Abacos, Bahamas

Crossing Little Bahama Bank to Treasure Cay

Ahoy Mates!

We left the Old Bahama Bay Yacht Club at West End of Grand Bahama with mixed emotions. The refuge of the resort was very pleasant after the Gulf Stream crossing, but the marina itself is like a bee hive. There is non-stop activity with boats and yachts of all sizes and descriptions vying for dock space at the Customs House, fuel dock or slip assignment.

With a toot from my air horn, we parted a number of boats stooging around and headed for the entrance jetty. Just like that, we were off and running north to Memory Rock so that we could enjoy a downwind spinnaker run in an unusual westerly breeze.

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Rigging the asymmetrical spinaker
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Spinnaker set

Crossing the 75 miles or so of the Little Bahama Bank on a sailboat usually requires a couple of stops at conveniently located uninhabited cays in the middle of nowhere.

After the wind died we motor sailed to Mangrove Cay for the night and then met the same wind conditions the next day and motor sailed to Great Sale Cay.

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At anchor, Great Sale Cay

The anchorages at both locations were still and peaceful. Perhaps too still and peaceful. It’s tough to keep cool when the wind drops below 2 knots! We are equipped with two air conditioning units which function well with shore power, but won’t run with our batteries and solar array. We never needed a generator…until these past two days! I was running five fans, scantily clothed, but I was ungodly hot!!

We were anxious to get underway and get cool and the wind did pick up a bit; unfortunately, it was on our nose. It was more pleasant , but we still had to motor sail. We were dodging squalls all day, after all June is rainy season. Good news….SABA got a thorough wash down and all salt was removed.

After travelling an unimpressive distance of 110 nautical miles in three days, we sailed into Manjack Cay (Nunjack) just north of Green Turtle Cay where we had a slip reservation the next day. We nestled in the southernmost anchorage between Rat Cay and Crab Cay…two things you don’t want to be infested with!  The wind was now 10-12 knots from the southeast and much more comfortable.

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Anchor down between Rat Cay and Crab Cay

The next morning we navigated just a few miles south to the narrow entrance of White Sound on Green Turtle Cay. Passing through the narrow and shallow entrance with just 1 foot of water below our 5 foot keel we arrived at the Green Turtle Club and Marina. The Club was full and we had to wait for an hour or so before our slip was vacated. After tying up, turning on the A/C was an undescribable pleasure!! Maybe, we’ll retrofit that 4kw generator after all.

It was off to the restaurant for some cracked conch and then to the pool.8

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Green Turtle Club

We spent our time here relaxing and, of course, a golf cart rental to check out “the town” (Plymouth) was a must. Green Turtle Cay has a population of about 450 souls, so don’t look for a casino or a disco, but there are charming shops, a bakery, restaurants and a couple of small groceries.1 (1)After getting our share of rain on our golf cart outing we sampled another restaurant and were convinced that Green Turtle Club was the place to be. The staff was friendly and efficient and the food excellent. I just started a “Conch Burger Tour” and the contenders will have a tough time measuring up to the one at Turtle Cay.

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Conch Burger Tour, Green Turtle Cay Club

Our next destination required leaving the friendly confines of the Sea of Abaco via the Whale Cay Channel which can be treacherous…not today. We checked the weather conditions and they were spot on: 8-10 knots of wind and 2 foot seas. We encountered a bit of rain, but the short trip around Whale Cay in the Atlantic was uneventful.

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It’s not all sunshine and roses!

Soon we were back in the Sea of Abaco and in the Hub of the Abacos. Our destination: Treasure Cay. We hailed the Treaure Cay Marina on the VHF, got our slip assignment, tied up, plugged in and got settled.  Now it’s off to the beach….Robin’s favorite. With it’s white, powdery sand and magnificent water color and peaceful wave action, it’s hard to beat.

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Treasure Cay, Coco’s Beach
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Coco’s Beach
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What’s not to like!
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Treasure Cay, Brigantine Beach

We’re enjoying Treasure Cay and all it has to offer. There is a pool with it’s bar and restaurant “The Tipsy Seagull”, as well as, a coffee shop, a grocery and a laundry with drop off service….thank you very much! In addition, the Spinnaker Restaurant on the property boasts one of the only air-conditioned restaurants in all of North Abaco….of course, I made a reservation!!

