Ahoy Mates!
We have been planning our return to the “Islands in the Stream” since we visited last summer. Getting our modest Hunter 38 sailboat ready for this return trip was becoming part of a familiar routine: checking and repairing systems, bottom painting, rig tuning, engine maintenance, sail repair, hull and deck waxing, food and drink provisioning followed by finding a home for all of the clothes and stuff we are bringing. This trip we’ll have a brand new life raft aboard that we hope we’ll never need and I am bringing a full set of dive gear along with the snorkeling equipment and sartorials.
Needless to say there was quite a bit of preparation involved in planning a 36 day trip that will take us over 1300 nautical miles (that’s 1500 statute miles to landlubbers). Our Float Plan that we filed will take us to 19 destinations which is probably a bit ambitious, but will the final plan will be determined by wind, weather and our mood. Yacht Broker and writer Dom Degnon quips, ” The lovely thing about cruising is that planning usually turns out to be of little use”.
With a keen eye to the weather, which has been miserable in SW Florida for the past two weeks, the forecast from St. Petersburg to Marathon called for light to moderate wind at 6 to 12 knots out of the Southeast and 2 foot seas with occasional showers and thunderstorms. I’ll take it!! The longer range forecast for a Gulfstream crossing wasn’t quite as favorable, but it’s off to Marathon and we’ll check for a weather window then.
We cast off the lines at 0800 on Friday morning in flat calm and long awaited sunshine and motored out of the Vinoy Basin and bid St. Petersburg a fond adieu. Since I downloaded updates to my electronic charts and chartplotter we had to do a slow dance in Tampa Bay with our autopilot control in order to recalibrate it and avoid coming to grips with disaster.
Just two hours later we were under the Sunshine Skway Bridge soon to be heading South after we rounded Anna Maria Island. The weather was as predicted, but with the wind out of the Southeast and our heading of 150 the wind was on our nose for most of the trip. We unfurled a reefed main to steady the boat, but were very comfortable in 1-2 foot seas.
As the day passed, we dried out our wet docklines and went about our daily routines of monitoring weather, checking all systems periodically and meal preparation.
I discovered a leaky stuffing box due to a loose packing nut. Yes, I know it sounds like a nasty sexual reference, but I’ll address that later. We motorsailed on through the day, observed the expected sundown and began to settle in for some night sailing.
The 220 mile trip to Marathon travelling at about 6 knots will put us into Marathon at 8:00 pm just before sundown on Saturday. Most people seem to think that we tie up at a marina at night or perhaps anchor out and sleep. Well if we did that we wouldn’t travel very far in a day. We sail through the night by alternating watches every 3 hours so that we can cover about 140 miles per day. Night sailing on Friday was particularly wonderful and with the lack of total cloud cover the stars were out in force. Fabulous! Equally wonderful was that by using radar we were able to dodge the occasional storm clouds so were able to keep dry the entire way.
You know you’re in Marathon when you spot the Seven Mile Bridge. As you may know this bridge has been used in many films including “True Lies”. They shot the scene where there was a terrorist confrontation and vehicle conflagration, but I digress. This older span was replaced by a new 65 foot fixed bridge, but looking up when you transit below it with a 62 foot mast is always a bit nervewracking. It always looks at though you’ll slam the stick into the bridge.
Robin brought us under the bridge without a problem and we turned for Boot Key Harbor in Marathon where I called ahead for a mooring. We choose this spot because of the 360 degree protection. There are over 200 moorings available and is geared for cruisers who may need supplies or marine services. In addition, there are full service marinas nearby. We picked up the mooring at 2000 (8:00 pm) and I got the grill ready for some Chicken Teriaki Kabobs. We relaxed with a libation and dinner and prepared for a lovely, peaceful and breezy sleep on a stable memory foam matress. AAAAHHHHH!!
The crucial parts of a successful trip are a worthy vessel, a competent crew and settled weather. We have been following the weather daily for weeks and the current prognostication for the Marathon to Bahamas crossing has not changed significantly. It’s miserable! 20 knots of wind from the ESE and 5-6 foot seas. No Thank You!
