We so enjoyed our Cruise on the Danube with Tauck in 2022 that we wanted to embark on another European adventure. Tauck is an award-winning, family-owned luxury tour operator founded one hundred years ago. A Tauck journey is an upscale, all-inclusive travel experience that covers virtually every vacation expense upfront. Their packages include luxury hotel/ship accommodations, airport transfers, the majority of meals, guided sightseeing, luggage handling, insider access to attractions and just about everything else including all tips.
Tauck’s “Cruising the Seine, plus Paris & London” is a 12-day, highly inclusive premium journey. It combines a 2-night land stay in London and a 2-night stay in Paris with a 7-night luxury river cruise along the Seine and English Channel crossings via the Eurostar. We added two nights in London to allow for more sightseeing, since it was our first trip there, having spent most of our travel time in tropical destinations.
TRIP SUMMARY:
1. London
- Our trip began with a 4-night stay in London at a top-tier luxury hotel.
- Guided sightseeing featured visits to iconic sights like the Churchill War Rooms.
- We traveled from London to Paris in first-class comfort aboard the high-speed Eurostar.
2. Paris
- Following the train crossing, we spent time exploring the City of Light.
- Visit the stunning Chateau de Versailles and Gardens
3. The Seine River Cruise
Direct flights from Tampa to London take approximately 8 to 9 hours, covering a distance of 4427 miles along a great circle route that goes up the East Coast of the US, over Newfoundland and the Atlantic, before arriving over Ireland/Wales and descending into London. Virgin Atlantic Airline offers a non-stop 8.5 hour flight from Tampa to Heathrow flight at 8:05 pm, but we were delayed 1.5 hours in Tampa due to lightning which interrupted baggage loading, provisioning and fueling. Even though we upgraded, our seats they were lumpy and a bit cramped. We have had great experiences with Virgin Australia in the past, but Virgin Atlantic is a separate corporate entity, which apparently have the same staffing guidelines as Heinrich Himmler. The attendants weren’t wearing black shirts, but they did bark orders about seatbelts and window shades on a regular basis. Wednesday, May 20 LONDON Thankfully, but with little sleep, we arrived at Heathrow airport in London, England at 11:05 am BST (British Summer Time) and navigated through immigration, baggage pick up and customs smoothly, where our driver was waiting to deliver us to the hotel in heavy traffic. London which holds the title for the most congested city in Europe, with drivers losing an average of 101 hours to gridlock annually. The nightmare is due to unavoidable mix of ancient, winding street layouts, intense population density, and strict traffic-calming measures that heavily penalize car use. After successfully navigating traffic, we arrived at the Rosewood London, an ultra-luxury, five-star hotel situated in a historic Edwardian building in the heart of Covent Garden in London’s West End. We drove under stone arches into the stunning Edwardian cobblestone courtyard and were promptly greeted warmly by the doorman who tended to our luggage immediately and guided us to the front desk to several waiting hosts. We were checked in quickly and escorted to our room without delay. Thursday, May 21 We arranged a full day, guided Windsor Castle Tour through Viator in advance, but that required meeting Vincent, our personal guide, at Paddington station. The doorman summoned a Black Cab, London’s official carriage, known for their spacious interiors and highly trained drivers. Fares are metered, offering a secure but premium ride. London black cab drivers train for an average of three to four years to pass “The Knowledge”, a notoriously grueling navigational examination. Candidates are required to memorize approximately 25,000 streets and thousands of landmarks within a six-mile radius of the city. We spotted Vincent, our personal guide, at the entrance of Padding Station and boarded the 10 am train. During the trip, he explained our plan for the day and gave a detailed account of the pertinent history. After a transfer at Slough, we arrived at Windsor station about an hour later. We were first struck by the imposing wall and Henry III Tower built in the 13th Century. Eton College is a public school providing boarding education for boys aged 13–18, located in Eton, Berkshire. Eton College, is a prestigious, all-boys British boarding school. It is world-renowned for its rigorous academics, rich traditions, and legacy of producing global leaders, having educated 20 British Prime Ministers, numerous royals (including Princes William and Harry), and various influential figures. The school was founded in 1440 by Henry VI as “Kynge’s College of Our Ladye of Eton besyde Windesore”, and is the largest boarding school in England. From Eaton, in unusually warm weather nearly reaching the 80s, we walked the few hundred yards to Windsor Castle, the royal residence in the English county of Berkshire, which is about 25 miles west of central London. It is strongly associated with the English and succeeding British royal family, and embodies almost a millennium of architectural history. William the Conqueror chose the site for Windsor Castle, high above the River Thames and on the edge of a Saxon hunting ground. He began building at Windsor around 1070, and 16 years later the Castle was complete. The Castle was originally constructed to guard the western approach to London. Before passing through the archway on the left called St. George’s Gate, we admired King Edward III Tower, Lancaster Tower and York Tower. We then explored the Windsor Castle State Apartments and St. George’s Chapel. The State Apartments at Windsor Castle are a series of opulent, ceremonial rooms used by the British Royal Family for official state visits and entertaining. Photos are prohibited, so believe me, while the State Apartments are beautiful, they are smaller and less showy than Versailles. British kings had less power and money than the French monarchs. Also, Windsor Castle was first built as a fortress and British kings had many other smaller homes, so they did not need one giant palace. St. George’s Chapel at Windsor Castle is a top UK royal landmark. Built between 1475 and 1528, it is considered one of the best examples of the “Perpendicular Gothic” style featuring large, bright stained-glass windows and elaborate fan-shaped stone ceilings. St George’s is most notably the spiritual home of the Order of the Garter which was founded in 1348 and is Britain’s oldest and highest order of chivalry . It is also famous as a royal wedding venue and the final resting place for many monarchs, including Queen Elizabeth II, her husband Prince Philip, and her parents (King George VI and the Queen Mother). After walking over 5 miles over hills and cobblestones, unusual for one living in South Florida, my entire body was ready for the return to London via the same train route. At Paddington Station, it was easy to get a cab back to the Rosewood. Exhausted and jet-lagged we returned enjoyed a 3 hour nap, by-passed dinner and rested, preparing for the official start of our trip tomorrow evening. Friday, May 22 After breakfast at the Holburn at Rosewood, we checked in with the Tauck team at the Hotel, met our Cruise Directors and received our Eurostar train tickets for the Channel Crossing on Sunday. We spent the day on our own and walked just 8 minutes in the unseasonably warm weather to the British Museum in the Bloomsbury area of London. We booked in advance since the museum is notoriously one of the busiest attractions in London, welcoming over 6 million visitors a year. The Museum is public and dedicated to human history, art and culture. Its permanent collection of eight million works is the largest in the world. It documents the story of human culture from its beginnings to the present and the Collection is overwhelming. Since we are used to the intense subtropical heat and humidity of Florida, indoor spaces are kept aggressively cold year-round there. At the British Museum visit we were uncomfortable dealing with the hot, stuffy, crowded rooms, so we spent less time than the museum deserved. We did manage to locate the The Rosetta Stone, widely considered the most famous and popular single artifact in the Museum. This 196 BC granodiorite stela is famous for featuring a decree affirming the royal cult of the 13-year-old King Ptolemy V carved in three scripts—hieroglyphs, Demotic, and Ancient Greek—which provided the key to deciphering ancient Egyptian hieroglyphs. Massive Egyptian sculptures commanded our attention, this gallery features massive stone statuary including the colossal bust of Rameses II. Carved from pink and grey granite, this bust weighs 7.5 tons and is about 8.5 feet tall . . . impressive! We strolled back to the hotel and enjoyed a coffee along the way. When we arrived at the hotel ,we took a well-deserved nap and then prepared for the Tauck Welcome Reception and dinner at the hotel. Here we enjoyed a lively cocktail hour and a welcome address by Jennie Churchill. She is the daughter of Winston Churchill’s grandson, Winston (named after the Prime Minister). Jennie provided rare and intimate insight into an extraordinary man who helped chart the course of history. Saturday, May 23rd London Revealed We spent the morning exploring London on an orientation tour of city landmarks such as Big Ben, Westminster, Abbey, and Buckingham Palace on a drive through the city. Our driver sped past the sights of Whitehall and Westminster like he was driving at Talladega, necessitating the use of a few stock photos. We enjoyed a special visit to St Paul’s Anglican Cathedral the seat of the Bishop of London. The cathedral serves as the mother church of the Diocese of London in the Church of England Its dedication in honor of Paul the Apostle dates back to the original cathedral church on this site, founded in AD 604. The high domed present structure was completed in 1710. The cathedral is one of the most famous and recognizable sights of London. Located on