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The Admiral, Captain Bobby and Key Lime Pie

Come along with us as we sail for Marsh Harbor, the largest town in Abaco. With its population of 6,000 it is the third largest town in the Bahamas, exceeded only by Nassau and Freeport. We’ll be staying at a marina in the center of it all and using it as a springboard for side trips.

Have a great week sailors and lubbers alike!

Wish us fair winds,

Captain Bobby

 

Cast off for the Bahamas

Ahh, the Abacos, Again

Ahoy Mates!

It is believed that Friday is the worst day to start a journey and just maybe there’s something to that old sailor’s superstition. Our preparation was total, including a rig tuning, a new furling mainsail, as our original one was a bit stretched out.

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Rigger at work tuning the shrouds
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New furling Mainsail

On Saba, our 38 foot Hunter sailboat, we more than doubled our solar capacity to ensure comfort and plenty of power at anchorages. In addition, we accomplished the more mundane tasks of boat ownership such as waxing, waterproofing canvas and making sure all gear was ready, including a life raft and an “abandon ship bag” that we hope to never need.

After spending considerable time and resources to prepare for our Bahamas voyage, we were ready, the boat was ready and provisioned… so off we went. We slipped our lines from our dock at the Vinoy Marina in downtown St. Petersburg, Florida at 0700 and slinked out of the harbor in a very light breeze. The light and unfavorable wind forced us to motor or motor sail through the entire 213 nautical mile trip to Marathon, Florida!

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Captain Bobby
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Robin, “The Admiral”
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Sunshine Skyway Bridge over Tampa Bay

We arrived in Marathon very late on Saturday evening fighting headwinds on the way down… took 39 hrs. We were froced to slow down due to the wind, waves and fuel concerns.

Generally, it was a good run, but the increase in wind and sea state off of Boca Grande, Captiva and Sanibel was not predicted.  When we finally arrived at the 7 Mile Bridge at O-dark thirty, it was cloudy with no moon and black as pitch. We  gingerly attempted to pass between the piers of the old bridge and then under the  65 foot vertical clearance bridge and neither were lit! Approaching very slowly and even using a bright spotlight,  we just couldn’t see the bridge piers on either the old or new bridge. Knowing that it is bad form to crash into a solid concrete structure, we considered the alternatives.

So after travelling 39 hours, we anchored out at a never used but peaceful spot about 1 mile from the bridge and had a good nights rest in a surprisingly good makeshift anchorage.

We made our way under the bridge and over to the Marathon Marina in the morning on Sunday.

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Under the 7 mile bridge

Fabulous Key Lime Pie at Lighthouse Grille

At the Marathon Marina we took on fuel which revealed that we only had 3 gallons left…that’s cutting it close! We are having a pleasant stay and had a mechanic come out to address the aft A/C which wasn’t cooling properly. Chris from Salt Marine arrived only one hour after we called on Monday and did a much more thorough job than I am accustomed to, the aft A/C is now working well after a 2 hour flush process and refrigerant adjustment. He gave it a good prognosis…may last a few more years.

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Needlepointing at the dock?

We accomplished all we intended from our short 2 day stay and took a taxi to the Lighthouse Grille near the Hyatt in Marathon. This is where we started our “Key Lime Pie Tour” through the Keys in April and I wanted to savor the pie again. The pastry crust is unusual and marvelous!

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Fabulous Key Lime Pie at Lighthouse Grille

We are planning on leaving tomorrow at 8 am and arriving at the West End of Grand Bahama on Wednesday morning. The weather looks very favorable for the Gulf Stream crossing, 5 – 10 kts wind from E to SE and less than 2 ft seas. Wow!!

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Marv’s weather showing 5 to 10 kts wind , 1 ft seas for the Gulf Stream crossing

We use several weather sources and countless charts and guides to aid our travels along with the usual electronic aids, such as GPS, Chartplotter and radar. Especially helpful is AIS or Automatic Identification System that aids in the identification on ships over 300 tons, a must have when crossing busy traffic lanes at night.

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Key Largo to West End, Grand Bahama

We left the Marina at 0800 and again had to motor sail against the East wind. When we left the protection of the Hawk Channel north of Key Largo we found that Marv lied. It was blowing 13 to 15 knots out of the Northeast! Thanks Marv. The seas were confused and buffeted us around for a few hours. As the evening progressed and the seas flattened to a more rythmic 2 to 3 feet, we picked up the Gulf Stream which added over 2 knots to our speed over ground.

