Europe and the Mediterranean II

Ahoy Mates!!

Join us again as we continue our 97 day World Cruise. Come aboard as we log our 4,500 nautical mile circular route around the Mediterranean, before we finally return to Ft. Lauderdale.  There will be a total of 15 European port visits and  today we’ll be sailing from Civitavecchia (Rome) to Naples on our 8th European port visit within 12 days.

4/3/24, Day 75, 58°, partly cloudy 

After traveling 165 nautical miles through the night,  we arrived at the Port of Naples at 7:00 am. Naples  is the third-largest city of Italy after Rome and Milan and has over 3 million residents . It was founded by Greeks in the first millennium BC and is one of the oldest continuously inhabited urban areas in the world.

Naples is known for being the birthplace of pizza, its close proximity to Mount Vesuvius and the ancient ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum, its vibrant street life, rich history, and architecture. Also, it plays a key international role in international diplomacy,  home to NATO’s Allied Joint Force Command Naples.

You can’t help but notice Mount Vesuvius  about 5 miles east of Naples  and a short distance from the shore. It is one of several volcanoes forming the Campanian Volcanic Arc.

The  eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD destroyed the Roman cities of Pompeii, Herculaneum and other settlements. The eruption ejected a cloud of stones, ash and gases to a height of  21 miles  and lasted for 2 days. More than 1,000 people are thought to have died in the eruption, though the exact toll is unknown.

Vesuvius has erupted many times since. It is the only volcano on Europe’s mainland to have erupted in the last hundred years. It is regarded as one of the most dangerous volcanoes in the world because 3 million people live near enough to be affected by an eruption. This is the most densely populated volcanic region in the world.

We had already booked a small group tour with Viator for  full-day shore excursion including a journey along the picturesque Amalfi Coast, free time in hilltop towns of Positano and Sorrento and then a guided tour of  the archeological wonders of ancient Pompeii.

Our guide, Lucca, was personable and extremely knowledgeable. On our drive, we stopped for a photo op along the coastal road for magnificent views.

We continued along the picturesque roads for another hour admiring the sights. On arrival at Positano,  the minivan dropped us off for an hour of free time to explore one of the most picturesque towns on the Amalfi Coast. Walk along characteristic narrow paths, visit artisan ceramic workshops, and try local lemon products and the distinct local style of dress.

We walked down to La Pergola, a beach bar for a cappuccino and spofliatella, my favorite pastry. Spofliatella (sfow·lee·uh·teh·lay) is a shell-shaped pastry with a sweet or creamy filling, originating in the Campania region of Italy. . . Delicious!!!

 

The second stop on the tour was Sorrento; here, the scent of citrus fills the air and grape vines descend to the edge of the sea. Breathtaking views await behind every bend in the road along this spectacular coast.

On arrival at Sorrento, the van dropped us at the city square and we enjoyed  lunch at local restaurant Pizerria Augora; Gnocchi for me and Pizza Margarita for Robin. We then enjoyed a bit of shopping and people watching.

Traveling back towards Naples, we stopped for narrated tour of Pompeii, the most stunning archaeological site on the Italian Peninsula and one of the most visited. It is among the most popular tourist attractions in Italy, with approximately 2.5 million visitors annually.

The ruins of Pompeii are an open air museum where visitors can go back in time and discover a city that had been buried in ashes until 1748. Visitors experience the city much as it existed more than 2,000 years ago.

The Palestra Grande is an athletics field with an impressive portico used both as a training ground for gladiators and as a meeting centre for youth associations, its huge, portico-flanked courtyard includes the remains of a swimming pool.

The ghostly ruins of ancient Pompeii  were buried under a layer of lapilli (burning fragments of pumice stone). The result is a remarkably well-preserved slice of ancient life, where visitors can walk down Roman streets and check out millennia-old houses, temples, shops, cafes, amphitheatres and even a brothel.

It was a wealthy town of 10,000 to 20,000 residents at the time it was destroyed. It featured many fine public buildings and luxurious private houses with lavish decorations, furnishings and artworks.

