piraeus at 7:00 am. It is  is  the chief port in Greece, the 5th largest passenger port in Europe and among the ten busiest in container traffic. Our travels today would take us to Athens about 10 miles from the Port.

Athens is the capital and largest city of Greece. With its urban area’s population numbering over three and a quarter million, it is the eighth largest in the European Union.

Athens Overlook

Athens is one of the world’s oldest cities, with its history spanning over 3,400 years. It was one of the most powerful city-states in ancient Greece and a center for democracy, the arts, education and philosophy. It is often regarded as the Cradle of Western Civilization and the birthplace of democracy.

National Library of Greece, Athens

We didn’t want to brave sharp elbows on the ship tours so we decided to “YOYO on the HOHO” (Your on Your Own on the Hop On Hop Off bus). We haven’t seen the Acropolis since our Honeymoon in 1992, so we decided to return.

Athens HOHO

 

Acropolis of Athens is one of the most famous Archeological sites in the world

 

The Acropolis was a symbol of Athenian democracy, wealth, and cultural superiority.

The Acropolis of Athens is an ancient citadel located on a rocky outcrop above the city of Athens  Greece, and contains the remains of several ancient buildings of great architectural and historical significance, the most famous being the Parthenon. 

The Acropolis was a major public and political location, hosting important figures like Plato, Socrates, and Aristotle.

The Acropolis is dedicated to the city’s patron goddess, Athena. Its existing buildings were primarily constructed in the second half of the 5th century BC and remains the most striking and complete ancient Greek monumental complex still existing in our times.

As we walked toward the impressive structure, the lines of tourists to gain access to the structure itself were daunting and the prospect of another steep climb was not in the cards for this retired triathelete. So we made our way back to the ship and through the city via the HOHO.

Lively Monastiraki is known for iconic landmarks . The surrounding streets are crammed with traditional tavernas and restaurants, many with Acropolis views.

On our way back, we noted that the city had a preponderance of porn shops and graffiti. What’s that all about? Anyway, we stopped at Good Spirits on the Ship to sip a Margarita before relaxing at the Lotus Pool to enjoy peace and quiet with the touristas still in the city.

4/7/24, Day 79, 67°, partly cloudy

Mykonos New Port

We travelled the 95 nautical miles slowly through the night and arrived at Mykonos at 7:00 am. Mykonos Town (Chora) is the capital of Ios Island and the quaint town is as striking as advertised.

Lovely Mykonos

There were plenty of tours available, but we elected a half-day, small group tour through Viator. The Cyclades Islands tour started with meeting Stephanie a bubbly, knowledgeable hellenic beauty who escorted us on our tour.

The Cyclades Islands tour started with lighthouse and views of the most famous island group in the Aegean Sea, which are some of the most beautiful islands in the world! Gorgeous sandy beaches, architecture in white and blue, traditional lifestyle, folk music, warm, hospitable people and barren landscapes with isolated chapels turn a trip to the Cyclades into a lifetime experience.

View of Chora from the Lighthouse

The Artenistis lighthouse is one of the iconic sights of Mykonos island. It afforded great views of the main town as well as many of the Cyclades Islands.  

Armenistis Lighthouse, 1891
Robin admiring the Cyclades

We then traveled to the Ano Mera tourist spot , Kalifades Beach and then the Center of town to enjoy walking tour of Mykonos Town,  the Mykonos Windmills, Little Venice and a 15th-century Church

Ano Mera

 

Kalifades Beach

 

Chora, Mykonos’ Main town
Chora Street Scene
Handmade Couture

The Mykonos windmills are an iconic feature of Mykonos.  There are currently 16 windmills on Mykonos of which seven are positioned on the landmark hill in Chora. Most of them were built by the Venetians in the 16th century, but their construction continued into the early 20th century. They were primarily used to mill wheat.  Years ago they were an important source of income for the inhabitants.

The windmills are easily accessible, situated just a short walk from Mykonos Town

Little Venice is one of the most romantic places in Mykonos. The neighborhood with elegant and gorgeous old houses built on the edge of the sea. This specific neighborhood is filled with buildings that wealthy Venetian merchants constructed back in the day. 

Little Venice is one of the liveliest places on the island, with numerous evening events going on during the summer months
Chora Waterfront with “Little Venice”
Island Princess waiting for us at New Port of Mykonos

After the tour of Chora we retraced our steps and did some shopping. What a lovely town and the weather was perfect! We then boarded the Sea Bus for the 10 minute ride to the New Port and our waiting ship.

Again, we enjoyed our post-tour cocktail, before preparing to tomorrow’s adventure in Turkey. A new destination for both of us.

4/8/24, Day 80, 58°, sunny

Only about 100 nautical miles east of Myknonos across the Aegean Sea, we arrived at Kusadasi,  Turkey which is actually in Southwestern Asia.

Athens, Greece to Kusadasi, Türkiye
Republic of Türkiye
Arrival at Kusadasi, Türkiye just after sunrise.

Kuşadası  is a municipality and resort town of  Turkey with a  population of about 130,000. The primary industry is tourism.  The Republic of Türkiye is the official name of the country . . .  good thing I didn’t have to spell that one at the St Helena’s spelling bee in the 6th Grade!

The name Kuşadası comes from the Turkish words kuş (bird) and ada (island), as it has the shape of a bird’s head when seen from the sea. The area has been a centre of art and culture since some of the earliest recorded history, and has been settled by many civilizations since 3,000 BC.  Kusadasi caters to tourists heading to Ephesus.

Through the country-side along the Aladag Mountains

The St. John Basilica, Ephesus, and Virgin Mary House tour is a unique and fascinating tour that combines history, religion, and natural beauty. Vulcan, our incredible guide, was  a walking encyclopedia and spoke with great respect for his country and its long history. Turkey now has 85 million people, but the original Turks are were Asians, and Mongols with a Muslim majority population.

We soon visited, the House of Virgin Mary located on the Aladag Mountains about 5 miles from Ephesus.  It was claimed that Mary came to Ephesus with St. John in 37 A.D. and lived there until her death in 48 A.D.

The House of the Virgin Mary

 

The house and Shrine of the Virgin Mary exuded a peaceful and serene atmosphere. We felt the serenity inside the  Virgin Mary’s House, where it is believed that she had spent her final years.

 

 

After enjoying a coffee at the base cafe, we travelled the countryside a few short miles to the entrance of Ephesus.

 

Lush drive to ancient Ephesus

Ephesus  was a city in ancient Greece on the coast of Ionia, which is now southwest Turkey. It was built in the 10th century BC by  Greek colonists, but then controlled by the Romans in 130 BC. According to tradition, John took the Mother Mary and came to Ephesus. He also wrote his Gospel here. 

Street Scene at Ephesus leading to the Library of Celsus

We entered the arched Magnesian Gate at Ephesus and began a slow, downhill walk to the ruins of the Roman provincial capital. Vulcan then highlighted pivotal sights like the Temple of Hadrian,  the Odeon Theater, the beautiful Library of Celsus and the dramatic Great Theater holding 24,000 spectators.

