Alaska

Alaska, The Great Land

The Native Aleuts named it Alyeska, the “Great Land”. There are a million and one reasons that Alaska has earned its “great” reputation. First, it’s home to Denali, North America’s tallest mountain that stands more than 20,000 feet above sea level. Amazingly, Alaska has more than 40% of the nation’s surface water resources including over 12,000 rivers, 3 million lakes greater than 5 acres and numerous creeks and ponds. It’s a place of epic drama, with soaring mountains, giant glaciers and dazzling wildlife.

Denali, what we learned in school as Mt. McKinley

The CruiseTour is an ideal way to explore Alaska’s most magnificent attractions, including Glacier Bay National Park and Denali National Park. You can only cruise to Alaska during the spring and summer months; the season starts in May and ends in September. Princess Cruises has perfected this experience to show you this destination in its greatest and purest form. For in-depth exploration of Alaska’s interior, we combined stays at Denali-area lodges with scenic and relaxing train travel. We then embarked on the Majestic Princess for a  Cruise through Alaska’s Inside Passage,  a protected water route between the Gulf of Alaska and Puget Sound.

We combined a 7-day Voyage of the Glaciers cruise, a scenic rail trip and multiple days on land in Princess owned lodges as our home away from home. Warm and welcoming, these lodges are custom built and strategically located near the top attractions of the 49th state, allowing you to soak in the atmosphere of each unique region and experience authentic Alaska excursions.

Anchorage Airport at midnight

The Trip from Tampa to Anchorage via Seattle with Alaska Airlines was a total of 3,950 air miles and 9.5 hours of flight time. We expected better service with the upgraded fare, but you know me. . . I don’t complain. After a plane change in Seattle, a funky meal and one Xanax each, we arrived in Anchorage at 12:45 am. Because of the hour, we had to take a cab to the downtown Captain Cook Hotel.  After a few hours of sleep and then breakfast at the hotel, we boarded a comfortable motorcoach at 9:30 am and travelled ENE on Route 1, then on Route 3 through Wasilla  to the Princess Wilderness Lodge about 3 hours later. 

Bordering the South side of Denali National Park, the Mt. McKinley Princess Wilderness Lodge is just off of the Parks Highway, two hours south of the main entrance. From the moment you arrive at this Lodge in Denali State Park, you know you’re somewhere special.

Situated on 180 acres of land inside Denali State Park and bordered by the Chulitna River, the Lodge features dramatic vistas of Denali—North America’s highest peak. The dramatic peaks are on display from the Great Room and outdoor adventures are at your fingertips, from river rafting to flight-seeing over Denali and the Alaska Range.

Deck Placard illustrating the Mountains of The Alaska Range in the distance.

We enjoyed our time at the lodge along with the temperature of 55 degrees. We lucked out in that the clouds engulfing Denali cleared just enough to enable a view of the storied Peak 20,320 feet above sea level. That’s about 20,306 feet above what I’m used to!

Telephoto view of the Majestic Peaks of Denali
Obligatory photo with Denali in the background. . . they made me do it!

After enjoying the magical viewing on the deck and lounge, we embarked on a Byers Lake Walking Tour. We explored a portion of this 4.8-mile loop trail near Talkeetna for 2.5 hours with Mo, our guide.

Byers Lake In Denali Park

Mo regaled us with the history of the area and had in-depth knowledge of the flora including many poisonous plants. This trail is considered a moderately challenging route with great lake views and historic cabin. It’s great for backpacking, camping, and hiking and we encountered only a few hikers on the tour.

Beyers Lake

After a comfortable night at the Lodge, we had luggage ready for pick up at 7 AM. We passed a few hours in the town of Talkeetna, A turn-of-the-20th-century gold-mining center, Talkeetna still has much of its early Alaska flavor with log cabins, and clapboard storefronts on the main street. We walked to the local coffee shop for special crêpe and coffee and then ambled to the convergence of the three rivers at the end of Main Street. We walked around the town, spoke with a few people and met the elected Mayor, who is a cat named “Denali”.  Who knew?

Lodges on the Talketna River

We then took the shuttle back to Princess Wilderness Lodge. Enjoyed a coffee while we took in more mountain views and then boarded the motorcoach for our next Lodge destination.

The Denali Princess Wilderness Lodge, is the closest and most comfortable place to stay when visiting the park, just one mile from the park entrance. Its boundaries encompass an impressive six million acres — the size of the state of Massachusetts. We had already booked a Helicopter Tour to take in the sights and land on a glacier.

The Helicopter tour was thrilling. Robin and I were fortunate to have the front seats on the helicopter, the views were fabulous. We were outfitted with studded glacier over-boots in preparation for the glacier landing.

Hope, our pilot had the highest flight credentials, but she was only in her late 20s. During the 40 minute flight over wide valleys, wild rivers and craggy ranges, she pointed out wildlife and other features. We saw groups of Dall sheep and I even spotted my first Moose! He was standing knee deep in a pond, but from 150 feet overhead, looked like a toy.

Helicopter Approach to Yanert Glacier

We landed gingerly on the glacier, but quickly donned our ponchos as it was raining with a temp about 40 degrees and 20 knots of wind. Hope had me bend down to taste the clear and cold glacial water which tasted clean, but mineral laden. Great way to end the day and prepare for the mandated martini.

Keepin’ cool on Yanert Glacier

After the aforementioned martini and dinner at the Lodge, we succumbed to the required Covid test in preparation for boarding the ship in two days.

We woke to a cold and rainy day and headed out to  Nature Tour at the Denali Primrose Ridge. We learned of the Parks History from our driver Mike, who has a Phd in History and teaches at the University. Denali Park National Park was founded by Charles Sheldon in 1917. He was a hunter and naturalist attracted to Denali specifically by Dall sheep. In the past, I had several friends who are rumored to possess a similar attraction.

After a visit to The History Center for and introductory movie and a discussion with a Park Ranger, we then trekked to a historic cabin for a discussion of what early visitor’s experiences were like in the park. Denali is a true wilderness, but now visitors mostly come to see wildlife and not kill it.

Here’s Robin braving the nasty conditions (anything below 75 and cloudy)

You will remember that the US purchased AK from Russia in 1867 for 7 Million dollars, a deal know as Seward’s Folly. When gold was found in 1898, the rapid influx of people and discovery of more natural resources has contributed much to America’s prosperity. William Seward, Lincoln’s Secretary of State, made a great deal, but didn’t profit nearly as well as today’s government oligarchs. Think Paulie Pelosi.

Wilderness Rail Trip

To me, there is simply no better way to experience so much of Alaska’s vast beauty than to see it by rail. The Wilderness rail service  transported us in a luxury Glass-domed rail cars on a legendary route straight from the Princess Lodges in Denali to the Cruise ship embarkation in Whittier. The trip is designed to showcase every breathtaking mile of forested landscape, flowering meadows and glacial lakes. The rail guides deliver insightful narration about this historic route’s long history and the natural wonders just outside the window .

Spacious Vista Dome Rail Car with seat and table service

We Traveled by rail about 300 miles of the total of 500 miles of track on the Alaska Railroad. The trip was smooth and comfortable and the 9.5 hours was much more pleasant than the air travel we endured a few days ago. We did opt for the dining car below for a beautiful lunch as we watched the mountains and wild rivers go by.

While nearing our destination of Whittier, where we will embark on the Cruise ship, a Princess Representative accomplished all of the necessary check-in procedures right at our seat, including the Princess Medallion, passport, vaccine card and Covid test result.

We then travelled through two tunnels below the mountains. At the end of the second one, we reached the Majestic Princess in Whittier which is located approximately 70 miles southeast of Anchorage, and  was an active U.S. Army port until 1960. Today, it houses most of Whittier’s residents (approximately 290). Unlike Anchorage’s Cook Inlet which is choked by ice 5 months out of the year, Whittier is a year round ice-free port. 

Majestic Princess docked in Whittier for Embarkation

This was a Princess MedallionClass cruise which features next-level technology and allowed us to enjoy reliable Wi-Fi and touchless experiences. This starts with Medallion wearable, a quarter-sized device that never needs to be turned on or off. Your stateroom door unlocks as you approach, your food and drinks find you, and friends and family can easily locate you. It made check-in a breeze and we chose exactly when and where we ate. We never worried about misplacing our cruise card and we were able to order a margarita, martini or latte by the pool chaise lounge, library or wherever we were. We experienced this on other cruises and it makes the cruising experience delightful.

Majestic Princess

The 1083 foot, 3,560 passenger Majestic Princess has a fun, relaxed vibe, was built in 2017 and is wonderfully maintained. Due to the lingering effects of Covid there were only about 2,000 passengers aboard which enhanced the experience. The staff went above and beyond to ensure our comfort and pleasure.

Elegant Central Piazza with a three deck Atrium

All cabins have a supremely comfortable Princess Luxury Bed, dreamy pillows, soft sheets and block-out curtains, which virtually guarantee a good night’s sleep. We chose a mini-suite along with Club Class dining, where you can dine on your own schedule and enjoy expedited seating with no wait. Table for 6? . . . for us, that would be a NO Thank you!

Midship Mini Suite

After unpacking and feeling overjoyed at not to have to deal with a suitcase for a week, we celebrated in the Lounge with a cocktail and set sail just after Dinner. It felt great to be transiting on the water again. We will take the protected Inside Passage, all the way to Vancouver and make several stops along the way. We enjoyed flat seas for the entire passage of 1550 nautical miles (1783 statute miles).

Hubbard Glacier

Located in south-central Alaska, north of Yakutat, with its origins in Yukon Territory, Canada, Hubbard Glacier is the largest tidewater glacier in North America. We arrived at Yakutat Bay in mid-afternoon and marveled at the Scenic Cruising with expert commentary by Naturalist Mark Harris.

Hubbard Glacier in Disenchantment Bay

While many other glaciers around the world are retreating, Hubbard Glacier continues to thicken and grow making it one of the best glaciers to see in Alaska. Hubbard calves nearly every day, making for dramatic views as ice crashes into the Bay.

A spectacular day was followed by a “formal” evening in our usual spot in the Dining Room where we enjoyed attentive, personal service and great selections from a special menu. Adrian and Christian were true professionals.

Glacier Bay

The following day, after a wonderful dinner and engaging ship entertainment, we attended a Glacier Bay Ranger Presentation where we learned of the massive tidewater glaciers of Glacier Bay National Park while we sailed through the fjords of the Inside Passage.

The 3.3 million acre Glacier Bay National Park, a UNESCO-listed treasure was astounding. We saw several tidewater glaciers tower hundreds of feet over the waterline and watch for “calving”. The native Tlingit call the sound “white thunder” when chunks of ice tear from a tidewater glacier and crash into the waters below. We were able to witness the amazing sight and sounds of this incredible phenomenon.

The magnificent Margerie Glacier is sure to impress with its dramatic blue spires. Beyond the ice, we saw towering snow-capped mountains, deep fjords and freshwater streams.

Icy Point Straight

Several landslides in June have closed the cruise ship dock in Skagway for the rest of the summer so Icy Point Straight was chose as an alternative a few weeks ago. We ended up booking an excursion with a private company for a Whale Adventure.

To get to Icy strait Whale Adventures we took a Green Transporter or gondola to the Adventure Hub boarded the excursion boat. Fortunately, it was only half-full and with only 25 passengers we got to view all of the action in comfort.