Organic remains, including wooden objects and human bodies, were interred in the ash; their eventual decay allowed archaeologists to create moulds of figures in their final moments of life. Over 1,000 bodies have been recovered. Actually,  reproductions of the victims made in plaster. 

Pompeii is a UNESCO World Heritage Site  as “the only archaeological site in the world that provides a complete picture of an ancient Roman city”.

We returned to the ship after the hour Amalfi Coast Tour ready to share our experiences with cruise mates over cocktails and dinner.

We noted that the character of the ship and passengers seemed a bit more relaxed and cordial. After all, we are in Italy!

4/4/24, Day 76, 60° sunny (up to 70º)

 

 

We sailed 227 Nautical miles along the west coast of Italy through the Tyrrenian Sea and Strait of Messina until we reached Catania, Sicily.

 

We arrived on time at the dock at 10 am, with a smoking Mount Etna as a backdrop.

Catania is the second-largest municipality in Sicily after Palermo. It has important road and rail transport routes and hosts the main airport in Sicily . The city is located on Sicily’s east coast, facing the  Ionian Sea at the base of the active volcano Mount Etna. The population of the metropolican area of Catania is 1.1 million.

Catania was founded in the 8th century BC by the Greeks and has withstood multiple geologic catastrophes including earthquakes and volcanic eruptions. During the 14th century and into the  Renaissance period, Catania was one of Italy’s most important cultural, artistic and political centers. Today is the industrial, logistical, and commercial centre of Sicily. 

Mount Etna,  is one of the tallest active volcanoes in Europe with a current height of 11,165 ft.  It covers an area of 459 sq. mi. with a basal circumference of 87 miles. This makes it by far the largest of the three active volcanoes in Italy, about two and a half times the height of the next largest, Mount Vesuvius. Only Mount Teide on Tenerife in the Canary Islands  surpasses it in the whole of the European–North-African region west of the Black Sea.

Mount Etna is one of the world’s most active volcanoes and is in an almost constant state of activity. The fertile volcanic soils produced from this activity support extensive agriculture with vineyards and orchards spread across the lower slopes of the mountain.

After our long tour yesterday we decided to do our own special tour a  “YOYO on the HOHO”.

This can be explained as a You’re On Your Own using a Hop On Hop Off  bus.

The Hop ON Hop Off buses are usually equipped with earpieces explaining the sights in several languages.

We travelled mostly along the seaside and  were impressed with the vistas and historical buildings.

The Castello Normanno is situated on a rocky outcrop jutting out into the sea. It was built in 1076 by the Normans upon the foundations of a 7th-century Byzantine  fortification. It was important to the development of the region during the Middle Ages and is now a museum.

 

 

 

 

 

 

What was especially interesting was the juxtaposition of historical buildings and contemporary residences which added interest and a bit of whimsy.

We had the bus drop us in the center of Old Town and we strolled among the shops along the narrow streets. Some of the areas seemed a bit sketchy, so we made our way back to the ship about a mile away.

As was becoming normal, after we boarded the ship we made our way to the Good Spirits lounge for a post tour libation before preparing for dinner and another day at sea. Thank God, a day of rest!

4/5/24,  Day 77, 63° sunny, 3-6’ sea

A glorious day cruising on a moderate sea to catch up on blog research, trade options and relax by the indoor solarium Pool with a “dirty banana”.

 

4/6/24, Day 78, 70° sunny

 

We arrived at Piraeus at 7:00 am. It is  is  the chief port in Greece, the 5th largest passenger port in Europe and among the ten busiest in container traffic. Our travels today would take us to Athens about 10 miles from the Port.

Athens is the capital and largest city of Greece. With its urban area’s population numbering over three and a quarter million, it is the eighth largest in the European Union.

Athens is one of the world’s oldest cities, with its history spanning over 3,400 years. It was one of the most powerful city-states in ancient Greece and a center for democracy, the arts, education and philosophy. It is often regarded as the Cradle of Western Civilization and the birthplace of democracy.

We didn’t want to brave sharp elbows on the ship tours so we decided to “YOYO on the HOHO” (Your on Your Own on the Hop On Hop Off bus). We haven’t seen the Acropolis since our Honeymoon in 1992, so we decided to return.