Ludgate Hill at the highest point of the City, it has dominated the skyline for more than 300 years. Of special interest is a black marble sarcophagus directly under the Dome that is the final resting place of Admiral Horatio Nelson, who was given a state funeral and a place of honor. Admiral Nelson is arguably Britain’s most celebrated naval commander. The funeral service of Admiral Nelson was the grandest of any non-royal person to that date and the first to be held at St. Paul’s Cathedral on January 9, 1806. He secured a legendary status in London by thwarting Napoleon’s invasion plans and ultimately sacrificing his life at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805 where he was shot and killed at age 47, aboard his flagship, HMS Victory. His quote, “I owe all my success in life to having been always a quarter of an hour before my time.” makes me think I should consider my occasional tardiness a virtue. We continued our orientation tour of London’s most famous landmarks including Big Ben and the Palace of Westminster. It is the city’s oldest royal palace and a World Heritage site. During its lifetime, it’s been a royal residence, a law court and even a penitentiary for menacing MPs. Today, Westminster is the center of the British Government. The Palace of Westminster is the location of the House of Commons and the House of Lords, the two legislative chambers which occupy the building. The prominent tower shown is the Elizabeth Tower, popularly known as Big Ben, which stands 315 feet tall. In the foreground is Westminster Bridge, crossing the River Thames. While zipping through Westminster, we glimpsed Westminster Abbey, formally the Collegiate Church of Saint Peter an Anglican church in the city of London. Since 1066, it has been the location of the coronations of 40 English and British monarchs and a burial site for 18 English, Scottish, and British monarchs. At least 16 royal weddings have taken place at the Abbey since 1100. The drive continued through the city including a drive by of the Red Lion pub in Westminster, the ultimate political watering hole. It is famously situated near 10 Downing Street, Whitehall, and the Houses of Parliament. It is a classic Victorian pub where historical leaders like Winston Churchill have had drinks. There are over 50 “Red Lion” pubs across London, but this one is the real deal. We returned to the hotel for some free time. We stopped by a few shops for some light shopping and then returned to our room to pack as our luggage was scheduled for pickup in the room at 5:30 pm. We then embarked on a private, after-hours visit (without crowds) at Winston Churchill’s War Rooms. During the thick of World War II, bombardment was a constant threat, so Winston Churchill and his government directed the war from a heavily fortified underground command center located in the deep basement of a Whitehall office building. When the war ended in 1945, the 30,000 square foot bunker was sealed and remained undisturbed for many years exactly how it was left. The War Rooms are a time capsule of the Second World War. We explored the labyrinth of narrow corridors and peered into the actual rooms where decisions were made and strategies discussed. During WWII, hundreds of men and women would spend thousands of vital hours working and even sleeping here, as it was the inner sanctum of the British government. Today, wax figures can be found “working” amidst the actual equipment, furniture, maps and papers that were used there. After returning to the hotel, we walked just a few minutes to one Holborn’s hidden gems, The Bountiful Cow, a family-run bar with a steak-oriented menu and a favorite amongst the locals. We were joined by new-found friends Annette and Patrick for an outstanding Ribeye Sandwich and a local IPA. Sunday, May 24 Under the Channel to France We woke to another unseasonably warm day by British standards. The temperatures were headed for record highs in the 90ºs. 2026 has become the first year on record to experience temperatures of 95º or higher on six separate days. We all met at Scarfes Club for the transfer to Pancras train station in London to board the Eurostar train to Paris. Our luggage was already on its way; we would next see it in our Stateroom on the Riverboat. The Pancras station was confused and very crowded. Thankfully, we were able to follow our guide through ticket scanners, security and passport control. After cooling our heels in a crowded waiting area for 1/2 hr, we followed the crowd to the steeply inclined people-mover up to the platform and Coach 9. We found our seats 51 & 52 near the cafe car. We left on time at 12:31 PM and enjoyed a smooth 2 hour and 15 minute ride for passage to France, by way of high-speed train under the English Channel.
The seats were a bit cramped and stiff with no recline feature, but were clean and fairly comfy. Actually, the Amtrak Metroliner from Washington, D.C. to New York is a similar distance of 215 miles, takes over 3 hours and feels more luxurious than Eurostar. We arrived at Gare du Nord in Paris, the busiest railway station in Europe which due to the weather was uncomfortably warm. Usually, we would be whisked away in a Tauck motorcoach to the Riverboat, but the authorities closed the normal access road. We had a long (1/4 mile) walk to the coach in 90º heat and the area around the Paris station was unkept and smelled of urine. But you know me, I don’t complain! You don’t have to drive in and around Paris very long to know that the périphérique, the 35 km beltway that encircles Paris, is more than Europe’s busiest motorway — it’s a psychological barrier. Parisians know that the city proper, is divided into twenty arrondissements, arranged in the elegant snail-shell pattern. The 10th arrondissement is one of the neighborhoods to avoid in Paris. It has become one of the areas to avoid in Paris due to people selling drugs at night. In less than a half hour, we were escorted to the MS Sapphire docked on the Seine in the 15 Arrondissement, just north of Pont du Garigliano and just south of the Eiffel Tower.
The staff greeted us warmly as we boarded the MS Sapphire which boasts 47 cabins, many of which are spacious suites. 85% of the cabins have floor-to-ceiling windows with real French balconies. All cabins are equipped with in-room movies, minibar, adjustable climate control, private bathroom with shower and pampering toiletries. All cabin beds are fitted with 400-thread satin bed linen, mako cotton pillows, 100% cotton blankets and thick pillow top mattresses. We enjoyed one of the best guest-to-staff ratios on Europe’s rivers, with 45 crew members, including a dedicated Tauck Cruise Director and three Tauck Directors traveling with us throughout your journey. Shortly after settling in to our cabin, we met in the Panorama Lounge for a welcome reception, ship orientation and a Captain’s toast. We followed with a welcome dinner in main dining room, the Compass Rose. Here there is open seating where we enjoyed the company of Will and Amy of Long Island. There is also an alternate dining venue, Arthur’s, a more intimate setting offering classic favorites at lunch and dinner and lighter breakfasts in the morning. Here you have the option of dining alfresco on the aft deck. The Eiffel Tower is plainly visible from the Sundeck, where we enjoyed a cocktail after dinner. Here we witnessed the famous Tower sparkle show! Every night after dark, the tower’s golden illumination is joined by 20,000 twinkling light bulbs that put on a dazzling 5-minute display every hour until 1:00 AM. The following days started with breakfast onboard . . . enjoying favorite buffet selections in either the Compass Rose or at Arthur’s. We especially enjoyed the private dining at Arthur’s on the stern deck. Monday, May 25 Paris Orientation
On day 6 of our trip we woke to a beautiful, sunny 73º morning and enjoyed a light breakfast at Arthur’s on the aft deck overlooking the Seine and Paris beyond. After a tour orientation at 9:30. am, we enjoyed a guided coach tour of Paris driving past some of the most historic and iconic sites of the city. The iconic Eiffel Tower is a 1,063-foot wrought-iron lattice structure designed by engineer Gustave Eiffel. The structure consists of over 18,000 iron pieces held together by 2.5 million rivets. Constructed for the 1889 World’s Fair, it was the world’s tallest man-made structure for 41 years. Today, it hosts over seven million annual visitors and features 3 levels, a light show, and sways slightly in the wind. The Arc de Triomphe, is one of the most famous monuments in Paris, France. It is located at the western end of the Champs-Élysées, an avenue known for its theaters, cafés, and luxury shops and as the finish of the Tour de France cycling race. The Arc was commissioned to honor those who fought and died for France during the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars. Le Grand Hôtel usually refers to the famous InterContinental Paris – Le Grand. Located in the heart of Paris, this historic 5-star property sits right across from the Opéra Garnier. Room rates generally start around $500 to $1,200 per night, depending on the season and room view. The Louvre welcomes about 9 million visitors annually, maintaining its title as the world’s most-visited museum. The Louvre holds roughly 480,000 objects in its total collection, with about 35,000 pieces of art on display across its eight departments. You will find The Mona Lisa by Leonardo da Vinci. He started the portrait of Lisa del Giocondo in Florence in 1503 and continued refining it for over a decade. You will also find Venus de Milo, an ancient Greek marble sculpture that was created during the Hellenistic period. Modern consensus places it in the 2nd century BC, perhaps between 160 and 110 BC. Being of Italian heritage, I am quick to note that many of the great things in France originated in Italy. It is known that Italy was the cradle of the Renaissance and therefore its ideas, artists, and chefs heavily contributed to French culture. This exchange was largely catalyzed by Italian nobles marrying into French royalty, most famously Catherine de’ Medici in 1533.