Alternating watches through the night, as we always do, we made great progress. Robin had the first evening watch and performed admirably at keeping us on course although the Gulf Stream was pushing us 30 degrees off course. On my watches I encountered no less than 10 large tankers and/or cargo ships. I usually give the captain a call on the VHF radio to make sure he sees us and allow at least one mile for the closest point of approach.

As dawn arrived, I saw the western shore of Grand Bahama. Through the night the wind had moderated to 7 to 10 knots and the seas were a very kind 1 -2 feet. We prepared for landfall by taking down the jacklines that we use on deck to prevent an overboard mishap, hoisting the “Q” flag in preparation for customs and immigration and preparing lines and fenders for our tie up to the Customs Dock.

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Azimut, my upscale neighbor. This could be yours for $4 million!!

 

The West End is a very busy port with many visitors from Florida here for pleasure boating and fishing…me, I fish at Publix! Navigating though  Customs and Immigration took a relatively painless 20 minutes and a very painful parting of $300 in cash for a Cruising Permit, but you know me…I don’t complain!

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Old Bahama Bay Resort

We took our time to enjoy the Old Bahama Bay Resort and Yacht Harbor and relaxed on the grounds and by the pool… “Another Bahama Mama!”

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Well, it’s time to prepare for a more relaxing kind of trip. From here on out we plan on sailing for the most part. We expect westerly winds tomorrow which should give us the opportunity for a great spinnaker run.

We’ll be anchoring out  over the next three nights until we reach Green Turtle Cay, where we’ll catch up with you again.

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Until then, wish us fair winds and following seas.

Captain Bobby and the Admiral

 

 

 

 

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Gulfcoast Florida

SABA returns to the Gulfcoast

Saba carried us a total of 1,210 nautical miles (or 1390 “land” miles) over the past 36 days. The Admiral and I enjoyed 14 ports of call and plenty of adventure along the way.

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We sailed through the night on five passages sharing watch every 3 hours or so to enable visiting the more distant spots. As you may imagine, travelling on a modest sailboat sharing about 300 square feet over a five week time span is something few couples could accomplish. Let’s just say my first mate is tolerant…

2Leaving the Conch Republic of Key West with the promise to return soon we headed north to Captiva Island for a few days of vacation from our vacation at the South Seas Island Resort . The 330 acre resort offers a beach, pool, golf course, dining and a myriad of activities.  It’s a spot we often visit  when we want to indulge ourselves a bit.

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After reharging, we returned to St. Petersburg  via Venice spending a night at the Fisherman’s Village Marina and enjoying dinner at the Dockside Waterfront Grille.

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Safely tied to our slip at the Vinoy Marina in downtown St. Petersburg, we were already planning our next adventure on SABA. We were delighted to have you aboard and hope you’ll travel with us again soon.

For now, I’m preparing to check off another item on the Bucket List…I leave for the Kingdom of Tonga on Sunday. Tonga is an archipelago in the South Pacific about two-thirds of the way from Hawaii to New Zealand.

1 (4)Tonga is austral winter home of several hundred humpback whales who leave Antartica and arrive here to calf and mate. I guess we’re in for some whale voyerism as these giants perform courtship displays and mating rituals….I’ll try to keep out of the way of these 50 foot giants as I try to capture the action. Wish me well!

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The sea hates a coward.
–  Eugene O’Neill

Hope to have you aboard soon.

Captain Bobby

 

Passage to the U.S.

Nassau to Key West

Our trip from Nassau Harbor to Key West covered 297 nautical miles and took us 57 hours. Leaving the protection of the harbor always comes with anticipation of the promise of a great passage, but is tinged with a bit of hesitation and concern. Hence, we always prepare carefully for these longer passages…full provisions, full water tank, full fuel tank and “jack lines”. Jack lines are made of strong nylon webbing that is attached from the bow cleat to the stern to allow a safe anchoring point for the tether that I wear on my life vest. If you need to go on deck and you are tossed overboard, the tether attached to the jack line will keep you attached to the boat. Of course, this will keep your head just below the waterline so you will most assuredly drown, but there will be no frantic search for the body!

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Wind and sea were cooperative during our 60 mile leg over the mile plus deep water of the Tongue of the Ocean, but kicked up a bit as we crossed the Bahama Bank. After 24 hours we sailed by Bimini and started to cross the Gulf Stream in the Straights of Florida. It was time to avoid ship traffic and squalls and there was plenty of both.

