Passage to the Bahamas

Off to Cat Cay and Nassau

Ahoy Shipmates!

On Wednesday, our plans to leave Marathon and head for Cat Cay in the Bahamas after crossing the Gulf Stream in the Straits of Florida looked promising. The Buoy reports and other sites suggested that on Wednesday into Thursday moderating winds and seas should make for a memorable passage.

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1 (1)We had a lively sail throught the Hawk Channel paralleling the Florida Keys, wind was a brisk 15 to 20 knots with 3 to 4 foot seas in this protected area. The promise of moderating wind and waves never occurred. Weather reports I guess can be like the main street media….FAKE NEWS!

We exited the Hawk Channel at Angelfish Cut, southeast of Miami at 2200 (10:00pm) and spent the next two hours successfully dodging huge squalls while rockin’ and rollin’ in a building sea that was supposed to moderate. While alternating watches Robin danced with the 8 or so cargo and cruise ships in the Gulf Stream. With the wind on the nose we were forced to motor sail and tack with frustrating regularity. In doing so we weren’t able to take advantage of the 2 to 3 knot current to help us along.

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24 hours and 123 nautical miles into a supposed 20 hour trip we arrived at the Cat Cay Yacht Club on Thursday and were delighted to have calm once again. We tied up in a slip close to the amenities and it was off to Customs and Immigation on site to get legal and get our Cruising Permit for the Bahamas.

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The check in procedures were convenient and the Customs and Immigration Officials were kind, efficient and courteous which is one of the reasons we check in at this location. Now it’s back to the boat to hoist the Bahamas Courtesy Flag and grant permission to the Admiral to step ashore.

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Dinner at the Nauticat is something quite special due to the fact we were the only couple there to enjoy such personal service and delicious fare.

With the weather forecast showing improvement, we cast off after a 24 hour hiatus and were back at sea on Friday morning. Crossing the Great Bahama Bank is one of the great pleasures of sailing. We will travel over 60 miles in 7 to 13 feet of crystalline clear water with shades of blue, turquoise and teal that defy description.

9The wind was still strong at 15 knots plus with 3 foot seas making the usual sailing nirvanah a bit of challenge. The wind demanded that we motor sail again with reefed main so we were using a bit more fuel than planned…time to dip into the jerry cans and add some fuel to the tank for the longer than planned trip as we were already 3 hours behind our original estimate.

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The Northwest Channel Passage from the Bahama Bank to the Tongue of the Ocean to Nassau is usually a slog. With a strong Southeast wind and a very strong current as you leave the shallow bank and enter the 7800 foot deep water you can expect some turmoil….the sea was high and confused and we were pounding against it a bit more than one would call comfortable. This becomes evident when you see water coming over the bow. This is not a trip recommend for most people without a Dramamine drip!

 

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This leg of the trip was 126 nautical miles over 26 hours. Needless to say we were delighted to be back at Nassau Yacht Harbor right in the middle of the Marina District and close to shopping and services. We tied up, rinsed off an ample coating of salt from the deck from all of the spray and tidied up the cabin before a shower, two hour nap and a great dinner at the Poop Deck…always fun with good Bahamian food right at the Marina.

15Morning had us walking the three blocks to Starbucks for a coffee and some internet tasks and then on to the Fresh Market next door. Nothing better than a well stocked grocery with a great bakery to replenish our stores.

Then, a short walk to the Potters Cay Market, a great local spot for some fresh Conch Salad. The location is a bit rough, but the conch ceviche is superb. Here you see Robin and I consulting with Conchmaster Craig of Skinnys Place.

 

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Back to the Marina for some boat chores and blogging while Robin gets household chores totally under control. Not only is Robin a good navigator, pilot, planner, cook and First Mate, but she is lovely to be with. To quote Eric Hiscock, famous author and sailor, “the only way to get a good crew is to marry one.”

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As always, wish us fair winds. So far have 469 nautical miles (540 statute miles) under our keel and it’s off to the Exumas tomorrow after a two day stay in Nassau. It should be a pleasant 45 mile sail with 10 to 15 knots of wind and 2 foot seas….if that news isn’t fake too!

Captain Bobby and the Commish

Passage to the Bahamas

SABA crosses Gulfstream to West End, Grand Bahama

Ahoy Mates,

After high wind conditions Monday and then a line of thunderstorms lasting into the afternoon we postponed our diversion to the Conch Republic (Key West). In addition, there was a battery charging issue that arose and needed to be addressed before heading to the Bahamas. We spent Tuesday morning sorting out the power issue and that was resolved with great relief. After checking weather obsessively, there was a great opportunity to set out Wednesday at 0700 and motorsail along the Keys, continue up to Miami then cross the Gulf Stream and arrive at the West End on Thursday afternoon.