Humpback Whales are huge baleen whales that do most of their feeding in Alaska or Antartica. The females are typically over 45 feet long and weigh 35 tons. They travel great distances every year and have one of the longest migrations of any mammal on the planet. Some populations swim 5,000 miles from tropical breeding grounds to colder, more productive feeding grounds. 

Humpback Flukes are a unique identifier to a specific whale

Humpback whales are migratory and only eat during half of the year. During the feeding season, humpback whales actively feed for up to twenty-two hours a day. We saw groups of 15 or so whales engaging in a cooperative feeding method called “bubble-netting” where they corral their prey fish into a net of bubbles and then swim upwards to feed. It was an incredible cooperative effort!

Group of 40 foot Humpbacks feeding by Bubble-netting

In addition to the humpback whales, we saw several orcas, eagles, otters and plenty of sea lions.

Seal’s Beach

Seal’s Buoy

Juneau                                                                                                                       

Juneau Alaska stands on one of the largest wilderness areas in the United States. After a relaxing breakfast, we had an 8:45 am meetup with the Princess Excursion Trolley to the Tongass Natural Forest and a trip to Mendenhall Glacier.

Tongass National Forest encompassing nearly 17 million acres of beautiful terrain  is the nation’s largest national forest and covers most of Southeast Alaska. It surrounds the Inside Passage and offers unique chances to view eagles, bears, spawning salmon, and the breath-taking vistas of “wild” Alaska.

Mendenhall Glacier

We visited the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center  and along the 2 mile Nugget Falls Trail, we enjoyed views of this thirteen-mile-long river of ice and Nugget falls.

Nugget Falls and Mendenhall Glacier

The Trolley dropped us off in downtown Juneau, we then took the Goldbelt Tram to the top of the ridge about 1800 feet high and spent some time on the observation deck.

At the summit we watched a Tlingit film to learn of the local culture. The Tlingit maintained a complex hunter-gatherer culture based management of fisheries. Tlingit means “people of the tides”. . . no wonder, tides in Alaska can range up to 40 feet.

Ketchikan

Ketchikan is dubbed the “Rain Capital of Alaska,” and the forecast can be chilly and wet, but we were pleasantly surprised to encounter relatively warm weather at 65 degrees and more sun than we’ve seen since we left Sarasota. Ketchikan is one of the rainiest cities in America and receives about 150 inches of rain a year, 260% more rain than the national average.

We walked into town and booked a 2 hour trolley tour on our own. Describing itself as the “Salmon Capital of the World”, we stopped by a nearby creek and saw Salmon swimming upstream along a ladder, but not before we rode past Dolly’s House of ill repute. We then meandered on the rustic road to a waterfall by the side of the road.

We attempted to view bears in a stream feeding. . . no luck, but we did see several Eagles showing off their aerial skills over the water.

Back on the ship, we enjoyed lunch and then Robin visited to the spa for a mani and a massage, while I relaxed in the cafe for some serious people watching and Alaska research.

SEA DAY

Seas days are great. . . time to relax and enjoy the amenities of the ship.

The day started out foggy and 55 , then partly sunny on our way to Vancouver. After a late wakeup and coffee we had a leisurely lunch at Club Class. We avoid any buffet if possible, the food looks great, but I skeev it. We then enjoyed lounging peacefully at a private cabana in The Hollywood Conservatory, an enclosed quiet retreat 150 feet above the water. After dinner, we retreated to the room to finish packing and have bags ready to go by 9 pm.

Vancouver

Vancouver Port is the largest in Canada and the fourth largest in North America. To enter the harbour we had to clear the Lion’s Gate bridge which has clearance height of only 200 feet. The Majestic princess is a bit higher and we had to pass below the bridge at low tide, 3 am.

Majestic Princess at the Vancouver Dock Downtown.

We disembarked after breakfast at 9:15am in what can only be described as efficient, cordial and timely. We found our bags with no problem and within minutes we were checked into the Fairmont Hotel by 9:45! Easiest ever.

Fairmont Hotel, timeless elegance since 1939

Vancouver is Canada’s third-largest city, a cosmopolitan place with a European feel and a personality all its own. It’s also the city where Robin and I were engaged in 1991, so it has special meaning for us. It’s a community with a rich ethnic mix – including the second-largest Chinatown in North America – and stunningly beautiful parks.

We took a stroll to Gastown, as we did 32 years ago, and noticed some things have changed. It is a mix of hip restaurants and trendy boutiques and tattoo parlors and poverty.

Gastown, Vancouver BC

We thoroughly enjoyed lunch at the Local Public eatery in the heart of Gastown and marvelled at the number of attractive ladies with total arm and/or leg ink, not to mention the facial jewelry. Our waitress had so much facial jewelry she looked like a wind chime with legs!

We enjoyed much that the city has to offer, including Stanley Park. This magnificent green oasis in the midst of the urban landscape of Vancouver was only a 30 minute walk from our hotel. We admired the unique architectural features of the buildings and the prolific gardens along the way.

The 1,000 acre Stanley Park features natural West Coast rainforest,  scenic views of water, mountains, and majestic trees along the Seawall.

A trip to Stanley Park wouldn’t be complete with out a trip to the magnificent Aquarium. The Beluga Whales and Orcas are no longer in residence, but it’s absolutely worth a visit.

After a light dinner and packing for the last time, we turned in early to prepare for the 3:30am wakeup. Rang for the bellhop at 4:30; airport by 5:00am; porter then took bags to the gate, then to US customs, conveniently located here in Canada; through global entry security, then used the US global entry kiosk and off to the agent to present receipts, passport & boarding pass. Now, on the US terminal. The entire process was completed in 30 minutes. Whew! We were at the gate at 5:30am for the 7:30 am flight. Looks like we allowed enough time. . .

We hope you enjoyed your time with us and look forward to having you join us for another adventure.

Blue Danube River Cruise

The Blue Danube

The Danube  River, over 1,700 miles long, is the second longest river in Europe, after the Volga  in Russia. It flows through much of Central and Southeastern Europe from the Black Forest in Germany into the Black Sea.

On the Danube, Regensburg, Germany

The Danube was once a long-standing frontier of the Roman Empire and today is the river running through the largest number of countries in the world (10; the Nile is second with 9). The largest cities on the river are Vienna, Budapest, Belgrade and Bratislava, all of which are the capitals of their respective countries.

Along the “river of kings” you find medieval castles and Gothic cathedrals, charming riverside villages, the Imperial treasures of the Habsburgs, lush Wachau valley vineyards and the music of Mozart and other masters. 

From Prague to Budapest, castles of all descriptions have watched over the landscape from their royal perches for centuries. This 12-day journey featured a 7-night Danube cruise, a private dinner in Lobkowicz Palace, a stroll in Medieval Regensburg, Baroque Salzburg and charming Bratislava. We visited historic Cathedrals in many cities and atop Budapest’s Castle Hill. We also visited the very room were Mozart was born and explored Vienna’s opulent Schönbrunn Palace. Of special note, we celebrated our 30th wedding Anniversary with an exclusive evening of Imperial entertainment the Palais Pallavicini, a private palace in Vienna. It was definitely a cruise to remember.

Getting there was a story in itself. Traveling through the Covid era, as you know, has presented challenges. We were actually in Indonesia in the early days of Covid in March of 2020. At that time, there were no vaccine or mask requirements, although we wore masks and disinfected surfaces like obsessive, compulsive scullery maids. Since then, I have been on dive trips to the Bahamas, Turks and Caicos, Belize and Costa Rica. In addition, Robin and I enjoyed a fantastic cruise on one of Princess’ newest ships which accepted only one half of the usual passenger list, due to Covid. I have posted these on social media, but have not posted on Bobamala.com since 2019. Welcome Back!

Preparation for this trip required that you be fully Vaxed and Boosted and show a negative PCR Covid test 72 hrs prior to arrival in the Czech Republic. Just last week, masks were required on all flights and airports. After all of these precautions, including masking at the hotels, on the ship and coaches and even on the streets in Germany and Austria, Covid testing prior to our return home to the US rendered some amazing results. I’ll detail the findings later.

St Vitus Cathedral, Prague

We chose Tauck Tours for the Danube Trip as they are top-rated for this itinerary. Their representative met us at the Prague airport in Czechia and whisked us to the Prague Marriott Hotel in the heart of the city near Old town Square. We were traveling with our neighbors and friends Tony and Annie, who were also enticed by the itinerary. Now settled into our rooms, we relaxed a bit and then walked a few blocks along the cobblestone streets for dinner at the Cafe Imperial, which has been the most famous and most popular “Grand Cafe House” and restaurant in Prague for the past 100 years. It was once frequented by the writer Franz Kafka, composer Leos Janacek and many other eminent guests.

Original Art Noveau ceramic wall tiling and mosaic ceiling from 1914 were breathtaking and crowned by large street windows. The service was professional and attentive even when Robin asked for her aperitif, “Pussy Food” . . . a unique combination of orange juice, lime juice and pomegranate syrup. It was presented in a cocktail glass, so it’s not what you might think!

Cafe Imperial, Prague

The Cafe Imperial menu boasts traditional Czech cuisine with a modern twist, complemented by international items. Signature dishes such as Braised Veal Cheeks, Braised Shank of Lamb or Imperial Cake will make you return for more.

We began the River Cruise early this evening with a Tauck Exclusive – a royal welcoming reception, tour and dinner at 16th-century Lobkowicz Palace at Prague Castle. We were immersed in an evening of classical cultural treasures – music and art played an important role in the aristocratic world of the Lobkowicz family.

Welcome Dinner at Prague Castle, Lobkowicz Palace

The following day, we started the exploration of Prague with a walking tour through Prague’s ethereal Old Town, including a visit to the city’s poignant Jewish sites in the historic Jewish Quarter. The Jewish community in Prague can trace its origins all the way back to the late 10th century, but to call its history tumultuous would be an understatement. Some 1,500 Jewish citizens of Prague were massacred in April of 1389 , in one of the most horrific examples of Bohemian anti-Semitism in Medieval times, but by the 18th century, the Czech capital was home to more Jews than anywhere else on the planet.

Now home to a poignant memorial to the lives lost during the Holocaust is the Pinkas Synagogue, the second-oldest in the city. All of the walls are taken up with names of 78,000 Holocaust victims, giving their names, date of birth and date of death or transportation to the concentration camps. The memorial is the longest epitaph in the world, but the total list of victims is much longer.

Pinkas Synagogue Epitaph
Names of Czech Jews that perished in Concentration Camps like Terezin, 30 miles north of Prague
Jewish Cemetery, resting place for over 100,000 souls

Our tour continued past the Old Town Square. The Astronomical Clock located in the Old Town Hall was first installed in 1410, making it the third-oldest astronomical clock in the world and the oldest clock still in operation. The clock shows the relative positions of the Sun, Moon, Earth and Zodiac constellations. It also tells time, date and a little theater every hour for its viewers every hour on the hour.

Astronomical Clock, installed in 1410

In the afternoon, we visited the Castle district including the 1,000-year-old Prague Castle’s complex of palaces, courtyards and gardens; the magnificent Gothic Cathedral of St. Vitus which is the largest and the most important temple in Prague. Apart from religious services, coronations of Czech kings and queens also took place here. The cathedral is a place of burial of several patron saints, sovereigns, noblemen and archbishops.

