Sleep while at a mooring comes quickly and soundly in our aft cabin on the custom memory foam mattress. It’s like a gentle rocking in a cozy cradle, but here in Settlement Harbour in Guana Cay , the wave slap against the transom due to swell from the Sea of Abaco jarred our comfy cabin and prompted the Admiral to sleep midships. That, with the faint smell of diesel emanating from one of the Yachts at the adjacent Orchid Bay Marina, in addition to the abbreviated fireworks last night that would have made Francis Scott Key fall off of a rampart, we departed for our next destination. Time to explore the Hub of Abaco.
The Hub of Abaco includes Man-O-Way Cay, Elbow Cay and others, as well as, the main settlement of Marsh Harbour on Great Abaco Island. It is a cruising ground frequented by visiting yachties and the home of many sailing charter companies. Man-O-War Cay is only 8 miles distant from Great Guana, no need for and early start. Besides, we needed to wait for a rising tide to enter the shallow and narrow entrance channel. Robin took the helm at 0945 as I dropped the mooring lines. 
MAN-O-WAR CAY
Robin set our course and piloted the boat to the channel and then allowed me the honor of possibly coming to grief navigating the entrance at Man-O-War. Planning for tide, depth and current made for a smooth passage and after just a few more minutes we picked up a mooring just off of the namesake marina.
Man-O-Way has a rich history of boat building and repair, a few studios and unique gift shops. Two small groceries and a waterside restaurant are also available. MOW Is quaint, small, quiet , friendly and peaceful.
I outfitted the dinghy with the outboard and we taxied over to the dinghy dock at the marina. 
There are only 300 residents on the Cay, but we only saw about 10 as we ambled through the small town. We chatted up a few locals as we enjoyed a frozen treat at the modest grocery store. All folks we encountered were friendly, pleasant and helpful.
We climbed back into the dinghy and explored the Eastern Harbor hurricane hole. Apparently, many boats are left here for the season. We toured both harbors by dinghy and were impressed by the tranquility and also by three visiting green turtles feeding just off our port beam. We enjoyed a dinner on board and a quiet evening with no wave slap.
MARSH HARBOUR
After breakfast on board while we waited for a rising tide, we stowed our windscoops and cockpit shades, slipped our mooring lines and headed for Marsh Harbour. On the short passage we glimpsed several sailboats leaving the Harbour preparing for the Regatta start at 1100. We motored through the anchorage and made our way to the Harbor View Marina with its central location in the marina district adjacent to many restaurants and shops. Before tying up at our assigned slip, we topped up our diesel at the fuel dock. Opening the fuel fill I watched in disbelief as the stainless fuel filler cap went straight overboard. After fueling, I went for a swim and retrieved the cap in 8 feet of water. Refreshing… and I saved 50 bucks!
Marsh Harbour is the largest town in Abaco and the third largest in the Bahamas with a population of 6,000. It is exceeded only by Nassau and Freeport. This is not a booming metropolis, there is only one traffic light, but it is known for good restaurants a variety of services and the largest supermarket in all of the Bahamas. We used it as our hub for traveling to neighboring islands and harbors.
It is pedestrian friendly in the Marina district, but you’ll need a cab for other destinations, like the grocery or ferry dock. No need to wave a cab down just call them on VHF channel 06 and they will be there pronto. Drivers were courteous and friendly with almost UBER vehicles
We treated ourselves to lunch at Wally’s, a wonderful restaurant just across the street from the Marina. This is probably the finest the finest Conch Burger served anywhere. Tasty, tender, lightly battered and served on a fresh Bahamian bun with fresh garnish… it was magnificent! 
Robin was now fueled for shopping and she poked into every shop within reasonable walking distance. Like the food the items they were very good, but not cheap.
LITTLE HARBOR
Little Harbor is about 35 to 40 serpentine nautical miles traveling by water since there are numerous shoals to avoid. In addition, parts of the entrance channel carry only 3.5 feet at mean low water, so we decided to avoid waiting for tides to enter and exit by renting a car and traveling on the highway. 
We walked to Rental Wheels, LTD and picked up a not too ancient Buick Lucerne. It had a myriad of dents and dings so that the metal skin had the texture of a raisin and bad shocks to boot, but you know me… I don’t complain.
