SABA in the Hub of Abaco

Sleep while at a mooring comes quickly and soundly in our aft cabin on the custom memory foam mattress. It’s like a gentle rocking in a cozy cradle, but here in Settlement Harbour in Guana Cay , the wave slap against the  transom due to swell from the Sea of Abaco jarred our comfy cabin and prompted the Admiral to sleep midships. That, with the faint smell of diesel emanating from one of the Yachts at the adjacent Orchid Bay Marina, in addition to the abbreviated fireworks last night that would have made Francis Scott Key fall off of a rampart, we departed for our next destination. Time to explore the Hub of Abaco.

The Hub of Abaco includes Man-O-Way Cay, Elbow Cay and others, as well as, the main settlement of Marsh Harbour on Great Abaco Island. It is a cruising ground frequented by visiting yachties and the home of many sailing charter companies. Man-O-War Cay is only 8 miles distant from Great Guana, no need for and early start. Besides, we needed to wait for a rising tide to enter the shallow and narrow entrance channel. Robin took the helm at 0945 as I dropped the mooring lines.

MAN-O-WAR CAY

Robin set our course and piloted the boat to the channel and then allowed me the honor of possibly coming to grief navigating the entrance at Man-O-War. Planning for tide, depth and current made for a smooth passage and after just a few more minutes we picked up a mooring just off of the namesake marina.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Man-O-Way has a rich history of boat building and repair, a few studios and unique gift shops. Two small groceries and a waterside restaurant are also available. MOW Is quaint, small, quiet , friendly and peaceful.

 

 

 

I outfitted the dinghy with the outboard and we taxied over to the dinghy dock at the marina.

 

There are only 300 residents on the Cay, but we only saw about 10 as we ambled through the small town. We chatted up a few locals as we enjoyed a frozen treat at the modest grocery store. All folks we encountered were friendly, pleasant and helpful.

 

We climbed back into the dinghy and explored the Eastern Harbor hurricane hole. Apparently, many boats are left here for the season. We toured both harbors by dinghy and were impressed by the tranquility and also by three visiting green turtles feeding just off our port beam. We enjoyed a dinner on board and a quiet evening with no wave slap.

 

 

 

MARSH HARBOUR

After breakfast on board while we waited for a rising tide, we stowed our windscoops and cockpit shades, slipped our mooring lines and headed for Marsh Harbour. On the short passage we glimpsed several sailboats leaving the Harbour preparing for the Regatta start at 1100. We motored through the anchorage and made our way to the Harbor View Marina with its central location in the marina district adjacent to many restaurants and shops. Before tying up at our assigned slip, we topped up our diesel at the fuel dock. Opening the fuel fill I watched in disbelief as the stainless fuel filler cap went straight overboard. After fueling, I went for a swim and retrieved the cap in 8 feet of water. Refreshing… and I saved 50 bucks!

Marsh Harbour is the largest town in Abaco and the third largest in the Bahamas with a population of 6,000. It is exceeded only by Nassau and Freeport. This is not a booming metropolis, there is only one traffic light, but it is known for good restaurants a variety of services and the largest supermarket in all of the Bahamas. We used it as our hub for traveling to neighboring islands and harbors.

 

It is pedestrian friendly in the Marina district, but you’ll need a cab for other destinations, like the grocery or ferry dock. No need to wave a cab down just call them on VHF channel 06 and they will be there pronto. Drivers were courteous and friendly with almost UBER vehicles

 

 

 

We treated ourselves to lunch at Wally’s, a wonderful restaurant just across the street from the Marina. This is probably the finest the finest Conch Burger served anywhere. Tasty, tender, lightly battered and served on a fresh Bahamian bun with fresh garnish… it was magnificent! Robin was now  fueled for shopping and she poked into every shop within reasonable walking distance. Like the food the items they were very good, but not cheap.

 

 

 

 

LITTLE HARBOR

Little Harbor is about 35 to 40 serpentine nautical miles traveling by water since there are numerous shoals to avoid. In addition, parts of the entrance channel carry only 3.5 feet at mean low water, so we decided to avoid waiting for tides to enter and exit by renting a car and traveling on the highway. We walked to Rental Wheels, LTD and picked up a not too ancient Buick Lucerne. It  had a myriad of dents and dings so that the metal skin had the texture of a raisin and bad shocks to boot, but you know me… I don’t complain.

We drove the 25 miles to Little Harbor over a wide well-paved highway , but the last two miles or so were on a washboard dirt road. Emerging from the forested roadway we saw the lovely, small, but fully protected anchorage and drove the final approach on the sandy path just a few yards from the water’s edge.

An art colony was established here in the 1950s and a gallery featuring life size marine bronzes and jewelry is open every day. After I engaged in some intense browsing, Robin nixed the purchase of a bronze hammerhead for $17,500 that caught my eye. Too bad, it would have really pissed off the Home Owners Association when I put it in my front yard.

 

 

We then made our way to Pete’s Pub, an open air bar on the beach. No need to bring your dress flip flops. Truthfully, we expected something a bit more civilized so we just enjoyed our drink and did some people watching.  I didn’t want to chance sharing ribs and chicken with the local winged insects, but you know me….I don’t complain.

 

 

We returned to Marsh Harbour, did some errands and visited Maxwell’s supermarket….huge.  It has just about anything you could desire in the food category. Chocolate Lactaid milk?…never saw it before and fresh guava if you like not to mention pig’s feet for the goyem.

 

 

 

 

HOPETOWN, ELBOW CAY

Albury’s Ferry runs a convenient, dependable service to many of the neighboring Cays. We thought it a great idea to hop the ferry for the 20 minute trip to Hopetown on Elbow Cay. Hopetown was founded in 1785 by Loyalists escaping the American Revolution. It is one of the most picturesque settlements in the Bahamas unmistakable with its candy striped lighthouse.

The busy harbor is surrounded by a charming town comprised of lovely restored old houses situated on narrow streets with no motorized traffic except for service vehicles.

The ocean beach to the east has powdery pink sand and is protected by an offshore reef. We strolled in the early morning sun along the pathways and visited shops and the beach. The Wyannie Malone Historical Museum gave great insights as to the history of Hopetown.

After a conchburger at the Harbour’s Edge Restaurant, which was good, but no match for Wally’s, we continued our exploring.

 

No visit to Hopetown would be complete without a visit to the Lighthouse. We took a water taxi across the harbor and then traveled a narrow curving path leading to a large working boatyard which led to another path along the waterfront and yet another up to the Lighthouse. There were many nice folks along the way giving us directions cheerfully and without hesitation; none of them accurate, but you know me….

The Elbow Reef Lighthouse is 120 feet tall, but the trip up the narrow spiral staircase was easier than it sounds. There were landings on the way up that provided rest and a welcomed breeze through the arched windows. The lighthouse was erected 1864 built to keep vessels from grounding on Elbow Reef. It operates even today with a kerosene fueled mantle and huge rotating Fresnel lens seen for 20 miles. It is the last lighthouse of its kind in the world.

On the ferry ride back to Marsh Harbour I joined the other 20 dozing travelers with a head bob or two. After  a shower and donning my dress flops we enjoyed dinner at Curly Tails, one of the local favorites for fine dining. We walked the 50 yards back to the Harbor View Marina and planned our Saturday to get prepared for our trip back to the U.S. The weather looks good for a Sunday departure.

Fair winds and following seas,

Captain Bobby