Temple of Hadrian
Ancient Ephesus ruins
Nika, Goddess of peace and victory

 

Mosaics in the Terrace Houses are over 2,000 years old
The Library of Celsus, an architectural marvel, and is one of the only remaining examples of great libraries of the ancient world located in the Roman Empire.
The Great Theatre of Ephesus was a monumental structure that could accommodate an astonishing 25,000 spectators. A masterpiece of ancient engineering, featuring a semicircular auditorium with tiered seating and a commanding stage.

 We then visited  the impressive ruins of the Byzantine Church of St John which mark the spot where St John the Evangelist was buried. This church was built over the tomb of St. John. 

“Gate of Persecution”

The main gate, called “Gate of Persecution” in the south has remained to be the most intact entrance among the entrances.  

Basilica of St. John

Walking among the ruins of the Basilica of St. John, you get a sense of the structure’s former grandeur. It was built over the tomb of St. John, where frescos and mosaics still remain and graceful columns give evidence of its splendid past. Frescos can be dated later than 8th century AD

Tomb of St John, under the central dome, that was once carried by the four columns at the corners.

What an incredible day we spent in awe of both ancient and holy structures. We made our way back to the port, but not before a detour to a Turkish Rug shop to watch a demonstration in carpet weaving.

 

 

 

 

Back at port, shop for souvenirs and view a Turkish carpet-weaving exhibition.

 

The port shops had more vendors than I think I’ve ever seen in a port and the locals were engaging and aggressive salesman.  We had fun and managed to come away with a few purchases.

 

How can you resist a “Genuine Fake Watch” ?

 

Bordeaux Dining Room

Back on the ship we regaled the group in the Reserve Dining Room with our tour and shopping adventure and probably laughed a bit too loud for the old folks.

4/9/24 Day 81, 62°, partly sunny

We travelled southwest 193 nautical miles through a calm sea from Kusadasi in the Aegean Sea to arrive at the Heraklion Port in Crete at 7:00 am.

 Heraklion Port , Crete

Heraklion  is the largest city and the capital of the island of Crete. It is the fourth largest city in Greece with a municipal population 215,000 in its metro area. The area of Heraklion has been continuously inhabited since at least 7000 BC, making it one of the oldest inhabited regions in Europe.

We decided to embark on an E-bike adventure along the coast and through the city.  After boarding a Port shuttle to the cab waiting area we met our driver Bobis, who delivered us to EcoBike tours on a narrow, hidden street about 10 minutes away.

Robin ready to roll

We were fitted for  helmets and received brief instruction for our group of four women and myself. Our young female guide was extremely patient with two of the ladies that had a hard time staying on the bike, one even falling over in the parking lot. It was a trying time but, you know me . . .I don’t complain!

Scenic Recreational Path along the north coast of Heraklion, The sea was angry my friends
Our patient leader and owner of the company
North Coast of Heraklion
Heraklion Street Scene

After riding mostly on bike paths we ventured into the city, where two of the ladies almost crashed into store fronts. We thought it best to dismount, tour a church or two and walk the town.

Greek Orthodox Cathedral of St. Minas was built from 1862 to 1895
Ceiling Detail
Vibrant stained glass
Town Square
Morosini Fountain

After walking the shopping area we returned on our bikes to bikes to the shop and had lunch at a nearby tavern. We  enjoyed some tasty local treats al fresco and after some local wine,  I suggested to these ladies that they should never ride a bike again!

We were happy to see Bobis. He picked us up at the tavern and took us back to port entrance where we boarded the Port Shuttle. After boarding the ship, I made a B-line to  Good Spirts for a Margarita to aid in decompression.

Farewell to Crete, Greece

 After a 3 hour nap, we settled on Room Service for dinner using the Princess Medallion App. We would then begin our three and a half day, 1,500 nautical mile sail to Gibraltar.

From Crete westward 1,500 nm by Malta, Sicily and above Tunisia and Algiers to visit “The Rock”

4/10/24, Day 82, 64°, sunny

We enjoyed a welcomed day at sea after our 13 port visits over the past 17 days. We filled our day with a bit of exercise walking the Promenade deck with a slight ship roll in the moderate 4 to 8 foot seas.

In the Med slipping by Malta and Sicily

After breakfast, we joined the enrichment lecture with  Jessica Potter then did a bit of blog research and trading, followed by a cocktail at Crooners before enjoying a magnificent creation by our restaurant manager Mario Toledo.

Frutti di Mare creation by Mario

4/11/24, Day 83, 59°, calm to moderate with 4-6’ sea

We woke realizing  that we only have two weeks remaining on our journey. Somehow, we couldn’t imagine returning to our usual daily routines on a stable land mass with a house and property to maintain. Maintenance free . . . Yeah, right!

After Coffee and pastry at Good Spirts we checked our position in the Mediterranean as we watched the world go by.

Bizerte, Tunisia, northernmost city in Africa, 40 miles north of the capital Tunis.

We took the time to again take advantage of the Enrichment lecture by Jessica. This time we learned about the Malaga tour coming up in a few days. It will be our last stop in the Med after Gibraltar, before we transit the Atlantic. With the options available, we decided to go on our own (YOYO). I was able to procure tickets for a Flamenco Show, not something you see every day.

Jessica Potter of Australia with her regular insightful tour tips in each of our destinations

We visited Future Cruises and booked a two week Caribbean Trip over the Christmas and New Year’s Holiday.  Princess provided  the trip gratis, due to the prior itinerary change and the amount of credit allowed upgrade to a Suite. Fantastic . . . We’ll do the Valley of The Kings as soon as the Middle East calms down.

After dinner, as usual, it was never a dull moment as the “Gods and Goddesses” party got started with music and creative costumes.

Andi, Cruise Director, as Poseidon at the God and Godesses Party

Back to our room, we were getting excited about celebrating our Anniversary, 32 years after our Honeymoon Cruise with a Princess Cruise in the Mediterranean.

Stateroom door decorations complements of our new friends, Libby and Bob

4/12/23, Day 84,  60°, calm to moderate sea

Today, of course, was a special day for us, but it was quite a surprise that all of the message boards around the ship scrolled a “Happy Anniversary” message as well!

After a light breakfast, knowing that unimaginable gastronomic delights awaited us later, we attended Jessica’s lecture. The subject was Madeira, situated in the North Atlantic Ocean,  500 mi southwest of mainland Portugal. It will be our first stop in the North Atlantic on the return to Bermuda and Ft. Lauderdale. Enough with the planning. . . 

It was time to enjoy lunch at Sabatini’s Specialty Restaurant for a “Wines of the World” special event.  Here you will enjoy special gourmet dishes prepared by the Executive Chef paired with a sampling of select fine wines.

Our last such event was indescribably delicious and one surpassed even that. In addition, we received very special treatment and seating by Daniele Rosafio, Director of Restaurant Operations and Nageswar Dinand, Executive Chef.

The 32nd Anniversary Couple

The service started and with each course, a complete description of the wine chosen and the Chef’s creation that accompanied it were presented.