There are 37 bridges that cross the Seine within the city limits of Paris. These structures span the 8 miles of the river as it flows through the capital, connecting the Left and Right banks as well as the city’s islands. Parisian bridges spanning the Seine offer iconic, picturesque views at all hours, combining historic stone and ornate architecture. Notre-Dame, the cathedral of the Archdiocese of Paris is a widely recognized symbol of both the city of Paris and the French nation. About 12 million people visit Notre-Dame annually, making it the most visited monument in Paris. Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris is now fully open to the public. Following a massive restoration after the 2019 fire, the main cathedral reopened in December 2024, with its iconic north and south towers subsequently reopening to visitors. We spent the morning exploring with our local guide before returning to the riverboat for lunch and relaxation aboard the “floating hotel” and prepared for cocktails and dinner. Tuesday May 26 VERSAILLES We spend the night on the MS Sapphire at the dock in Paris and after breakfast we enjoyed a special visit to the stunning Chateau de Versailles. The Palace of Versailles began as a modest hunting lodge for King Louis XIII in 1623. It was vastly expanded starting in 1661 by King Louis XIV, who transformed it into an opulent symbol of absolute monarchy. We were dazzled when our local guide took us inside the palatial estate to see the opulently decorated rooms in the King’s Apartments, including the superb Hall of Mirrors. Marie Antoinette lived a dramatic life as the last Queen of France, moving from Austrian royalty to the lavish palace of Versailles, and finally facing public trial and execution during the French Revolution. The formal Gardens of Versailles span 2,000 acres and were designed for King Louis XIV beginning in the 1660s. They are the ultimate expression of the French formal garden style, with strict geometric symmetry, grand optical perspectives, and human control over nature. We had time to view the Gardens and Fountains, but not nearly enough time to explore 2,000 acres! After schlepping over 4 miles, much of it over cobblestones, Robin suffered an injured left knee. Luckily one of the guests was as Orthopedist and was gracious enough to give a guest room consult; he ruled out significant damage. With palliative care and the help of a borrowed knee brace, Robin was able to soldier on.
Back on board, it was time to depart the dock in Paris and sail on to the next port. The captain first went up river to afford a unique view of a replica of the Statue of Liberty, a quarter-scale model in the Seine River that faces west toward its larger sister statue in New York. The Seine River flows for about 225 to 250 miles from Paris to the English Channel at Le Havre. While the river is 483 miles total from its source in Burgundy to the sea, the winding path from the center of Paris to the coast is about half that length.
Only about 105 miles (170 km) as the crow flies, there are 6 locks on the Lower Seine between Paris and the English Channel. They help manage the water levels over the 240 miles before the river flows into the sea at Le Havre. As we meandered on the river through the ever changing landscape, we enjoyed an on-board Art Lecture covering the work of Impressionist Artists. After cocktail hour, we enjoyed dinner onboard as we continued our sail toward Conflans-Sainte-Honorine.
Wednesday, May 27th VAN GOGH in Auvers-Sur-Oise We were slipping into a relaxed routine, enjoying breakfast with new found friends before embarking an an orientation and then a tour. Today we drove to the town of Auvers-sur-Oise, where Vincent Van Gogh spent his last days. Auvers-sur-Oise is pronounced “Ovaire Sue Waz”. French pronunciation is difficult for many. Nothing about this language remotely makes sense, or is even internally consistent. There so many silent letters and many words have pronunciations which somewhat resemble their spelling, but many words just seems to add a bunch of letters for no apparent reason. I’ll keep trying. Vincent van Gogh died on July 29, 1890, at the the town inn, Auberge Ravoux, after self-inflicted gunshot wound to the abdomen. The abdomen . . . who does that? He suffered for 2 days before succumbing to the untreated infection. The town has hardly changed since, so you will be able to recognize scenes from his paintings. People consider Vincent van Gogh a great artist because he revolutionized how color and texture are used to convey raw human emotion rather than just replicating reality. His groundbreaking post-impressionist style—marked by thick, swirling brushstrokes—laid the foundation for modern art and made his work universally compelling. He only sold one painting of his in his lifetime and his paintings didn’t really take off until after he passed away. This afternoon, we set sail to Vernon snaking downstream and enjoying the scenery along the way.
Thursday. May 28th Monet’s Home and Garden in Giverny After arriving in Vernon for the night, we woke to another picture perfect day and drove the short 9 miles to Giverny for an early Tauck- Exclusive opening visit today. We marvelled at Claude Monet’s house and exquisite gardens, which started with a tour of the magnificent water-lily pond, vibrant floral gardens and the arched iconic bridge. The fragrant, tranquil setting was awe-inspiring and left us overcome with a feeling of inner peace.
Claude Monet’s house is the famous pink and green home where the master painter lived and worked for 43 years. The site features his restored living quarters, the iconic water-lily pond, and colorful floral gardens. We walked through the pathways of his many flower gardens, located directly in front of the house which were filled with striking, color-coordinated flower beds, rose-covered arches, and symmetrical paths. They were packed with seasonal blooms like tulips, irises, poppies, and dahlias. Monet lived in a blended home with eight children featuring cozy living spaces, a bright yellow dining room, and a blue kitchen. During our visit we were immersed into the house where Monet lived and painted and wandered inside rooms that showcase his private furnishings and collections.
Just a short walk from Monet’s home, in the heart of the village, the Museum of Impresionisms explores the entire history of this iconic late 19th century art movement. We began our self-guided tour by walking through striking, monochrome garden “rooms” designed to echo a living canvas. Inside the low-profile, contemporary building, the bright, airy galleries explore the history and global reach of Impressionism through rotating world-class exhibitions. Fortunately, many of Monet’s works were on exhibit.
After lunch aboard ship, we spent the afternoon exploring Vernon as it’s a fabulous place for walks. Along the way, we visited a pharmacy for a wrap to support Robin’s knee. Rather than set off on a bicycle trip from Vernon to Giverny before a short drive to a Chateau for a cocktail reception, we chose to nap in lieu of the cycling and alcohol. However, this evening we did enjoy the Chef’s signature dinner in the Compass Rose dining room.
Friday, May 29 Medieval Rouen This morning we woke in Rouen, it is famous as the site where Joan of Arc was tried and burned in 1431. Her presence is immortalized everywhere in the town, still brimming with medieval architecture and Gothic spires. Most impressive was the magnificent Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Rouen. It is famous for its three towers, each in a different style. The cathedral, built and rebuilt over a period of more than eight hundred years, has a place in art history as the subject of a series of painting by Claude Monet. We strolled through the medieval streets and noted the clock installed in a Renaissance arch crossing the Rue du Gros-Horloge. We were impressed by the famous Le Gros-Horloge astronomical clock, a grand 14th-century astronomical clock, one of the oldest in France, the movement having been made in 1389. We visited he historic old market square where Joan of Arc perished. A national heroine of France, at age 18 Joan of Arc led the French army to victory over the English at Orléans. Captured a year later, Joan was burned at the stake as a heretic by the English and their French collaborators. A pro-English church court found her guilty of heresy since she was wearing men’s clothes in battle. Wearing men’s military attire violated traditional gender norms in the eyes of this medieval court justifying conviction and immolation at the stake . . . ladies, you might want to get rid of those Doc Martins! After lunch onboard, we had free time to enjoy free time to explore the city of Rouen, but a well-deserved rest was enjoyed in the lounge with libation and conversation. This evening we were in for another Tauck special event, dinner and music at Château du Taillis! The castle was built in 1530 in an Italian Renaissance style on the foundations of a fortified mansion of the 13th century. The evening began with a chamber music reception on the park grounds, followed by a special dinner, each course was accompanied by the music of Vivaldi, Beethoven, Mozart, Pleyel and Bach. There was only one downside, it was a bit warm in the dining rooms. France has a complicated relationship with air conditioning, defined by cultural resistance, strict building rules, and a fierce political debate over climate change. Only about 25% of French households have air conditioning, lagging far behind other nations. We put those thoughts aside and enjoyed a lovely meal with great companions. Saturday, May 30 Caen Memorial and Honfleur Le Havre is a major port city in the Seine-Maritime department in the Normandy region of northern France. It is situated on the right bank of the estuary of the river Seine and was almost completely rebuilt after the terrible destruction wrought in World War II. From Le havre we travelled about 1 hour and 20 minutes to visit the Mémorial de Caen. The Memorial commemorates the sacrifices of WWII and features a Peace Museum and memorial gardens dedicated to the American, British and Canadian forces that liberated France.
