Fourth of July in the Exumas

Happy Independence Day Shipmates!

We’ve spent the last nine days cruising through the Exumas visiting several of the wonderful anchorages in an area of the Central Bahamas that have been described as the most exquisite cruising ground in the western hemisphere. No wonder, the waters surrounding the over 300 plus islands are crystalline with vivid colors of teal and aquamarine that are beyond description.

Allens Cay, Exumas 40 Miles SE of Nassau

Our first stop was at Allen’s Cay with it’s lovely protected anchorage and home to one of the largest populations of iguanas in the Bahamas. It’s also home to seabirds and varied marine life. We spent some time visiting the friendly reptiles and lazing on the beach.

After a short walking tour of neighboring Leaf Cay we returned to SABA and prepared to move on to Shroud Cay which is known for its mangrove creeks.

Shroud Cay, 45 miles SE of Nassau

We awoke to discover our first catastrophe, one of our refrigerator units stopped working… what, no cold Corona….no way! I got to work removing the unit from the cabinetry and disassembled the unit. One of the electrical connections shorted out, so after some minor surgery and a new connector we were back in business!

We motored to a protected site with only two other boats enjoying the view, went for a swim and then prepared for our dinghy adventure through the 2 plus mile mangrove creek  that would put us at the entrance of the Exuma Sound.

Driftwood Beach is truly one of the most exquisite and serene beaches I have experienced. A hike to the top of the hill gives spectacular views and that location was used in the 80’s by federal agents to observe drug operations on neighboring Norman Island.

Warderick Wells, Exumas Land and Sea Park, 70 miles SE of Nassau

The Exumas Land and Sea Park was established in 1958 as a land and marine protected area. The 176 mile area includes 15 large islands and several small ones and is 22 miles long and over 4 miles wide. We called the Park Headquarters on Channel 9 and got our mooring assignment. After we picked up the mooring pennant and tied on, we were invited to a neighboring motor yacht for cocktails. There we met Ed and Christina, owners of the yacht, as well as, Monica and Constantine who were volunteering as Park Wardens. They were very colorful people. We appreciated the helpful suggestions with park attractions we should enjoy.

In addition to the snorkeling in nearby areas, we enjoyed walking the beach and chatting with Monica and Constantine. They are now Canadian citizens by way of Romania and have great tales to tell. We were able to share a few of our supplies with the Land and Sea Park as they are in need of the most basic items like paper, envelopes, trash bags, cleaning supplies etc.

Big Major’s Spot, near Staniel Cay, 80 miles SE of Nassau

After enjoying the Park for two days and with near perfect weather all week we headed farther south to one of everyone’s favorite spots…Big Major’s Spot!  Why? The Swimming Pigs, of course!!

 

How can you not have a smile on your face when watching these porcine puppies? They have organized a feeding station since we were last year to avoid a feeding frenzy. Robin got stomped by an eager piglet in the past and still has the scar to prove it! As you can see she has forgiven the little devil.

Little Farmers Cay, 96 miles SE of Nassau

Having not had the pleasure of air conditioning for a week it was time for a marina to plug in, cool down and top off the water tank. We tied up at the Farmers Cay Yacht Club owned by Roosevelt Nixon. He is a direct descendant of Chrissana, a freed slave from Great Exuma. She bought the island from the English Crown and willed it to her descendants many of whom still live there. The marina and restaurant were modest, but Roosevelt and his wife Shirley were cordial, pleasant and excellent hosts. This was another evening where Robin and I enjoyed a lovely and delicious dinner in a very casual surrounding.

The next day, after a few electrical power interruptions, not uncommon in the Bahamas we ambled into the town of Little Harbour and checked out the green turtles swimming in the shallows. After some investigation, we found out  that the Ocean Cabin served superb seafood for lunch so we knocked on the door before the official opening time. The proprietor, Terry, told us to go away, his wife yelled at him and told him to let us come in. Ernestine and Terry proved to be affable and the lunch was as promised. These two are like most on the island, friendly, welcoming and charming.

Well we’re off to Staniel Cay to watch the fireworks display, which a couple of years ago were outstanding. I’m firing up the grill now, living like a pauper amidst these Mega yachts at Big Major’s.

Have a great Celebration!!

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Fair winds and following seas,

Captain Bobby and The Admiral