Haslinger, Brut (France) paired with a trio of duck rolled in crepes, herb crusted shrimp and mini tartlets with palm heart salad
Navarro Estate, Gewurztraminer (USA) matched with cannelloni stuffed with mushrooms, ricotta and cheese sabayon
Vintage Tunina, Jermann (Italy) combined with a garlic parmesan chicken and crispy eggplant and a bed of roasted red pepper coulis
Babich Black Label, Pinot Noir (New Zealand) paired with a baked salmon , roasted cauliflower mousse and pea butter sauce.
Termes, Numanthis (Spain) matched with a herb mustard beef striploin with caponata topped with port wine demi-glace

The Gourmet dishes were complemented perfectly with the wines selected. The lunch was simply ORGASMIC!

Prunotto, Moscato d ‘Asti (Italy) combined with a white chocolate cheesecake with vanilla crème brûlée
Cheese Platter & Crackers
Our Special lunch concluded as we sailed past the coast of Algiers

After taking the day to digest our over the top lunch, we enjoyed  dinner in the Reserve Dining Room with Robin’s clients and friends.


Mario and Staff prepared  special deserts along with a cake for the occasion.

A Chocolate surprise from the Daniele, Director of Restaurant Operations
Serenaded by Tyrone, Jonel and magnificent waitstaff
Jonel belting out a lovely song into his peppercorn microphone

Jonel stole the show with his rendition of “Let me call you Sweetheart” and left us with an indelible memory of our special day.

4/13/14, Day 85, 65°, windy

We arrived at the port of Gibraltar, British Overseas Territory at 7:00 am after sailing  3.5 days and 1,500 nautical miles from Crete, Greece.

Flag of Gibraltar with no Union Jack

 

Gibraltar is a British Overseas Territory and city located at the southern tip of the Iberian Peninsula near the exit of the Mediterranean Sea into the Atlantic Ocean. The Strait of Magellan is considered to be one of the busiest and most crowded waterways in the world and has a direct impact on global trade. The landscape is dominated by the Rock of Gibraltar, at the foot of which is a densely populated town area, home to some 34,000 people, primarily natives of Gibraltar. Who knew?

Extremely busy ship traffic in the Strait of Magellan

The desirable Ship excursions were booked, so we used a local company Calypso tours. We had a group of only 20 on a minibus and our native guide Robert provided excellent commentary and access to the sights. Robert is a true Gibraltar patriot totally against ceding the rock to Spain.

At Harding’s Battery on Europa Point of Gibraltar with Tarifa, the Southernmost point of Europe  in the distance

From the Harding’s Battery on Europa Point to a labyrinth of tunnels below the surface, there are several attractions for history buffs. These tunnels were built during the American Revolutionary War by the British through a rock almost 200 millions years old. There were also actively used during World War II.

Harding’s Battery on Europa Point built in 1859
Very steep siege tunnels constructed over a 200 year period

Robert led us through the labyrinth of tunnels revealing several lookout points and larger hewn out areas filled with artillery batteries.

One of several Artillery Batteries within The Rock

The visit to St. Michael’s Cave was spectacular. It is a network of limestone caves at a height of over 980 feet above sea level. It is the most visited of the more than 150 caves found inside the Rock receiving almost 1,000,000 visitors a year. The cave was used as a venue for picnics, parties, concerts, weddings and even duels.

Stalactites and stalagmites formed by an accumulation of traces of dissolved rock deposited by water dripping from the ground above.

 

Spectacular Auditorium at St. Michael’s Cave

The largest of the chambers, named the Cathedral Cave, currently serves as an auditorium. It was converted due to the chamber’s natural acoustic properties. It is equipped with a concrete stage and has a seating capacity of over 100. It has been a regular venue for events such as dramas and concerts from opera to rock.

It was time to visit the infamous Barbary apes. Numbering 300, they are actually Macaques and  the only wild monkeys in Europe.

A skeevy Barbary ape sitting in a pile of food.

The monkeys are a hit with tourists, but not me. I skeeve monkeys of all kinds. They like to pose, eat and chase each other while screeching loudly. They can get aggressive,  actually one of our cruise-mates was bitten. Even worse, the ones from the lower part of the rock are known for grabbing i-phones out out your hand.

He looks innocent, but don’t trust him

We continued our tour with a drive by in the Spanish sector and then returned to the city of Gibraltar via the major road that cross the Gibraltar Airport Runway.

Winston Churchill Ave, a major road directly crosses the runway (stock photo)

Gibraltar International Airport is considered the only airport where a major road, Winston Churchill Avenue, directly crosses the runway. We had to stop while a plane landed. Fortunately, they completed a tunnel in 2023 for vehicular traffic, but mass transit, pedestrians and small vehicles still use the roadway.

Rock and Roll in the Square

We were dropped off downtown at Grand Casemates Gates and it still was a bit windy and chilly.
Many recommended  lunch at Roy’s Fish and Chips in the Main Plaza. We ran into friends David and Pattie who were on a different tour but had the same idea.

David and Pattie at Roy’s
Fish and Chips
A touch of Britain in the Square with BK in the background

We made our way back to the ship via taxi and headed to the Lotus pool for a 24 karat Margarita and a view of the harbor and a nap, followed by a simple dinner from room service.

Daily whimsical towel art on the Lido Deck
View of the harbor from Lido Deck

4/14/24 Day 86, 65°, sunny 6 mph wind

Just 130 nautical miles north of Gibraltar we arrived at The Port of Málaga, an international seaport in southern Spain that’s one of the oldest in the Mediterranean. The port  access to the city’s beaches, art galleries, and historic center.

The Port of Málaga, one of the oldest in the Mediterranean
Flag of the Spain

We decided to tour on our own using the Hop On, Hop off bus featuring a great tour of the city and surrounding areas like Malagueta and Mount Gibralfaro, then back to the Centro (Old Town).

We were “YOYO” on the “HOHO” for a drive through this wonderful city with stunning beaches
La Malagueta is nothing short of spectacular, clean and vibrant

 

Modern La Malagueta

We then headed for the hills above the city and got a glimpse of the Castle of Gibralfaro on the mountain of the same name. Mount Gibralfaro has been the site of fortifications since the founding of Málaga by the Phoenicians around 770 BC. 

The Alcazaba fortification can actually be seen from the portHistory

The Alcazaba  is a palatial fortification, built during the period of Muslim-rule.  The current complex was begun in the 11th century and was modified or rebuilt multiple times up to the 14th century. The Alcazaba is also connected by a walled corridor to the higher Castle of Gibralfaro. 

Alcazaba fortification built and/or modified in the 11th to 14th Centuries

We meandered back to the old city or Centro where we walked through history in a beautiful, clean and vibrant city.

Typical lovely streets found throughout the city

It was an absolutely beautiful day, sunny and 72º and as we continued our walk we came across the very impressive Roman Catholic Cathedral of Málaga. It was constructed between 1528 and 1782 in renaissance style. Gorgeous!

Baroque exterior of the Cathedral of Malaga
Busker ready to axe Robin, only his smile gave him away

As I mentioned, I was able to procure tickets to a Flamenco Show in the Interactive Music Museum. Before we found our seats we enjoyed a panini and a cerveza at a chic street cafe.

Cafes and shops line the many pedestrian-only streets.
Killer Panini at  La Casa de Lantuon

We had a short walk  to the Interactive Music Museum for the scheduled flamenco show. It was located in a very interesting museum displaying all kinds of musical instruments, but also allowed one to try their hand at creating something other than just noise.