 

 

The Acropolis of Athens is an ancient citadel located on a rocky outcrop above the city of Athens  Greece, and contains the remains of several ancient buildings of great architectural and historical significance, the most famous being the Parthenon. 

The Acropolis is dedicated to the city’s patron goddess, Athena. Its existing buildings were primarily constructed in the second half of the 5th century BC and remains the most striking and complete ancient Greek monumental complex still existing in our times.

As we walked toward the impressive structure, the lines of tourists to gain access to the structure itself were daunting and the prospect of another steep climb was not in the cards for this retired triathelete. So we made our way back to the ship and through the city via the HOHO.

On our way back, we noted that the city had a preponderance of porn shops and graffiti. What’s that all about? Anyway, we stopped at Good Spirits on the Ship to sip a Margarita before relaxing at the Lotus Pool to enjoy peace and quiet with the touristas still in the city.

4/7/24, Day 79, 67°, partly cloudy

We travelled the 95 nautical miles slowly through the night and arrived at Mykonos at 7:00 am. Mykonos Town (Chora) is the capital of Ios Island and the quaint town is as striking as advertised.

There were plenty of tours available, but we elected a half-day, small group tour through Viator. The Cyclades Islands tour started with meeting Stephanie a bubbly, knowledgeable hellenic beauty who escorted us on our tour.

The Cyclades Islands tour started with lighthouse and views of the most famous island group in the Aegean Sea, which are some of the most beautiful islands in the world! Gorgeous sandy beaches, architecture in white and blue, traditional lifestyle, folk music, warm, hospitable people and barren landscapes with isolated chapels turn a trip to the Cyclades into a lifetime experience.

The Artenistis lighthouse is one of the iconic sights of Mykonos island. It afforded great views of the main town as well as many of the Cyclades Islands.  

We then traveled to the Ano Mera tourist spot , Kalifades Beach and then the Center of town to enjoy walking tour of Mykonos Town,  the Mykonos Windmills, Little Venice and a 15th-century Church

 

 

The Mykonos windmills are an iconic feature of Mykonos.  There are currently 16 windmills on Mykonos of which seven are positioned on the landmark hill in Chora. Most of them were built by the Venetians in the 16th century, but their construction continued into the early 20th century. They were primarily used to mill wheat.  Years ago they were an important source of income for the inhabitants.

Little Venice is one of the most romantic places in Mykonos. The neighborhood with elegant and gorgeous old houses built on the edge of the sea. This specific neighborhood is filled with buildings that wealthy Venetian merchants constructed back in the day. 

After the tour of Chora we retraced our steps and did some shopping. What a lovely town and the weather was perfect! We then boarded the Sea Bus for the 10 minute ride to the New Port and our waiting ship.

Again, we enjoyed our post-tour cocktail, before preparing to tomorrow’s adventure in Turkey. A new destination for both of us.

4/8/24, Day 80, 58°, sunny

Only about 100 nautical miles east of Myknonos across the Aegean Sea, we arrived at Kusadasi,  Turkey which is actually in Southwestern Asia.

Kuşadası  is a municipality and resort town of  Turkey with a  population of about 130,000. The primary industry is tourism.  The Republic of Türkiye is the official name of the country . . .  good thing I didn’t have to spell that one at the St Helena’s spelling bee in the 6th Grade!

The name Kuşadası comes from the Turkish words kuş (bird) and ada (island), as it has the shape of a bird’s head when seen from the sea. The area has been a centre of art and culture since some of the earliest recorded history, and has been settled by many civilizations since 3,000 BC.  Kusadasi caters to tourists heading to Ephesus.

The St. John Basilica, Ephesus, and Virgin Mary House tour is a unique and fascinating tour that combines history, religion, and natural beauty. Vulcan, our incredible guide, was  a walking encyclopedia and spoke with great respect for his country and its long history. Turkey now has 85 million people, but the original Turks are were Asians, and Mongols with a Muslim majority population.

