After three weeks in Bahamian waters including visiting seven spots in the Abacos it was time to return to the U.S. so that the Commissioner could resume her duties . During this time Robin had devoured eleven books and completed an amazing needlepoint project. All I did was keep us afloat and moving from one location to the other with Robin’s help.
We were awakened by an increase in wind over Cat Cay giving promise of a crossing by sail, but the passing squall left us with 1 – 2 knots of wind from the east. After we navigated the narrow cut between Gun Cay and Cat Cay passing the Gun Cay lighthouse, we were soon feeling the effects of the Gulf Stream current.
In order to keep a course over ground of 280 degrees we were steering 250 to 255 to counter the effect of the 2.5 knot current. You would never guess that the current was strong looking at the water surface, it looked like the surface of a calm lake! I took the opportunity to call ahead to the Marathon Marina while we still had cell service to reserve a slip for tomorrow morning as we had a 24 hour trip ahead of us.
Even though the wind was still light we had the mainsail up, not so much for stability or additional speed, but just to look good! We didn’t have much company crossing the Stream, we encountered few cargo ships along the way, but since the Aby Scarlett was going to pass only .3 miles away, I called the bridge on the VHF. According to maritime law in this instance we had the right of way, but knowledge of basic physics warns of the impending doom when you collide with a 873 foot ship doing 13.5 knots.
“Good morning Captain, this is the sailboat Saba 3 miles off of your starboard bow, I see that our CPA (Closest Point of Approach) is .3 nautical miles so we are altering course 20 degrees to port and will pass your stern.” He responded politely, thanked us and wished us a safe voyage.
We made the 47 mile Gulf Stream crossing in 8.5 hours averaging 5.5 knots. It’s always a pleasure to return to “soundings” where your depth finder actually registers a number rather than “deep” and the cerrulian blue waters of the Hawk Channel welcome you home.
Rounding Fowey Rocks put the wind on our beam and we had a glorious and peaceful sail down the Hawk Channel as we had the waterway to ourselves. After 5 hours of sailing, the wind died again so it was back to motorsailing.
We motorsailed through the night and as we usually do altered watches every 2 to 4 hours to enable the other crew member to sleep. We arrived at the Marathon Marina in the morning and tied up at the fuel dock to fuel up with help from the friendly staff. Our slip was ready for us and was as before in a convenient spot.
After tying up, we called the Customs and Border Patrol on an 800 number and checked in using the Small Vessel Reporting System. We are each registered personally and our boat is registered as well to allow for easy check in. One minute later we heard, “Welcome home” from the friendly agent.
We used our time in Marathon to do some laundry and some complete mundane boat tasks. Since we had a great internet connection I was able to place quite a few Stock Option trades. As many of you know, this is a passion of mine and an indication that I was back in business!
Our special surprise in Marathon was our dinner at Frank’s Grill. The place is tucked away in a strip shopping center and from outward appearances not especially inviting.
We were greeted warmly and the food was fantastic…possibly the best Frutti de Mare Fra Diavlo I have ever had and Robin’s veal marsala was superb. The homemade desserts including the cheesecake and key lime pie were fabulous. Frank made a point of coming out of the kitchen to say “hello”…great guy, super chef!
When you are in the keys, stop by for dinner. During season, reservations are a must. http://www.franksgrillmarathon.com
After our two day hiatus in Marathon, it was off for Key West, only 42 miles distant. With 6 – 7 knots of wind from the SE we motorsailed to one of our favorite locations, Key West Bight. We tied up stern-to at the A & B Marina, right in the middle of Key West marina activity
After tying up and checking in it was time for exploring all the Marina had to offer. The staff was friendly and helpful and the shower facilities were some of the best we’ve found in our travels. We also were impressed with the convivial atmosphere of the marina with it’s coffee shop, bar and restaurant and great happy hour at the White Tarpon. I got my fill of $1 oysters before we headed out for the evening.
Grunt’s on Caroline Street is one of the oldest bars in Key West. Thursday nights feature the “Shanty Hounds” a local group of muscians. We met singer/songwriters Dani Hoy and Chris Rehm a couple of years ago and we take in their shows whenever we can. As usual, they kept an eclectic group entertained through the evening. Thanks to Dani, Chris and Bob for making us feel like a part of their family!
There are few places better for breakfast in Key West than Ricky’s BLUE HEAVEN. The place always seem packed, but the short wait seems even shorter with one of their signature Bloody Marys. The fresh baked breads, inventive breakfast entrees are delicious, not to mention what is probably the best key lime pie on the planet!
After that wonderful breakfast we walked back to the marina, but along the way made a few stops. In addition a clothing store, the grocery and a dive shop to try on a new 3mm wetsuit we were sidetracked by the lure of key lime pie…..again!
In a Facebook post, I mentioned Robin and I enjoyed a Seaplane trip over to the Dry Tortugas from Key West to tour Fort Jefferson which happens to be the largest masonry structure in the Western Hemisphere with an interesting history and is surrounded by a vibrant coral reef
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Ponce de Leon discovered the island in 1513 and named it Las Tortugas. Subsequently, it was named Dry Tortugas to warn mariners that no fresh water could be found. Having visited the Fort decades ago I did note some aging in some of the structure. Construction started in 1846 and continued for 30 years. It was never completed. Originally constructed to protect Gulf shipping it was soon deemed obsolete after it could not be protected by newly constructed rifled cannon.