The Caen Memorial Museum with over 14,000 square feet is the largest and most important museum in Normandy, dedicated to the history of World War II and D-Day. The museum offers a comprehensive understanding of the Normandy Landing, D‑Day, and World War II within both regional and global contexts. The exhibits rely heavily on immersive scenography, film archives, photographs, and changing installations. We then continued back to the charming fishing port of Honfleur, where early Impressionists Monet, Daubigny and Corot developed their painting style. There we enjoyed a local lunch at Alycyone, a favorite of the locals. The service was friendly and efficient and the food delicious. This is one of those times when Tauck really shines, not only with great suggestions, but giving us an allowance in Euros to pay for the meal! After a stroll around the town we boarded the coach for the trip back to the Riverboat. It was time for a cocktail and an immersive lecture on D-Day by a local expert. Sunday, May 31 Normandy Beaches For the first in twelve days, we woke to overcast and drizzle, appropriate for our visit to the Normandy Beaches. On the way, we picked up local guide and WWII history expert, Cristoph, in Caen on the way to Pointe du Hoc. On the trip, Cristoph regaled us with his remarkable knowledge of military history and pertinent anecdotes. We began our tour at Pointe du Hoc, where US Army Rangers scaled the high cliffs to seize German artillery pieces firing on American troops landing at Omaha and Utah beaches on June 6, 1944. Led by Lieutenant Colonel James E. Rudder, 225 Rangers used rope ladders, grappling hooks, and rocket-propelled lines to climb the towering limestone cliffs of Pointe du Hoc under direct enemy fire. What incredible valor these men showed in scaling these cliffs , eventually knocking out the ability of these guns to fire. We then rode down to the actual beaches where these men landed and suffered such tragic loss. Memorials on the beach ensure that future generations their sacrifice and contribution. Awe-struck by contemplating the valor of these men, we welcomed the opportunity to retire to the Château La Chenevière, a five-star hotel for lunch. This former 18th-century manor house, nestled in a romantic park, welcomed us with luxury and serenity. After lunch, we paused at Omaha Beach to visit the poignant Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial, the final resting place for more than 9,300 troops who lost their lives in World War II. The Cemetery and Memorial are situated on a bluff overlooking the beach. The tranquil setting and its history were moving. I was one of two veterans in our group chosen to place a wreath of honor for Sgt. Raymond Hoback of Virginia, one of the fallen soldiers on D-Day. The central monument features the majestic 22-foot-tall bronze sculpture titled “Spirit of American Youth Rising from the Waves” created by American sculptor Donald De Lue. It symbolizes the youth, bravery, and sacrifice of the U.S. service members who fought in World War. As we toured the Normandy beaches, the riverboat moved upriver toward Paris. We re-boarded the riverboat in Caudebec-en-Caux to continue our cruise, just in time to freshen up and partake in conversation and a cocktail before enjoying another sumptuous meal at the Compass Rose. Monday. June 1 Les Andeles, Cider & Calvados
We arrived in Les Andelys this morning, a French township consisting of two fishing villages at a scenic bend in the river where the imposing ruins of Chateau Gaillard rise on a cliff. The castle was built in 1198 by Richard the Lionheart, Duke of Normandy, to defend against an invasion from the King of France. A marvel of engineering, the fortress was constructed in only a year, using thousands of workers; it was thought to be impervious, but fell after a siege in 1204. We visited the castle and town on a walking tour including Church of Saint-Sauveur in Petit-Andely a 13th-century Gothic church built as a chapel for workers constructing Château Gaillard under Richard the Lionheart. Featuring a 155 foot spire, it blends medieval architecture with Baroque and Renaissance artistry. Inside, it houses stained glass windows from the 14th to 20th centuries and a historic 1674 organ with nearly all original pipes. On our way to an exclusive visit to a local cider house, we glimpsed the surprising beauty of flax fields. Normandy produces nearly 50% of the world’s high-quality flax fiber, transforming the landscape into stunning stretches of “blue gold”. For a brief window in late May to mid-June, fields across this region burst into vibrant, pale-blue blossoms for an annual spectacle that lasts only a couple of weeks. Flax is a versatile plant used primarily to make linen fabric from its stems and nutritional flaxseeds or linseed oil from its seeds. We enjoyed our visit local cider house to learn about the many variations of Norman cider and Calvados, an apple brandy renowned in this region. Of course we enjoyed a tasting of both.
After lunch on board, we set sail for Paris. We enjoyed perfect 75º sunny weather in the afternoon on the sundeck traveling through the stunning Normandy countryside on the lovely, meandering Seine River . . . Heavenly!
After enjoying our time in the sun reading and relaxing on board we enjoyed our leisurely transition through freshening up followed by cocktails. We then joined the Captain for a farewell reception followed by dinner. We bid the crew farewell and although tips are included, we always recognize superlative service and, of course, the crew was recognized for their efforts on this trip. We showed our appreciation for the fantastic experience. Tuesday. June 2 Return Home Our luggage was out by 8:00 am and we waited just a short time in the lounge until our complimentary transportation to the Paris Charles de Gaulle airport arrived. Our fabulous week of near perfect weather was punctuated by the steady light rain, but we were quickly swept away in a private black Mercedes sedan and on our way home. The heavy Parisian traffic was no match for our driver and we arrived at the airport in less than one hour. Check-in, security and passport control went smoothly. The need to board a bus to board the aircraft was a downer and the fact that we sat on the runway for an hour and a half was not what we had planned; however, the seven hour flight to JFK was without further incident and our connection to Tampa was on time. This trip has completely changed how I view France. The blending of intimate access to Normandy and Paris with all-inclusive luxury was an incredible experience. The guided tours of historic D-Day beaches and Monet’s gardens in Giverny were especially memorable. We have already booked another Tauck trip to experience the Grand Canadian Rockies with a small group tour including Victoria, Vancouver, Jasper, Banff, Calgary with an overnight rail journey through the awe-inspiring Rocky Mountains. Maybe you can join us!!
Getting There:
An audio guide added detailed commentary about the myriad of spaces in the war rooms and the adjacent Churchill Museum, a biographical museum exploring Churchill’s life. The museum is set out in chronological chunks, beginning with Churchill’s appointment as prime minister in 1940 and going up to the end of his life in 1965 before starting again with his childhood and returning to May 1940.
Van Gogh’s mental state was incredibly troubled, leading to his famous ear mutilation and institutionalization and funky suicide. He struggled with severe recurrent psychosis, intense mood swings, and possibly temporal lobe epilepsy or bipolar disorder. His excessive consumption of absinthe and alcohol is also widely believed to have exacerbated his psychotic episodes. 
To ward off psychosis, and lift our spirits, we visited the Musée de L’Absinthe for a generous sample of Absinthe, a highly potent, anise-flavored spirit distilled from botanicals, most notably the flowers and leaves of Artemisia absinthium (grande wormwood), along with green anise and fennel. Anisette and absinthe both taste like black licorice because they share anise flavors, but anisette is a sweet, lower-alcohol liqueur. My maternal grandmother, Guiseppina, often served too much Anisette to the family after Sunday dinners. . . it was my first experience with intoxication . . . I loved my grandmother!