We soon visited, the House of Virgin Mary located on the Aladag Mountains about 5 miles from Ephesus.  It was claimed that Mary came to Ephesus with St. John in 37 A.D. and lived there until her death in 48 A.D.

 

The house and Shrine of the Virgin Mary exuded a peaceful and serene atmosphere. We felt the serenity inside the  Virgin Mary’s House, where it is believed that she had spent her final years.

 

 

After enjoying a coffee at the base cafe, we travelled the countryside a few short miles to the entrance of Ephesus.

 

Ephesus  was a city in ancient Greece on the coast of Ionia, which is now southwest Turkey. It was built in the 10th century BC by  Greek colonists, but then controlled by the Romans in 130 BC. According to tradition, John took the Mother Mary and came to Ephesus. He also wrote his Gospel here. 

We entered the arched Magnesian Gate at Ephesus and began a slow, downhill walk to the ruins of the Roman provincial capital. Vulcan then highlighted pivotal sights like the Temple of Hadrian,  the Odeon Theater, the beautiful Library of Celsus and the dramatic Great Theater holding 24,000 spectators.

 

 We then visited  the impressive ruins of the Byzantine Church of St John which mark the spot where St John the Evangelist was buried. This church was built over the tomb of St. John. 

The main gate, called “Gate of Persecution” in the south has remained to be the most intact entrance among the entrances.  

Walking among the ruins of the Basilica of St. John, you get a sense of the structure’s former grandeur. It was built over the tomb of St. John, where frescos and mosaics still remain and graceful columns give evidence of its splendid past. Frescos can be dated later than 8th century AD

 

The port shops had more vendors than I think I’ve ever seen in a port and the locals were engaging and aggressive salesman.  We had fun and managed to come away with a few purchases.

 

 

Back on the ship we regaled the group in the Reserve Dining Room with our tour and shopping adventure and probably laughed a bit too loud for the old folks.

4/9/24 Day 81, 62°, partly sunny

We travelled southwest 193 nautical miles through a calm sea from Kusadasi in the Aegean Sea to arrive at the Heraklion Port in Crete at 7:00 am.

Heraklion  is the largest city and the capital of the island of Crete. It is the fourth largest city in Greece with a municipal population 215,000 in its metro area. The area of Heraklion has been continuously inhabited since at least 7000 BC, making it one of the oldest inhabited regions in Europe.

We decided to embark on an E-bike adventure along the coast and through the city.  After boarding a Port shuttle to the cab waiting area we met our driver Bobis, who delivered us to EcoBike tours on a narrow, hidden street about 10 minutes away.

We were fitted for  helmets and received brief instruction for our group of four women and myself. Our young female guide was extremely patient with two of the ladies that had a hard time staying on the bike, one even falling over in the parking lot. It was a trying time but, you know me . . .I don’t complain!

After riding mostly on bike paths we ventured into the city, where two of the ladies almost crashed into store fronts. We thought it best to dismount, tour a church or two and walk the town.

After walking the shopping area we returned on our bikes to bikes to the shop and had lunch at a nearby tavern. We  enjoyed some tasty local treats al fresco and after some local wine,  I suggested to these ladies that they should never ride a bike again!

We were happy to see Bobis. He picked us up at the tavern and took us back to port entrance where we boarded the Port Shuttle. After boarding the ship, I made a B-line to  Good Spirts for a Margarita to aid in decompression.

 After a 3 hour nap, we settled on Room Service for dinner using the Princess Medallion App. We would then begin our three and a half day, 1,500 nautical mile sail to Gibraltar.

4/10/24, Day 82, 64°, sunny

We enjoyed a welcomed day at sea after our 13 port visits over the past 17 days. We filled our day with a bit of exercise walking the Promenade deck with a slight ship roll in the moderate 4 to 8 foot seas.

After breakfast, we joined the enrichment lecture with  Jessica Potter then did a bit of blog research and trading, followed by a cocktail at Crooners before enjoying a magnificent creation by our restaurant manager Mario Toledo.

