Abacos, Bahamas, Africa, South Africa, World Cruise 2024

On To Africa

We sailed away from Freemantle/Perth with a longing to return once more to the Great  Southern Land of Australia, but with great anticipation toward our next destination.

 Indian Ocean, leaving Perth heading west to Africa

Africa  is nick-named the “Mother Continent”,  since it is he oldest inhabited continent on earth and is home to 54 countries, more than any other continent on earth.

 

 

Western Australia to Mauritius, Africa

The time was filled with lazy days, punctuated with wonderful food and service, new found friends, great entertainment, special events, cruise surprises and glorious relaxation and gaining four hours by setting the clock back every couple of days.

Reserve Dining: Bob Di, Libby, Pattie, David, Bob, Robin

Heavenly Chocolate desserts!
Production Cast and Band were spectacular!

The entertainment included a tribute to Franki Valli and the Four Seasons which brought me back to the night I first saw them perform on Steel Pier in Atlantic City, New Jersey in 1963. Oh, “What a Night!”

 

The Royal Butler, Grant Harrold

Princess aimed to please with a variety of novel Enrichment Presentations including a series of informative events from Grant Harrold, the Royal Butler to King Charles. Grant also conducted special sessions on social graces, proper decorum at tea, including proper napkin placement and use, as well as, the polite way to stir your hot beverage. 

Leo Rossi, Rock & Roll Tour Manager

The cruisers, including myself, especially enjoyed presentations by Leo Rossi the former rock ‘n’ roll tour manager, who’s worked with such legendary bands as The Who, The Beach Boys, Led Zeppelin, Deep Purple, ELO, Billy Idol, and most notably Fleetwood Mac. Over several days Leo regaled us with exclusive stories and photos from Rossi’s life on the road as he was living out his own rock ‘n’ roll fantasy.

The next day, Day 39, brought 8 to 10 feet seas, the most active  yet, but still comfortable. It certainly did not curtail any of the ship’s activities.

The afternoon wine tasting event was delightful and included special pairings of 5 chosen wines and canapés .

Wine Pairing Event

It featured carefully selected vintages with delectable complimentary bites. Basically, it was a cultured and informative event to allow afternoon intoxication, as I said. . .delightful!

Space Debris!! What next?

Early that evening came a surprise, the Captain elected to inform us via special notice, the slight possibility of encountering Space Debris from two decommissioned satellites.

Projected space debris encounter

At least it wasn’t the Houthis this time! It turned out to be no problem at all and we sailed on with no problem.

I believe it was on Day 40 that I got an anxious feeling that the trip was going to end before I was ready to leave it. We have settled into the cruising routine and really enjoying it. Only 57 days to go!

We continued to enjoy the ship and were delighted with the daily pool towel whimsy of the Deck Staff at the Lido Pool:

Sunrise approaching Mauritius

On Day 42, we arrived at Mauritius at 7:am. We prepared for our excursion in the 82º, sunny conditions.

Mauritius is an island country in the Indian Ocean about (1,100 nautical miles) off the southeastern coast of East Africa, east of Madagascar. It includes the main island (also called Mauritius),and three other islands. Along with nearby Réunion, they are part of the Mascarene Islands.

Port Louis, Mauritius from the Dock

The main island of Mauritius (population 1.3 million) spans 790 sq. mi which is  smaller than the smallest state of the US, Rhode Island (1200 sq. miles). Port Louis with 150,000 is  the capital and largest city.

As we disembarked, we were greeted by local performers who lifted our spirits as we began our tour with a scenic drive through Port Louis, past sugarcane fields en route to one of the island’s most popular destination, Sugar World.

Sugar World

This former sugar factory turned museum gives the history 0f the island island and details the process of sugar manufacturing.

The essential sugar by-product. . . Rum!

The weather was magnificent as the temperature climbed and the allowed for a wonderful tour of the nearby Pamplemousses Botanical Gardens. Encompassing 92 acres and first established in 1767 it is the oldest Botanical Garden in the Southern Hemisphere.

Pamplemousses Botanical

 

 

Exiting the Gardens ,we drove up steep narrow streets with densely packed housing to reach the Citadel.

La Citadel or Fort Adelaide  offered wonderful views of the city, harbor and dormant volcanos.