- We boarded the MS Sapphire, a Tauck riverboat, for a 7-night voyage along the Seine. Tauck ships are notably more intimate and spacious, with fewer guests on board and more personal service. The ships feature spacious cabins with French balconies, a relaxed, open-seating dining policy, and multiple Tauck directors on board to manage every logistical detail.
- Notable Stops & Excursions:
- Giverny: Access to Monet’s Gardens before they open to the general public.
- Rouen: Walking tour featuring the city’s stunning Gothic architecture and historical ties to Joan of Arc.
- Normandy: Moving, full-day excursion to the WWII D-Day landing beaches, including Omaha Beach, and the Normandy American Cemetery.
- Les Andelys: Sailing past the dramatic white chalk cliffs and the ruins of Château Gaillard.
Getting There:
Direct flights from Tampa to London take approximately 8 to 9 hours, covering a distance of 4427 miles along a great circle route that goes up the East Coast of the US, over Newfoundland and the Atlantic, before arriving over Ireland/Wales and descending into London.
Virgin Atlantic Airline offers a non-stop 8.5 hour flight from Tampa to Heathrow flight at 8:05 pm, but we were delayed 1.5 hours in Tampa due to lightning which interrupted baggage loading, provisioning and fueling. Even though we upgraded, our seats they were lumpy and a bit cramped. We have had great experiences with Virgin Australia in the past, but Virgin Atlantic is a separate corporate entity, which apparently have the same staffing guidelines as Heinrich Himmler. The attendants weren’t wearing black shirts, but they did bark orders about seatbelts and window shades on a regular basis.
Wednesday, May 20
LONDON
Thankfully, but with little sleep, we arrived at Heathrow airport in London, England at 11:05 am BST (British Summer Time) and navigated through immigration, baggage pick up and customs smoothly, where our driver was waiting to deliver us to the hotel in heavy traffic. London which holds the title for the most congested city in Europe, with drivers losing an average of 101 hours to gridlock annually. The nightmare is due to unavoidable mix of ancient, winding street layouts, intense population density, and strict traffic-calming measures that heavily penalize car use.
After successfully navigating traffic, we arrived at the Rosewood London, an ultra-luxury, five-star hotel situated in a historic Edwardian building in the heart of Covent Garden in London’s West End. We drove under stone arches into the stunning Edwardian cobblestone courtyard and were promptly greeted warmly by the doorman who tended to our luggage immediately and guided us to the front desk to several waiting hosts. We were checked in quickly and escorted to our room without delay.
Thursday, May 21
We arranged a full day, guided Windsor Castle Tour through Viator in advance, but that required meeting Vincent, our personal guide, at Paddington station. The doorman summoned a Black Cab, London’s official carriage, known for their spacious interiors and highly trained drivers. Fares are metered, offering a secure but premium ride. London black cab drivers train for an average of three to four years to pass “The Knowledge”, a notoriously grueling navigational examination. Candidates are required to memorize approximately 25,000 streets and thousands of landmarks within a six-mile radius of the city.
We spotted Vincent, our personal guide, at the entrance of Padding Station and boarded the 10 am train. During the trip, he explained our plan for the day and gave a detailed account of the pertinent history. After a transfer at Slough, we arrived at Windsor station about an hour later. We were first struck by the imposing wall and Henry III Tower built in the 13th Century.
Eton College is a public school providing boarding education for boys aged 13–18, located in Eton, Berkshire. Eton College, is a prestigious, all-boys British boarding school. It is world-renowned for its rigorous academics, rich traditions, and legacy of producing global leaders, having educated 20 British Prime Ministers, numerous royals (including Princes William and Harry), and various influential figures.
The school was founded in 1440 by Henry VI as “Kynge’s College of Our Ladye of Eton besyde Windesore”, and is the largest boarding school in England.
From Eaton, in unusually warm weather nearly reaching the 80s, we walked the few hundred yards to Windsor Castle, the royal residence in the English county of Berkshire, which is about 25 miles west of central London. It is strongly associated with the English and succeeding British royal family, and embodies almost a millennium of architectural history.
William the Conqueror chose the site for Windsor Castle, high above the River Thames and on the edge of a Saxon hunting ground. He began building at Windsor around 1070, and 16 years later the Castle was complete. The Castle was originally constructed to guard the western approach to London. Before passing through the archway on the left called St. George’s Gate, we admired King Edward III Tower, Lancaster Tower and York Tower. We then explored the Windsor Castle State Apartments and St. George’s Chapel.
The State Apartments at Windsor Castle are a series of opulent, ceremonial rooms used by the British Royal Family for official state visits and entertaining. Photos are prohibited, so believe me, while the State Apartments are beautiful, they are smaller and less showy than Versailles. British kings had less power and money than the French monarchs. Also, Windsor Castle was first built as a fortress and British kings had many other smaller homes, so they did not need one giant palace.
St. George’s Chapel at Windsor Castle is a top UK royal landmark. Built between 1475 and 1528, it is considered one of the best examples of the “Perpendicular Gothic” style featuring large, bright stained-glass windows and elaborate fan-shaped stone ceilings.
St George’s is most notably the spiritual home of the Order of the Garter which was founded in 1348 and is Britain’s oldest and highest order of chivalry . It is also famous as a royal wedding venue and the final resting place for many monarchs, including Queen Elizabeth II, her husband Prince Philip, and her parents (King George VI and the Queen Mother).
After walking over 5 miles over hills and cobblestones, unusual for one living in South Florida, my entire body was ready for the return to London via the same train route. At Paddington Station, it was easy to get a cab back to the Rosewood. Exhausted and jet-lagged we returned enjoyed a 3 hour nap, by-passed dinner and rested, preparing for the official start of our trip tomorrow evening.
Friday, May 22
After breakfast at the Holburn at Rosewood, we checked in with the Tauck team at the Hotel, met our Cruise Directors and received our Eurostar train tickets for the Channel Crossing on Sunday. We spent the day on our own and walked just 8 minutes in the unseasonably warm weather to the British Museum in the Bloomsbury area of London. We booked in advance since the museum is notoriously one of the busiest attractions in London, welcoming over 6 million visitors a year.
The Museum is public and dedicated to human history, art and culture. Its permanent collection of eight million works is the largest in the world. It documents the story of human culture from its beginnings to the present and the Collection is overwhelming. Since we are used to the intense subtropical heat and humidity of Florida, indoor spaces are kept aggressively cold year-round there. At the British Museum visit we were uncomfortable dealing with the hot, stuffy, crowded rooms, so we spent less time than the museum deserved.
We did manage to locate the The Rosetta Stone, widely considered the most famous and popular single artifact in the Museum. This 196 BC granodiorite stela is famous for featuring a decree affirming the royal cult of the 13-year-old King Ptolemy V carved in three scripts—hieroglyphs, Demotic, and Ancient Greek—which provided the key to deciphering ancient Egyptian hieroglyphs.
Massive Egyptian sculptures commanded our attention, this gallery features massive stone statuary including the colossal bust of Rameses II. Carved from pink and grey granite, this bust weighs 7.5 tons and is about 8.5 feet tall . . . impressive!
We strolled back to the hotel and enjoyed a coffee along the way. When we arrived at the hotel ,we took a well-deserved nap and then prepared for the Tauck Welcome Reception and dinner at the hotel. Here we enjoyed a lively cocktail hour and a welcome address by Jennie Churchill. She is the daughter of Winston Churchill’s grandson, Winston (named after the Prime Minister). Jennie provided rare and intimate insight into an extraordinary man who helped chart the course of history.
Saturday, May 23rd
London Revealed
We spent the morning exploring London on an orientation tour of city landmarks such as Big Ben, Westminster, Abbey, and Buckingham Palace on a drive through the city. Our driver sped past the sights of Whitehall and Westminster like he was driving at Talladega, necessitating the use of a few stock photos.
We enjoyed a special visit to St Paul’s Anglican Cathedral the seat of the Bishop of London. The cathedral serves as the mother church of the Diocese of London in the Church of England Its dedication in honor of Paul the Apostle dates back to the original cathedral church on this site, founded in AD 604. The high domed present structure was completed in 1710.