Sunday morining, we decided to move the boat from the mooring, and on our way to the nearby Marathon Marina, fuel up at Burdine’s. We filled our tank and topped up what we transferred from the jerry cans on the trip and then tied up at slip 92 at the Marina. We expect the weather to improve on Wednesday when the winds will drop from 17 knots to 8 knots and seas from 5 feet to 3.
The day was overcast with heavy rain in the afternoon and more coming on Monday. Tuesday should be sunny, but windy with high seas. What a great time to address that leaky stuffing box! I promised an explanation. The prop shaft travels from the engine to the prop and passes through the hull. The stuffing box is what seals the gap between the shaft and hull and keeps the water out. If the stuffing box is loose, water rushes in and it could sink the boat. I know, it almost happened to me!
On a trip from Puerto Rico to Lauderdale traveling 20 miles north of Cuba on a Caliber 47, I went below to get a sandwich and found I was ankle deep in water!! That’ll get your attention. There were only two of us on board for this delivery, I called for my buddy Mats and he quickly diagnosed a problem with a blown suffing box and tended to it. As a very frightened man with a bucket, I became a very effective bilge pump. After 1/2 hour of frantic bailing we got the situation under control and then replaced the faulty bilge pump. Needless to say, I always monitor the stuffing box. Here you see Captain Bobby, the mechanic, tightening the aforemented equipment.
We have some other items to tend to while we wait for weather. Some are boat projects, some are not. Robin is voraciously reading and I am trading some of my open Stock Option positions. An options addict cannot stop cold turkey. As long as there is an internet connection, I’m in business!
Hopefully, our next post will be from Cat Cay in the Bahamas as we make our way to Nassau and beyond to the Exumas in the Central Bahamas.
Wish us fair winds and following seas,
Captain Bobby and the Commish
South Seas is one of our favorites and is a great spot to vacation, relax and enjoy the wonderful amenities, the ambiance of the manicured grounds and the friendly staff dedicated to providing a near perfect experience.
Now that we are back safely to our slip at the 
Thank you for following our sojourn in the Abacos. Our 18 day visit to these islands rich in history included stops at uninhabited islands, small settlements and busy harbors. The experiences were varied but locals and visitors alike were always friendly and welcoming. We spent our last evening at Wally’s in Marsh Harbour celebrating our stay in these wonderful islands. We left the friendly environment of the Harbour View Marina with some trepidation as we cast off the lines starting our journey back to the United States.
Our route planning involved transiting a tricky channel from the Sea of Abaco into the Atlantic Ocean then traveling south along the inhospitable lee shore of Great Abaco. There are few anchorages along the way, so we enjoyed some magnificent sailing and just kept alternating our watches and continued on. We rounded Great Abaco at an iffy anchorage called Hole in the Wall then transited the the Northwest Providence Channel and the northern section of the Great Bahama Bank toward Bimini. Already with 32 hours in and 172 miles under our keel we bypassed the popular “island in the stream” because wind and waves were favorable. I guess we just wanted to continue to be cradled in the arms of Mother Ocean.
We have tied up here in the past and as usual the staff was friendly, helpful and courteous. Their recommendations for restaurants and activities bests Trip Advisor. After 69 hours, nearly 3 full days and 345 nautical miles…time to celebrate like a Conch!
Key West is quirky, artistic and laid back where happy hour is every hour. If food, drink, music and debauchery excites you…you have found paradise. People watching is beyond compare as it is an international destination. Also notable are the great number of 19th Century wooden structures many which serve as bars or eateries. Shopping also seems to be a market driver due to the number of tourists. Since Robin is a lover of hats there was one painting that I couldn’t resist.
Here we met an affable couple now part of the Key West fabric. Chris and Dani are business owners, singers, songwriters and all around great people. We had the pleasure of taking in their performance at Grunts, a wonderfully intimate bar and patio lounge. Chris has written a few songs aimed at live-aboard boaters, cruisers and, of course, the residents of Dildo Key. So as you know, it’s not always the miles traveled, it’s the wonderful people you meet.
I outfitted the dinghy with the outboard and we taxied over to the dinghy dock at the marina. 