We drove the 25 miles to Little Harbor over a wide well-paved highway , but the last two miles or so were on a washboard dirt road. Emerging from the forested roadway we saw the lovely, small, but fully protected anchorage and drove the final approach on the sandy path just a few yards from the water’s edge.
An art colony was established here in the 1950s and a gallery featuring life size marine bronzes and jewelry is open every day. After I engaged in some intense browsing, Robin nixed the purchase of a bronze hammerhead for $17,500 that caught my eye. Too bad, it would have really pissed off the Home Owners Association when I put it in my front yard.
We then made our way to Pete’s Pub, an open air bar on the beach. No need to bring your dress flip flops. Truthfully, we expected something a bit more civilized so we just enjoyed our drink and did some people watching. I didn’t want to chance sharing ribs and chicken with the local winged insects, but you know me….I don’t complain.
We returned to Marsh Harbour, did some errands and visited Maxwell’s supermarket….huge. It has just about anything you could desire in the food category. Chocolate Lactaid milk?…never saw it before and fresh guava if you like not to mention pig’s feet for the goyem.
HOPETOWN, ELBOW CAY
Albury’s Ferry runs a convenient, dependable service to many of the neighboring Cays. We thought it a great idea to hop the ferry for the 20 minute trip to Hopetown on Elbow Cay. Hopetown was founded in 1785 by Loyalists escaping the American Revolution. It is one of the most picturesque settlements in the Bahamas unmistakable with its candy striped lighthouse.
The busy harbor is surrounded by a charming town comprised of lovely restored old houses situated on narrow streets with no motorized traffic except for service vehicles. 
The ocean beach to the east has powdery pink sand and is protected by an offshore reef. We strolled in the early morning sun along the pathways and visited shops and the beach. The Wyannie Malone Historical Museum gave great insights as to the history of Hopetown.
After a conchburger at the Harbour’s Edge Restaurant, which was good, but no match for Wally’s, we continued our exploring.
No visit to 
Hopetown would be complete without a visit to the Lighthouse. We took a water taxi across the harbor and then traveled a narrow curving path leading to a large working boatyard which led to another path along the waterfront and yet another up to the Lighthouse. There were many nice folks along the way giving us directions cheerfully and without hesitation; none of them accurate, but you know me….
The Elbow Reef Lighthouse is 120 feet tall, but the trip up the narrow spiral staircase was easier than it sounds. There were landings on the way up that provided rest and a welcomed breeze through the arched windows. The lighthouse was erected 1864 built to keep vessels from grounding on Elbow Reef. It operates even today with a kerosene fueled mantle and huge rotating Fresnel lens seen for 20 miles. It is the last lighthouse of its kind in the world.
On the ferry ride back to Marsh Harbour I joined the other 20 dozing travelers with a head bob or two. After a shower and donning my dress flops we enjoyed dinner at Curly Tails, one of the local favorites for fine dining. We walked the 50 yards back to the Harbor View Marina and planned our Saturday to get prepared for our trip back to the U.S. The weather looks good for a Sunday departure.
Fair winds and following seas,
Captain Bobby
After an exciting ride, we reentered the Sea of Abaco and headed WSW to Treasure Cay which is on Great Abaco Island. We called yesterday and reserved a slip at the 
Yes, it was a special night at the “Tipsy Seagull” and it’s usually a sellout. The on-site bar/restaurant was packed with locals and tourists alike. A local band was playing dance music and young and old were bopping around, while enjoying fresh baked pizza to order and their favorite beverage. The service was friendly and amazingly fast considering we were on island time. After having our fill and then dancing to familiar tunes, we called it a night.
National Geographic has rated this 3 plus mile crescent shaped beach one of the ten best in the world. Like many of you, I have seen more than a few beaches, but the crystalline water, cool, powder- like sand and lack of crowds make this one spectacular. Truly magnificent. We didn’t want to leave.
Saying goodbye to Treasure Cay with a promise to return, we cast off the dock lines and headed for Great Guana only 10 miles across the Sea of Abaco. We arrived at 1130 and picked up a mooring at Guana Cay Harbor, a vibrant, happy place on any Sunday. Now, it’s time to get the dinghy off the deck and give her the power of the outboard engine we carry along to make the trip ashore.