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Entering U.S. waters is always a comfort. After trading out my Bahamas sim card for the Verizon one I was washed over with a feeling of peace and cell phone reliability that is beyond compare. When you reach the Fowey Rocks light about 10 miles south of Miami at the entrance to the Hawk Channel, the Florida Keys are at your doorstep.10

A stop at Looe Key just south of Big Pine Island was a must. It’s a very popular dive and snorkeling site and I wanted to try out some new dive gear. Can’t fit a 72 or 80 cu ft tank on our boat easily, so I have a couple of 13 cu ft pony bottles for underwater tasks or short dives.

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With a new dedicated harness and one of my original regulators I jumped overboard and the first fish I saw was not a fish at all, but one of my close friends…a Caribbean Reef Shark. Always a fun dive site, lots of diversity.

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We spent a couple of hours there on a mooring relaxing and then it was off to the Conch Republic. We arrived at Galleon Marina in the seaport area near Old Town Key West and tied up at a floating dock just before some heavy rain and wind bands washed down the boat and saved me the trouble.

Now it was time to enjoy our usual haunts, first to Pepe’s for breakfast and then later to the Boathouse to enjoy their fabulous happy hour menu….great food, super prices.6

We were surprised when we went by Grunt’s Bar on Caroline to see if our friends Chris and Dani were playing. Chis and Dani of the Shantyhounds were not only playing they were doing a live recording and were also transmitting over one of the local radio stations. Great group, great fun and met many Shantyhounds groupies from last year.

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One of Key West’s “unforgettables” was at the event. “Koz” is the  owner of the Green World Gallery and an artist who creates whimsical canvases of tropical scenes and sea life. He is larger than life with an even bigger heart who donates much time and effort to the community. We stopped by his gallery at the  Stock Island Marina to say hello while he regaled us with his stories of the Caribbean. We’ll be back again!12

Robin and I spent a couple of more days exploring, shopping and doing some of the usual touristic activities.

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During this stay we were able to visit the Hemingway House. As you know, “Papa” has quite a history and his Key West home is something special. The one acre property is lush and complete with gardens, swimming pool and, of course, a cat cemetery for the renowned six toed cats.

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Papa had a separate studio complete with the original Royal typewriter where he made the magic happen and accomplished 70 percent of his works.

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The 55 cats have the run of the property and two full time caretakers. This one enjoys her perch on Papa’s bed and shows off her toes.

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Cocktails and dinner tonight on SABA with Chris and Dani of the Shantyhounds rounds out a great stay in Key West. So after a wonderful day, it’s off to Captiva tomorrow morning.

“Cruising has two pleasures. One is to go out in wider waters from a sheltered place. The other is to go into a sheltered place from wider waters.   – Howard Bloomfield

Wish us fair winds,

Captain Bobby and the Admiral

 

Nassau

Exumas to Nassau

We were eagerly awaiting the fireworks display at Staniel Cay for the Fourth. All weather forecasts indicated clear skies with a nearly full moon and excellent viewing. An hour before the event the skies opened up and the rain continued for two hours forcing cancellation of the celebratory pyrotechnics….more Fake Weather! We can’t escape it even in the Bahamas!!

We prepared to get underway for our return to Nassau and a chance to try out our new Asymmetrical Spinnaker. Robin and I designed the pattern and colors and it was a dream come true for downwind sailing! We were doing 5 to 6 knots in only 8 knots of wind for a blissfully serene sail surfing with a following sea. The only thing we heard was the gentle lapping of the crystalline aquamarine sea against our hull.

The spinnaker allows for a cool comfortable ride versus the wallowing motion and heat of a downwind run with traditional sails or the smell of burnt diesel in light winds if motor-sailing. Hallelujah!!

FullSizeRender copyWe arrived in Normans Cay, famous for drug running in the 80s, but there was no sign of that activity when we anchored off of Battery Point for a quiet night on the hook. As usual, we took a dip in the shallow, pristine water before a sundowner cocktail and dinner.

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The next day we traveled about 36 miles to Rose Island just a few miles east of Nassau. Day number two of peaceful downwind sailing under spinnaker was as good as it gets on a cruising sailboat.

