SABA cruises to the Conch Republic

Ahoy Mates!

Thank you for following our sojourn in the Abacos. Our 18 day visit to these islands rich in history included stops at uninhabited islands, small settlements and busy harbors. The experiences were varied but locals and visitors alike were always friendly and welcoming. We spent our last evening at Wally’s in Marsh Harbour celebrating our stay in these wonderful islands. We left the friendly environment of the Harbour View Marina with some trepidation as we cast off the lines starting our journey back to the United States.

Our route planning involved transiting a tricky channel from the Sea of Abaco into the Atlantic Ocean then  traveling south along the inhospitable lee shore of Great Abaco. There are few anchorages along the way, so we enjoyed some magnificent sailing and just kept alternating our watches and continued on. We rounded Great Abaco at an iffy anchorage called Hole in the Wall then transited the the Northwest Providence Channel and the northern section of the Great Bahama Bank toward Bimini. Already with 32 hours in and 172 miles under our keel we bypassed the popular “island in the stream” because wind and waves were favorable. I guess we just wanted to continue to be cradled in the arms of Mother Ocean.

The Gulf Stream continues to amaze. Although our boat speed was 6 knots our speed over ground was just over 3 knots… an incredible current, unfortunately in the wrong direction this time. Robin and I continued our 3 hour on, 3 hour off watch schedule. The Straits of Florida were busy with ship traffic as darkness came, so we were busy dodging fast moving shipping traffic. It is considered bad form to get run down by a 700 foot tanker so Robin and I had more conversations with the bridges of cargo ships than we did with each other. It’s very comforting  to know that personnel piloting these nautical behemoths are responsive and helpful to tiny vessels like ours.

Ten miles out I spotted Fowey Rock light,  just south of Miami and Key Biscayne. Rounding the light At 0700 after 44 hours and 220 nautical miles logged since we left Marsh Harbour, we noted that wind and weather were great with 8 – 12 knots of wind and 1 – 2 foot seas soooooo lets sail another 125 miles to Key West. Why knot? The conditions were great in the Hawk Channel as we sailed between the Florida Keys and the fringing reef. One her watch Robin spotted the lights of the “Southernmost City” before dawn and we sped up to avoid an incoming cruise ship and tied up at the Galleon Marina at 0745. We have tied up here in the past and as usual the staff was friendly, helpful and courteous. Their recommendations for restaurants and activities bests Trip Advisor. After 69 hours, nearly 3 full days and 345 nautical miles…time to celebrate like a Conch!

Key West is quirky, artistic and laid back where happy hour is every hour. If food, drink, music and debauchery excites you…you have found paradise. People watching is beyond compare as it is an international destination. Also notable are the great number of 19th Century wooden structures many which serve as bars or eateries. Shopping also seems to be a market driver due to the number of tourists. Since Robin is a lover of hats there was one painting that I couldn’t resist.

It’s tourist time again. Renting the golf cart with mag wheels was a great way to get reacquainted with the Republic. Visiting some of our favorite haunts was lots of fun and we were introduced to others, such as The Boathouse. Here we met an affable couple now part of the Key West fabric. Chris and Dani are business owners, singers, songwriters and all around great people. We had the pleasure of taking in their performance at Grunts, a wonderfully intimate bar and patio lounge. Chris has written a few songs aimed at live-aboard boaters, cruisers and, of course, the residents of Dildo Key. So as you know, it’s not always the miles traveled, it’s the wonderful people you meet.

It will be difficult to leave Key West without enjoying a wonderful evening with a first mate that does more than her share of making this dream possible. Wishing to extend our Florida experience we’ll be heading 125 miles north to Captiva Island on Pine Island Sound. Maybe we’ll see you there.

Fair winds and following seas,

Captain Bobby