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As you can see from the buoy reports the winds are expected to be diminishing and turning to the southeast which will give us a more favorable point of sail. In addition, the wave heights in the Gulf Stream are expected to be 2 -3 feet, a lot better than the 5 – 8 feet predicted Monday.

IMG_1144Charting and route planning are also an important part of a successful trip. Using a combination of paper charts, electronic charts, cruising guides and the experience of crossing the Gulf Stream in the Straits of Florida we planned a course to take us to Abacos. This leg of the trip should cover 180 miles and take about 30 hours. We left Marathon on Wednesday morning at 0700 and then motorsailed against an east wind along the Hawk Channel. The reefed mainsail gave us stability and lift as we traveled between the Keys and the Florida Reefs. It was a lovely sunny day and we were making a bit less than 6 knots until we were able change course a bit to get more speed.

Divers who have visited the Keys are not strangers to the John Pennecamp State Park that we are now sailing through. There are some great dive sites which have been protected for decades. There are spur and groove coral formations and it is teeming with a variety of fish, turtles and invertebrates.It is also home to some wonderful wreck diving like the Speigel Grove, the Duane and the Benwood.

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As we traveled between Islamorada and Tavernier Key we noted the usual dive boat activity near Hen and Chickens reef. I have been fortunate to have captured many good underwater photos at this site, but that’s a story for another day.

 

 

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As we started to alter course more to the north we were able to catch more wind, so out came the jib and we freshened our pace to over 6 knots, the seas were a kindly 1 – 2 feet, a light chop, so we enjoyed the pleasant conditions.

 

 

 

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As evening approached, we were nearing the end of the Hawk Channel. At sundown and with incredible timing, we took a course off shore with Miami off of our port bow. We made the decision to head straight for the West End from just north of Fowey Rocks rather than head north to Miami or Fort Lauderdale.

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We planned a heading of 42 degrees for the 86 miles left to reach our destination. This would allow us more time to take advantage of the 2 – 3 knot current in the Gulfstream to increase our speed.

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WOW! We were now traveling at  7.5 to 8.3 knots in 3 to 4 foot seas. At about midnight Robin reported seeing 9 knots and said that SABA was very happy. ETA is now 0900 vs 1300. As usual, we kept to our 3 hour watch schedule so we could continue our passage uninterrupted. Anchoring in 2,000 feet of water would be a bit difficult, so we just press on! SABA has a comfortable sea berth below so we can sleep without worrying about falling on the floor in heavy seas and for all of you Jewish mothers out there, with all the provisions aboard we have plenty to eat while we travel.

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LAND HO!!

At about 0700 on Thursday, 24 hours after we left the protection of Boot Key Harbor in Marathon we spotted the tower on the West End. Our destination was only about 2 hours ahead. Preparations for landfall were made. Put up the “Q” flag that lets the host country know that we have not cleared customs. Take in the jacklines, the nylon webbing that extends from bow to stern that I attach my safety harness to if I need to go forward. Take out the dock lines and fenders and prepare to furl the Mainsail as we approach the harbor.

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We called the Old Bay Marina on the VHF and had to stooge around a bit while we waited for a number of pleasure fishing boats to fill up and leave the fuel dock. We tied up after waiting our turn to get fuel and get our slip assignment. After docking, I filled out a handful of Bahamas paperwork for Customs and Immigration on board. I marched over to the island purple Customs shack and with unusual government courtesy and competency we are now legal in the Bahamas, but $300 lighter due to the cost of the Bahamas Cruising Permit.

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Returning to our slip I took down the “Q” flag and replaced it with the Bahamas Courtesy Flag which SABA will be wearing for a few weeks. Now it’s time to hose down the boat. I use an old trick I learned in my yacht delivery days of adding white vinegar to the wash bucket to cut the salt. Now she looks great….and smells like a salad! Just enough time to shower, check out the resort and then take a long nap before dinner.

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The grounds of  the Old Bay Yacht Resort were impeccably maintained and the entire staff is friendly and helpful. The marina is busy with pleasure fishing boats and their crews. You’ll find all sorts of boats from center consoles to sport fishers to luxury yachts with numerous crew. Everyone was quick to say “hello” and start conversation, which scared the hell out of me.IMG_1288

It’s Friday night and I hear this place gets crazy on the weekend so we’ll be heading out to explore the Abacos tomorrow morning. We’ll be on anchored off of some uninhabited Cays like Mangrove Cay and Double Breasted Cay….. I like the sound of that.

Next update will be when we are in range of a cell tower so I can use my iphone hotspot for a wifi connection, whatever that hell that means.

Welcome to the Bahamas Mon!

Captain Bobby

 

 

Passage to the Bahamas

SABA off to The Keys and beyond

Ahoy Mates

After several weeks of preparing SABA,  we left our second home at the Vinoy Marina in St. Petersburg on Thursday for the Abacos in the Bahamas. As you know, we planned on shoving off at 0700, but one of our air conditioning systems decided to surprise us with a need for unscheduled maintenance. Luckily, Sean and Kevin of Tampa Bay Yacht Management answered our distress call and after some troubleshooting got us up and running in no time. There must be air conditioning in Bobamala!