Fort Jefferson did serve as a prison during the Civil War. It was most famous for hosting Dr. Samuel Mudd who assisted John Wilkes Booth, Abraham Lincoln’s assassin.
After what was a great day at the Dry Tortugas we returned to Key West Bight to relax and enjoy yet another happy hour. This time we were joined at the Boathouse by Dani and Chris of the Shanty Hounds. We happened to sit at the same spot where we met a couple of years ago. After sharing great food and lots of laughs we retired to our boat, just steps away from boardwalk restaurants.
Time for Sunday Brunch! Our Key West resident friend of many years Joy, whom we have know since we were teenagers, recommended Lattitudes Restaurant on neighboring Sunset Key. Formerly known as Tank Island, Sunset Key is a 27 acre luxurious island community and resort accessible ony by boat.
As you may imagine lunch at Latitude on Sunset Key was elegant, fabulous and made the heat, humidity and windless days of travelling a distant memory. We will be sure to return on our next vist to Key West. Thanks Joy!!
We’ll be heading north tomorrow to Captiva on our way back to St. Pete, but before we do, a visit to the Conch Republic just a few steps away from our marina was in order. We couldn’t leave without saying goodbye to Dani and Chris and to let them know that we’d be back soon.
Leaving Key West is always difficult since we enjoy our stays here so much. It was even more difficult since there was little to no wind. We didn’t even bother raising the mainsail since the sea was so flat. We did get some help from a favorable current up the channel and for the first hour we were doing 7 to 8 knots!
- Sunset Florida Bay
Listening to the engine drone on for another 24 hours we reached Captiva and headed for the fuel dock at the South Seas Yacht Harbour. We have been here several times and it’s a comfortable place for us.
We relaxed for a couple of days at the pool and at the beach before making the move to our home marina. We cast off our lines at noon since we didn’t want to arrive at St. Petersburg too early and even then had some time to kill. The 96 mile journey would take about 17 hours and we wanted to arrive after 8 am.
Ten miles distant from Captiva on the intracoastal is Cabbage Key, home of the restaurant where Jimmy Buffett allegedly composed “Cheeseburger in Paradise”. Cabbage Key is really a bit of Old Florida and since it is only accessable by boat it’s not likely to change soon.
- Cabbage Cay, home of “Cheeseburger in Paradise”
We tied up at the Cabbage Key Inn dock and made our way to the Inn. Not only did we get the famed cheeseburger but we managed to kill a couple of hours.
The remainder of the trip dealt us heavy rain, confused 3 to 5 foot seas and general mayhem under a double reefed main and more engine time. Luckily for Robin her watches were a bit more comfortable and she enjoyed clear weather. I was heartened when I saw the lights of the Sunshine Skyway bridge, but 30 minutes later we were in a huge downpour. There is no doubt that the past 12 hours dealt us more weather than we had for the entire trip!
As the early morning hours progressed, the sky cleared and we tied up at our familiar slip in the Vinoy Marina. We took our time getting all in order, rinsing the boat, cleaning and organizing below deck and offloading a few carts of gear.
It was a marvelous trip!
We covered 1115 Nautical Miles (1282 statue miles) over 36 days. We sailed overnight on six occasions, anchored out five nights and spent 25 days in marinas. The marina stays were more frequent due to the lack of wind to keep us comfortable at anchor.
We have sailed these Bahama trips for the last four years so I guess we earned our Bahamas degree. Our plans may change for the future. We are considering all of our options.. longer, larger and luxurious!
Thanks for following along with us. We loved having you!
Fair winds and following seas,
Captain Bobby and the Commish
Thank you for following our sojourn in the Abacos. Our 18 day visit to these islands rich in history included stops at uninhabited islands, small settlements and busy harbors. The experiences were varied but locals and visitors alike were always friendly and welcoming. We spent our last evening at Wally’s in Marsh Harbour celebrating our stay in these wonderful islands. We left the friendly environment of the Harbour View Marina with some trepidation as we cast off the lines starting our journey back to the United States.
Our route planning involved transiting a tricky channel from the Sea of Abaco into the Atlantic Ocean then traveling south along the inhospitable lee shore of Great Abaco. There are few anchorages along the way, so we enjoyed some magnificent sailing and just kept alternating our watches and continued on. We rounded Great Abaco at an iffy anchorage called Hole in the Wall then transited the the Northwest Providence Channel and the northern section of the Great Bahama Bank toward Bimini. Already with 32 hours in and 172 miles under our keel we bypassed the popular “island in the stream” because wind and waves were favorable. I guess we just wanted to continue to be cradled in the arms of Mother Ocean.
We have tied up here in the past and as usual the staff was friendly, helpful and courteous. Their recommendations for restaurants and activities bests Trip Advisor. After 69 hours, nearly 3 full days and 345 nautical miles…time to celebrate like a Conch!
Key West is quirky, artistic and laid back where happy hour is every hour. If food, drink, music and debauchery excites you…you have found paradise. People watching is beyond compare as it is an international destination. Also notable are the great number of 19th Century wooden structures many which serve as bars or eateries. Shopping also seems to be a market driver due to the number of tourists. Since Robin is a lover of hats there was one painting that I couldn’t resist.
Here we met an affable couple now part of the Key West fabric. Chris and Dani are business owners, singers, songwriters and all around great people. We had the pleasure of taking in their performance at Grunts, a wonderfully intimate bar and patio lounge. Chris has written a few songs aimed at live-aboard boaters, cruisers and, of course, the residents of Dildo Key. So as you know, it’s not always the miles traveled, it’s the wonderful people you meet.