View of Port Louis

On the way back to the ship we fought traffic to view government buildings, houses of worship and other points of interest. Finally on our way back to the ship we encountered a welcome sight. . . Super Mario!!

Super Mario Fernandes

Back on board, we departed Mauritius and began our next leg of the trip encompassing  5.5 sea days and  2,300 nautical miles until we reached Cape Town, South Africa.

Mauritius to Capetown

We settled into the Sea Day routine and in addition to the usual enjoyment of  the ship’s amenities, I took advantage of an iphoto class that was led by one our cruise mates, Dennis Baker. His background as a gifted  teacher and a professional photographer were evident as he helped us all understand the power and nuances of the incredible mobile device we that we hold in our hands. Thank you Dennis.

Dennis Baker, Photographer Extraordinaire

As Princess often does, they included a special show with gifted entertainers such as Dan Middleditch. Many of us have seen “Elvis” shows before, but few can match Dan’s high energy performance.

A Tribute to Elvis – Dan Middleditch

As we made our way in the Indian Ocean in what seemed like an endless empty sea, I pulled up a Marine Traffic App. Here it’s plain to see that with over 50,000 to 60,000 merchant vessels and ocean going passenger ships, you are not alone . . . amazing!

Island Princess position east of Madagascar

Filling our days with Enrichment Lectures, Bobamala research and relaxation, I continued to trade Equity Options. As we traveled westward, it was becoming easier to trade since I no longer had to get up in the middle of the night for the Stock Market open at Eastern Standard Time.

Moderate to Heavy Sea . . . that is sea spray up to Deck 9

After we rounded Madagascar, the sea picked up to the heaviest yet at about 12 to 15′. Some noticed the enhanced movement, others took it in stride. As Spike Milligan, comedian and writer said, “The best cure for Sea Sickness is to sit under a tree.”

The Production Staff, with their talented dancers and incomparable band, displayed their talents with an evening of “Latin Rhythms” displaying high energy and provocative dancing.

Showing support for the Production Team

We arrived at Cape Town on  Day 48  where it was 66º and overcast. Regarded as one of the world’s most beautiful cities, Cape Town offers museums, lush parks and international shopping. It’s famous for its towering mountains, magnificent beaches, award winning wineries and impressive sea life including Great White Sharks, Whales, Cape Fur Seals and African Penguins.

Cape Town, view from Table Mountain

Table Mountain is synonymous with Cape Town and is one of the most iconic mountains on earth.

Table Top Mountain covered with a Table Cloth

We met Nabil, our tour guide, who would escort us via  Motorcoach for the 3 hour jaunt with 80 of our closest friends to the Aquila Game Reserve, home to the Big Five .

Striking Landscape and award winning vineyards northwest of Cape Town on the way to Aquila

This Reserve is ideal for those who want to see African wildlife without venturing too far from Cape Town. Once there, we enjoyed a buffet and time to relax and enjoy the grounds before embarking on our game drive.

 

Aquila Game Reserve

Our Guide “IQoQodo” drove and led us on our 1.5 hr game drive with David, Pattie, Don and Gail.

IQoQodo

We travelled the dusty roads and riverbeds experiencing some bone crushing moments which brought back memories of a similar excursion in Sanbona last year. It didn’t take long for encounters with all types of animals.

A curious Black Rhino

Our search for  giraffes, rhinos, zebras, lions, hippos, elan and elephants were met with resounding success.

Elan

 

Swimming Hippo

 

The Lion Sleeps

So with a feeling of accomplishment after a long, dusty, but beautiful day, we said thanked Aquila for an unforgettable experience.

Black Rhino sculpture, Aquila

The Island Princess spent the night at the Dock in the center of Cape Town, just adjacent to the Victoria and Albert Waterfront. The V & A Waterfront is South Africa’s most popular shopping destination.

Robin at the V & A . . . Heaven!

It boasts over 450 retail outlets selling everything from fashion, homeware and curios, jewelry, leather goods and audio visual equipment.

Restaurants, museums, boat trips, helicopter rides and all types of activities can be enjoyed. We spent a few days here last year at the nearby Table Bay Hotel and loved it.

Table Bay Hotel

We strolled for a couple of hours around the waterfront enjoying the weather, the sights and the shops.

Cape Town Clock Tower

 

Dutch Colonial Buildings

 

The African Trading Post was jammed with souvenir shoppers.