Museo Interactivo de la Musica
Front row seats at the intimate venue for the Flamenco Show

 

 

 

 

 

The Flamenco Show with the classic guitar was  energetic and unforgettable. The dancing itself with its volume and speed was determined, loud and nearly frantic . .  it scared the hell out of me. Let’s put it this way, I wouldn’t want to be in an argument with that woman!

Malaga City Hall

Our walk back to the bus stop took us past the beautiful City Hall constructed in 1919. Malaga delighted us in many ways, we’ll be sure to return and spend more time here and in the surrounding cities of Marabella and Granada.

We boarded the HOHO back to the Island Princess waiting to take us across the Atlantic Ocean.

After cocktails at Crooners, we had dinner with Pattie and David, but I excused myself as I ran up to the Promenade deck to get a final look at Gibraltar before we passed through the Strait and entered the Atlantic Ocean.

Sunset over Tarifa, the Southernmost point of Europe, as we entered the Atlantic Ocean.

Emotions for me were mixed. I was looking forward to the Atlantic crossing, but was slightly downhearted realizing that our dream trip would come to an end in 11 days.

Wish us fair winds and following seas.

 

France, Gibraltar, Italy, Mediterranean, Portugal, Spain, World Cruise 2024

Europe and the Mediterranean

Ahoy Mates!! 

It has been quite a few months since we returned home from our epic 97-day World Cruise. Since that time, we have battled Tropical Storm Debby, Hurricanes Helene and Milton, travelled to Orange County, California and South Beach in Miami. We both hope that you are well and with your indulgence, I’ll continue our world cruise saga.

You may remember that we departed Agadir Morocco  on day 63 (March 22, 2024) and were about to begin visits to 15 European ports over the next 22 days traveling over 4,900 Nautical miles before departing the Mediterranean Sea. Needless to say, that’s a heavy schedule and a hell of a departure from the weeks of sea days we enjoyed.

Ports of Call: Lisbon, Cartagena Barcelona, Marseille, Toulon, Genoa, Rome, Naples, Sicily, Athens, Mykonos, Kusadasi, Crete, Malaga, Gibraltar

On a trip such as this, we are often fortunate enough to befriend wonderful guests and bond with the incredibly welcoming staff. This trip Trumped all others in that regard.  Our newly found friends and staff were delightful. All of us lamented the fact that Mario Fernandez, our incredibly affable waiter from Goa, India, was leaving us at our next port of Lisbon, Portugal.

Bob Di, Libby, Pattie, David, Bob and Robin

 

Mario Toledo and Mario Fernandes

On Day 64 Mario Toledo, Manager, had the chef prepare a special cake for Mario Fernandez. He organized a gaggle consisting of about 20 of Mario’s admiring workmates and along with our with gifted voices, we serenaded him with a hearty rendition of John Denver’s “Jet Plane”. Quite the send off. . .I’m sure he won’t forget it!!

Bob Di, Bob, Libby, Mario, Robin, Pattie, David
Fond Farewell to Mario!

  Our Celebration continued in the Princess Theatre with the production show ” Do you want to Dance”. The cast was spectacular showcasing their talents along with eye-catching lighting effects and costume changes.

 

Following the show, we indulged in a bit of Musical Bingo in the Lounge, which is always great fun. On the way back to the room we caught an incredible acrobatic act performed by a friendly and talented Polish couple that we met while re-boarding in Morocco.

Piazza Showcase with Duo Claudio

After nights like these I am always amazed at those that have never booked a cruise because they were afraid they would be bored! You can’t be serious!!

It was time retire to the room and  prepare for our landfall in Europe and the beginning of  our 15 port tour through Europe. It was on this day that I published the Perth to Cape Town blog entry knowing full well that I wouldn’t have time to include all of West Africa, Macaronesia and Europe.

Portugal
Flag of Portugal

3/24/24 , Day 65 , Lisbon, Portugal   62°, cloudy,  forecast high  75º

We  arrived in Lisbon at 7:00 am under cloudy skies and 62º, typical for late March. Lisbon is the  capital city of Portugal and has  a strategic geographical position at the mouth of the Tagus River, the longest in the Iberian Peninsula. It one of the oldest cities in the world, known for charming old neighborhoods, colorful architecture, old-fashioned trams, delicious food, and rich history. 

25th of April Bridge over Tagus River

 

The crew was busy provisioning at the Port of Lisbon
Docked in Lisbon Old Town

Lisbon  is the capital and largest city of Portugal and one of the oldest cities in the world, with an estimated population of 600,000  in an area of 38 Sq miles. The city lies in the western portion of the Iberian Peninsula on the northern shore of the River Tagus. About 2.9 million people live in the metropolitan area, making it the third largest metropolitan area in Iberia after Madrid and Barcelona. 

After the fall of the Roman Empire, it was ruled by a series of Germanic tribes from the 5th century, most notably the Visigoths. Later it was captured by the Moors in the 8th century. In 1147 , Alfonso I of Portugal conquered the City and in 1255 it became Portugal’s capital, and the political, economic, and cultural center of the country.

Robin and I elected a 9:00 am Lisbon Highlights Tour via Motor coach that was guided and used audio headsets that made the tour much more enjoyable than having to heard closely to George, our guide.  The Tour included the Eduardo VII Park, Christ The King Statue, Jeronimos Monastery, Maritime Museum, Belem Tower and the Monument of the Discoveries.

Eduardo VII Park overlooking  the monument below that celebrates end of dictatorship in 1974

After traveling north through the city we visited  Edward VII Park . The 64 acre park is named for King Edward VII of the United Kingdom, who visited Portugal in 1903 to strengthen relations between the two countries and reaffirm their alliance. We enjoyed the surroundings in the park before we travelled across the Tagus River to Almada to the Sanctuary of Christ the King and the shrine of Christ overlooking the city of Lisbon. The statue was erected to express gratitude because the Portuguese were spared the direct destructive effects of World War II. It was inspired by the the Christ the Redeemer statue of Rio de Janeiro in Brazil.

Christ the King (Christo Rei) in Almada

We then returned to Lisbon to visit The Jerónimos Monastery, one of the most prominent examples of the late Portuguese Gothic style of architecture in Lisbon. It was erected in the early 1500s near the launch point of Vasco da Gama’s first Journey. You may remember from your elementary school history, that Vasco was a Portuguese explorer and nobleman who was the first European to reach India by sea. His initial voyage to India by way of Cape of Good Hope was the first to link Europe and Asia by an ocean route, connecting the Atlantic and the Indian oceans. 

Jeronimos Monastery is popular with many tourists

The ornate side entrance to the monastery was designed by Juan de Castillo and is considered one of the most significant of his time. The main visitors’ entrance and wings housing the Maritime Museum and the National Archaeology Museum

The main visitors’ entrance housing the Maritime Museum and the National Archaeology Museum

The maritime museum is a celebration of Portuguese exploration and naval prowess and is next to the Jeronimós Monastery.  I found the first part fascinating and I really don’t think the early Portuguese explorers get enough credit for their achievements in cartography and discovering areas previously unknown to Europeans.

Dom Henrique of Portugal, Duke of Viseu, (1394-1460) better known as Prince Henry the Navigator, was a central figure in the early days of the Portuguese Empire and in the 15th-century European maritime discoveries and maritime expansion. 