4/11/24, Day 83, 59°, calm to moderate with 4-6’ sea

We woke realizing  that we only have two weeks remaining on our journey. Somehow, we couldn’t imagine returning to our usual daily routines on a stable land mass with a house and property to maintain. Maintenance free . . . Yeah, right!

After Coffee and pastry at Good Spirts we checked our position in the Mediterranean as we watched the world go by.

We took the time to again take advantage of the Enrichment lecture by Jessica. This time we learned about the Malaga tour coming up in a few days. It will be our last stop in the Med after Gibraltar, before we transit the Atlantic. With the options available, we decided to go on our own (YOYO). I was able to procure tickets for a Flamenco Show, not something you see every day.

We visited Future Cruises and booked a two week Caribbean Trip over the Christmas and New Year’s Holiday.  Princess provided  the trip gratis, due to the prior itinerary change and the amount of credit allowed upgrade to a Suite. Fantastic . . . We’ll do the Valley of The Kings as soon as the Middle East calms down.

After dinner, as usual, it was never a dull moment as the “Gods and Goddesses” party got started with music and creative costumes.

Back to our room, we were getting excited about celebrating our Anniversary, 32 years after our Honeymoon Cruise with a Princess Cruise in the Mediterranean.

4/12/23, Day 84,  60°, calm to moderate sea

Today, of course, was a special day for us, but it was quite a surprise that all of the message boards around the ship scrolled a “Happy Anniversary” message as well!

After a light breakfast, knowing that unimaginable gastronomic delights awaited us later, we attended Jessica’s lecture. The subject was Madeira, situated in the North Atlantic Ocean,  500 mi southwest of mainland Portugal. It will be our first stop in the North Atlantic on the return to Bermuda and Ft. Lauderdale. Enough with the planning. . . 

It was time to enjoy lunch at Sabatini’s Specialty Restaurant for a “Wines of the World” special event.  Here you will enjoy special gourmet dishes prepared by the Executive Chef paired with a sampling of select fine wines.

Our last such event was indescribably delicious and one surpassed even that. In addition, we received very special treatment and seating by Daniele Rosafio, Director of Restaurant Operations and Nageswar Dinand, Executive Chef.

The service started and with each course, a complete description of the wine chosen and the Chef’s creation that accompanied it were presented.

The Gourmet dishes were complemented perfectly with the wines selected. The lunch was simply ORGASMIC!

After taking the day to digest our over the top lunch, we enjoyed  dinner in the Reserve Dining Room with Robin’s clients and friends.

Mario and Staff prepared  special deserts along with a cake for the occasion.

Jonel stole the show with his rendition of “Let me call you Sweetheart” and left us with an indelible memory of our special day.

4/13/14, Day 85, 65°, windy

We arrived at the port of Gibraltar, British Overseas Territory at 7:00 am after sailing  3.5 days and 1,500 nautical miles from Crete, Greece.

 

Gibraltar is a British Overseas Territory and city located at the southern tip of the Iberian Peninsula near the exit of the Mediterranean Sea into the Atlantic Ocean. The Strait of Magellan is considered to be one of the busiest and most crowded waterways in the world and has a direct impact on global trade. The landscape is dominated by the Rock of Gibraltar, at the foot of which is a densely populated town area, home to some 34,000 people, primarily natives of Gibraltar. Who knew?

The desirable Ship excursions were booked, so we used a local company Calypso tours. We had a group of only 20 on a minibus and our native guide Robert provided excellent commentary and access to the sights. Robert is a true Gibraltar patriot totally against ceding the rock to Spain.

From the Harding’s Battery on Europa Point to a labyrinth of tunnels below the surface, there are several attractions for history buffs. These tunnels were built during the American Revolutionary War by the British through a rock almost 200 millions years old. There were also actively used during World War II.

Robert led us through the labyrinth of tunnels revealing several lookout points and larger hewn out areas filled with artillery batteries.

The visit to St. Michael’s Cave was spectacular. It is a network of limestone caves at a height of over 980 feet above sea level. It is the most visited of the more than 150 caves found inside the Rock receiving almost 1,000,000 visitors a year. The cave was used as a venue for picnics, parties, concerts, weddings and even duels.