We climbed back into the dinghy and explored the Eastern Harbor hurricane hole. Apparently, many boats are left here for the season. We toured both harbors by dinghy and were impressed by the tranquility and also by three visiting green turtles feeding just off our port beam. We enjoyed a dinner on board and a quiet evening with no wave slap.
It is pedestrian friendly in the Marina district, but you’ll need a cab for other destinations, like the grocery or ferry dock. No need to wave a cab down just call them on VHF channel 06 and they will be there pronto. Drivers were courteous and friendly with almost UBER vehicles
We treated ourselves to lunch at Wally’s, a wonderful restaurant just across the street from the Marina. This is probably the finest the finest Conch Burger served anywhere. Tasty, tender, lightly battered and served on a fresh Bahamian bun with fresh garnish… it was magnificent! 
Robin was now fueled for shopping and she poked into every shop within reasonable walking distance. Like the food the items they were very good, but not cheap.
We walked to Rental Wheels, LTD and picked up a not too ancient Buick Lucerne. It had a myriad of dents and dings so that the metal skin had the texture of a raisin and bad shocks to boot, but you know me… I don’t complain.
We drove the 25 miles to Little Harbor over a wide well-paved highway , but the last two miles or so were on a washboard dirt road. Emerging from the forested roadway we saw the lovely, small, but fully protected anchorage and drove the final approach on the sandy path just a few yards from the water’s edge.
An art colony was established here in the 1950s and a gallery featuring life size marine bronzes and jewelry is open every day. After I engaged in some intense browsing, Robin nixed the purchase of a bronze hammerhead for $17,500 that caught my eye. Too bad, it would have really pissed off the Home Owners Association when I put it in my front yard.
We then made our way to 
Albury’s Ferry runs a convenient, dependable service to many of the neighboring Cays. We thought it a great idea to hop the ferry for the 20 minute trip to Hopetown on Elbow Cay. Hopetown was founded in 1785 by Loyalists escaping the American Revolution. It is one of the most picturesque settlements in the Bahamas unmistakable with its candy striped lighthouse.
Hopetown would be complete without a visit to the Lighthouse. We took a water taxi across the harbor and then traveled a narrow curving path leading to a large working boatyard which led to another path along the waterfront and yet another up to the Lighthouse. There were many nice folks along the way giving us directions cheerfully and without hesitation; none of them accurate, but you know me….
After an exciting ride, we reentered the Sea of Abaco and headed WSW to Treasure Cay which is on Great Abaco Island. We called yesterday and reserved a slip at the Treasure Cay Marina and just as we entered the channel we were met with an afternoon downpour. We broke out the foul weather jackets, but by the time we reached our slip the sun made an appearance and we tied up and plugged in. Since we have been traveling almost daily, a vow was made to stay put and enjoy the Resort and it’s amenities for a few days.
Yes, it was a special night at the “Tipsy Seagull” and it’s usually a sellout. The on-site bar/restaurant was packed with locals and tourists alike. A local band was playing dance music and young and old were bopping around, while enjoying fresh baked pizza to order and their favorite beverage. The service was friendly and amazingly fast considering we were on island time. After having our fill and then dancing to familiar tunes, we called it a night.
National Geographic has rated this 3 plus mile crescent shaped beach one of the ten best in the world. Like many of you, I have seen more than a few beaches, but the crystalline water, cool, powder- like sand and lack of crowds make this one spectacular. Truly magnificent. We didn’t want to leave.
Saying goodbye to Treasure Cay with a promise to return, we cast off the dock lines and headed for Great Guana only 10 miles across the Sea of Abaco. We arrived at 1130 and picked up a mooring at Guana Cay Harbor, a vibrant, happy place on any Sunday. Now, it’s time to get the dinghy off the deck and give her the power of the outboard engine we carry along to make the trip ashore.
The main street was a sea of people in mid-revelrie and golf carts galore snaking their way through the crowd. Apparently, the masses were headed either to or from Nipper’s or Grabber’s, another hot spot. Along the way, we were warned about the scant possibility of scoring a drink at the crowded bar.