Dom Henrique of Portugal, (1394-1460) known as Prince Henry the Navigator

Although Prince Henry the Navigator was neither a sailor nor a navigator, he sponsored a great deal of exploration along the west coast of Africa. Under his patronage, Portuguese crews founded the country’s first colonies and visited regions previously unknown to Europeans. Henry is regarded as an originator of the Age of Discovery and the Atlantic enslaved people trade.

Portuguese Explorations of da Gama, Cabral and Diaz

 

Vasco da Gama, Portuguese Noblemen and Navigator (1460-1524)

We did spend quite a while looking at the map of the routes the early explorers took and the ships they that they travelled on were amazing, smaller than a river barge now. These ships carried small crews and sailed for months at a time through uncharted waters which was quite incredible.  All of the rooms and exhibits had extensive information in English and after suffering moderate brain overload ,we toured the final section which displayed showed the royal river barges and also some seaplanes which were quite impressive.

A standout was the gilded  royal barge Sirius, built in 1778 at the Royal Naval Shipyard in Lisbon by order of Queen Maria I. It served various functions for the royal house until 1957, when, on its last voyage, it transported Queen Elizabeth II of England on the Tagus River.

The Royal Barge, Sirius

Belém Tower , officially, the Tower of Saint Vincent, is a 16th-century fortification (1519) located in Lisbon that served as a point of embarkation and disembarkation for Portuguese explorers and as a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon. This tower symbolizes Portugal’s maritime and colonial power in early modern Europe.

Belem Tower, The Tower of Saint Vincent,  1549

Since 1983, the tower has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site, along with the Jerónimos Monastery. It is often portrayed as a symbol of Europe’s Age of Discoveries and is near the Monument of that name which stands at 170 Ft. This stunning monument was designed to commemorate the Age of Discoveries in Portugal and was inaugurated in 1960, on the fifth centenary of one of the country’s great discoverers, Prince Henry the Navigator, who discovered the Azores, Madeira, and Cape Verde.

Monument to the Discoveries with Prince Henry the Navigator on the Prow

The Monument to the Discoveries is made up of a group of sculptures that represent the prow of a caravel (a small sailing ship constructed by the Portuguese to explore the Atlantic Ocean). Leading the ship is Prince Henry the Navigator and behind him are many other great Portuguese discoverers.

We walked through the park between the two historical sites and encountered some lovely, spirited Portuguese ladies engaged in the  entrepreneurial activity of tropical pineapple beverages on a cloudy day.  Who wants a Pineapple?

quem quer um abacaxi
We skipped the libation and returned to the ship for lunch at the grill and then back out to walk the old city which was right across the street from the dock. Our impression was mixed,  lovely tile sidewalks that were not maintained, gardens not well tended and lots of graffiti. The City looks tired and in need of cleaning and maintenance, but people were lovely. There were many sidewalk cafes frequented by locals and tourists alike.
Santa Maria Major street scene
Old Town Street Scene, guess Sunday is laundry day!

 

Plaza cafe with overlooking balconies adorned with creepy mannequins

 

Barbearia Oliveira since 1879 gets great reviews!

During our travels through the city Robin bought new scarf that caught her eye, just glad it wasn’t another pillow! At last count we had over 64; It takes me about 10 minutes to get them off of the bed before we can sleep.

Our day was full, we logged about 5 miles and after a quick turnaround we met friends Bob and Libby for cocktails in The Wheelhouse and then dinner in the Reserve. As usual, our attentive staff  performed marvelously even without our friend Mario. We’ll look forward to seeing him on another trip.

We were late departing the dock at 10 pm as the weather forecast is calling for 25 to 30 knots of  wind and 12-15 foot seas. We may need to by pass next port of Cadiz on the western Coast of Spain as it is exposed to the weather. We had to adjust our clocks again before retiring, but for the first time we adjusted the clocks forward 1 hour., but before we did, I went out on the balcony and got a parting shot of Lisbon.

Departing Lisbon on the Tagus River under the 25th of April Bridge and the watchful eye of Christ the King

3/25/24, Day 66, at Sea,  60° Cloudy , light rain, 6-8’ swell

At 11 am  we were cruising on the west coast of Spain just south of Palos de la Frontera, but instead of traveling to the new world as Columbus did from that port on August 3, 1492, we were headed to Gibraltar and the Mediterranean. It was then that Captain Paul Slight announced that we would need to by pass Cadiz and then transit the 8 mile wide Strait of  Gibraltar late this afternoon. We were headed for an unplanned stop at Cartagena, a protected port and naval station on the Southeast coast of Spain.

HUZZAH Captain Slight! Captain Paul Slight came aboard and took command in Cape Town about three weeks ago. He is a dynamic, supportive and highly qualified Maritime Captain with over 30 years experience in vessel piloting and crew management and he also offers competent  guest services, and error-free navigation.  Since taking command he has had to deal with  several issues including ship propulsion problems, significant weather and ship infrastructure issues. His affable personality with ability to communicate with passengers and crew members made us feel confident in his ability to competently deal with any issue. No matter what the issue, he always addressed the problem effectively and instilled confidence.

As we slipped past Gibraltar in fog and mist about 5 miles off, I captured a ghostly shot of the Rock just before sundown.

5 miles SE of Gibraltar

 

 

 

After dinner in the MDR, as we walked back to our room we strolled past the the acrobats performing in the Piazza and Robin was picked to be part of show. There never seems to be a dull moment!

Robin performing with Duo Claudio

 

3/26/23, Day 67  Cartagena, Spain, 58° forecast high 63º, Windy

Cartagena, Spain
Flag of Spain

Cartagena is a Spanish city and major naval station  has been inhabited for over two millennia, being founded around 227 BC. Much of the historical significance of Cartagena stemmed from its coveted defensive port, one of the most important in the western Mediterranean. It remains an important naval seaport and home to a large naval shipyard. It has a population of about 410,000 in the metropolitan area.

Island Princess moored at the Cruise ship dock

The weather was chilly and gloomy when we departed the ship, but excited to see the original Cartagena,  we walked past the marina to the center of town. Since this was a visit scheduled only a day ago we decided to forego any ship tours and we set out on our own, which we call “YOYO” (Your On Your Own).

 

Yacht Port Cartagena

 

Beautiful, pristine marbled-tiled walkways and plazas

After some research and due to the fact that we wished to stay dry between the rain showers we chose to visit The Cartagena Naval Museum  a subsidiary of the Naval Museum of Madrid. Here we found models of sailing ships, uniforms, clothing, weapons, armament, navigation, torpedoes, and mines. They also have a collection of approximately 40 model sailing ships collected by Julio Castelo Matran.  I was drawn in by ship models, especially the HMS Surprise.

HMS Surprise, British Frigate of “Master and Commander”

You may be familiar with Patrick O’Brian  an English novelist and translator, best known for his Aubrey–Maturin series, a sequence of 20 nautical historical novels which I have read intensely and kept in my library.  These sea novels are set in the Royal Navy during the Napoleonic Wars and center on the friendship of the English naval captain Jack Aubrey and the Irish–Catalan physician Stephen Maturin.