And just like that, it was time to return to the ship and enjoy cocktails and dinner before heading off to our next port of call on the west coast of Africa . . . Namibia.

More Reserve Class Service with Super Mario, Tyrone and Mario.

We’ll see you soon at our next ports of Walvis Bay, Namibia, Mindelo in Cabo Verde, Santa Cruz de Tenerife, Arrecife in Lanzarote and Agadir, Morocco. 

Fair winds and following seas,

Captain Bob

 

 

 

Abacos, Bahamas, Great Bahama Bank

The Abacos to Cat Cay

Ahoy Mates!

After our stay in Treasure Cay it was off to Marsh Harbour, considered the main stop in the Hub of the Abacos. There are a myriad of shops, restaurants and services there, as well as, and international airport. We were able to sail most of the 17 miles to the Harbor View Marina, right in the center of restaurant district. Perfect for fresh fish dishes and a fabulous Conch Burger.

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Marsh Harbour Anchorage

We spent four days at the Marina using it as our home base for some touring. We sampled many of the restaurants including Jamie’s, a local spot with great food and friendly service, Wally’s with a more formal atmosphere and superb dishes and Mangoes for fantastic fresh fish, prepared with local flair. They were all excellent!

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Wally’s Restaurant is Wonderful!!

One of the truly wonderful things about cruising, is the interesting people that you meet. We were privledged to spend time and share dinner with Dr. Randy and Linda. He is a recently retired ER physician who along with his wife, Linda  a former nurse are starting a new life aboard their Absolute 60, a magnificent power yacht with a grand interior. We wish them all the best and hope for an invitation to join them on that floating palace! Hint, hint…

While in the Abacos I took the opportunity to schedule a dive trip with Dive Abaco for a two tank dive at the Fowl Cay Preserve about 5 miles east. I packed up my gear and walked only a block to the dive shop.

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Schlepping like a Sherpa!

After a half hour ride in a seaworthy dive boat, we arrived at the site on the ocean side of Fowl Cay. After squeezing into my wetsuit, gear and camera please note the back roll with ballerina-like entry!

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Orthotic Fins, a perfect cure for Plantar Fascitis!
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Ready to go!

Since it is a preserve fish life were very friendly as evidenced by “Ash” who has a way with the lady Nassau Groupers!

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Dive guide, Ash, locking lips with a Nassau Grouper

The dives were well planned and included many “swim-throughs” in the narrow tunnels and caverns of the coral reef.  There were schools of blue tangs and yellow tail snappers along with the usual arrow crabs and colorful cleaning shrimp. Of course, the highlight was the large group of friendly groupers!

The next day we executed our plan of returning to the USA via the Great Bahama Bank. The trip from Marsh Harbour heading south around Great Abaco and to Fowey Rock south of Miami via the Bahama Bank is 225 nautical miles (258 statue miles). The weather forecast was good with light wind and 1 foot seas. Great for a power boat, not so good for a “blow boat”. We decided to cross the Great Bahama Bank and stop and anchor in Cat Cay on the west end of the Bank. This 179 nautical mile trip would still involve an overnight so we readied the sea berth, which is nothing more than a lee cloth fitted to our port setee to allow sleeping without falling on the cabin sole (floor).

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Sea berth

We motor sailed  around Hole in the Wall on the south end of Abaco and then continued west, north of the Berry Islands.

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Hole in the Wall, Great Abaco

This part of the Atlantic Ocean between and the Bahama Bank is Cruise ship alley. Since Saturday is a busy day for ship sailings, we encountered no fewer than 8 cruise ships from Princess, Celebrity, MSC, Norwegian and Carnival. We have and use AIS or Automatic Identification System that allows you to identify ships and gives a myriad of information, like name and description of vessel, course, speed and closest point of approach, etc.

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A.I.S.  shows two cruise ships and one cargo ship at the same time…busy!

If the closest point of approach is less than one mile we always call the bridge on the VHF radio make sure that the bridge sees us and offer to make a course change. More often than not the cruise ship or cargo ship will offer to change course to avoid us!

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Cruise ship travelling at night with cargo ship in background

Morning bought with it another nearly windless day and more heat than was comfortable, but the Great Bahama Bank is one of our favorite stretches of water. The water color and quality is absolutely gorgeous! This part of the trip would require travelling about 70 miles in water only 10 to 40 feet deep. As you know, as sailors, we carry loads of technical gear, tactical equipment and specialized clothing for use in specific conditions. Crossing the Great Bahama Bank on this day required very special light cotton boxer shorts, which proved perfect for a mid-morning nap!