Through the well-marked path we found Nipper’s on the Beach side of the island. We heard the voice of Robin Thick and the beat of “Blurred Lines” before we glimpsed the throng at the wildly popular spot. As promised, the lines at the bar were three deep, but I managed to find one tucked away where I only waited ten minutes for a couple of Maragitas.
After a restful night we set off again to make landfall ih the Northern Cays. One that we had read about in cruising guides for its pristine beauty, sand bars and tidal pools is Double Breasted Cays. The entry to the anchorage was serpentine but worth the idyllic setting. We spend the late afternoon with a swim to the sand bar and some peaceful rest in the protection of the low lying barrier islands. We had some visitors from “Let It Be” a 42 foot Catamaran. Frank and Mary Grace were cordial, we had much in common and plan to meet up with us in Annapolis at the Boat Show in October. 
Making our way toward Green Turtle Cay we had two overnight stops, one at Allans-Pensacola Cay and another at Powell Cay. As we traveled south the appearance of the water increased in clarity and beauty and we were again treated to near perfect weather with 5 to 12 knots of wind, sunny skies and 1 to 2 foot seas. The leg to Powell Cay which is the across the Sound from Coopers Town on Little Abaco Island was the best yet.
Green Turtle Cay has a population of about 450 and a variety of anchorages and marinas. We chose the 
Charting and route planning are also an important part of a successful trip. Using a combination of paper charts, electronic charts, cruising guides and the experience of crossing the Gulf Stream in the Straits of Florida we planned a course to take us to Abacos. This leg of the trip should cover 180 miles and take about 30 hours. We left Marathon on Wednesday morning at 0700 and then motorsailed against an east wind along the Hawk Channel. The reefed mainsail gave us stability and lift as we traveled between the Keys and the Florida Reefs. It was a lovely sunny day and we were making a bit less than 6 knots until we were able change course a bit to get more speed.
We were under the Sunshine Skyway Bridge at 1140 and out of Tampa Bay and in the Gulf of Mexico heading south by 1300. The winds varied from 17 to 20 knots with gusts up to 25. The 3 to 6 foot seas were confused with lots of whitecaps and occasionally we were slammed with larger waves. Beaufort terms this a Force 5 or “Fresh Breeze”. Since we’re traveling south toward Boca Grande it was a quartering sea but the bit of wallowing was better than slamming against the waves. The autopilot held a steady course, but I imagine a few of you mates may have lost breakfast over the side.
Lovely! Robin and I are used to running overnight by doing 3 hour watches. Robin uses an iPod loaded with audiobooks while checking course, speed, navigational hazards and the occasional boat. She has help from two chart plotters, radar, and an AIS receiver (Automatic Identification System) which all vessels over 300 tons must use. The safety factor of knowing the name, description, course, speed and prediction of collision is wonderful. As for me, I just sit there and pretend I know what the hell I am doing.
We arrived at 
We chilled out on Sunday and got some needed rest, listened to the Cruisers Net on VHF channel 68, which is like a boaters chatroom. We found out we’re in for a show tonight at 8:30pm (2030) as the Space Shuttle travels overhead.
By now you have packed your seabag with everything you need for a 38 day trip. Hand it over to me and come on board our Hunter 38 foot cruising sailboat SABA. We’ll stow it in the forward cabin and make sure you settle in. First mate Robin and I have everything ship shape and have filled the larders with enough provisions and adult beverages to choke a horse. Not to worry, we’ll keep you safe and comfortable, no need for Dramamine, Scopalamine or Stugeron to ward off Mal de Mer since you actually will just be experiencing this adventure from your couch.
From St. Petersburg, Florida on Tampa Bay we are headed for the Abacos in the Northern Bahamas and plan on traveling about 1,100 nautical miles over the next 38 days. The weather forecast is favorable for the first leg of our trip in the Gulf of Mexico with wind out of the west at about 10 to 15 knots and 2 to 3 foot seas. There is rain in the forecast, but nothing that should prevent us from reaching Marathon a distance of about 215 nautical miles in about 35 to 36 hours. Our plan is to leave the dock at the