The main street was a sea of people in mid-revelrie and golf carts galore snaking their way through the crowd. Apparently, the masses were headed either to or from Nipper’s or Grabber’s, another hot spot. Along the way, we were warned about the scant possibility of scoring a drink at the crowded bar.
Through the well-marked path we found Nipper’s on the Beach side of the island. We heard the voice of Robin Thick and the beat of “Blurred Lines” before we glimpsed the throng at the wildly popular spot. As promised, the lines at the bar were three deep, but I managed to find one tucked away where I only waited ten minutes for a couple of Maragitas.
After a restful night we set off again to make landfall ih the Northern Cays. One that we had read about in cruising guides for its pristine beauty, sand bars and tidal pools is Double Breasted Cays. The entry to the anchorage was serpentine but worth the idyllic setting. We spend the late afternoon with a swim to the sand bar and some peaceful rest in the protection of the low lying barrier islands. We had some visitors from “Let It Be” a 42 foot Catamaran. Frank and Mary Grace were cordial, we had much in common and plan to meet up with us in Annapolis at the Boat Show in October. 
Making our way toward Green Turtle Cay we had two overnight stops, one at Allans-Pensacola Cay and another at Powell Cay. As we traveled south the appearance of the water increased in clarity and beauty and we were again treated to near perfect weather with 5 to 12 knots of wind, sunny skies and 1 to 2 foot seas. The leg to Powell Cay which is the across the Sound from Coopers Town on Little Abaco Island was the best yet.
Green Turtle Cay has a population of about 450 and a variety of anchorages and marinas. We chose the 
Charting and route planning are also an important part of a successful trip. Using a combination of paper charts, electronic charts, cruising guides and the experience of crossing the Gulf Stream in the Straits of Florida we planned a course to take us to Abacos. This leg of the trip should cover 180 miles and take about 30 hours. We left Marathon on Wednesday morning at 0700 and then motorsailed against an east wind along the Hawk Channel. The reefed mainsail gave us stability and lift as we traveled between the Keys and the Florida Reefs. It was a lovely sunny day and we were making a bit less than 6 knots until we were able change course a bit to get more speed.
We were under the Sunshine Skyway Bridge at 1140 and out of Tampa Bay and in the Gulf of Mexico heading south by 1300. The winds varied from 17 to 20 knots with gusts up to 25. The 3 to 6 foot seas were confused with lots of whitecaps and occasionally we were slammed with larger waves. Beaufort terms this a Force 5 or “Fresh Breeze”. Since we’re traveling south toward Boca Grande it was a quartering sea but the bit of wallowing was better than slamming against the waves. The autopilot held a steady course, but I imagine a few of you mates may have lost breakfast over the side.
Lovely! Robin and I are used to running overnight by doing 3 hour watches. Robin uses an iPod loaded with audiobooks while checking course, speed, navigational hazards and the occasional boat. She has help from two chart plotters, radar, and an AIS receiver (Automatic Identification System) which all vessels over 300 tons must use. The safety factor of knowing the name, description, course, speed and prediction of collision is wonderful. As for me, I just sit there and pretend I know what the hell I am doing.
We arrived at 
We chilled out on Sunday and got some needed rest, listened to the Cruisers Net on VHF channel 68, which is like a boaters chatroom. We found out we’re in for a show tonight at 8:30pm (2030) as the Space Shuttle travels overhead.
By now you have packed your seabag with everything you need for a 38 day trip. Hand it over to me and come on board our Hunter 38 foot cruising sailboat SABA. We’ll stow it in the forward cabin and make sure you settle in. First mate Robin and I have everything ship shape and have filled the larders with enough provisions and adult beverages to choke a horse. Not to worry, we’ll keep you safe and comfortable, no need for Dramamine, Scopalamine or Stugeron to ward off Mal de Mer since you actually will just be experiencing this adventure from your couch.
From St. Petersburg, Florida on Tampa Bay we are headed for the Abacos in the Northern Bahamas and plan on traveling about 1,100 nautical miles over the next 38 days. The weather forecast is favorable for the first leg of our trip in the Gulf of Mexico with wind out of the west at about 10 to 15 knots and 2 to 3 foot seas. There is rain in the forecast, but nothing that should prevent us from reaching Marathon a distance of about 215 nautical miles in about 35 to 36 hours. Our plan is to leave the dock at the