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Tactical gear from Macy’s

After a day of attempting to use the spinnaker to take advantage of what little wind we had we anchored just off of Cat Cay before sundown.

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Cat Cay, Bahamas

We settled in for the night in anticipation of our Gulf Stream crossing. Since we had cell phone reception our weather reports were very favorable, again predicting light winds and flat seas. Oh, how we were hoping for 10 to 15 knots out of the East for a spinnaker run!

Stay tuned for the the return to our home port of St. Petersburg via Marathon, Key West, The Dry Tortugas, Captiva and Cabbage Key.

Thanks for your wishes of fair winds!

Captain Bobby and the Admiral

 

Abacos, Bahamas

Crossing Little Bahama Bank to Treasure Cay

Ahoy Mates!

We left the Old Bahama Bay Yacht Club at West End of Grand Bahama with mixed emotions. The refuge of the resort was very pleasant after the Gulf Stream crossing, but the marina itself is like a bee hive. There is non-stop activity with boats and yachts of all sizes and descriptions vying for dock space at the Customs House, fuel dock or slip assignment.

With a toot from my air horn, we parted a number of boats stooging around and headed for the entrance jetty. Just like that, we were off and running north to Memory Rock so that we could enjoy a downwind spinnaker run in an unusual westerly breeze.

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Rigging the asymmetrical spinaker
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Spinnaker set

Crossing the 75 miles or so of the Little Bahama Bank on a sailboat usually requires a couple of stops at conveniently located uninhabited cays in the middle of nowhere.

After the wind died we motor sailed to Mangrove Cay for the night and then met the same wind conditions the next day and motor sailed to Great Sale Cay.

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At anchor, Great Sale Cay

The anchorages at both locations were still and peaceful. Perhaps too still and peaceful. It’s tough to keep cool when the wind drops below 2 knots! We are equipped with two air conditioning units which function well with shore power, but won’t run with our batteries and solar array. We never needed a generator…until these past two days! I was running five fans, scantily clothed, but I was ungodly hot!!

We were anxious to get underway and get cool and the wind did pick up a bit; unfortunately, it was on our nose. It was more pleasant , but we still had to motor sail. We were dodging squalls all day, after all June is rainy season. Good news….SABA got a thorough wash down and all salt was removed.

After travelling an unimpressive distance of 110 nautical miles in three days, we sailed into Manjack Cay (Nunjack) just north of Green Turtle Cay where we had a slip reservation the next day. We nestled in the southernmost anchorage between Rat Cay and Crab Cay…two things you don’t want to be infested with!  The wind was now 10-12 knots from the southeast and much more comfortable.

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Anchor down between Rat Cay and Crab Cay

The next morning we navigated just a few miles south to the narrow entrance of White Sound on Green Turtle Cay. Passing through the narrow and shallow entrance with just 1 foot of water below our 5 foot keel we arrived at the Green Turtle Club and Marina. The Club was full and we had to wait for an hour or so before our slip was vacated. After tying up, turning on the A/C was an undescribable pleasure!! Maybe, we’ll retrofit that 4kw generator after all.

It was off to the restaurant for some cracked conch and then to the pool.8

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Green Turtle Club

We spent our time here relaxing and, of course, a golf cart rental to check out “the town” (Plymouth) was a must. Green Turtle Cay has a population of about 450 souls, so don’t look for a casino or a disco, but there are charming shops, a bakery, restaurants and a couple of small groceries.1 (1)After getting our share of rain on our golf cart outing we sampled another restaurant and were convinced that Green Turtle Club was the place to be. The staff was friendly and efficient and the food excellent. I just started a “Conch Burger Tour” and the contenders will have a tough time measuring up to the one at Turtle Cay.

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Conch Burger Tour, Green Turtle Cay Club

Our next destination required leaving the friendly confines of the Sea of Abaco via the Whale Cay Channel which can be treacherous…not today. We checked the weather conditions and they were spot on: 8-10 knots of wind and 2 foot seas. We encountered a bit of rain, but the short trip around Whale Cay in the Atlantic was uneventful.

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It’s not all sunshine and roses!