St. Vitus Cathedral

We were free that evening to sample the culinary pleasures of Prague at Gambero Rosso a wonderful Italian restaurant a few blocks away from the hotel. We passed on the best schnitzels, goulashes, strudels, dumplings and chose pasta and pizza instead. Wonderful!!

Robin and I with Tony and Annie at Gombero Rosso
Robin ready to river cruise

Regensburg

We departed Prague this morning and traveled to the quintessential Bavarian town of Regensburg, whose roots stretch back to Roman days. Here we explore this treasure-trove of history on foot enjoying the many shops and quaint narrow cobblestone streets.

Regensburg, Bavaria, Germany
Regensburg

Touring sure improved our appetites and since none of us speak German, our native Bavarian waitress patiently explained the menu by pointed to an item, then we all engaged in a game of charades. . . Lots of laughs and I ended up with a great local beer and Pork schnitzel. . . not what I though I ordered, but I’d do it again!

We departed Regensburg and continue on to Vilshofen, where we boarded our riverboat the MS Joy to launch our 7-night Danube cruise. At 443 feet with a shallow draft of 4 feet, she was built for river cruising. Most ships of this size carry 160 guests, but Tauck limits this to 130 for a more comfortable experience. For this trip, due to Covid and other factors, we had only 67 guests and 30 crew.

Upper Level Stateroom included a large bath and a walk-in closet

The Welcome Reception included cocktails and introduction of Captain and crew, which was followed by dinner in the spacious Dining Room. We then settled into our cabin as we embarked on our river journey. After a restful night, we admired the views from the windows of our cabin we glided along the mighty Danube . Our first port of call was Engelhartszell, a pretty town on the Danube in Upper Austria.

Engelhartszell

We visited a local private home built in 1598 and owned by the Klein family since 1743. We were greeted by the extremely engaging sisters who run the former stable and inn as a bed and breakfast. We enjoyed an informative tour and a history lesson, as well as, taste of local cake and liqueur.

Klein Family Bed and Breakfast

We then joined a walking tour of town including 18th-century Engelhartszell Abbey. Engelszell Abbey church, built between 1754 and 1764, is an impressive church in the Rococo style, with a tower 76 meters high.

In 1925, Engelszell Abbey was occupied and re-founded as a Trappist monastery by refugee German monks. In 1939, the abbey was confiscated by the Gestapo and the community, numbering 73, evicted. Four monks were sent to Dachau Concentration Camp, while others were imprisoned elsewhere or drafted into the German Army. At the end of the war in 1945, only about a third of the previous community returned. At present, there is only one monk in residence.

After a tour of the Abbey, the gardens and an aquarium with species native to the Danube, we returned to the Ship for lunch and a leisurely meandering cruise as we sailed through the Danube Valley. An optional 26 mile Bike ride was offered this afternoon, but with 45 – 50 degree temperatures, I passed. Florida has spoiled me. If the temperature drops below 50, I don’t even go outside to get the paper!

We did attend a very special Chef’s signature dinner that evening after our arrival in Linz, the capital of Upper Austria. We sampled the fantastic menu and enjoyed the special treatment.

Salzburg

The MS Joy stayed docked in Linz as we had a full-day excursions to Salzburg (Austria). A setting for The Sound of Music, Salzburg is enticing with its Baroque architecture, painted wrought-iron signage, ornate church towers, and grand palaces. The walking tour explored Old Town and Mirabell Gardens, we then had time on our own to have lunch and tour Mozart’s Birthplace.

Old Town Salzburg with MCD

As you know, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart (January, 1756 – December, 1791) was a prolific and influential composer of the Classical Period. Despite his short life of 35 years, his rapid pace of composition resulted in more than 800 works of virtually every genre of his time. Mozart is among the greatest composers in the history of Western music, with music admired for its “melodic beauty, its formal elegance and its richness of harmony and texture”.

Mozart’s Birthplace
First evidence of Mozart’s work, 1802
Cafe Tomaselli , 1703, a Mozart hangout

We took some time to browse the museum then do some window shopping. Along the way we stopped to warm up with some cappuccino and a light lunch at an historic cafe.

Wachau Valley cruise to Dürnstein

We continued cruising through the Wachau Valley which is one of the spectacular winemaking regions of the world. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its well-preserved medieval landscapes. We docked in Dürnstein for a closer look at its 16th-century Baroque houses and 13th-century Romanesque church on a walking tour along cobblestone streets. We also saw the ruins of Kuenringerburg, a hilltop castle above the town where Richard the Lionhearted was held for ransom during the Crusades. 

Vineyards of the Wachau Valley
Durnstein
Kuenringerburg Castle, where crusader Richard the Lionhearted was imprisoned and held for ransom

Vienna

We arrived overnight in Vienna, Austria, and toured of the Hapsburgs’ Schönbrunn Palace, an architectural masterpiece and Austrian cultural treasure. It was the main summer residence of the Hapsburg rulers. The 1,441-room Rococo palace is one of the most important architectural, cultural, and historic monuments in the country. The history of the palace and its vast gardens spans over 300 years, reflecting the changing tastes, interests, and aspirations of successive Hapsburg monarchs.

Schönbrunn Palace

We then enjoyed a walking tour of medieval Vienna. Later, nothing compared to the royal treatment and pageantry we experienced at our private Imperial Evening in the Palais Pallavicini, an opulent, private Viennese palace that played a role in the 1940s film noir classic The Third Man. Welcome cocktails and dinner precede an unforgettable spectacle of beautiful ball gowns and a musical performance celebrating the legacy of Mozart. What an incredible way to celebrate our 30th Wedding Anniversary!

Palais Pallaivicini
The Happy Couple Celebrating their 30th!
Marvelous Ballet and Opera Performances

Vienna sightseeing & on to Slovakia

The next day we took the “Imperial City Walk” through one of the largest Palace complexes in the world. Originally a medieval fortified castle dating from the 13th century, The Imperial Palace was continually expanded by the each Hapsburg emperor. The sprawling, asymmetric complex which extends over 240,000 m² consists of 18 wings, 19 courtyards and 2,600 rooms in which nearly 5,000 people still work and live today. Since 1279 the Hofburg area has been the documented seat of government.

You may recognize the Neue Burg balcony in the center of the photo, where in March of 1938 Adolph Hitler proclaimed to the crowd of over 200,000 cheering German Austrians that his homeland, Austria, was now part of the German Reich.
Hofburg Palace

Our tour continued on in medieval Vienna to St. Stephen’s Cathedral, the mother church of the Archdiocese of Vienna. The current Romanesque and Gothic form of the structure was originated in the 1368 and continued to 1433. The Cathedral’s massive south tower is its highest point and a dominant feature of the Vienna skyline. It has many outstanding features including 18 altars, icons, tombs, catacombs and crypts. The interior is truly breathtaking.

St Stephan’s Cathedral stock photo

Baroque in Bratislava

We began the day with a Tauck Exclusive – a presentation by a local guide that takes you inside contemporary Slovakia and Bratislava for a look at politics, the economy, religion, the social order, preservation and emergence of the arts, and more. Then, as the weather is now improving with a glimpse of sunshine, we had a pleasant walking tour of this cobblestoned, vehicle-free city, where we saw 17 centuries of history chronicled in sites including its 13th-century Old Town Hall, Baroque Hapsburg-era palaces, the Opera House, Slovak Philharmonic Hall and St. Martin’s Cathedral.

Slovak National Theatre
St. Martin’s Cathedral
Old Town Hall, built in 1370
Enjoying a local cafe
13th Century Bratislava Castle

Wheelhouse visit

After a great visit to the charming city of Bratislava, which also is an important manufacturing center, I took some time to visit the Captain in the Wheelhouse. Captain Marinescu has the latest in Navigation aids that helped him guide us the 374 miles from Vilshofen, Bavaria to Budapest, Hungary. Along the way we transited 11 locks each of which descended 36 to 65 feet. Great job Captain!

The river Cruise ended the next morning in Budapest, Hungary, which is split into the sections of Buda and Pest. We disembarked the riverboat and bid the crew farewell, then explored the city’s Buda side with a visit to the historic Covered Market and a walking tour of Castle Hill, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Covered Market Hall with an amazing selection of fruits, vegetables, specialty meats from specialized butcher shops, pastries, spices and spirits, not to mention clothing, handcrafts and souvenirs.

Buda, Capitol Hill and Fisherman’s Bastion

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St. Matthias, roof detail

We admired the stained glass windows, the incredible detail and the centuries of history in Matthias Church and then were awed by the views from Fishermen’s Bastion with its Neo-Romanesque design. After lunch at a local café, we transferred to the city-center Ritz-Carlton hotel.

Panoramic view of Budapest from Fisherman’s Bastion from Castle Hill in Buda

We had a seamless check-in at the Ritz-Carlton on Elizabeth Square smack dab in city center Budapest. The hotel staff greeted us warmly and we settled in and prepared to get ready for dinner.

What’s not to like about the Ritz?

We chose to dine at Rezkakas (Copper Rooster) a local Hungarian Restaurant which offered live traditional music, as well as, Hungarian cuisine with a modern twist. Of course, I had to go with the braised veal cheeks! The music was lively and how can you go wrong with a good veal cheek?

On the walk back to the hotel, we passed through Elizabeth Square and there it was, the Budapest Eye, the enclosed ferris wheel that serves as a city landmark. At over 200 feet high, it affords great views of the City.

Budapest is split into the sections of Buda and Pest by the Danube River. In the morning, we explored the Pest side of the city on a tour including a special visit to the opulent State Opera House, opened in 1884, with its royal boxes, gilded vaulted ceiling, exquisite murals and three-ton chandelier.

Hungarian State Opera House
Royal Entrance
Royal Boxes
Theatre ceiling detail
Opera Main Entrance Hall

Our tour continued to City Park and Heroes’ Square, bounded by some of the finest architectural works in Hungary. The walking tour focused on the Hungarian Revolution and includes the Parliament building and the Embassy.

Parliament Building
Ronald Reagan is a popular figure in Hungary
Vaci Street, Fashion street in central Pest

Budapest has acquired quite an excellent reputation for its cuisine and tonight’s special farewell dinner is at the grand Akadémia Club in the Hungarian Academy of Sciences.

Hungarian Academy of the Sciences

And so after 14 days of traveling by air, bus, boat and car we are returning to the US, but not before our required Covid testing. Of the 67 travelers about 60 were tested, as others were extending their trip elsewhere. Over 20 tested positive for Covid and had to be remain in Budapest for 5 days, or until they tested negative. Fortunately, we were the lucky ones!

We were able to complete our journey home through Munich, then Dulles and finally Tampa without a hitch. The long flights can be quite pleasant, if you are able to get assistance from the appropriate medications. We returned home with pleasant memories and an appreciation for the wonderful treasures and complex history of Central Europe. We can heartily recommend this Danube itinerary and the Tauck Tour Company.

A perfect day on Vorosmarty Square, Budapest. Definitely a Bobamala favorite!
Australia

G’day Mates!

G’day Mates,

Welcome to Australia the “Land Down Under”, the largest country in Oceania and the sixth largest in the world. It is about the size of the continental U.S. The population of 25 million is highly urbanized and mostly located on the eastern seaboard.

A highly developed country with the world’s 13th largest economy, it ranks tenth in per capita income as evidenced by the astronomical real estate prices in Sydney where the average home price is $850,000!

