Due to Regatta Time in Abaco the Green Turtle Marina and neighboring ones will be totally full for the next week. We left our slip at checkout time of 1100, unfortunately low tide was at 1115. We took our time making our way to the channel which is quite shallow in spots. SABA has a 6,000 lb. keel which extends 5 feet below the waterline. Since our keel bumped on the way in, we adjusted course and exited the White Sound with just a foot or so of clearance from the sandy bottom.
In open water we unfurled the Main and Jib to take advantage of the 10 – 12 knots from the SE. Before long, the wind piped up to 20 to 25 knots and the seas rose to 4 to 5 feet as we were approaching the Whale Cay Channel. Traveling to the Hub of Abaco will require us to leave the protection of the Cays and then re-enter a few miles south. The Whale Cay area is considered the most difficult and treacherous part of the Abacos due to shallow banks and breaking waves. Transiting the area in 20+ knots of wind as we did requires seamanship, navigational skill, sail-handling ability and a tight sphincter.
After an exciting ride, we reentered the Sea of Abaco and headed WSW to Treasure Cay which is on Great Abaco Island. We called yesterday and reserved a slip at the Treasure Cay Marina and just as we entered the channel we were met with an afternoon downpour. We broke out the foul weather jackets, but by the time we reached our slip the sun made an appearance and we tied up and plugged in. Since we have been traveling almost daily, a vow was made to stay put and enjoy the Resort and it’s amenities for a few days.
PIZZA NIGHT!
Yes, it was a special night at the “Tipsy Seagull” and it’s usually a sellout. The on-site bar/restaurant was packed with locals and tourists alike. A local band was playing dance music and young and old were bopping around, while enjoying fresh baked pizza to order and their favorite beverage. The service was friendly and amazingly fast considering we were on island time. After having our fill and then dancing to familiar tunes, we called it a night.
We spend the next couple of days combining relaxation and chores. During inspection, I found that the bilge pump was malfunctioning… NOT a good thing. Overlooked, this could cause the boat to sink, which would probably ruin a great vacation. Tracing the problem to a worn float switch, I raided my “spares” locker and installed a new one. Perfect! Now off to the beach.
TREASURE CAY BEACH
National Geographic has rated this 3 plus mile crescent shaped beach one of the ten best in the world. Like many of you, I have seen more than a few beaches, but the crystalline water, cool, powder- like sand and lack of crowds make this one spectacular. Truly magnificent. We didn’t want to leave.
The nearby Coco Beach Club with a beach-funky restaurant and facilities made it damn near perfect. While we were kickin’ back under our palapa and chaise lounges sipping libations our laundry was controlled by a friendly and capable Abaconian named Donna….. It’s good to be the king.
Reading the Cruising Guide, one is overwhelmed with the possibilities for places to visit so press on we must. Even before we thought of traveling to the Abacos we heard tales of Nipper’s Beach Bar on Great Guana Cay.
Saying goodbye to Treasure Cay with a promise to return, we cast off the dock lines and headed for Great Guana only 10 miles across the Sea of Abaco. We arrived at 1130 and picked up a mooring at Guana Cay Harbor, a vibrant, happy place on any Sunday. Now, it’s time to get the dinghy off the deck and give her the power of the outboard engine we carry along to make the trip ashore.
Great Guana Cay and Nipper’s
The main street was a sea of people in mid-revelrie and golf carts galore snaking their way through the crowd. Apparently, the masses were headed either to or from Nipper’s or Grabber’s, another hot spot. Along the way, we were warned about the scant possibility of scoring a drink at the crowded bar.
Through the well-marked path we found Nipper’s on the Beach side of the island. We heard the voice of Robin Thick and the beat of “Blurred Lines” before we glimpsed the throng at the wildly popular spot. As promised, the lines at the bar were three deep, but I managed to find one tucked away where I only waited ten minutes for a couple of Maragitas.
We watched the goings on with all age groups represented dancing, prancing and showing their stuff. There was enough T & A to make a pirate blush, but most were too fogged up to notice. 
The beach scene below the bluff where Nipper’s sits was equally raucous with a gaggle of powerboats overloaded with partiers and a few sirens dancing on the bow.
Witnessing such debauchery, I cursed the fact that I was born way too soon. After an hour or so came the realization that even watching the unfolding events made me desire the dinghy ride back to the boat for some quiet time and a nap.
We toured the rest of the town and met some pleasant travelers from South Africa who were escaping their winter sailing here in the Bahamas. They just arrived from a visit to Cuba and enjoyed it.
HAPPY INDEPENDENCE DAY!!
We are spending a quiet day on the mooring with me reading and Robin doing a needlepoint project. As I write, we are preparing for our own personal cookout followed by fireworks. The display from, where else…..Nipper’s and it promises to be spectacular.
Hope you are enjoying your holiday as much as we are.
Captain Bobby and the Admiral
Best reading of the summer. Happy Forth.
As always, with your dialogue, I feel like I am experiencing your trip with you. Then sadly fall back to the realization that I am not. It sounds like just a magnificent trip. Keep on enjoying!!!
Thank you for the kind words. We are at the half way point of our trip and have traveled 560 miles. We head out this morning for Man-of-War Cay just 8 miles distant. Will update soon. Thanks for folowing us.