Soon we were back in the Sea of Abaco and in the Hub of the Abacos. Our destination: Treasure Cay. We hailed the Treaure Cay Marina on the VHF, got our slip assignment, tied up, plugged in and got settled.  Now it’s off to the beach….Robin’s favorite. With it’s white, powdery sand and magnificent water color and peaceful wave action, it’s hard to beat.

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Treasure Cay, Coco’s Beach
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Coco’s Beach
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What’s not to like!
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Treasure Cay, Brigantine Beach

We’re enjoying Treasure Cay and all it has to offer. There is a pool with it’s bar and restaurant “The Tipsy Seagull”, as well as, a coffee shop, a grocery and a laundry with drop off service….thank you very much! In addition, the Spinnaker Restaurant on the property boasts one of the only air-conditioned restaurants in all of North Abaco….of course, I made a reservation!!

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The Admiral, Captain Bobby and Key Lime Pie

Come along with us as we sail for Marsh Harbor, the largest town in Abaco. With its population of 6,000 it is the third largest town in the Bahamas, exceeded only by Nassau and Freeport. We’ll be staying at a marina in the center of it all and using it as a springboard for side trips.

Have a great week sailors and lubbers alike!

Wish us fair winds,

Captain Bobby

 

Abacos, Bahamas

SABA in the Hub of Abaco

Sleep while at a mooring comes quickly and soundly in our aft cabin on the custom memory foam mattress. It’s like a gentle rocking in a cozy cradle, but here in Settlement Harbour in Guana Cay , the wave slap against the  transom due to swell from the Sea of Abaco jarred our comfy cabin and prompted the Admiral to sleep midships. That, with the faint smell of diesel emanating from one of the Yachts at the adjacent Orchid Bay Marina, in addition to the abbreviated fireworks last night that would have made Francis Scott Key fall off of a rampart, we departed for our next destination. Time to explore the Hub of Abaco.IMG_1691

The Hub of Abaco includes Man-O-Way Cay, Elbow Cay and others, as well as, the main settlement of Marsh Harbour on Great Abaco Island. It is a cruising ground frequented by visiting yachties and the home of many sailing charter companies. Man-O-War Cay is only 8 miles distant from Great Guana, no need for and early start. Besides, we needed to wait for a rising tide to enter the shallow and narrow entrance channel. Robin took the helm at 0945 as I dropped the mooring lines. IMG_1475

MAN-O-WAR CAY

Robin set our course and piloted the boat to the channel and then allowed me the honor of possibly coming to grief navigating the entrance at Man-O-War. Planning for tide, depth and current made for a smooth passage and after just a few more minutes we picked up a mooring just off of the namesake marina.IMG_1482

 

 

 

 

 

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Man-O-Way has a rich history of boat building and repair, a few studios and unique gift shops. Two small groceries and a waterside restaurant are also available. MOW Is quaint, small, quiet , friendly and peaceful.

 

 

 

IMG_1524I outfitted the dinghy with the outboard and we taxied over to the dinghy dock at the marina. IMG_1509

 

There are only 300 residents on the Cay, but we only saw about 10 as we ambled through the small town. We chatted up a few locals as we enjoyed a frozen treat at the modest grocery store. All folks we encountered were friendly, pleasant and helpful.

 

IMG_1522We climbed back into the dinghy and explored the Eastern Harbor hurricane hole. Apparently, many boats are left here for the season. We toured both harbors by dinghy and were impressed by the tranquility and also by three visiting green turtles feeding just off our port beam. We enjoyed a dinner on board and a quiet evening with no wave slap.

 

 

 

MARSH HARBOUR

After breakfast on board while we waited for a rising tide, we stowed our windscoops and cockpit shades, slipped our mooring lines and headed for Marsh Harbour. On the short passage we glimpsed several sailboats leaving the Harbour preparing for the Regatta start at 1100. We motored through the anchorage and made our way to the Harbor View Marina with its central location in the marina district adjacent to many restaurants and shops. Before tying up at our assigned slip, we topped up our diesel at the fuel dock. Opening the fuel fill I watched in disbelief as the stainless fuel filler cap went straight overboard. After fueling, I went for a swim and retrieved the cap in 8 feet of water. Refreshing… and I saved 50 bucks!IMG_1547 IMG_1550

Marsh Harbour is the largest town in Abaco and the third largest in the Bahamas with a population of 6,000. It is exceeded only by Nassau and Freeport. This is not a booming metropolis, there is only one traffic light, but it is known for good restaurants a variety of services and the largest supermarket in all of the Bahamas. We used it as our hub for traveling to neighboring islands and harbors.