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After traveling 32 days by sea for a total of 10,260 nautical miles we were delighted to start our adventure in Sydney with its population of nearly 6 million, living in an area which extends about 43 miles from the city center. It’s huge . . . and expensive, but boasts the most picturesque harbor in the world, along with notable sites such as the Sydney Harbour Bridge, The Royal Botanic Garden and over 2 million acres of national parks.

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IMG_8784 (3)I can tell you that sailing into Sydney Harbour and passing by the Sydney Opera House and under the Sydney Harbour Bridge was breathtaking. When sailing under the bridge we looked up and saw what looked like ants climbing on the top arch of the Bridge. The next day we would be two of those ants!

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The Sydney Harbour Bridge, opened in 1932, is the tallest steel arch bridge 440 feet from the top arch to the water. It accommodates vehicles, rail, bicycles and pedestrians and Wallenda wannabees!

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BridgeClimb Sydney is billed as “360˚ of Unforgettable” and so it was. After suiting up with coveralls, safety harnesses, headphones for the narration during the climb and tethers for hats and sunglasses, our group of 11 performed an indoor practice climb including important advice about clipping on to the safety cable.

After our guide was satisfied, we clipped on to the cable, exited the building and began our 1332 step journey to the bridge summit. At that point, we were under the bridge road surface and about 40 feet above the road and park below walking on a catwalk of two 2 x 12 planks. I started to sweat and was happy that I wore nothing but Tommy Johns under my coveralls. The climb up the narrow ladders to the arch itself was nerve wracking, especially for someone who would rather dive at 175 feet below the ocean surface or dive with sharks than climb a step stool!

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Here we are huddled in the middle of the group for protection!

Our guide was informative and kept the group engaged as we climbed up in the 30 knots of wind and finally reached the summit and enjoyed the view, hoping a strong gust wouldn’t make me plunge the 430 feet to the water below. We did manage to smile for the photo though!

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The total experience lasted 3 ½ hours, but we had a great time didn’t we!!

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Circular Quay

The next day we took the Ferry from Circular Quay (pronounced “Key”) next to the Opera House for the 15 minute ride to the Taronga Park Zoo.

Along the way the scenery of the harbour with the residences bordering it is amazing. Contact your local Sydney real estate agent if you’d like to drop 5 to 50 million on a place to lay your head.

IMG_8726After arriving at the dock we took the Sky Safari, a tram ride to the Zoo entrance, from there  it is an easy stroll back down to the waiting ferry after you experience the wonders of the resident animals.

IMG_8734Some of the highlights were the indigenous, Koalas, Kangaroos, Wallabees and, of course, the Platypus. The Zoo is undergoing considerable renovation with new exhibits suggesting that a return visit may be appropriate.

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Taronga Park Zoo Construction underway

We used the ferry system to return to Barangaroo on Darling Harbour, south of City Center. From there we walked the ½ mile back to our hotel located in the business area and Sydney Town Hall.

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Darling Harbour

Sydney is a very busy city with lots of traffic and hills. Construction of a Center City tram line on George Street which bisects the city will join rail and ferry lines in an attempt to alleviate congestion. The scheduled completion date was 2019, now estimated to be March 2020. Hopefully, it will function as planned.

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The “Rocks”

 

BLUE MOUNTAINS

The Blue Mountains derive their name form the blue haze created by sunlight at it reflects off of the oil from the vast Eucalyptus Forest. The region borders the Sydney Metropolitan area and was inhabited for millennia by the Aboriginal people. The area encompasses 3,900 square miles and is a tourist mecca for its stunning vistas, rock climbing, mountain biking and hiking.

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Three Sisters

We woke early for pickup @ 6:50 for the Blue Mountains with Diamond Tours. Tim, our guide, driving a Mercedes Benz Sprinter with only 12 aboard provided insightful information. We benefitted from the fact that he has lived in Sydney for over 30 years and is extremely knowledgeable. He kept us entertained and herded properly for over 10 hours.

Tim of Diamond Tours

After driving about two hours out of the city, our trip took us to several points of interest including Lincoln’s Rock, Echo Point, Scenic World, Cahills Lookout and the Three Sisters near Katoomba. We varied our modes of transportation by using a glass floored Skyway car, a cable car, the world’s steepest inclined railway and our feet. Following that, we had time for lunch in a lovely hotel in the small town Lapstone.

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OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERATo top it off, we visited the Featherdale Wildlife Park with its collection of indigenous species and the ability to get up close and personal with Koalas and Kanagaroos. Robin spent most of her time feeding her new kangaroo friends.

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Ever want to cuddle with a koala? Since they sleep for 20 hours per day, we had to give “Duke” a bit of a nudge to wake him up for this photo.

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After a long and incredible day, we took the Ferry back to Banagaroo on Darling Harbour and walked back to our hotel.

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Darling Harbour, Cockle Bay Wharf

 

Sydney Opera House

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The Sydney Opera House is no doubt one of the most iconic buildings in the world. The construction of this truly unique performing arts center was started in 1959 and completed in 1973. The structure is magnificent and wondered at its features during a comprehensive tour and learned that there actually 5 performance halls.

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IMG_8845We had booked the opera performance of “Werther” months ago and after the tour we had dinner at the Opera Restaurant overlooking the Sydney Harbour and the Harbour Bridge where I nearly fell to my death only three days ago!

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While dining we were entertained by a number of young Asian females taking selfies in every possible pose for the entire hour. This would be something we would witness during the entire trip in Australia. By some freak of nature we didn’t get impaled by a selfie stick, but it was close. Where in the hell do they send all of those pictures?

IMG_8854Attending an Opera in one the world’s great venues was very special, but you know the story. . . I love her, she married someone else, so I’ll kill myself!   Isn’t opera fun!!

New South Wales, Queensland and Victoria

Over the next few days we will criss-cross Eastern Australia travelling from Sydney in New South Wales to Hamilton Island just west of the GRB in Queensland to Melbourne in Victoria and finally through Brisbane the largest city in Queensland on our way back to Tampa. Our travels will have taken us to three of Ausralia’s six states.

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Travel to Hamilton Island in the Whitsundays on Virgin Australia, treated to spacious cabin and comfy seats with flight attendants so stunning they would make a grown man weep. I think I have found a new favorite airline!

Part of the Whitsundays and in the heart of the Great Barrier Reef, Hamilton Island is a family-oriented holiday destination. It is known for its pristine beaches and access to the GBR with its variety of coral and marine life.

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Cuckatoo invading our balcony

From the airport our luggage was delivered to our hotel room and arrived before we did. Transportation on island is only by Buggy (golf cart) or the frequent air conditioned shuttles. The weather here was very similar to spring or autumn in Sarasota. 90 degrees and high humidity. . . I can breathe again!

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View from Hotel Balcony

Great Barrier Reef

After enjoying the fabulous view from our balcony we had arranged for a trip on a fast cat to the Great Barrier Reef. The Reef, as you know is the largest barrier reef in the world and is about the size of Japan.

IMG_8872Cruise Whitsundays maintains a Pontoon (barge like structure) moored to the reef about 50 miles to the east on Hardy Reef which is part of the GBR. We took the 300-passenger power Trimaran along with its 26 member crew to the Pontoon for the 1.5 hour trip with orientation along the way. I was scheduled for a two- tank dive. Robin planned on snorkeling.

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“Pontoon”

Well-organized and efficient, the crew managed the 120 guests with ease. Most of the participants were new to diving and/or snorkeling so there was plenty of entertainment!

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There was also plenty of excitement to go around as stinger suit clad snorkelers enjoyed their day. The stinger suits are necessary due to the presence of Irukandji. They are a group of jellyfish that can cause potentially serious injury. The stinger suit is a full body lycra suit that includes a hood and gives all the protection that you will likely need. The height of the jellyfish season is November to May. Robin heard this and immediately signed up for the semi-submersible sub to eliminate the possibility of Cnideria attack.

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The diving was enjoyable, but not as great as I had hoped; the visibility was only about 30 feet, the reef was devoid of color and about 30% of the coral growth appeared to be dead or dying.  I was told that the coral growth is actually improving. Let’s hope so.

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The trip back was comfortable on this huge cat with great scenery as we motored through the Whitsunday Islands. The water color and islands can be likened to the Abacos in the Bahamas, but with mountains.

Whitsundays, Whitehaven Beach

The next day we joined Cruise Whitsundays again for a trip to Whitehaven Beach.  The 100 passenger, 2 deck Power Cat whisked us to the beach on the largest of the 74 Whitsundays. . . Whitsunday Island, which makes sense. Whitehaven Beach is billed as one of the most beautiful unspoiled beaches in the world. With its white sand and 7 km (4.3 mile) beach it’s easy to see why. Spectacular!

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We spend our time walking the National Park Trail and strolling the beach,  taking in the magnificent views on a beautiful Queensland morning.

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When it was time to return, the Cat had a boarding ramp extending to the beach itself for easy passenger loading and they power-washed your lower extremities of sand to keep the boat interior civilized.

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Whitehaven Beach, Whitsundays

We enjoyed lunch at a sandwich shop near the marina, took the shuttle back to the Reef View Hotel and relaxed by the pool before we prepared for yet another trip on Virgin Australia. Oh, yeah!

Hamilton Island to Melbourne

The amount of luggage we were toting was a concern, but the Hamilton Island staff came to the rescue once again and made the airport check in a breeze. We were again greeting by a beautiful and friendly Virgin Australia staff who managed to have the 737-300 aircraft boarded and ready to go 30 minutes before schedule. Imagine that!

On our arrival at Melbourne, Australia’s second largest city with about 5 million people, we were greeted by a driver who helped us schlepp our belongings to the awaiting MB People-Mover van for our  30 minute trip downtown. We were staying at a hotel in the Theatre District which is in Chinatown. After settling in, we took a stroll around the area and scoped out local options. We took advantage of the free trams and trolleys with their city tours. There are the iconic laneways or alleys with shops and restaurants, tantalizing food and a dynamic arts and entertainment scene. One thing for sure, we won’t go hungry.

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The first thing we accomplished early the next morning was to buy theatre Tickets to “Muriel’s Wedding”, a cheeky new Australian musical, based on a popular film of the same name. It was playing in the historic Her Majesty’s Theatre just steps from our hotel. The show was vibrant and fun and we were awed by the magnificent 1700 seat theatre originally built in 1886; it currently exhibits a classy art deco style. A thoroughly enjoyable evening was followed by a short walk to the hotel to prepare for our last tour of the trip, The Great Ocean Road.

The Great Ocean Road

53639345_1855746307864165_3465691896637030400_nFred from Oceania Tours arrived at 7:45am and loaded the van with a total of 9 guests. This is one fantastic guide. He also had plenty of bird feed on hand to attract the cockatoos and parrots.

Fred from Oceania ToursFred’s narration was non stop and very informative. He arrived in Melbourne as a boy and his Aussie humor was on display along with his bush hat and quick wit.

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In addition to the usual great attractions such as the Loch Ard Gorge and Twelve Apostles (there are only 8), Fred sought out locations we would like such as Kangaroo and Koala hangouts so we could get up close and personal.

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We had an action packed day topped off by a drive to the Crown Casino on the Yarro river downtown so we could witness the hourly fire show. . . Wow! After a 13 hour tour we had to face final packing for the flights home.