The cathedral is one of the most famous and recognizable sights of London. Located on Ludgate Hill at the highest point of the City, it has dominated the skyline for more than 300 years.
Of special interest is a black marble sarcophagus directly under the Dome that is the final resting place of Admiral Horatio Nelson, who was given a state funeral and a place of honor. Admiral Nelson is arguably Britain’s most celebrated naval commander.
The funeral service of Admiral Nelson was the grandest of any non-royal person to that date and the first to be held at St. Paul’s Cathedral on January 9, 1806. He secured a legendary status in London by thwarting Napoleon’s invasion plans and ultimately sacrificing his life at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805 where he was shot and killed at age 47, aboard his flagship, HMS Victory. His quote, “I owe all my success in life to having been always a quarter of an hour before my time.” makes me think I should consider my occasional tardiness a virtue.
We continued our orientation tour of London’s most famous landmarks including Big Ben and the Palace of Westminster. It is the city’s oldest royal palace and a World Heritage site. During its lifetime, it’s been a royal residence, a law court and even a penitentiary for menacing MPs. Today, Westminster is the center of the British Government.
The Palace of Westminster is the location of the House of Commons and the House of Lords, the two legislative chambers which occupy the building. The prominent tower shown is the Elizabeth Tower, popularly known as Big Ben, which stands 315 feet tall. In the foreground is Westminster Bridge, crossing the River Thames.
While zipping through Westminster, we glimpsed Westminster Abbey, formally the Collegiate Church of Saint Peter an Anglican church in the city of London. Since 1066, it has been the location of the coronations of 40 English and British monarchs and a burial site for 18 English, Scottish, and British monarchs. At least 16 royal weddings have taken place at the Abbey since 1100.
The drive continued through the city including a drive by of the Red Lion pub in Westminster, the ultimate political watering hole. It is famously situated near 10 Downing Street, Whitehall, and the Houses of Parliament. It is a classic Victorian pub where historical leaders like Winston Churchill have had drinks. There are over 50 “Red Lion” pubs across London, but this one is the real deal.
We returned to the hotel for some free time. We stopped by a few shops for some light shopping and then returned to our room to pack as our luggage was scheduled for pickup in the room at 5:30 pm.
We then embarked on a private, after-hours visit (without crowds) at Winston Churchill’s War Rooms. During the thick of World War II, bombardment was a constant threat, so Winston Churchill and his government directed the war from a heavily fortified underground command center located in the deep basement of a Whitehall office building. When the war ended in 1945, the 30,000 square foot bunker was sealed and remained undisturbed for many years exactly how it was left.
The War Rooms are a time capsule of the Second World War. We explored the labyrinth of narrow corridors and peered into the actual rooms where decisions were made and strategies discussed. During WWII, hundreds of men and women would spend thousands of vital hours working and even sleeping here, as it was the inner sanctum of the British government. Today, wax figures can be found “working” amidst the actual equipment, furniture, maps and papers that were used there.
An audio guide added detailed commentary about the myriad of spaces in the war rooms and the adjacent Churchill Museum, a biographical museum exploring Churchill’s life. The museum is set out in chronological chunks, beginning with Churchill’s appointment as prime minister in 1940 and going up to the end of his life in 1965 before starting again with his childhood and returning to May 1940.
After returning to the hotel, we walked just a few minutes to one Holborn’s hidden gems, The Bountiful Cow, a family-run bar with a steak-oriented menu and a favorite amongst the locals. We were joined by new-found friends Annette and Patrick for an outstanding Ribeye Sandwich and a local IPA.
Sunday, May 24
Under the Channel to France
We woke to another unseasonably warm day by British standards. The temperatures were headed for record highs in the 90ºs. 2026 has become the first year on record to experience temperatures of 95º or higher on six separate days.
We all met at Scarfes Club for the transfer to Pancras train station in London to board the Eurostar train to Paris. Our luggage was already on its way; we would next see it in our Stateroom on the Riverboat. The Pancras station was confused and very crowded. Thankfully, we were able to follow our guide through ticket scanners, security and passport control. After cooling our heels in a crowded waiting area for 1/2 hr, we followed the crowd to the steeply inclined people-mover up to the platform and Coach 9. We found our seats 51 & 52 near the cafe car. We left on time at 12:31 PM and enjoyed a smooth 2 hour and 15 minute ride for passage to France, by way of high-speed train under the English Channel.
The seats were a bit cramped and stiff with no recline feature, but were clean and fairly comfy. Actually, the Amtrak Metroliner from Washington, D.C. to New York is a similar distance of 215 miles, takes over 3 hours and feels more luxurious than Eurostar.
We arrived at Gare du Nord in Paris, the busiest railway station in Europe which due to the weather was uncomfortably warm. Usually, we would be whisked away in a Tauck motorcoach to the Riverboat, but the authorities closed the normal access road. We had a long (1/4 mile) walk to the coach in 90º heat and the area around the Paris station was unkept and smelled of urine. But you know me, I don’t complain!
You don’t have to drive in and around Paris very long to know that the périphérique, the 35 km beltway that encircles Paris, is more than Europe’s busiest motorway — it’s a psychological barrier. Parisians know that the city proper, is divided into twenty arrondissements, arranged in the elegant snail-shell pattern.
The 10th arrondissement is one of the neighborhoods to avoid in Paris. It has become one of the areas to avoid in Paris due to people selling drugs at night.
In less than a half hour, we were escorted to the MS Sapphire docked on the Seine in the 15 Arrondissement, just north of Pont du Garigliano and just south of the Eiffel Tower.
The staff greeted us warmly as we boarded the MS Sapphire which boasts 47 cabins, many of which are spacious suites. 85% of the cabins have floor-to-ceiling windows with real French balconies. All cabins are equipped with in-room movies, minibar, adjustable climate control, private bathroom with shower and pampering toiletries. All cabin beds are fitted with 400-thread satin bed linen, mako cotton pillows, 100% cotton blankets and thick pillow top mattresses.
We enjoyed one of the best guest-to-staff ratios on Europe’s rivers, with 45 crew members, including a dedicated Tauck Cruise Director and three Tauck Directors traveling with us throughout your journey.
Shortly after settling in to our cabin, we met in the Panorama Lounge for a welcome reception, ship orientation and a Captain’s toast. We followed with a welcome dinner in main dining room, the Compass Rose. Here there is open seating where we enjoyed the company of Will and Amy of Long Island.
There is also an alternate dining venue, Arthur’s, a more intimate setting offering classic favorites at lunch and dinner and lighter breakfasts in the morning. Here you have the option of dining alfresco on the aft deck.
The Eiffel Tower is plainly visible from the Sundeck, where we enjoyed a cocktail after dinner. Here we witnessed the famous Tower sparkle show! Every night after dark, the tower’s golden illumination is joined by 20,000 twinkling light bulbs that put on a dazzling 5-minute display every hour until 1:00 AM.
The following days started with breakfast onboard . . . enjoying favorite buffet selections in either the Compass Rose or at Arthur’s. We especially enjoyed the private dining at Arthur’s on the stern deck.
Monday, May 25
Paris Orientation
On day 6 of our trip we woke to a beautiful, sunny 73º morning and enjoyed a light breakfast at Arthur’s on the aft deck overlooking the Seine and Paris beyond. After a tour orientation at 9:30. am, we enjoyed a guided coach tour of Paris driving past some of the most historic and iconic sites of the city.
The iconic Eiffel Tower is a 1,063-foot wrought-iron lattice structure designed by engineer Gustave Eiffel. The structure consists of over 18,000 iron pieces held together by 2.5 million rivets. Constructed for the 1889 World’s Fair, it was the world’s tallest man-made structure for 41 years. Today, it hosts over seven million annual visitors and features 3 levels, a light show, and sways slightly in the wind.
The Arc de Triomphe, is one of the most famous monuments in Paris, France. It is located at the western end of the Champs-Élysées, an avenue known for its theaters, cafés, and luxury shops and as the finish of the Tour de France cycling race. The Arc was commissioned to honor those who fought and died for France during the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars.