 

IMG_1561It is pedestrian friendly in the Marina district, but you’ll need a cab for other destinations, like the grocery or ferry dock. No need to wave a cab down just call them on VHF channel 06 and they will be there pronto. Drivers were courteous and friendly with almost UBER vehicles

 

 

 

IMG_1555We treated ourselves to lunch at Wally’s, a wonderful restaurant just across the street from the Marina. This is probably the finest the finest Conch Burger served anywhere. Tasty, tender, lightly battered and served on a fresh Bahamian bun with fresh garnish… it was magnificent! IMG_1556 Robin was now  fueled for shopping and she poked into every shop within reasonable walking distance. Like the food the items they were very good, but not cheap.

 

 

 

 

LITTLE HARBOR

Little Harbor is about 35 to 40 serpentine nautical miles traveling by water since there are numerous shoals to avoid. In addition, parts of the entrance channel carry only 3.5 feet at mean low water, so we decided to avoid waiting for tides to enter and exit by renting a car and traveling on the highway. IMG_1625We walked to Rental Wheels, LTD and picked up a not too ancient Buick Lucerne. It  had a myriad of dents and dings so that the metal skin had the texture of a raisin and bad shocks to boot, but you know me… I don’t complain.

IMG_1583We drove the 25 miles to Little Harbor over a wide well-paved highway , but the last two miles or so were on a washboard dirt road. Emerging from the forested roadway we saw the lovely, small, but fully protected anchorage and drove the final approach on the sandy path just a few yards from the water’s edge.

IMG_1572 An art colony was established here in the 1950s and a gallery featuring life size marine bronzes and jewelry is open every day. After I engaged in some intense browsing, Robin nixed the purchase of a bronze hammerhead for $17,500 that caught my eye. Too bad, it would have really pissed off the Home Owners Association when I put it in my front yard.

 

 

IMG_1591We then made our way to Pete’s Pub, an open air bar on the beach. No need to bring your dress flip flops. Truthfully, we expected something a bit more civilized so we just enjoyed our drink and did some people watching.  I didn’t want to chance sharing ribs and chicken with the local winged insects, but you know me….I don’t complain.

 

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We returned to Marsh Harbour, did some errands and visited Maxwell’s supermarket….huge.  It has just about anything you could desire in the food category. Chocolate Lactaid milk?…never saw it before and fresh guava if you like not to mention pig’s feet for the goyem.

 

 

 

 

HOPETOWN, ELBOW CAY

IMG_1630Albury’s Ferry runs a convenient, dependable service to many of the neighboring Cays. We thought it a great idea to hop the ferry for the 20 minute trip to Hopetown on Elbow Cay. Hopetown was founded in 1785 by Loyalists escaping the American Revolution. It is one of the most picturesque settlements in the Bahamas unmistakable with its candy striped lighthouse.IMG_1641

The busy harbor is surrounded by a charming town comprised of lovely restored old houses situated on narrow streets with no motorized traffic except for service vehicles. IMG_1639IMG_1654IMG_1666

The ocean beach to the east has powdery pink sand and is protected by an offshore reef. We strolled in the early morning sun along the pathways and visited shops and the beach. The Wyannie Malone Historical Museum gave great insights as to the history of Hopetown.

After a conchburger at the Harbour’s Edge Restaurant, which was good, but no match for Wally’s, we continued our exploring.

 

No visit to lghthHopetown would be complete without a visit to the Lighthouse. We took a water taxi across the harbor and then traveled a narrow curving path leading to a large working boatyard which led to another path along the waterfront and yet another up to the Lighthouse. There were many nice folks along the way giving us directions cheerfully and without hesitation; none of them accurate, but you know me….

The Elbow Reef Lighthouse is 120 feet tall, but the trip up the narrow spiral staircase was easier than it sounds. There were landings on the way up that provided rest and a welcomed breeze through the arched windows. The lighthouse was erected 1864 built to keep vessels from grounding on Elbow Reef. It operates even today with a kerosene fueled mantle and huge rotating Fresnel lens seen for 20 miles. It is the last lighthouse of its kind in the world.