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The 6:00 am limo arrived on time and we were off to the airport. As usual the Virgin Australia staff was very helpful in getting our bags check all the way through to LAX so we wouldn’t have to deal with them in Brisbane. All flights were pleasant and on time. The Brisbane to Los Angeles leg was only 12 hours, an hour less than our day with Fred! We left Melbourne on Thursday at 8:00 am and arrived in LA on Thursday at 7:00 am. We picked up the day we lost crossing the International Date Line.

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The LAX International Terminal is a horror show. Even with Global Entry I was a victim of White Profiling. I should have worn facial jewelry and sported a neck tattoo if I wanted to be ignored. After pushing two carts full of luggage that would make a Sherpa’s eyes roll, we finally arrived at the domestic departure area. There was no availability in the Sky Lounge so we were forced to wait with the unwashed masses for three hours to board our flight.

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Unfortunately, LAX does not have enough seating for the crowds and the bathrooms were backed up like halftime at the Superbowl. The flight, however, was on time and we paid up for better seats so we were delighted to arrive in Tampa after 28 hours, 18 of which was spent in an airline seat.

We spent the limo ride home discussing our travel plans and the return visit to Australia and New Zealand, which is for sure. . . they are amazing countries with wonderful people. Speaking of wonderful, thank you for coming along and we hope that you enjoyed the trip nearly as much as we did. Hope to see you all soon, maybe in the Whitsundays!

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Best regards,

Bobby Di

 

 

 

 

 

New Zealand, Oceania Insignia

Kia Ora New Zealand

Ahoy Kiwis!

Day 24 found us sailing south toward New Zealand. We noted the cooler weather and enjoyed a sunny day with moderate wind and five foot seas. Starting to feel sinus congestion, I took measures to mediate the effects of infection. First step. . . no Bombay Sapphire Martinis for a few days. . .  OUCH, that hurt!

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As you know, New Zealand is an island in the South Pacific, 1,200 miles east of Australia across the Tasman Sea. It consists of two main islands, the North Island, which has most of the population of 4.5 million and the South Island which is the slightly larger. The combined land mass is about 990 miles long and 250 miles wide and has about the same surface area as the state of Colorado.

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Due to its remote location, New Zealand was one of the last land masses to be settled by humans. The Polynesians arrived in about 1250 AD and developed the Maori culture.  The Europeans did not arrive and settle until Captain Cook mapped the entire coastline in 1769. The white settlers and the Maori had a history of conflict until a treaty was signed in 1840. Soon thereafter, it became a colony of the British Empire until 1947, when became a constitutional monarchy with a parliamentary democracy. Currently, it is identified as of the world’s most stable, well-governed states.

I was excited to return to New Zealand and we planned on visiting three destinations on North Island: Bay of Islands in the Northland, Auckland, the largest city and Wellington, the southernmost capital in the World.

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Paihia

After three days at sea, we awoke on Day 26 in the Bay of Islands, New Zealand. It was noticeably cooler at about 60 degrees with a 20 knot wind. We anchored off of Waitangi and took the tender to the pier and a 5 minute shuttle ride to the lovely seaside town of Paihia.

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Paihai

With its friendly locals, trendy cafés and restaurants it’s a great tourist town and home for many recreational activities, including diving, snorkeling and kayaking.

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Russell Ferry

 

 

 

 

 

 

We made our way to the pier and took the ferry to nearby Russell , home to whalers and traders in the 18th and 19th century and a super anchorage for boaters today.

The weather was a perfect 72 degrees with a warming sun, so we arranged a tour of the area on a minibus for a bit of history including a visit to the Russell Museum with its 1/5 size replica of Captain Cook’s Endeavor.

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Russell

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Russell

To complete the day, we enjoyed a coffee in the historic Pompallier House before our return to Paihai, followed by a one mile walk back to the Waitangi pier.

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Hilton Paihai

Along the way, we strolled along the grassy apron adjacent to the beach and glimpsed modern waterside houses and condos until we reached the pier and boarded  the tender to return to Insignia.

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Paihai

Auckland is Awesome! We woke at Prince’s Wharf in the downtown Port of Auckland for great views of this wonderful city. Although old-fashioned and traditional with friendly people, it is modern, vibrant and clean. . . could this be Bobamala?

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Auckland

 

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Ferry Building

With no definite touring plan we strolled along the busy pier with its shops and eateries and visited the “i site” tour office and arranged a 3 hour tour of the city highlights.

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Our driver, Paul, was a stout Mauri gentlemen with a wonderful Kiwi accent. He did a great job of navigating the city, describing points of interest, the homes of the rich and famous and provided visits to Winter Gardens, as well as,  Mt. Eden, a dormant volcano and Cornwell Park, a working farm within the city limits. Paul warned us not to talk to the sheep!

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We returned to downtown Auckland to visit the shops on Queen Street. There were many wool and sheepskin items for sale, but also notable was the presence of Gucci, Prada and other designer stores.

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Since I was a bit shaggy, Robin escorted me to a men’s hairstylist was a Middle Eastern fellow with dark, deep set eyes. The haircut was actually not bad, but I got a bit nervous when he used a Bic lighter to burn the hair from my ears. Since he wasn’t wearing an explosive vest, I didn’t protest. I can hear a bit better too. . .  so I violated the New Zealand “no tipping” policy.

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Great White Bus 

 

We would put in a very rough sea day sailing the 550 nautical miles to Wellington. The wind was recorded at 45 knots and the seas were likely 12 to 15 feet. Since the ship is only 593 feet long and 84 feet wide, there was quite a bit of pitch and roll. We could have used some tie downs to keep us on the mattress. Since I was awake at 0400 and there was no one awake to clog the broadband, I logged onto a trading platform and executed a few option trades. My trading friends will understand, they know I’m a bit of an options addict.

East of North IslandOn Day 29 we arrived at the city of Wellington, New Zealand’s culinary and cultural capital. With its population of only 200,000 it is a compact city with a mix of culture, history, nature and cuisine.

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Wellington

It was also cold and windy, unlike the usual climate in the northern part of the island. We embarked on a tour of the city, including a cable car ride at Lambton Quay up the hill to the suburb of Kelburn. A visit to the Wellington Botanic Gardens, Historic Old St Paul’s Cathedral, built in 1867 and a drive to the overlook on Mt. Victoria for a few photos completed our morning.

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Wellington Cable Car

 

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Wellington Botanic Gardens

 

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St Paul's Church
Old St. Paul’s

 

We returned to the ship and took advantage of its amenities and the solitude while other guests were still touring.  With sail away at 6:00 pm it wasn’t long before we were met with heavy winds and rough seas in the dining room. Of course, the service was superb as there were fewer diners and an accommodating staff.

IMG_8251 3We’ll have another three sea days and 1225 nautical miles crossing the Tasman Sea until we arrive at Sydney. When we are about 450 nautical miles east of Australia the Captain announced that due to a medical emergency affecting a crew member, we will arrive in Sydney earlier than planned. He then cruised at the max speed of 20.5 knots which brought us to Sydney a day ahead of schedule.

We entered Sydney Harbour at 1500 hours and cruised past the iconic Opera House and under the Sydney Harbour Bridge. Cruising slowly through the busy harbour and between the racing sailboats and ferry traffic was a wonderful experience!

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We have finally arived at our destination at this gleaming, vibrant and cosmopolitan city.  We have travelled 10,260 nautical miles (11,800 statue miles) or about ½ the distance around the world and are thrilled to disembark and spend an extra day in this wonderful city.

We spent the early evening on the trendy, upscale Darling Harbour waterfront and enjoyed al fresco dining in the absolutely perfect weather of 75 degrees with a clear sky and a light cool breeze.  A dreamy evening. . .  I think Robin may want to stay a while.

We will have another 12 days of touring in Australia .  Come along with us as we visit Sydney for 5 days, then fly to Hamilton Island on the Barrier Reef for some diving, snorkeling and sailing. We’ll then fly to city of Melbourne for a few days of touring before we return.

Thanks for being great shipmates!

Captain Bobby

American Samoa and Fiji

Talofa and Bula, Bula

Ahoy Mates!

As we continued our nautical journey through Oceania, Day 20 had us 775 nautical miles from French Polynesia, headed west to American Samoa just 340 miles away. It was another beautiful day at sea for relaxation and some research.

OCeania & FP

American Samoa or Tutuila Island which is under U.S. sovereignty is a quite striking with its natural beauty. 1,600 nautical miles from Hawaii and 840 miles south of the Equator, the island boasts coral reefs offshore, rainforests, waterfalls and a Star Kist Tuna factory, which is how Nancy Pelosi funds her sartorial spleandor.

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Charlie

The island has a population of about 65,000. Pago Pago ( pronounced Pango Pango), the  capital has 9,000 residents. By the way, Samoa is pronounced “Sam wah”, not “Sam oh ah”. We were told that when pronounced “Sam oh ah”, it is the native word for the ocular discharge also known as “eye oogies”. Now you know!

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PAGO PAGO

After docking in Fagatogo, we were greeted by cries of the local greeting, “TALOFA”. We started our walk into town in the 85 degree heat and humidity and thought that taking one of the local brightly painted tour busses was a better idea, even though they lacked air conditioning and padded seats.

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Our tour guide was a very pleasant Samoan woman who was also a school teacher. A fairly young woman with six children, she told us that having many children was the norm. . .  her brother, the driver, had 9. They do receive assistance from the U.S. Government, but from what we saw, they live quite modestly yet happily. We were relieved to hear that there has been no evidence of cannibalism for years!

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Flower Pot Rocks

We drove along the coast and visited legendary “Flower Pot Rocks” and learned some of the Samoan way of life where the head of the extended family enjoys great respect.

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Our tour took us past the Tuna Factory and onward to beach resorts and the famous $2 beach where the entry fee is $5.00 . . . inflation, we were told.

 

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Two Dollar Beach

It was back to the ship once again we enjoyed the usual pleasures of cruising. . . having a wonderful staff indulge your every whim while eating wonderful food.

Oceania Cruises operates only six ships famous for its voyages around the world on its award-winning mid sized ships offering fine cuisine at sea.

Oceania Insignia

 

The Oceania Insignia was built in 1998 and just refitted just two months ago. Every surface of every stateroom is entirely new and public spaces have a refreshed color palette of soft sea and sky tones with the renewal of all fabrics as part of a sweeping rejuvenation. It is the embodiment of simple elegance. It is 593 feet long with an 84 foot beam, hosting just 684 passengers with a staff of 400, a 1.7 to 1 ratio.

About one half of the passengers are on a World Cruise lasting 180 days and visiting over 100 ports. The cruise originated in New York in early January and will terminate there in July. Robin and I joined the ship for the 33-day Los Angeles to Sydney leg of the trip.  After enjoying the ship for just over 3 weeks and 7,500 nautical miles, I can understand the allure of a World Cruise.

INTERNATIONAL DATE LINE

Day 22 found us at sea having crossed the International Date Line overnight.

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The International Date Line is an imaginary line on the Earth’s surface separating one day from the next. The Line is located half way around the world from 0˚ longitude (Greenwich, London, UK).  This is also where Greenwich Time or Coordinated Universal Time (UTC) as it is now known, is established.

Then it gets a bit confusing. When you cross the Line from east to west, as we did, you add a day. Last night we crossed another time zone and the Line, so we set the clocks back one hour and up one day. So we then moved from UTC–11 hrs to UTC-12 hrs to UTC + 12 hrs. In other words, we moved from Tuesday to Thursday and lost Wednesday!! Luckily, we’ll gain it on the way back.