 

The largest of the chambers, named the Cathedral Cave, currently serves as an auditorium. It was converted due to the chamber’s natural acoustic properties. It is equipped with a concrete stage and has a seating capacity of over 100. It has been a regular venue for events such as dramas and concerts from opera to rock.

It was time to visit the infamous Barbary apes. Numbering 300, they are actually Macaques and  the only wild monkeys in Europe.

The monkeys are a hit with tourists, but not me. I skeeve monkeys of all kinds. They like to pose, eat and chase each other while screeching loudly. They can get aggressive,  actually one of our cruise-mates was bitten. Even worse, the ones from the lower part of the rock are known for grabbing i-phones out out your hand.

We continued our tour with a drive by in the Spanish sector and then returned to the city of Gibraltar via the major road that cross the Gibraltar Airport Runway.

Gibraltar International Airport is considered the only airport where a major road, Winston Churchill Avenue, directly crosses the runway. We had to stop while a plane landed. Fortunately, they completed a tunnel in 2023 for vehicular traffic, but mass transit, pedestrians and small vehicles still use the roadway.

We were dropped off downtown at Grand Casemates Gates and it still was a bit windy and chilly.
Many recommended  lunch at Roy’s Fish and Chips in the Main Plaza. We ran into friends David and Pattie who were on a different tour but had the same idea.

We made our way back to the ship via taxi and headed to the Lotus pool for a 24 karat Margarita and a view of the harbor and a nap, followed by a simple dinner from room service.

4/14/24 Day 86, 65°, sunny 6 mph wind

Just 130 nautical miles north of Gibraltar we arrived at The Port of Málaga, an international seaport in southern Spain that’s one of the oldest in the Mediterranean. The port  access to the city’s beaches, art galleries, and historic center.

We decided to tour on our own using the Hop On, Hop off bus featuring a great tour of the city and surrounding areas like Malagueta and Mount Gibralfaro, then back to the Centro (Old Town).

 

We then headed for the hills above the city and got a glimpse of the Castle of Gibralfaro on the mountain of the same name. Mount Gibralfaro has been the site of fortifications since the founding of Málaga by the Phoenicians around 770 BC. 

The Alcazaba  is a palatial fortification, built during the period of Muslim-rule.  The current complex was begun in the 11th century and was modified or rebuilt multiple times up to the 14th century. The Alcazaba is also connected by a walled corridor to the higher Castle of Gibralfaro. 

Alcazaba fortification built and/or modified in the 11th to 14th Centuries

We meandered back to the old city or Centro where we walked through history in a beautiful, clean and vibrant city.

It was an absolutely beautiful day, sunny and 72º and as we continued our walk we came across the very impressive Roman Catholic Cathedral of Málaga. It was constructed between 1528 and 1782 in renaissance style. Gorgeous!

As I mentioned, I was able to procure tickets to a Flamenco Show in the Interactive Music Museum. Before we found our seats we enjoyed a panini and a cerveza at a chic street cafe.

We had a short walk  to the Interactive Music Museum for the scheduled flamenco show. It was located in a very interesting museum displaying all kinds of musical instruments, but also allowed one to try their hand at creating something other than just noise.

 

 

 

 

 

The Flamenco Show with the classic guitar was  energetic and unforgettable. The dancing itself with its volume and speed was determined, loud and nearly frantic . .  it scared the hell out of me. Let’s put it this way, I wouldn’t want to be in an argument with that woman!

Our walk back to the bus stop took us past the beautiful City Hall constructed in 1919. Malaga delighted us in many ways, we’ll be sure to return and spend more time here and in the surrounding cities of Marabella and Granada.

We boarded the HOHO back to the Island Princess waiting to take us across the Atlantic Ocean.

After cocktails at Crooners, we had dinner with Pattie and David, but I excused myself as I ran up to the Promenade deck to get a final look at Gibraltar before we passed through the Strait and entered the Atlantic Ocean.

Emotions for me were mixed. I was looking forward to the Atlantic crossing, but was slightly downhearted realizing that our dream trip would come to an end in 11 days.

Wish us fair winds and following seas.