On the ferry ride back to Marsh Harbour I joined the other 20 dozing travelers with a head bob or two. After  a shower and donning my dress flops we enjoyed dinner at Curly Tails, one of the local favorites for fine dining. We walked the 50 yards back to the Harbor View Marina and planned our Saturday to get prepared for our trip back to the U.S. The weather looks good for a Sunday departure.

Fair winds and following seas,

Captain Bobby

 

 

Abacos, Bahamas

SABA to Treasure Cay and Great Guana Cay

Due to Regatta Time in Abaco the Green Turtle Marina and neighboring ones will be totally full for the next week. We left our slip at checkout time of 1100, unfortunately low tide was at 1115. We took our time making our way to the channel which is quite shallow in spots. SABA has a 6,000 lb. keel which extends 5 feet below the waterline. Since our keel bumped on the way in, we adjusted course and exited the White Sound with just a foot or so of clearance from the sandy bottom.

In open water we unfurled the Main and Jib to take advantage of the 10 – 12 knots from the SE. Before long, the wind piped up to 20 to 25 knots and the seas rose to 4 to 5 feet as we were approaching the Whale Cay Channel. Traveling to the Hub of Abaco will require us to leave the protection of the Cays and then re-enter a few miles south. The Whale Cay area is considered the most difficult and treacherous part of the Abacos due to shallow banks and breaking waves. Transiting the area in 20+ knots of wind as we did requires seamanship, navigational skill, sail-handling ability and a tight sphincter.

IMG_1405 After an exciting ride, we reentered the Sea of Abaco and headed WSW to Treasure Cay which is on Great Abaco Island. We called yesterday and reserved a slip at the Treasure Cay Marina and just as we entered the channel we were met with an afternoon downpour. We broke out the foul weather jackets, but by the time we reached our slip the sun made an appearance and we tied up and plugged in. Since we have been traveling almost daily, a vow was made to stay put and enjoy the Resort and it’s amenities for a few days.

PIZZA NIGHT!

IMG_1387Yes, it was a special night at the “Tipsy Seagull” and it’s usually a sellout. The on-site bar/restaurant was packed with locals and tourists alike. A local band was playing dance music and young and old were bopping around, while enjoying fresh baked pizza to order and their favorite beverage. The service was friendly and amazingly fast considering we were on island time. After having our fill and then dancing to familiar tunes, we called it a night.

We spend the next couple of days combining relaxation and chores. During inspection, I found that the bilge pump was malfunctioning… NOT a good thing. Overlooked, this could cause the boat to sink, which would probably ruin a great vacation. Tracing the problem to a worn float switch, I raided my “spares” locker and installed a new one. Perfect! Now off to the beach.

TREASURE CAY BEACH

IMG_1395  IMG_1398National Geographic has rated this 3 plus mile crescent shaped beach one of the ten best in the world. Like many of you, I have seen more than a few beaches, but the crystalline water, cool, powder- like sand and lack of crowds make this one spectacular. Truly magnificent. We didn’t want to leave.

The nearby Coco Beach Club with a beach-funky restaurant and facilities made it damn near perfect. While we were kickin’ back under our palapa and chaise lounges sipping libations our laundry was controlled by a friendly and capable Abaconian named Donna….. It’s good to be the king.

 

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Reading the Cruising Guide, one is overwhelmed with the possibilities for places to visit so press on we must. Even before we thought of traveling to the Abacos we heard tales of Nipper’s Beach Bar on Great Guana Cay.

 

IMG_1420Saying goodbye to Treasure Cay with a promise to return, we cast off the dock lines and headed for Great Guana only 10 miles across the Sea of Abaco.  We arrived at 1130 and picked up a mooring at Guana Cay Harbor, a vibrant, happy place on any Sunday. Now, it’s time to get the dinghy off the deck and give her the power of the outboard engine we carry along to make the trip ashore.

Great Guana Cay and Nipper’s

IMG_1450The main street was a sea of people in mid-revelrie and golf carts galore snaking their way through the crowd. Apparently, the masses were headed either to or from Nipper’s or Grabber’s, another hot spot. Along the way, we were warned about the scant possibility of scoring a drink at the crowded bar.