To illustrate, we live on the east coast of the US (EST or UTC -5 hrs.).  Now, approaching Fiji, we are at (UTC + 12 hrs). or 17 hrs. ahead of EST.

When we arrive in New Zealand (UTC + 13 hrs.) we’ll be 18 hrs. ahead of EST.  Alternatively, EST will be 6 hrs ahead, but one day behind. Got it?

Does anybody know what time it really is?

Fiji
FIJI

The archipelago of Fiji has 340 islands and we arrived in Suva, Vita Levu the hub of entire island grouping. Suva, the capital and home to the majority of population is a energetic, colorful city with a confluence of ethnicities and cultures.

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SUVA, VITA LEVU, FIJI

“Bula” is the traditional Fiji greeting. Armed with our new language skill, we thought it best to indulge ourselves with a trip to the Pearl South Pacific Resort on Pacific Beach, known for its expansive beach and sapphire waters.

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“BULA” at The Pearl

We boarded a modern air-conditioned bus for the 1 hour drive and narrated tour to Pacific Beach. After a hearty welcome with a traditional song and festive dance, we enjoying a long beach walk and an invigorating swim was a welcomed change from life in a lounge chair.

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PACIFIC BEACH

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PEARL PACIFIC RESORT

After a day at the resort, we returned to the ship and readied ourselves for the three day sail south to New Zealand.  We will arrive in the Bay of Islands in the Northland after logging 1060 miles. We’ll be leaving the warmth of the South Pacific Islands and heading for cooler climes.

French Polynesia

Ohe´ French Polynesia!

Ahoy Mates!

We hope that you enjoyed Kauaii, Oahu and Hawaii as much as we did. Thanks for continuing with us on our journey to French Polynesia. This is an area of the Pacific that invokes visions of towering verdant peaks, indescribable hues of blue water and perfect beaches shaded by tropical palms. You will not be disappointed.

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Insignia Route Map

During our 1950 nautical mile passage from Hilo to Nuka Hiva in the Marquesas we crossed the Equator. As you know, The Equator is an imaginary line approximately half way between the North and South Poles and is about 25,000 miles in length.

On day 12, we “Crossed the Line”. When crossing the equator, sailing tradition demands that one pay homage to King Neptune. This usually encompasses a variety of odd rituals, from drinking nasty potions to uttering incantations and other nasty hazing experiences, including sexual assault. On our voyage, all we needed to do was kiss a fish and get doused by ice cold water in order to graduate from a “polywog” to an honorable “shellback”.

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King Neptune and crew initiate a “Polywog”  

Although I have crossed the equator before, I never received the proper initiation. Robin and I made the transition together and after the proper baptism, but without the aforementioned assault, were quite painlessly deemed “Shellbacks”.

Soon thereafter, we entered the waters of French Polynesia.

French PolynesiaFrench Polynesia is a collection of 118 islands and atolls scattered over an area the size of western Europe with a much smaller land mass. It is about halfway between Los Angeles and Sydney, Australia and as far south of the Equator as Hawaii is north and is in the same time zone.

NUKA HIVA

We anchored at Nuka Hiva in French Polynesia on Day 14. Nuka Heva is the largest of the Marquesas and their people are most likely the ones that first settled the Hawaiian Islands in 400 to 500 AD. The Marquesas are often the first stop for sailing circumnavigators after they pass the Panama Canal over 4,000 NM away.

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Nuka Hiva, Marquesas, French Polynesia

After tendering in, we joined a tour of the Taipivai Valley. First, we visited the Notre Dame Cathedral built in the 1800’s in the small town of Taiohae and then boarded a 4×4 SUV type pickup in a caravan of 15 vehicles. We marveled at the tortuous and winding climb up the mountain on our way to the tour of the awe inspiring Taipivai Valley.

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Taipivai Valley

The roads were narrow yet paved and the roadway network was only recently completed in 2008. We stopped for photos of some magnificent vistas and then visited a village meeting site for some refreshments and a sample of breadfruit, papayas and bananas. The breadfruit chips were especially tasty. After a stop at Hooumi beach we returned to the ship happy with our introduction to French Polynesia.

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Hooumi Beach

With a couple of more sea days to prepare for touring and scuba diving we enjoyed some free time and also some enrichment lectures on Oceanography and Worldwide Naval History. Robin, of course, wowed some of our fellow cruisers with her latest needlepoint project.

RANGIROA

Day 16, Thurs Day February 14th, Valentine’s day. The Insignia anchored in the Rangiroa Lagoon.

RangiroaWe had to board tenders again for the five-minute ride to the pier. Thanks again to the crew for a well-organized and timely tendering. While Robin toured the Gaugin Black Pearl Farm, I was picked up at the pier in a rigid inflatable boat (RIB) and deposited at the Yaka Plongee dive shop for a 10:00 am dive. The current was right for a drift dive between Avatoru and Tiputa, usually their signature dive.  In a 4 to 6 foot chop, the guide Thomas and I back-rolled, Mike Nelson style, into the current. How were my underwater photos, you ask? Let’s just say, it is tough to compose photos when you flying underwater at 1.5 knots! Also, the visibility was not ideal at only 40 feet, but you know me . . . I don’t complain!!  We did manage to spot some schooling chevron barracuda and the usual striking reef dwellers like colorful Butterflies and Moorish Idols.

TAHITI

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Papeete, Tahiti, French Polynesia

We arrived at our half way point of the cruise in Tahiti on Day 17. By 7:00 am Insignia was docked in Papeete,  a bustling, multicultural city of about 200,000 people, not the idyllic island town that most people imagine.  The majority of Tahiti; however,  is a scenic island with lush landscapes and large waterfalls which is what we explored on our Jeep Safari.

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Overlooking Papeete, Tahiti

The vehicle was actually a 4X4 pickup-like vehicle with bench seating for 8 in the rear bed. We entered the Papenoo Valley and travelled on mostly unpaved deeply pitted roads, crossing some rivers and streams to get some great views of the valley, mountains and waterfalls.

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Papenoo Valley

 

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Our bodies were only mildly tortured by the three hour jostling. After return to the ship all discomfort was forgotten as  it was time for lunch, relaxation and preparation for cocktails and another fabulous dinner.

BORA BORA

The next day we anchored in the Bora Bora Lagoon, the quintessential tropical Pacific island. With its lush vegetation covering the extinct volcanos contrasting with the vivid turquoise water it’s about as close to Bobamala as one can get.

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Bora Bora

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Pearl Beach Resort

I sampled the fabled diving with a two tank dive, one in the lagoon and one where we intended to go outside the reef and meet with  some sharks and rays. The wind was blowing 25 knots and the sea was at 6 to 8 feet, so it was decided to return within the lagoon to try our luck spotting a Manta Ray. Bad luck. The visibility was actually very poor on both dives, but overall, the experience with Eleuthra Bora Divers was a good one with helpful and capable guides.

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While I was diving, Robin was enjoying a tour of the lagoon in a Catamaran, followed by a swim in the crystalline blue water with its inviting 80 degree temperature.

The next day we were again at sea on our way to American Samoa. To keep the tradition alive of eating yourself silly on a cruise ship, we enjoyed a lavish Sunday Brunch. On the Insignia World Cruise this is a quarterly extravaganza of food, ice and food sculptures, delectible desserts and impeccable service from the wonderful crew.

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Olga says “Privyet”

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Hawaiian Islands

Aloha. . . Mahalo!

Land Ho!!!

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Nawiliwili, Kauai

After 5 1/2 days at sea and travelling 2,050 nautical miles from Los Angeles, we arrived at Kauai, the oldest of the Hawaiian Islands also called the Garden Island due to its lush green valleys and pristine rainforests.  The striking island of Kauai also features towering ocean cliffs and cascading waterfalls.

We arrived at the port of Nawiliwili on Kauai in a morning mist and mostly cloudy sky. The temperature was a pleasant 70 degrees headed up to 80 with welcomed sunshine.

We got a cab and interacted with the driver, a lanky transplant from Baltimore, who recited a litany of the benefits of living on this lovely island. He left us at Kauai Kayak, where we planned a day of kayaking and hiking.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOur young, affable guide Dustin oriented us about the day planned, which included 4 ½ miles of kayaking on the beautiful Wailea, the only navigable river in all of Hawaii. This was to be followed by a 1 ½ hour hike to the Secret Falls which features many streams to cross and plenty of ankle-deep mud to keep it interesting.

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Wailea River Marina

It promised to be an easy 2 mile plus paddle to the hiking trail, but some of the group of 10 were wind-milling their blades apparently believing there was prize money at the end of the day.

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The deceptively tranquil beginning of the Mud Trail from Hell!

The trail to the Secret Waterfall was winding and strewn with obstacles including fallen trees, gargantuan tree roots, swift river crossings and an unbelievable amount of thick, sticky mud, which robbed many of their footwear.

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I encouraged Robin to soldier on, though mud baths are not her thing. After what seem liked days, we arrived at the waterfall in an hour and a half and enjoyed a prepared lunch on a moss covered rock. Lovely!

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I was not aware that running through mud was a skill that I possessed, but we were in a hurry to get back to the kayak and leave the risk of broken bones and world of mud behind. After over an hour of paddling and just ten minutes before we arrived at the marina, a heavy rain squall ensured that we had less mud to wash off of our bodies.

After changing into dry clothers, guide Dustin was kind enough to give us a ride to Duke’s Canoe Club at the Nawiliwili Harbor. Here we met up with a high school classmate who lives and works in Kauai. It was great to see Max Trapp and catch up on the fifty years that passed since we last met. Thanks for your hospitality, Max!

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Max, Robin and Bob at Duke’s

OAHU

On day 8, we docked at Pier 2 in Honolulu on Oahu under sunny skies and 78 degree temps. We were pleasantly surprised with the wonderful weather, since our last visit here in 2017 was a bit gloomy.

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Waikiki

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We disembarked and were transported to the Hilton Hawaiian Village on Wakiki to board a launch, which under the shadow of Diamond Head, transferred us to the Atlantis Submarine. The vessel accommodates 40 passengers for an undersea odyssey to 120 feet below the ocean’s surface.

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Now this is Robin’s kind of diving! We did managed to see a few wrecks, turtles, eagle rays, white tip sharks and free swimming green moray eels along with the usual Jacks, assorted colorful Butterflies, Surgeon fish, Filefish, Sergeant Majors, Rainbow Parrotfish and Moorish Idols.

IMG_8198 After a leisurely stroll through hotel gardens ,we enjoyed a cocktail and a delicious  lunch at Tropics Bar and Grill on Waikiki on a perfect warm, sunny day with a light breeze.

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Looking down at our feet, there we vestiges of recalcitrant Wailea mud from our hike yeasterday, which begged for removal. Siri helped us find a nearby nail salon where we enjoyed a pedicure at Luxure Nail Salon on Ala Moana Blvd. With a spring in our step, Uber ferried us back to Pier 2, me with exfoliated lower extremities and Robin sporting sparkling gel nail polish!

 

HAWAII

Day 9 found us on the Island of Hawaii also known as The Big Island, Orchid Isle and Volcano Island . We docked at Hilo on the SE coast and joined a “Volcanoes and Blossoms”  tour on a comfortable mini bus.