We cast off the lines at 1000 under a partly sunny sky and 10 – 15 knots of wind from the WSW . Our goal was to make up some time because of the delay and that we did. We unfurled the mainsail, but reefed it due to the increasing wind and kept the engine on make over 7 knots. IMG_1096We were under the Sunshine Skyway Bridge at 1140 and out of Tampa Bay and in the Gulf of Mexico heading south by 1300. The winds varied from 17 to 20 knots with gusts up to 25. The 3 to 6 foot seas were confused with lots of whitecaps and occasionally we were slammed with larger waves. Beaufort terms this a Force 5 or “Fresh Breeze”. Since we’re traveling south toward Boca Grande it was a quartering sea but the bit of wallowing was better than slamming against the waves. The autopilot held a steady course, but I imagine a few of you mates may have lost breakfast over the side.

As the day and evening wore on conditions moderated and we were treated to a colorful sunset and a spectacular motorsail under a full moon. IMG_1111Lovely! Robin and I are used to running overnight by doing 3 hour watches. Robin uses an iPod loaded with audiobooks while checking course, speed, navigational hazards and the occasional boat. She has help from two chart plotters, radar, and an AIS receiver (Automatic Identification System) which all vessels over 300 tons must use. The safety factor of knowing the name, description, course, speed and prediction of collision is wonderful. As for me, I just sit there and pretend I know what the hell I am doing.

On a trip like this, navigation is critical, so we use electronic chart plotters, like the GPS in your car, paper charts and guidebooks. The course isn’t marked with buoys every few miles like it is on the Intracoastal or “Powerboat River”. In any case, after running for about 50 miles without seeing a buoy, we picked up a few markers north of Marathon in the Keys and made our way through a five mile channel and passed under the 7 mile bridge. IMG_1130We arrived at Boot Key Harbor in Marathon at 1830 on Saturday, that’s 218 miles in 32.5 hours averaging 6.7 knots, not bad for a 24,000 pound piece of plastic with two sails and a 40 horse power Yanmar.

IMG_1141We chilled out on Sunday and got some needed rest, listened to the Cruisers Net on VHF channel 68, which is like a boaters chatroom. We found out we’re in for a show tonight at 8:30pm (2030) as the Space Shuttle travels overhead.

As always, we checked the weather through the national weather service, buoy reports and several weather apps and got some interesting news. Due to weather forecasts our Float Plan has changed. Take it from me and countless others, crossing the Gulfstream in a north wind can be nasty. The waves get high and steep and make for some unpleasantry. The forecast for the crossing on Sunday from Ft. Lauderdale to the West End of Grand Bahama is not great. We are looking at 17-22 knots of wind from the ENE with 6 – 8 foot seas. Guess who is staying in Marathon till Wednesday when the wind shifts to the East and moderates to 8 to 12 knots with 2 – 3 foot seas.

We are planning a diversion to Key West….

Fair winds and following seas,

Captain Bobby

Passage to the Bahamas

SABA is Preparing to Get Ready!

Ahoy Mates!

Rob and BobBy now you have packed your seabag with everything you need for a 38 day trip. Hand it over to me and come on board our Hunter 38 foot cruising sailboat SABA. We’ll stow it in the forward cabin and make sure you settle in. First mate Robin and I have everything ship shape and have filled the larders with enough provisions and adult beverages to choke a horse. Not to worry, we’ll keep you safe and comfortable, no need for Dramamine, Scopalamine or Stugeron to ward off Mal de Mer since you actually will  just be experiencing this adventure from your couch.

 

Saba at dockFrom St. Petersburg, Florida on Tampa Bay we are headed for the Abacos in the Northern Bahamas and plan on traveling about 1,100 nautical miles over the next 38 days. The weather forecast is favorable for the first leg of our trip in the Gulf of Mexico with wind out of the west at about 10 to 15 knots and 2 to 3 foot seas. There is rain in the forecast, but nothing that should prevent us from reaching Marathon a distance of about 215 nautical miles in about 35 to 36 hours. Our plan is to leave the dock at the Vinoy Marina Friday at 0700 which should put us in Boot Key Harbor on Vaca Key Saturday at 1800. We’ll pick up a mooring, enjoy a sundowner and a leisurely dinner before getting  a bit of rest. On Sunday at 0800 we’ll drop the mooring line, top up fuel and water at a local marina and then sail the Hawk Channel in the Florida Keys before turning Northeast to head for the West End of Grand Bahama. We should be abeam of Ft. Lauderdale at midnight getting a lift from the Gulfstream and arriving at West End in the early afternoon on Monday.  There we will check into Customs and get a slip at the Old Bahama Bay Resort northwest of Freeport. Let the adventure begin!

Captain Bobby