IMG_1426Through the well-marked path we found Nipper’s on the Beach side of the island. We heard the voice of Robin Thick and the beat of “Blurred Lines” before we glimpsed the throng at the wildly popular spot. As promised, the lines at the bar were three deep, but I managed to find one tucked away where I only waited ten minutes for a couple of Maragitas.IMG_1431

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We watched the goings on with all age groups represented dancing, prancing and showing their stuff. There was enough T & A to make a pirate blush, but most were too fogged up to notice. IMG_1437

 

The beach scene below the bluff where Nipper’s sits was equally raucous with a gaggle of powerboats overloaded with partiers and a few sirens dancing on the bow.

 

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Witnessing such debauchery, I cursed the fact that I was born way too soon. After an hour or so came the realization that even watching the unfolding events made me desire the dinghy ride back to the boat for some quiet time and a nap.

 

 

We toured the rest of the town and met some pleasant travelers from South Africa who were escaping their winter sailing here in the Bahamas. They just arrived from a visit to Cuba and enjoyed it.

 

HAPPY INDEPENDENCE DAY!!

We are spending a quiet day on the mooring with me reading and Robin doing a needlepoint project. As I write, we are preparing for our own personal cookout followed by fireworks. The display from, where else…..Nipper’s and it promises to be spectacular.

Hope you are enjoying your holiday as much as we are.

Captain Bobby and the Admiral

 

 

 

Abacos, Bahamas

SABA on the way to Green Turtle Cay

AHOY!

After a pleasant stay at the Old Bahama Bay Marina on the West End including a savory dinner at the resort restaurant, we set off to cross the Little Bahama Bank. The weather and sea were perfect for an interim stop in Mangrove Cay, 35 miles to the northeast about midway to the far reaches of the Northern Cays. We set the anchor down to rest for the evening and enjoy the sunset with only one catamaran in sight of this uninhabited low lying island.

IMG_1326After a restful night we set off again to make landfall ih the Northern Cays. One that we had read about in cruising guides for its pristine beauty, sand bars and tidal pools is Double Breasted Cays. The entry to the anchorage was serpentine but worth the idyllic setting. We spend the late afternoon with a swim to the sand bar and some peaceful rest in the protection of the low lying barrier islands. We had some visitors from “Let It Be” a 42 foot Catamaran. Frank and Mary Grace were cordial, we had much in common and plan to meet up with us in Annapolis at the Boat Show in October. IMG_1312

 

The next morning while waiting for a rising tide in order to navigate our exit I took time for another swim. Armed with a sponge SABA got some needed attention as I scrubbed the waterline before an early lunch and hauling anchor to head for our next destination.

 

IMG_1343Making our way toward Green Turtle Cay we had two overnight stops, one at Allans-Pensacola Cay and another at Powell Cay. As we traveled south the appearance of the water increased in clarity and beauty and we were again treated to near perfect weather with 5 to 12 knots of wind, sunny skies and 1 to 2 foot seas. The leg to Powell Cay which is  the across the Sound from Coopers Town on Little Abaco Island was the best yet.

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We were at full sail with only the sound of a gentle steady wind in our ears, the muffled fluttering of the flag and the dappling of the crystalline blue wavelets lapping at our hull. No drone of a diesel engine to interfere with a perfect day. As we neared the fourth uninhabited island in as many days we thought we may venture into a marina. Actually, we needed to top up water and enjoy a bit of air conditioning while being plugged in.

 

 

IMG_1381Green Turtle Cay has a population of about 450 and a variety of anchorages and marinas. We chose the Green Turtle Marina in White Sound. Due to the fact that there is a regatta scheduled we can only stay one night so we made the best of it. We enjoyed lunch and dinner at the Club and in between toured the island in a rented Golf Cart. Due to road conditions this was the roughest part of our journey, but it was great to tour the island and learn of its history. IMG_1373

 

New Plymouth in the southern part of Green Turtle Cay was established in the late 1700s by English Loyalists avoiding the turmoil in the States. The locals are very proud of their heritage and boast of the fact that they are 7th or 8th generation residents. We had a libation at the Wrecking Tree and picked up some needed provisions like island baked goods and vegetables at Sid’s Grocery.

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On the few miles returning to the marina, Robin decided on an Atlantic Ocean break from the pitted and gulley washed roadway.

We are now preparing to leave the slip and travel to Treasure Cay Marina on Great Abaco Island. There we will take some time off from the water and check out the local activities.

 

See you soon Mates!

Captain Bobby and the Admiral