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Kilauea Visitor Center

The weather at Kilauea Visitor’s center was chilly and breezy so we took advantage of the self-guided tour within the center, followed by an entertaining lecture by the most gregarious tour guide in the National Park Service. He described the nature and power of volcanic activity on the island including the much publicized eruption of Kilauea just last year. Many parts of the park remained closed due to the event.

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Robin warms up to the Kilauea Steam Vents

We then travelled just a few minutes away to the Steam vents emanating from the Kilauea Caldera. Robin took the opportunity to let mother nature warm her up a bit in the 100 plus degree heat of the steam vents.

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Kilauea Iki Crater

It is difficult to capture the vast nature of the Caldera. . .  it’s truly an amazing sight!

From there we travelled to the Akatsuka Gardens and Orchid Farm. . .magnificent! After brathing in the Sulphur Dioxide of the volcanic steam vents, we could have spent much more time here with the lovely fragrance and beauty of these orchards.

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Volcano Queen
Volcano Queen

The star of the the Orchid Show, with its perfect symmetry and horizontal side petals, is the prize winning Volcano Queen orchid  which displays a $20,000 price tag!

Lastly, no trip to Hawaii would be complete without a visit to the Mauna Loa Factory store. Hawaii is the world’s largest producer of Macademia nuts. As you can tell by my increased  girth, a decision was made to avoid the purchase of any of the islands signature crop.

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Well, it’s back to the ship to continue our journey south to French Polynesia. The nearly 2,000 nautical mile trip will have us “Cross the Line”, aka the Equator, before we arrive in Nuka Hiva. We’ll have four sea days to prepare for our next tour. In the meantime, we’ll be sure to enjoy the amenties of the ship and the comraderie of our fellow travelers. Believer it not, I’ve made a few friends!!

Wish us fair winds and following seas,

Captain Bobby

Oceania Insignia

Timing is Everything!

Ahoy Mates!

One of the most common sayings in the boating world is that the two happiest days in one’s life is when he buys a boat and when he sells it.  When we settled on SABA, our Hunter 38 sailboat, in May of 2009, we were jubilant and looking forward to the adventure that she would bring us. We were not disappointed! If you have following this blog for the last few years we know you’ll agree. In the ten years that have passed we have put over 8,000 nautical miles under her keel in South Florida, the Keys, as well as, the Abacos and Exumas of the Bahamas. It has been about 90 % pleasure, 5 % concern and 5% sheer terror!

 

Downwind in the Exumas
Downnwind sailing in the Exumas

There comes a time when you consider your options and realize that one the other common sayings is: “Sailing is defined as the most expensive way to travel third class”! And so it was for us. We offered our beloved SABA for adoption and in less than two months the sale was consummated. With the plethora of fond memories and great adventures the emotion we experienced was not one of happiness, but hope that the new owners would enjoy her as much as we had.

Joe of Preferred Yachts in St Petersburg helped us market our pride and joy with great effect:   http://vessel.iyba.pro/yacht-for-sale/40000040/?id=80196&vessel=2764269&title=2009Hunter38%27380-null

The timing could not have been better. Less than one week after the sale, we embarked on the Oceania Insignia, a 593 foot cruise ship with 682 other guests. Oceania is famous for its voyages around the world, award-winning mid-size ships and the finest cuisine at sea. This promised to be a premium cruise experience at sea with over 400 staff to pamper us. We boarded the ship in San Pedro near Long Beach for the 32 day cruise to Sydney which included 19 sea days and 13 ports of call. No more 3am watches!!

Oceania Insignia
OCEANIA Insignia

 

To embark on the Insignia, we first flew into LAX from Tampa and arranged to meet my cousin Gregory Scott Cummins in Marina del Rey. Greg is an actor that you may have seen Greg in “Cliffhanger” with Sylvester Stallone or in a myriad of other works including “Bosch”, “It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia”, “NCIS” and countless other productions. At 6’4” with steely blue eyes, he’s usually typecast a villain, violent arms dealer, money launderer or other unsavory type, but he’s a wonderful guy and he bought us lunch! And many thanks for the great FACEBOOK post:

Greg FB

 

We had a two day respite in downtown Long Beach and a tour of the Queen Mary was just the activity to get us ready for our voyage. At over 1,000 feet in length and a 118 foot beam she has a great history serving as a luxury cruise liner for the rich and famous including Royalty, Hollywood types and politicians, as well as, a troop carrier during WWII.

Queen Mary

We spent over 5 hours touring the ship reliving the Glory Days of such a grand lady with truly luxurious salons and accommodations. They boasted the use of over 50 hardwoods from all over the world and incredible artwork.

 

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Reception and Shops

 

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Queen’s Salon

 

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Queen’s Salon

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Royal Salon

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The next day we started the journey that we planned over 19 months ago. The transfer to the ship including loading our ample luggage was efficient and courteous. After boarding, it was obvious that the Oceania experience would exceed our expectations. The staff was welcoming and kind. Their actions assured us that we were in for a trip of a lifetime.

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Reception Hall6017

The Pacific Ocean is the world’s largest body of water. It covers about one third of the Earth’s surface. It is twice the size of the Atlantic. All of the land masses on the planet can fit within the boundaries of the Pacific Ocean with room to spare. Obviously, crossing it in a ship takes more time than your usual Caribbean holiday. Here is the detailed itinerary:

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So it is Monday morning and our sixth day at sea. We have traveled 2150 nautical miles since departing  Los Angeles. We’re about 200  nautical miles from Nawiliwili, Kauai and will be arriving there tomorrow morning at 07:00.  Many have wondered what there is to do to pass the time on a cruise ship. Trust me, there are enough activities to keep any ADHD victim off his meds. In addition to enrichment lectures on various topics including history and oceanography, there is bridge, table tennis, putting, spin classes, pilates, yoga, art lessons, a stocked library, computer room, card room, bingo, slots, blackjack, baggo bean, dancing lessons, chamber music, a jazz band, entertaining shows, jewelry seminars, model ship building, afternoon tea, team trivia, religious services, wine tasting, martini tasting, Solo Travelers Cocktails and also LGBTQ Get Togethers for those who wish to switch teams. And how can I forget . . . all you can eat , all the time!

Overall the passage has been relaxing except for day three when we powered through 15′ seas and 25 knots of wind doing 19 knots over ground. There were quite a few people missing from the dining room that night! Robin is busy with a needlepoint project and reading while I am spending time reading and organizing photos and writing this blog entry. We just learned that a USCG helicopter will be evacuating one of our cruisemates at 15:00. The good news is, I don’t think it’s Robin or me.

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Spray over our balcony rail on day 3, we’re 6 levels above the water line!

We’ve got a few activities planned during our three stops in Hawaii. I’ll update you after we do some kayaking, meetup with friends on the island, take a submarine ride and hike a volcano or two.

Please feel free to comment on this entry and share it with your friends and family if you like. Look for our Hawaii adventures in my next post on the way to Nuka Hiva in the Marquesas.

Aloha for now.

Captain Bobby

Florida Keys, Great Bahama Bank, Gulfcoast Florida, Passage to the U.S.

Back to the US, Immigration and Dr. Mudd

After three weeks in Bahamian waters including visiting seven spots in the Abacos it was time to return to the U.S. so that the Commissioner could resume her duties . During this time Robin had devoured eleven books and completed an amazing needlepoint project. All I did was keep us afloat and moving from one location to the other with Robin’s help.

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Florida to West End of Grand Bahama Island, then on to the Abacos and return via the Northwest Providence Channel and the Great Bahama Bank to Cat Cay and then the Gulf Stream crossing to Fowey Rocks

We were awakened by an increase in wind over Cat Cay giving promise of a crossing by sail, but the passing squall left us with 1 – 2 knots of wind from the east.  After we navigated the narrow cut between Gun Cay and Cat Cay passing the Gun Cay lighthouse, we were soon feeling the effects of the Gulf Stream current.

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Gun Cay Lighthouse

In order to keep a course over ground of 280 degrees we were steering 250 to 255 to counter the effect of the 2.5 knot current. You would never guess that the current was strong looking at the water surface, it looked like the surface of a calm lake! I took the opportunity to call ahead to the Marathon Marina while we still had cell service to reserve a slip for tomorrow morning as we had a 24 hour trip ahead of us.

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Gulf Stream sea condition FAC (flat ass calm!)

Even though the wind was still light we had the mainsail up, not so much for stability or additional speed, but just to look good! We didn’t have much company crossing the Stream, we encountered few cargo ships along the way, but since the Aby Scarlett was going to pass only .3 miles away, I called the bridge on the VHF. According to maritime law in this instance we had the right of way, but knowledge of basic physics warns of the impending doom when you collide with a 873 foot ship doing 13.5 knots.

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Aby Scarlet, as she appears on A.I.S. blinking “red” indicating a collision course

“Good morning Captain, this is the sailboat Saba 3 miles off of your starboard bow, I see that our CPA (Closest Point of Approach) is .3 nautical miles so we are altering course 20 degrees to port and will pass your stern.” He responded politely, thanked us and wished us a safe voyage.

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Aby Scarlett an 873 ft. Bulk Cargo Container Ship passes by after our course change.

We made the 47 mile Gulf Stream crossing in 8.5 hours averaging 5.5 knots. It’s always a pleasure to return to “soundings” where your depth finder actually registers a number rather than “deep” and the cerrulian blue waters of the Hawk Channel welcome you home.

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Fowey Rocks, south of Miami are a welcome sight!

Rounding Fowey Rocks put the wind on our beam and we had a glorious and peaceful sail down the Hawk Channel as we had the waterway to ourselves. After 5 hours of sailing, the wind died again so it was back to motorsailing.

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SABA enjoying a beam reach!

We motorsailed through the night and as we usually do altered watches every 2 to 4 hours to enable the other crew member to sleep. We arrived at the Marathon Marina in the morning and tied up at the fuel dock to fuel up  with help from the friendly staff. Our slip was ready for us and was as before in a convenient spot.

After tying up, we called the Customs and Border Patrol on an 800 number and checked in using the Small Vessel Reporting System. We are each registered personally and our boat is registered as well to allow for easy check in. One minute later we heard, “Welcome home” from the friendly agent.

We used our time in Marathon to do some laundry and some complete mundane boat tasks. Since we had a great internet connection I was able to place quite a few Stock Option trades. As many of you know, this is a passion of mine and an indication that I was back in business!

Our special surprise in Marathon was our dinner at Frank’s Grill. The place is tucked away in a strip shopping center and from outward appearances not especially inviting.

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Frank’s Grill Marathon, Florida

We were greeted warmly and the food was fantastic…possibly the best Frutti de Mare Fra Diavlo I have ever had and Robin’s veal marsala was superb. The homemade desserts including the cheesecake and key lime pie were fabulous. Frank made a point of coming out of the kitchen to say “hello”…great guy, super chef!

When you are in the keys, stop by for dinner. During season, reservations are a must.     http://www.franksgrillmarathon.com

After our two day hiatus in Marathon, it was off for Key West, only 42 miles distant. With 6 – 7 knots of wind from the SE we motorsailed to one of our favorite locations, Key West Bight. We tied up stern-to at the A & B Marina, right in the middle of Key West marina activity

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SABA dwarfed by sportfishers and motoryachts at the A & B Marina

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A & B Marina dock

After tying up and checking in it was time for exploring all the Marina had to offer. The staff was friendly and helpful and the shower facilities were some of the best we’ve found in our travels. We also were impressed with the convivial atmosphere of the marina with it’s coffee shop, bar and restaurant and great happy hour at the White Tarpon. I got my fill of $1 oysters before we headed out for the evening.