Le Grand Hôtel usually refers to the famous InterContinental Paris – Le Grand. Located in the heart of Paris, this historic 5-star property sits right across from the Opéra Garnier. Room rates generally start around $500 to $1,200 per night, depending on the season and room view.
The Louvre welcomes about 9 million visitors annually, maintaining its title as the world’s most-visited museum. The Louvre holds roughly 480,000 objects in its total collection, with about 35,000 pieces of art on display across its eight departments. You will find The Mona Lisa by Leonardo da Vinci. He started the portrait of Lisa del Giocondo in Florence in 1503 and continued refining it for over a decade. You will also find Venus de Milo, an ancient Greek marble sculpture that was created during the Hellenistic period. Modern consensus places it in the 2nd century BC, perhaps between 160 and 110 BC.
Being of Italian heritage, I am quick to note that many of the great things in France originated in Italy. It is known that Italy was the cradle of the Renaissance and therefore its ideas, artists, and chefs heavily contributed to French culture. This exchange was largely catalyzed by Italian nobles marrying into French royalty, most famously Catherine de’ Medici in 1533.
There are 37 bridges that cross the Seine within the city limits of Paris. These structures span the 8 miles of the river as it flows through the capital, connecting the Left and Right banks as well as the city’s islands. Parisian bridges spanning the Seine offer iconic, picturesque views at all hours, combining historic stone and ornate architecture.
Notre-Dame, the cathedral of the Archdiocese of Paris is a widely recognized symbol of both the city of Paris and the French nation. About 12 million people visit Notre-Dame annually, making it the most visited monument in Paris.
Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris is now fully open to the public. Following a massive restoration after the 2019 fire, the main cathedral reopened in December 2024, with its iconic north and south towers subsequently reopening to visitors. We spent the morning exploring with our local guide before returning to the riverboat for lunch and relaxation aboard the “floating hotel” and prepared for cocktails and dinner.
Tuesday May 26
VERSAILLES
We spend the night on the MS Sapphire at the dock in Paris and after breakfast we enjoyed a special visit to the stunning Chateau de Versailles. The Palace of Versailles began as a modest hunting lodge for King Louis XIII in 1623. It was vastly expanded starting in 1661 by King Louis XIV, who transformed it into an opulent symbol of absolute monarchy.
We were dazzled when our local guide took us inside the palatial estate to see the opulently decorated rooms in the King’s Apartments, including the superb Hall of Mirrors.
Marie Antoinette lived a dramatic life as the last Queen of France, moving from Austrian royalty to the lavish palace of Versailles, and finally facing public trial and execution during the French Revolution.
The formal Gardens of Versailles span 2,000 acres and were designed for King Louis XIV beginning in the 1660s. They are the ultimate expression of the French formal garden style, with strict geometric symmetry, grand optical perspectives, and human control over nature. We had time to view the Gardens and Fountains, but not nearly enough time to explore 2,000 acres!
After schlepping over 4 miles, much of it over cobblestones, Robin suffered an injured left knee. Luckily one of the guests was as Orthopedist and was gracious enough to give a guest room consult; he ruled out significant damage. With palliative care and the help of a borrowed knee brace, Robin was able to soldier on.
Back on board, it was time to depart the dock in Paris and sail on to the next port. The captain first went up river to afford a unique view of a replica of the Statue of Liberty, a quarter-scale model in the Seine River that faces west toward its larger sister statue in New York.
The Seine River flows for about 225 to 250 miles from Paris to the English Channel at Le Havre. While the river is 483 miles total from its source in Burgundy to the sea, the winding path from the center of Paris to the coast is about half that length.
Only about 105 miles (170 km) as the crow flies, there are 6 locks on the Lower Seine between Paris and the English Channel. They help manage the water levels over the 240 miles before the river flows into the sea at Le Havre.
As we meandered on the river through the ever changing landscape, we enjoyed an on-board Art Lecture covering the work of Impressionist Artists. After cocktail hour, we enjoyed dinner onboard as we continued our sail toward Conflans-Sainte-Honorine.
Wednesday, May 27th
VAN GOGH in Auvers-Sur-Oise
We were slipping into a relaxed routine, enjoying breakfast with new found friends before embarking an an orientation and then a tour. Today we drove to the town of Auvers-sur-Oise, where Vincent Van Gogh spent his last days.
Auvers-sur-Oise is pronounced “Ovaire Sue Waz”. French pronunciation is difficult for many. Nothing about this language remotely makes sense, or is even internally consistent. There so many silent letters and many words have pronunciations which somewhat resemble their spelling, but many words just seems to add a bunch of letters for no apparent reason. I’ll keep trying.
Vincent van Gogh died on July 29, 1890, at the the town inn, Auberge Ravoux, after self-inflicted gunshot wound to the abdomen. The abdomen . . . who does that? He suffered for 2 days before succumbing to the untreated infection. The town has hardly changed since, so you will be able to recognize scenes from his paintings.
Van Gogh’s mental state was incredibly troubled, leading to his famous ear mutilation and institutionalization and funky suicide. He struggled with severe recurrent psychosis, intense mood swings, and possibly temporal lobe epilepsy or bipolar disorder. His excessive consumption of absinthe and alcohol is also widely believed to have exacerbated his psychotic episodes. People consider Vincent van Gogh a great artist because he revolutionized how color and texture are used to convey raw human emotion rather than just replicating reality. His groundbreaking post-impressionist style—marked by thick, swirling brushstrokes—laid the foundation for modern art and made his work universally compelling. He only sold one painting of his in his lifetime and his paintings didn’t really take off until after he passed away.
To ward off psychosis, and lift our spirits, we visited the Musée de L’Absinthe for a generous sample of Absinthe, a highly potent, anise-flavored spirit distilled from botanicals, most notably the flowers and leaves of Artemisia absinthium (grande wormwood), along with green anise and fennel. Anisette and absinthe both taste like black licorice because they share anise flavors, but anisette is a sweet, lower-alcohol liqueur. My maternal grandmother, Guiseppina, often served too much Anisette to the family after Sunday dinners. . . it was my first experience with intoxication . . . I loved my grandmother!
This afternoon, we set sail to Vernon snaking downstream and enjoying the scenery along the way.
Thursday. May 28th
Monet’s Home and Garden in Giverny
After arriving in Vernon for the night, we woke to another picture perfect day and drove the short 9 miles to Giverny for an early Tauck- Exclusive opening visit today. We marvelled at Claude Monet’s house and exquisite gardens, which started with a tour of the magnificent water-lily pond, vibrant floral gardens and the arched iconic bridge. The fragrant, tranquil setting was awe-inspiring and left us overcome with a feeling of inner peace.
Claude Monet’s house is the famous pink and green home where the master painter lived and worked for 43 years. The site features his restored living quarters, the iconic water-lily pond, and colorful floral gardens.
We walked through the pathways of his many flower gardens, located directly in front of the house which were filled with striking, color-coordinated flower beds, rose-covered arches, and symmetrical paths. They were packed with seasonal blooms like tulips, irises, poppies, and dahlias.
Monet lived in a blended home with eight children featuring cozy living spaces, a bright yellow dining room, and a blue kitchen. During our visit we were immersed into the house where Monet lived and painted and wandered inside rooms that showcase his private furnishings and collections.
Just a short walk from Monet’s home, in the heart of the village, the Museum of Impresionisms explores the entire history of this iconic late 19th century art movement. We began our self-guided tour by walking through striking, monochrome garden “rooms” designed to echo a living canvas. Inside the low-profile, contemporary building, the bright, airy galleries explore the history and global reach of Impressionism through rotating world-class exhibitions. Fortunately, many of Monet’s works were on exhibit.
After lunch aboard ship, we spent the afternoon exploring Vernon as it’s a fabulous place for walks. Along the way, we visited a pharmacy for a wrap to support Robin’s knee. Rather than set off on a bicycle trip from Vernon to Giverny before a short drive to a Chateau for a cocktail reception, we chose to nap in lieu of the cycling and alcohol. However, this evening we did enjoy the Chef’s signature dinner in the Compass Rose dining room.
Friday, May 29
Medieval Rouen
This morning we woke in Rouen, it is famous as the site where Joan of Arc was tried and burned in 1431. Her presence is immortalized everywhere in the town, still brimming with medieval architecture and Gothic spires.