HMS Surprise is a frigate of the Royal Navy, Jack Aubrey’s favorite ship and is  the main setting of the movie adaptation Master and Commander The Far Side of the World . Russell Crowe does a masterful job in his portrayal as Captain Aubrey. The film won two Academy awards for  Cinematography and Best Sound Editing at the 76th Academy Awards in 2004 and received 10 nominations in total across various categories.

Russell Crowe as Captain Jack Aubrey

We then walked next door to a second Naval Museum, this one specializing in Submarine service in Spain. Peral was the first successful submarine to be entirely powered by electric batteries and the first fully military-capable submarine in history. It was built by the Spanish engineer and sailor Isaac Peral for the Spanish Navy. the submarine was launched on 8 September 1888.

The Peral sub was the first military vessel to be built in a Spanish Naval shipyard using a steel hull. In 1890 it was the first sub to fire a torpedo underwater. On June 7, 1890, it sailed 1 hr. at 10 meters depth and emerged at pre-established coordinates.

Peral, the first military capable Submarine: 72 feet long, 9.6 feet beam

We continued our tour of this great historical city which presented an interesting layout, was exceeding clean with it’s polished marble tile walkways, attractive people, street vendors and very little in the way of graffiti and hawkers.

Street Market
Pretty Cartagenians


Sangria and Pizza Margarita at “Yellow Submarine”

We returned to the ship for a short nap and then joined the usual suspects for dinner. By this time, in the Dining Room, we had a reputation for jokes, laughter and were certainly guilty of being convivial!

 

Robin, Pattie, Libby, Bob, David and Bobby Di

3/27/24 , Day 68 , at Sea,  61°, cloudy

At Sea in the Mediterranean, northeast of Valencia, Spain

We slept  late,  ambled up to Horizon Court Buffet to enjoy a leisurely breakfast then attended an enrichment lecture on upcoming ports. We then just relaxed for one of our few sea days while in the Med.

Robin taking advantage of a beautiful day at sea

This evening was on of the Three Formal nights this month and we prepared for enjoying a dinner at the Bayou Cage and Steakhouse with our new found friends Bob & Libby.

Sumptuous Formal Dinner at the Bayou Steakhouse
Another delectable dessert . . .really?

3/28/24 Day 69, 61 °, sunny windy

At 7 am we caught a glimpse of Barcelona from the Port.

Port of Barcelona below the escarpment of Montjuic

Barcelona is a city of about 1.6 million people overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, and is famous for Gaudí and other Art Nouveau architecture and one of Europe’s trendiest cities. Barcelona is one of Europe’s principal seaports and busiest European passenger port; its international airport handles over 50 million passengers per year, and has an extensive motorway and high speed rail line line with a link to France and the rest of Europe.  Needless to say, it is Crazy Busy! 

Montjuic Castle

The escarpment of Montjuïc  overlooks the harbor and is topped by Montjuïc Castle, a fortress built in the 17–18th centuries to control the city. Today, the fortress is a museum and Montjuïc is home to several sporting and cultural venues, as well as Barcelona’s biggest park and gardens.

Rather than deal with the sharp elbows of the folks on the Princess tours, we elected to do Barcelona on our own (YOYO) and after taking the shuttle to the city we elected to use the Hop On Hop Off bus (HOHO) for our foray into the city. Its a method that we would use often on many excursions . . . YOYO on the HOHO

 

HOHO (Hop On Hop Off)

 

Modern Barcelona

 

Beautiful architecture of the Eixample district

 

Casa Batlló designed by Antoni Gaudi

Our mission was to visit The Basilica de La Sagrada Familia which we haven’t visited since our honeymoon in 1992. We purchased tickets on line a week ago, absolutely the right choice. . . several were turned away! After a transfer from the Red HOHO to the Blue, we made our way to the Basilica and were in awe as it came into view. They have made a lot of progress in 32 years!!

The Spires of La Sagreda Família

Sagrada Família, is a church under construction and is the largest unfinished Catholic church in the world. Designed by Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí (1852–1926).

Exterior detail and throngs of tourists

Construction of Sagrada Família began in March 1882. Then a year later Gaudí took over as chief architect, transforming the project with his architectural and engineering style, combining Gothic and curvilinear Art Nouveau forms.  At the time of his death in 1926, less than a quarter of the project was complete.

Astounding design, detail and craftsmanship of the Sanctuary
Captivating Stained Leaded Glass Windows

Relying solely on private donations, Sagrada Família’s construction progressed slowly and was interrupted by the Spanish Civil War, work slowdowns and Covid. Only just recently, in March 2024, an updated forecast reconfirmed a likely completion of the building in 2026. Only 144 years!!

Columns supporting the ornate vaulted cathedral ceiling
“it is probably impossible to find a church building anything like it in the entire history of art”
HOHO back through the city
Modern Trams at Francesc Macia
Walking through Quadrat d’Or, Barcelona’s “Golden Mile”

We finished our trip with a walk back to the ship through walkways and plazas until we came to La Rambla the iconic street offering an assortment of buskers, museums, and markets creating a lively experience.  It was crammed with people, and litter, but the architecture was wonderful.

After the shuttle back to the port, we settled into Good Spirits for a cocktail, then met our new Steward, Gerald. He continued in the tradition of Adi with superb courteous and timely service. We were so fortunate to have such great staff.

3/29/24 Day 70, 65°, 20 mph wind , hazy sunshine

Tricolor Flag of France

From Barcelona, we sailed 185 nautical miles and at 9:00 arrived in Marseille which is in the Provence region of southern France. With nearly 2 million residents in the metropolitan area, it the second most populous city in France after Paris.

The Marseille harbor is the site for the sailing competitions during the Paris 2024 Olympic Games

Founded in 600 BC by Greek settlers, Marseille is the oldest city in France, as well as one of Europe’s oldest continuously inhabited settlements. Marseille has been a trading port since ancient times.

The Mucem in Marseille on the way to the Old Harbor

We boarded the Port Shuttle to the Old Port and came across The Mucem, which is the first museum devoted to Mediterranean cultures, it is a completely novel structure. Marseille a working port, not really touristic, but we continued to walk to the Old Port and meandered through the port and surrounding streets.

The Old Port with 2,300 boats
Tourist Train . . . I don’t think so!

The city was larger than we first thought, but it was somewhat unkept city with beggars and buskers,  a departure from the beauty of Spain or Portugal. However, there were some beautiful facades , churches and fortifications.

Marseille Cathedral 1896
Marseille Cathedral Entrance
Old Port Arcade
Tyrone

We walked back to the Shuttle drop off which was about 4 miles from the ship. On our arrival ,we were greeted by Tyrone Magat, waiter extraordinaire. The staff work extremely hard to ensure the guests comfort and pleasure.

We enjoyed a light lunch and adult beverage before a nap prior to dinner.

There was an all day tour that we neglected to take due to the weather, but it is something we’ll consider another time. Aix en Provence  is a university city in the Côte d’Azur region of southern France. It was the birthplace of Post-Impressionist painter Paul Cézanne. Called the City of a thousand fountains it is a tourist favorite.

 

Aix-en-Provence (photo by Rick Steves)

 

The passing days were marked by delectable deserts

3/30/24 Day 71, 61°, windy. Rain

We sailed only 85 nautical miles and arrived at the town of La Seyne Sur Mer,  just west of Toulon, it is France’s most sheltered port. When we tied up it was raining steadily, so we were happy that we did not have a planned excursion.