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Key West Bight restaurants and marinas

Grunt’s on Caroline Street is one of the oldest bars in Key West. Thursday nights feature the “Shanty Hounds” a local group of muscians.  We met singer/songwriters Dani Hoy and Chris Rehm a couple of years ago and we take in their shows whenever we can. As usual, they kept an eclectic group entertained through the evening. Thanks to Dani, Chris and Bob for making us feel like a part of their family!

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The SHANTY HOUNDS at Grunt’s Bar on Caroline

There are few places better for breakfast in Key West than Ricky’s BLUE HEAVEN. The place always seem packed, but the short wait seems even shorter with one of their signature Bloody Marys. The fresh baked breads, inventive breakfast entrees are delicious, not to mention what is probably the best key lime pie on the planet!

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Blue Heaven

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In Blue Heaven!

After that wonderful breakfast we walked back to the marina, but along the way made a few stops. In addition a clothing store, the grocery and a dive shop to try on a new 3mm wetsuit we were sidetracked by the lure of key lime pie…..again!

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Birthplace of Key Lime Pie….LET ME IN!!

In a Facebook post, I mentioned Robin and I enjoyed a Seaplane trip over to the Dry Tortugas from Key West to tour Fort Jefferson which happens to be the largest masonry structure in the Western Hemisphere with an interesting history and is surrounded by a vibrant coral reef🐠

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Aboard a de Haviland Otter Sea single engine seaplane to the Dry Tortugas

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View of Fort Jefferson from seat 6

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de Havilland Otter landing near Garden Key

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Captain at Fort Jefferson, the largest masonry structure in the Western Hemisphere

Ponce de Leon discovered the island in 1513 and named it Las Tortugas. Subsequently, it was named Dry Tortugas to warn mariners that no fresh water could be found. Having visited the Fort decades ago I did note some aging in some of the structure. Construction started in 1846 and continued for 30 years. It was never completed. Originally constructed to protect Gulf shipping it was soon deemed obsolete after it could not be protected by newly constructed rifled cannon.

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Fort Jefferson Parade Grounds

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Interior Arches

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Moat with surrounding Coral Reef

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Fort Jefferson did serve as a prison during the Civil War. It was most famous for hosting Dr. Samuel Mudd who assisted John Wilkes Booth, Abraham Lincoln’s assassin.

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Dr. Samuel Mudd’s home for four years.

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I’ll be back!!

After what was a great day at the Dry Tortugas we returned to Key West Bight to relax and enjoy yet another happy hour. This time we were joined at the Boathouse by Dani and Chris of the Shanty Hounds. We happened to sit at the same spot where we met a couple of years ago. After sharing great food and lots of laughs we retired to our boat, just steps away from boardwalk restaurants.

Time for Sunday Brunch! Our Key West resident friend of many years Joy, whom we have know since we were teenagers, recommended Lattitudes Restaurant on neighboring Sunset Key. Formerly known as Tank Island, Sunset Key is a 27 acre luxurious island community and resort accessible ony by boat.

 

Island Time Launch to Sunset Key
Island Time Launch to Sunset Key

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On our way to Latitudes Restaurant, Sunset Key

Sunset Key Cottages
Sunset Key Cottages

Lattitude at Sunset Key
Lattitude at Sunset Key

As you may imagine lunch at Latitude on Sunset Key was elegant, fabulous and made the heat, humidity and windless days of travelling a distant memory. We will be sure to return on our next vist to Key West. Thanks Joy!!

We’ll be heading north tomorrow to Captiva on our way back to St. Pete, but before we do, a visit to the Conch Republic just a few steps away from our marina was in order. We couldn’t leave without saying goodbye to Dani and Chris and to let them know that we’d be back soon.

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Dani and Chris, “The Shanty Hounds” at the Conch Republic

Leaving Key West is always difficult since we enjoy our stays here so much. It was even more difficult since there was little to no wind. We didn’t even bother raising the mainsail since the sea was so flat. We did get some help from a favorable current up the channel and for the first hour we were doing 7 to 8 knots!

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Sunset Florida Bay

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Good Morning Captiva! Rain, rain… go away!

Listening to the engine drone on for another 24 hours we reached Captiva and headed for the fuel dock at the South Seas Yacht Harbour. We have been here several times and it’s a comfortable place for us.

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South Seas Yacht Harbor, Captiva

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Ready for duty, South Seas Yacht Harbo

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Scoops and Slices at Southseas, a great spot for a sugar high!!

We relaxed for a couple of days at the pool and at the beach before making the move to our home marina. We cast off our lines at noon since we didn’t want to arrive at St. Petersburg too early and even then had some time to kill. The 96 mile journey would take about 17 hours and we wanted to arrive after 8 am.

Ten miles distant from Captiva on the intracoastal is Cabbage Key, home of the restaurant where Jimmy Buffett allegedly composed “Cheeseburger in Paradise”. Cabbage Key is really a bit of Old Florida and since it is only accessable by boat it’s not likely to change soon.

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Cabbage Cay, home of “Cheeseburger in Paradise”

We tied up at the Cabbage Key Inn dock and made our way to the Inn. Not only did we  get the famed cheeseburger but we managed to kill a couple of hours.

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Cabbage Key Island Inn Bar and Restaurant

The remainder of the trip dealt us heavy rain, confused 3 to 5 foot seas and general mayhem under a double reefed main and more engine time. Luckily for Robin her watches were a bit more comfortable and she enjoyed clear weather. I was heartened when I saw the lights of the Sunshine Skyway bridge, but 30 minutes later we were in a huge downpour. There is no doubt that the past 12 hours dealt us more weather than we had for the entire trip!

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Sunshine Skyway Bridge over Tampa Bay at 0500

As the early morning hours progressed, the sky cleared and we tied up at our familiar slip in the Vinoy Marina. We took our time getting all in order, rinsing the boat, cleaning and organizing below deck and offloading a few carts of gear.

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Safe and sound at the Vinoy Marina, St. Petersburg, FloridaI

It was a marvelous trip!

We covered 1115 Nautical Miles (1282 statue miles) over 36 days. We sailed overnight on six occasions, anchored out five nights and spent 25 days in marinas. The marina stays were more frequent due to the lack of wind to keep us comfortable at anchor.

We have sailed these Bahama trips for the last four years so I guess we earned our Bahamas degree. Our plans may change for the future. We are considering all of our options.. longer, larger and luxurious!

Thanks for following along with us. We loved having you!

Fair winds and following seas,

Captain Bobby and the Commish

Abacos, Bahamas, Great Bahama Bank

The Abacos to Cat Cay

Ahoy Mates!

After our stay in Treasure Cay it was off to Marsh Harbour, considered the main stop in the Hub of the Abacos. There are a myriad of shops, restaurants and services there, as well as, and international airport. We were able to sail most of the 17 miles to the Harbor View Marina, right in the center of restaurant district. Perfect for fresh fish dishes and a fabulous Conch Burger.

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Marsh Harbour Anchorage

We spent four days at the Marina using it as our home base for some touring. We sampled many of the restaurants including Jamie’s, a local spot with great food and friendly service, Wally’s with a more formal atmosphere and superb dishes and Mangoes for fantastic fresh fish, prepared with local flair. They were all excellent!

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Wally’s Restaurant is Wonderful!!

One of the truly wonderful things about cruising, is the interesting people that you meet. We were privledged to spend time and share dinner with Dr. Randy and Linda. He is a recently retired ER physician who along with his wife, Linda  a former nurse are starting a new life aboard their Absolute 60, a magnificent power yacht with a grand interior. We wish them all the best and hope for an invitation to join them on that floating palace! Hint, hint…

While in the Abacos I took the opportunity to schedule a dive trip with Dive Abaco for a two tank dive at the Fowl Cay Preserve about 5 miles east. I packed up my gear and walked only a block to the dive shop.

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Schlepping like a Sherpa!

After a half hour ride in a seaworthy dive boat, we arrived at the site on the ocean side of Fowl Cay. After squeezing into my wetsuit, gear and camera please note the back roll with ballerina-like entry!

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Orthotic Fins, a perfect cure for Plantar Fascitis!

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Ready to go!

Since it is a preserve fish life were very friendly as evidenced by “Ash” who has a way with the lady Nassau Groupers!

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Dive guide, Ash, locking lips with a Nassau Grouper

The dives were well planned and included many “swim-throughs” in the narrow tunnels and caverns of the coral reef.  There were schools of blue tangs and yellow tail snappers along with the usual arrow crabs and colorful cleaning shrimp. Of course, the highlight was the large group of friendly groupers!

The next day we executed our plan of returning to the USA via the Great Bahama Bank. The trip from Marsh Harbour heading south around Great Abaco and to Fowey Rock south of Miami via the Bahama Bank is 225 nautical miles (258 statue miles). The weather forecast was good with light wind and 1 foot seas. Great for a power boat, not so good for a “blow boat”. We decided to cross the Great Bahama Bank and stop and anchor in Cat Cay on the west end of the Bank. This 179 nautical mile trip would still involve an overnight so we readied the sea berth, which is nothing more than a lee cloth fitted to our port setee to allow sleeping without falling on the cabin sole (floor).

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Sea berth

We motor sailed  around Hole in the Wall on the south end of Abaco and then continued west, north of the Berry Islands.

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Hole in the Wall, Great Abaco

This part of the Atlantic Ocean between and the Bahama Bank is Cruise ship alley. Since Saturday is a busy day for ship sailings, we encountered no fewer than 8 cruise ships from Princess, Celebrity, MSC, Norwegian and Carnival. We have and use AIS or Automatic Identification System that allows you to identify ships and gives a myriad of information, like name and description of vessel, course, speed and closest point of approach, etc.

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A.I.S.  shows two cruise ships and one cargo ship at the same time…busy!

If the closest point of approach is less than one mile we always call the bridge on the VHF radio make sure that the bridge sees us and offer to make a course change. More often than not the cruise ship or cargo ship will offer to change course to avoid us!

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Cruise ship travelling at night with cargo ship in background

Morning bought with it another nearly windless day and more heat than was comfortable, but the Great Bahama Bank is one of our favorite stretches of water. The water color and quality is absolutely gorgeous! This part of the trip would require travelling about 70 miles in water only 10 to 40 feet deep. As you know, as sailors, we carry loads of technical gear, tactical equipment and specialized clothing for use in specific conditions. Crossing the Great Bahama Bank on this day required very special light cotton boxer shorts, which proved perfect for a mid-morning nap!

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Tactical gear from Macy’s

After a day of attempting to use the spinnaker to take advantage of what little wind we had we anchored just off of Cat Cay before sundown.

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Cat Cay, Bahamas

We settled in for the night in anticipation of our Gulf Stream crossing. Since we had cell phone reception our weather reports were very favorable, again predicting light winds and flat seas. Oh, how we were hoping for 10 to 15 knots out of the East for a spinnaker run!

Stay tuned for the the return to our home port of St. Petersburg via Marathon, Key West, The Dry Tortugas, Captiva and Cabbage Key.

Thanks for your wishes of fair winds!

Captain Bobby and the Admiral