Most impressive was the magnificent Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Rouen. It is famous for its three towers, each in a different style. The cathedral, built and rebuilt over a period of more than eight hundred years, has a place in art history as the subject of a series of painting by Claude Monet.
We strolled through the medieval streets and noted the clock installed in a Renaissance arch crossing the Rue du Gros-Horloge. We were impressed by the famous Le Gros-Horloge astronomical clock, a grand 14th-century astronomical clock, one of the oldest in France, the movement having been made in 1389.
We visited he historic old market square where Joan of Arc perished. A national heroine of France, at age 18 Joan of Arc led the French army to victory over the English at Orléans. Captured a year later, Joan was burned at the stake as a heretic by the English and their French collaborators. A pro-English church court found her guilty of heresy since she was wearing men’s clothes in battle. Wearing men’s military attire violated traditional gender norms in the eyes of this medieval court justifying conviction and immolation at the stake . . . ladies, you might want to get rid of those Doc Martins!
After lunch onboard, we had free time to enjoy free time to explore the city of Rouen, but a well-deserved rest was enjoyed in the lounge with libation and conversation.
This evening we were in for another Tauck special event, dinner and music at Château du Taillis! The castle was built in 1530 in an Italian Renaissance style on the foundations of a fortified mansion of the 13th century.
The evening began with a chamber music reception on the park grounds, followed by a special dinner, each course was accompanied by the music of Vivaldi, Beethoven, Mozart, Pleyel and Bach.
There was only one downside, it was a bit warm in the dining rooms. France has a complicated relationship with air conditioning, defined by cultural resistance, strict building rules, and a fierce political debate over climate change. Only about 25% of French households have air conditioning, lagging far behind other nations.
We put those thoughts aside and enjoyed a lovely meal with great companions.
Saturday, May 30
Caen Memorial and Honfleur
Le Havre is a major port city in the Seine-Maritime department in the Normandy region of northern France. It is situated on the right bank of the estuary of the river Seine and was almost completely rebuilt after the terrible destruction wrought in World War II.
From Le havre we travelled about 1 hour and 20 minutes to visit the Mémorial de Caen. The Memorial commemorates the sacrifices of WWII and features a Peace Museum and memorial gardens dedicated to the American, British and Canadian forces that liberated France.
The Caen Memorial Museum with over 14,000 square feet is the largest and most important museum in Normandy, dedicated to the history of World War II and D-Day. The museum offers a comprehensive understanding of the Normandy Landing, D‑Day, and World War II within both regional and global contexts. The exhibits rely heavily on immersive scenography, film archives, photographs, and changing installations.
We then continued back to the charming fishing port of Honfleur, where early Impressionists Monet, Daubigny and Corot developed their painting style. There we enjoyed a local lunch at Alycyone, a favorite of the locals. The service was friendly and efficient and the food delicious. This is one of those times when Tauck really shines, not only with great suggestions, but giving us an allowance in Euros to pay for the meal!
After a stroll around the town we boarded the coach for the trip back to the Riverboat. It was time for a cocktail and an immersive lecture on D-Day by a local expert.
Sunday, May 31
Normandy Beaches
For the first in twelve days, we woke to overcast and drizzle, appropriate for our visit to the Normandy Beaches. On the way, we picked up local guide and WWII history expert, Cristoph, in Caen on the way to Pointe du Hoc. On the trip, Cristoph regaled us with his remarkable knowledge of military history and pertinent anecdotes.
We began our tour at Pointe du Hoc, where US Army Rangers scaled the high cliffs to seize German artillery pieces firing on American troops landing at Omaha and Utah beaches on June 6, 1944.
Led by Lieutenant Colonel James E. Rudder, 225 Rangers used rope ladders, grappling hooks, and rocket-propelled lines to climb the towering limestone cliffs of Pointe du Hoc under direct enemy fire. What incredible valor these men showed in scaling these cliffs , eventually knocking out the ability of these guns to fire.
We then rode down to the actual beaches where these men landed and suffered such tragic loss. Memorials on the beach ensure that future generations their sacrifice and contribution.
Awe-struck by contemplating the valor of these men, we welcomed the opportunity to retire to the Château La Chenevière, a five-star hotel for lunch. This former 18th-century manor house, nestled in a romantic park, welcomed us with luxury and serenity.
After lunch, we paused at Omaha Beach to visit the poignant Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial, the final resting place for more than 9,300 troops who lost their lives in World War II. The Cemetery and Memorial are situated on a bluff overlooking the beach. The tranquil setting and its history were moving.
I was one of two veterans in our group chosen to place a wreath of honor for Sgt. Raymond Hoback of Virginia, one of the fallen soldiers on D-Day.
The central monument features the majestic 22-foot-tall bronze sculpture titled “Spirit of American Youth Rising from the Waves” created by American sculptor Donald De Lue. It symbolizes the youth, bravery, and sacrifice of the U.S. service members who fought in World War.
As we toured the Normandy beaches, the riverboat moved upriver toward Paris. We re-boarded the riverboat in Caudebec-en-Caux to continue our cruise, just in time to freshen up and partake in conversation and a cocktail before enjoying another sumptuous meal at the Compass Rose.
Monday. June 1
Les Andeles, Cider & Calvados
We arrived in Les Andelys this morning, a French township consisting of two fishing villages at a scenic bend in the river where the imposing ruins of Chateau Gaillard rise on a cliff. The castle was built in 1198 by Richard the Lionheart, Duke of Normandy, to defend against an invasion from the King of France. A marvel of engineering, the fortress was constructed in only a year, using thousands of workers; it was thought to be impervious, but fell after a siege in 1204.
We visited the castle and town on a walking tour including Church of Saint-Sauveur in Petit-Andely a 13th-century Gothic church built as a chapel for workers constructing Château Gaillard under Richard the Lionheart.
Featuring a 155 foot spire, it blends medieval architecture with Baroque and Renaissance artistry.
Inside, it houses stained glass windows from the 14th to 20th centuries and a historic 1674 organ with nearly all original pipes.
On our way to an exclusive visit to a local cider house, we glimpsed the surprising beauty of flax fields. Normandy produces nearly 50% of the world’s high-quality flax fiber, transforming the landscape into stunning stretches of “blue gold”. For a brief window in late May to mid-June, fields across this region burst into vibrant, pale-blue blossoms for an annual spectacle that lasts only a couple of weeks. Flax is a versatile plant used primarily to make linen fabric from its stems and nutritional flaxseeds or linseed oil from its seeds.
We enjoyed our visit local cider house to learn about the many variations of Norman cider and Calvados, an apple brandy renowned in this region. Of course we enjoyed a tasting of both.
After lunch on board, we set sail for Paris. We enjoyed perfect 75º sunny weather in the afternoon on the sundeck traveling through the stunning Normandy countryside on the lovely, meandering Seine River . . . Heavenly!
After enjoying our time in the sun reading and relaxing on board we enjoyed our leisurely transition through freshening up followed by cocktails. We then joined the Captain for a farewell reception followed by dinner.
We bid the crew farewell and although tips are included, we always recognize superlative service and, of course, the crew was recognized for their efforts on this trip. We showed our appreciation for the fantastic experience.
Tuesday. June 2
Return Home
Our luggage was out by 8:00 am and we waited just a short time in the lounge until our complimentary transportation to the Paris Charles de Gaulle airport arrived. Our fabulous week of near perfect weather was punctuated by the steady light rain, but we were quickly swept away in a private black Mercedes sedan and on our way home.
The heavy Parisian traffic was no match for our driver and we arrived at the airport in less than one hour. Check-in, security and passport control went smoothly. The need to board a bus to board the aircraft was a downer and the fact that we sat on the runway for an hour and a half was not what we had planned; however, the seven hour flight to JFK was without further incident and our connection to Tampa was on time.
This trip has completely changed how I view France. The blending of intimate access to Normandy and Paris with all-inclusive luxury was an incredible experience. The guided tours of historic D-Day beaches and Monet’s gardens in Giverny were especially memorable. We have already booked another Tauck trip to experience the Grand Canadian Rockies with a small group tour including Victoria, Vancouver, Jasper, Banff, Calgary with an overnight rail journey through the awe-inspiring Rocky Mountains. Maybe you can join us!!