From here, there was an option to visit Toulon  a port city on southern France’s Mediterranean coast, lined with sandy beaches and  coves. It’s a significant naval base and the harbor is home to submarines and warships, as well as fishing boats and ferries.  The Commune of Toulon with about 200,000 people is a 40 minute drive or a $35 water taxi ride from our dock. 

La Seyne Sur Mer Marina

We considered just relaxing on the ship, but at about noon the rain stopped and we then walked the 1.2 miles to the the town of La Seyne-Sur-Mer.

La Seyne Sur Mer Market

We ambled through the town and admired the plentiful graffiti wall murals.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We happened upon the Église Notre-Dame-du-Bon-Voyage de La Seyne-sur-Mer or Church of Our Lady of Good Voyage. It was built on the site of the first chapel in 1603, replaced by the current structure in 1682.

Church of Our Lady of Good Voyage, completed 1682

We continued stretching our legs with a walk back to the ship to relax before cocktails with new friends and  Mario Toledo’s rendition of mixed seafood prepared tableside.

Frutti Di Mare

We returned to the room with a reminder to set our clocks 1 hr forward and prepare for our excursion to Genoa, Cinque Terre & Porto Venere tomorrow.

3/31/24, Day 72, 53° cloudy, Rainy

Italy’s national flag 

On Easter Sunday at 7:00 am, we arrived at Genoa, a  seaport in northwestern Italy located about 75 miles  south of  Milan. It  is the birthplace of Christopher Columbus (1451) who embodied the active maritime tradition of the city. With a population of about 580,000, shipbuilding is the major industry and the port of Genoa leads all other Italian ports in volume of passengers and freight traffic and the main source of city income.

On our arrival and for most of the day, the weather was miserable. It would affect the Cinque Terre & Puerto Venere Tour that we had planned, but not the comforting feeling at being in wonderful Italy, known for its landscapes, art, architecture, food and the home of all of my ancestors.

Cinque Terre

Fortunately, our guide Andreina, was knowledgeable, informative and kept the day action packed and interesting, even if the weather did not cooperate.

Andreina, whose name means courageous warrior, was indeed that

We boarded the coach at 7:35 am and drove South on Rt 1 through the Vara river valley to Porto Venere. Due to the sea conditions, we did not take the 75 minute motorboat tour along the whole coast of Cinque Terre. The Cinque Terre (meaning ‘Five Lands’) is a coastal area  in the northwest of Italy and comprises five villages: Monterosso al MareVernazzaCornigliaManarola, and Riomaggiore

Portovenere

Porto Venere is a village on the Ligurian coast of northwestern Italy. The picturesque harbor  is lined with brightly colored houses while narrow medieval streets lined with shops lead up the hill from the ancient city gate to the castle. The Gothic-style Church of St. Peter sits atop a rocky headland.

Medieval streets of Porto Venere
How about a pasta curtain for your kitchen reno?

We strolled around the old town and passed by a pesto shop selling delicious freshly made basil-based sauce and related products like fresh pasta.

Fresh Pesto Anyone?

How about a schlepp up a steep incline to view the 750 year old Church of St Peter. It was worth it.

Church of St Peter in Genovese Gothic Style, built in 1277

With the help of Andreina, our courageous warrior and guide, we fought our way to board the crowded train with a “Tokyo push”. It was standing room only for the short trip. Can’t imagine what it’s like during season.

Train Station at La Spezia, headed for Montessoro
Standing Room Only to Montessoro al Mare

Monterosso al Mare is one of the five villages in Cinque Terre. Set amid some of the most dramatic coastal scenery on the planet, these five ingeniously constructed fishing villages can lift the most depressed spirits. Winding paths traverse seemingly impregnable cliff sides, but a 19th-century railway line cut through a series of coastal tunnels, allows easy passage from village to village. Cars were banned over a decade ago.

Spectacular walk from the train station to Monterosoro al Mare
Monterosso al Mare

We walked to the center of the small town for a wine tasting with some local cheese, which we followed with one of my favorite pasta dishes at nearby Ristorante Al Carugio

Ristorante Al Carugio, Spaghetti ai Fruiti di Mare

We then had a short walk to the Train Station at Monterosso for the 11 minute train ride to Levanto and our waiting motor coach. 

Monterosso to Levanto via train

The coach braved the now heavy rain and travelled through dozens of tunnels then we passed by Portofino on our way back to Genoa. 

View of Genoa from the Ship

Genoa is noted for its many examples of medieval, Renaissance, Baroque, and Gothic Architecture. The Ducal Palace, San Lorenzo Cathedral, Church of San Matteo, and Palazzo San Giorgio are some of the most important historical monuments. Obviously, worthy of a return in better weather.

After our return to the ship and during our dinner with the “fun table”, we heard the familiar high frequency tone over the PA system that precedes bad news from the bridge. Captain Slight announced that  due to a weather system approaching the port of Livorno and Florence, there will be strong winds at the port and worsening conditions throughout the day. We would need to bypass our visit to Livorno and proceed directly to Rome. We will make our way to Civitavecchia arrive in the morning, 1 day early.

4/1/24,  Day 73, 70°, cloudy, foggy

Italy

We sailed 240 nautical miles through the night and arrived at Civitavecchia at 10am. It is a a major cruise and ferry port, and major the port of entry for the city of Rome about 40 miles away. The weather was gloomy and windy so we elected to forgo a visit to the port town and remained on board enjoying the peace and quiet and then visiting the spa. It’s good to be king.

4/2/24,  Day 74, 58°, partly sunny, scattered showers

Civitavecchia to Rome

Civitavecchia is an hour’s drive from Rome. Known as the Eternal City, Rome remains a political capital, a religious centre, and a memorial to the creative imagination of the past. With a population of nearly 3 million it is one of the holiest spaces in the world. However, you don’t need to be religious to appreciate the incredible collections and works of art held in the Vatican Museums.

Some take the train or bus transportation from the ship, but since we had an early tour Discover the Vatican tour that we booked on our own, we did not want to chance traffic or rail delays. We left the ship at 7:05 am to meet a private limo with Rome Cabs at 7:15 and arrived at Vatican 8:30. We met our small group of 10 with a knowledgeable expert guide Francesca. Audio headsets were provided so we could hear the guide clearly and we avoid long queues with skip-the-line entrance tickets. 

Skip the line Tour . . . Really!!

Even so, the galleries were packed! At peak times, 20,000 people a day pass through the Vatican Museums and St. Peter’s Basilica.

Model of Vatican City to plan our tour

Vatican City, a city-state surrounded by Rome, Italy, is the headquarters of the Roman Catholic Church.  (and the smallest country in the world) . It’s home to the Pope and a trove of iconic art and architecture.

Gallery of Busts, one of 54 galleries, is filled with Greek and Roman sculptures.

We navigated the vast complex of rooms, artwork, and history and Francesca  brought the ancient collection to life. The amazing works of art that have been collected for centuries by the popes are found in a long series of galleries and museums. Each gallery was  captivating and the vastness of the collection was overwhelming.

