SABA crosses Gulfstream to West End, Grand Bahama

Ahoy Mates,

After high wind conditions Monday and then a line of thunderstorms lasting into the afternoon we postponed our diversion to the Conch Republic (Key West). In addition, there was a battery charging issue that arose and needed to be addressed before heading to the Bahamas. We spent Tuesday morning sorting out the power issue and that was resolved with great relief. After checking weather obsessively, there was a great opportunity to set out Wednesday at 0700 and motorsail along the Keys, continue up to Miami then cross the Gulf Stream and arrive at the West End on Thursday afternoon.

As you can see from the buoy reports the winds are expected to be diminishing and turning to the southeast which will give us a more favorable point of sail. In addition, the wave heights in the Gulf Stream are expected to be 2 -3 feet, a lot better than the 5 – 8 feet predicted Monday.

Charting and route planning are also an important part of a successful trip. Using a combination of paper charts, electronic charts, cruising guides and the experience of crossing the Gulf Stream in the Straits of Florida we planned a course to take us to Abacos. This leg of the trip should cover 180 miles and take about 30 hours. We left Marathon on Wednesday morning at 0700 and then motorsailed against an east wind along the Hawk Channel. The reefed mainsail gave us stability and lift as we traveled between the Keys and the Florida Reefs. It was a lovely sunny day and we were making a bit less than 6 knots until we were able change course a bit to get more speed.

Divers who have visited the Keys are not strangers to the John Pennecamp State Park that we are now sailing through. There are some great dive sites which have been protected for decades. There are spur and groove coral formations and it is teeming with a variety of fish, turtles and invertebrates.It is also home to some wonderful wreck diving like the Speigel Grove, the Duane and the Benwood.

 

As we traveled between Islamorada and Tavernier Key we noted the usual dive boat activity near Hen and Chickens reef. I have been fortunate to have captured many good underwater photos at this site, but that’s a story for another day.

 

 

 

As we started to alter course more to the north we were able to catch more wind, so out came the jib and we freshened our pace to over 6 knots, the seas were a kindly 1 – 2 feet, a light chop, so we enjoyed the pleasant conditions.

 

 

 

 

As evening approached, we were nearing the end of the Hawk Channel. At sundown and with incredible timing, we took a course off shore with Miami off of our port bow. We made the decision to head straight for the West End from just north of Fowey Rocks rather than head north to Miami or Fort Lauderdale.

 

 

 

We planned a heading of 42 degrees for the 86 miles left to reach our destination. This would allow us more time to take advantage of the 2 – 3 knot current in the Gulfstream to increase our speed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

WOW! We were now traveling at  7.5 to 8.3 knots in 3 to 4 foot seas. At about midnight Robin reported seeing 9 knots and said that SABA was very happy. ETA is now 0900 vs 1300. As usual, we kept to our 3 hour watch schedule so we could continue our passage uninterrupted. Anchoring in 2,000 feet of water would be a bit difficult, so we just press on! SABA has a comfortable sea berth below so we can sleep without worrying about falling on the floor in heavy seas and for all of you Jewish mothers out there, with all the provisions aboard we have plenty to eat while we travel.

LAND HO!!

At about 0700 on Thursday, 24 hours after we left the protection of Boot Key Harbor in Marathon we spotted the tower on the West End. Our destination was only about 2 hours ahead. Preparations for landfall were made. Put up the “Q” flag that lets the host country know that we have not cleared customs. Take in the jacklines, the nylon webbing that extends from bow to stern that I attach my safety harness to if I need to go forward. Take out the dock lines and fenders and prepare to furl the Mainsail as we approach the harbor.

We called the Old Bay Marina on the VHF and had to stooge around a bit while we waited for a number of pleasure fishing boats to fill up and leave the fuel dock. We tied up after waiting our turn to get fuel and get our slip assignment. After docking, I filled out a handful of Bahamas paperwork for Customs and Immigration on board. I marched over to the island purple Customs shack and with unusual government courtesy and competency we are now legal in the Bahamas, but $300 lighter due to the cost of the Bahamas Cruising Permit.

Returning to our slip I took down the “Q” flag and replaced it with the Bahamas Courtesy Flag which SABA will be wearing for a few weeks. Now it’s time to hose down the boat. I use an old trick I learned in my yacht delivery days of adding white vinegar to the wash bucket to cut the salt. Now she looks great….and smells like a salad! Just enough time to shower, check out the resort and then take a long nap before dinner.

 

The grounds of  the Old Bay Yacht Resort were impeccably maintained and the entire staff is friendly and helpful. The marina is busy with pleasure fishing boats and their crews. You’ll find all sorts of boats from center consoles to sport fishers to luxury yachts with numerous crew. Everyone was quick to say “hello” and start conversation, which scared the hell out of me.

It’s Friday night and I hear this place gets crazy on the weekend so we’ll be heading out to explore the Abacos tomorrow morning. We’ll be on anchored off of some uninhabited Cays like Mangrove Cay and Double Breasted Cay….. I like the sound of that.

Next update will be when we are in range of a cell tower so I can use my iphone hotspot for a wifi connection, whatever that hell that means.

Welcome to the Bahamas Mon!

Captain Bobby