Francesca describes the baths in the Octagonal Courtyard

The Museum also houses the pontifical collections of classical sculpture dating back to the original collection of pope Julius II (1503-1513). One of the most famous ancient sculptures (30-40 BC) is the  The Laocoön Group, called “the prototypical icon of human agony”. Created likely by Agesander, a Greek Sculptor, it was excavated in Rome in 1506 and put on public display.  

Laocoön and his sons is a Greek marble sculpture, 30- 40 BC 

Apparently, Laocoön a Trojan priest and his two sons were killed by snakes sent by Athena. They were attacked by snakes because they threw a spear at the Trojan horse in an attempt to foil the Greeks’ plan. 

Hercules dominates the Round Room and Nero’s $2 billion  bath

The Round Room is one of the most stunning rooms inside the Vatican Museums. You can not miss this statue of Hercules in the Round Room. It is the largest statue in this room and it is also the only statue cast in bronze.

The centerpiece of this room is the Emperor Nero’s bathtub. This was taken from his great Golden Palace which Nero had constructed back in 64A.D.  The bathtub is made from a very rare and precious stone called Red porphyry and has a 43-foot circumference. The bath is the most expensive single item in the entire museum valued at 2 Billion.

Gallery of the Candelabra
Ceiling Fresco in the Candelabra Gallery

 

We were then herded through long hallway containing sculptures, the Gallery of the Candelabra. Beautiful and  impressive, but hard to see because there were so many people in there. The ceiling was frescoed and gilded. That hall continued into another that displayed large and detailed tapestries

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next we were ushered into the phenomenal Gallery of Maps. The maps were wonderful, but most impressive to me was the illuminated golden ceiling that framed about a thousand small paintings. It is truly inspiring.

Illuminated Golden Ceiling of the Gallery of Maps

By far one of the most over-the-top as far as decoration goes, the Gallery of Maps is literally a gigantic mural with frescoes on both sides of maps depicting Italy.  It took Ignazio Danti three years (1580–1583) to complete the 40 fresco map panels in the 390 foot long gallery.

Map of Sicilia by Danti, one of the 40 panels in the 390 foot Gallery of Maps

One after another after another, we walked through rooms, each amazingly gorgeous and unique. There was so much to see. We went up stairs and downstairs into more and more rooms connected directly with each other by exquisite doorways. There are 24 galleries and 54 rooms including the Sistine Chapel with over 70,000 exhibits over 9 miles of corridors! It would require several days to do a tour properly.

In the Raphael Rooms are ceilings and walls painted by the Italian Renaissance artist Raphael who began his works at the same time that Michelangelo was beginning work on the Sistine Chapel’s ceiling.

Disputation of the Sacrament by Raphael

One of his most famous frescoes is the Disputation of the Sacrament. It was painted between 1509 and 1510 and  it depicts the Catholic Church’s belief about the Eucharist, or the source and summit of the Christian life.

Finally, we stepped inside the Sistine Chapel which is the pope’s official residence in Vatican City. It takes its name from Pope Sixtus IV, who had it built between 1473 and 1481. Since that time, it has served as a place of both religious and functionary papal activity. Today, it is the site of the papal conclave, the process by which a new pope is selected.

The frescoes on the ceiling, collectively known as the Sistine Ceiling, were commissioned by Pope Julius II in 1508 and were painted by Michelangelo in the years from 1508 to 1512. They depict incidents and personages from the Old Testament.

Sistine Chapel adorned with magnificent, famous frescoes

Sistine Chapel is impressive beyond words, but we were not allowed to take photos or videos. I have included a few stock photos that can’t really capture the magnificence of the room.

Michelangelo painted the entirety of the Sistine Chapel ceiling in the medium of fresco. One of the most popular methods of painting during the Renaissance, fresco means fresh in Italian, and involves painting directly onto an area of freshly laid and still-wet lime-based plaster.

Creation of Adam occupies the Center spot in the Sistine Ceiling

The Creation of Adam is probably the most famous fresco in the Sistine Chapel and one of the most famous in modern art. It was created by Michelangelo around 1511. 

Although the Chapel was packed with people, most observed the “Silenzio” rule so we could experience and enjoy in peace the magnificence of one of the greatest artists of all time.

Bramante Staircase

The tour was continued through staircases and hallways until we exited and prepared to  finish by visiting St. Peter’s Basilica. Good thing we were on the “skip the line tour “, the queue to get it into the Basilica was blocks long.

Vatican City, St Peter’s Square and Basilica

The Papal Basilica of Saint Peter in the Vatican  is a church of the Italian High Renaissance located in  Vatican City. Construction of the present basilica began on 18 April 1506 and was completed in 1626. St. Peter’s as a work of architecture, it is regarded as the greatest building of its age.

Basilica of Saint Peter

Designed principally by Bramante, Michelangelo and Maderno , which sounds like an Italian law firm, St. Peter’s is one of the most renowned works of Italian Renaissance architecture, is the largest church in the world by interior measure and regarded as one of the holiest Catholic shrines.

Papal Altar (shrouded) with St. Peter’s Tomb below

Catholic tradition holds that the basilica is the burial site of Saint Peter, chief among Jesus’s apostles. His tomb  is directly below the Papal Altar of the basilica or  The Altar of the Confession. For this reason, many popes, cardinals and bishops have been interred at St. Peter’s since the Early Christian period.

St. Peter’s is famous as a place of pilgrimage and liturgy.  The pope presides at a number of liturgies throughout the year both within the basilica or the adjoining  St. Peter’s Square. These events  draw audiences numbering from 15,000 to over 80,000 people . . . almost as large as a Trump Rally!

One of the 44 magnificent Altars adorning the church

The church has 44 altars, 11 domes, 778 columns, 395 statues and 135 mosaics. On the outside, the façade is 50 by 120 yards, that’s the size of a football field, including both end zones. 

Monument to Pope Pius VII, once imprisoned by Napolean

 

Looking back toward the entrance of the Basilica

Indeed the Vatican and St Peter’s are world  treasures, it was an awe inspiring but long day! We would have enjoyed more time to visit the sights, but the ship was departing at 5:00 pm and we didn’t want to miss sail away.

We had to scramble through hordes to exit St Peter’s square, but were able to commandeer a cab with the same technique that I use at Penn Station in New York City. . .  I avoid the queue by grabbing one a block away. 

We were off to the train station, Roma Termini, and caught a great view of the Colosseum on the way. Our overall impression of the city was diminished by the crowds, graffiti and need of an industrial power washer.  At a kiosk in the train station, we bought tickets to Civitavecchia for 9.30€, about $10.  This was a local train that made about 15 stops in the countryside and took 1 hour 25 min to reach the “ancient town” rail station, where we boarded a dedicated shuttle back to the port and our waiting ship.

We enjoyed a cocktail at Good Spirts and observed many new passengers that boarded and heard that many disembarked. The decreasing number of passengers was obvious in the Dining Room as it seemed rather quiet.  We turned in and prepared for our visit to Naples and our Viator trip to the Amalfi Coast and Pompeii.

There will be 8 more European Ports and 13 days before we start our Atlantic Crossing, but first, please wish us a Buon Viaggio a Napoli!

Fair winds and following seas,

Captain Bob