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Along the way we had to cross the notorious Yellow Bank known for the numerous coral heads that threaten to take a bite out of your keel. The clarity of the water allows you to easily dodge these devils and although it appears that the “rocks” were near the surface, we never saw any depth less than 10 feet. Since we draw 6 feet there was no problem.

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We tucked into Rose Island Anchorage for the night, but the surge and wind were relentless and made us eager to head out early to travel to Nassau Harbor for topping up of fuel and to tie up at the Hurricane Hole Yacht Club.

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Having been away from Nassau for 12 days, it was time to tend to such mundane tasks as laundry, fresh food shopping, and boat cleaning inside and out. To prepare for crossing the Tongue of the Ocean, the Bahama Bank and the Gulf Stream, I rolled up the tender and put it in it’s home in the forward cabin and stowed the grill. Between the chores we enjoyed the bliss of air conditioning while we were plugged in and planned for our adventure at the Atlantis Resort.

FullSizeRender 6Saturday, we took the brief stroll to Atlantis to enjoy all of the amenities. As you may know, it is a fabulous property with every conceivable water sport and water park feature imaginable.

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We have been looking forward to a relaxing day enjoying the resort and that we did, along with 15,000 of our closest friends. The park is so well-planned and managed that you can actually enjoy yourself without feeling overwhelmed with humanity.

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The buildings themselves are works of art and the Aquaria are stunning. I dare you to wander the property without a perennial smile across your face.

FullSizeRender copy 2FullSizeRender 2 copyFullSizeRender 4 copyFullSizeRender 5Robin found this to be her ideal way to do some shark diving as opposed to my usual method of back-rolling off of a panga into a sea of dorsal fins around a bait ball!

1There are hundreds of species represented in the aquaria throughout the resort giving everyone an excellent chance to view the underwater world just as an experienced diver would.

As I write this, we are relaxing in the rambling Atlantis lobby and shops savoring coffee and delicious pastry and planning for our journey tomorrow as we head back to the U.S. The trip will be about 180 nautical miles and will take about 36 hours. We’ll do our usual 3 hour watches, but always show some flexibility in the schedule depending on the status of our crew of 2.

The weather should be favorable with 11 to 16 knots of wind from the ESE and 2 to 3 foot seas:Nassau to Chubb 7:10

The Gulf Stream crossing also looks favorable with 10 to 15 knots of wind and 2 to 3 foot seas. No hazards are expected, but with all of this Fake Weather….who knows?!

NOAA Gulf Stream 7:10We’ll be untying the lines Monday morning and heading for the Northwest Channel, entering the Bahama Bank with its mesmerizing 8 to 15 foot shallows.

9 Near dawn on Tuesday, we’ll be approaching Bimini and then start the Gulf Stream crossing with great light allowing us to dodge the heavy traffic of cargo ships in the Straights of Florida. We will enter Hawk Channel at Fowey Rocks, just south of Miami before sundown.

“There are three sorts of people; those who are alive, those who are dead, and those who are at sea.”
Anacharsis, 6th Century BC

See you on the other side.

Captain Bobby and The Admiral

Exumas

Fourth of July in the Exumas

Happy Independence Day Shipmates!

We’ve spent the last nine days cruising through the Exumas visiting several of the wonderful anchorages in an area of the Central Bahamas that have been described as the most exquisite cruising ground in the western hemisphere. No wonder, the waters surrounding the over 300 plus islands are crystalline with vivid colors of teal and aquamarine that are beyond description.

Allens Cay, Exumas 40 Miles SE of Nassau

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Our first stop was at Allen’s Cay with it’s lovely protected anchorage and home to one of the largest populations of iguanas in the Bahamas. It’s also home to seabirds and varied marine life. We spent some time visiting the friendly reptiles and lazing on the beach.

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14After a short walking tour of neighboring Leaf Cay we returned to SABA and prepared to move on to Shroud Cay which is known for its mangrove creeks.

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Shroud Cay, 45 miles SE of Nassau

We awoke to discover our first catastrophe, one of our refrigerator units stopped working… what, no cold Corona….no way! I got to work removing the unit from the cabinetry and disassembled the unit. One of the electrical connections shorted out, so after some minor surgery and a new connector we were back in business!

We motored to a protected site with only two other boats enjoying the view, went for a swim and then prepared for our dinghy adventure through the 2 plus mile mangrove creek  that would put us at the entrance of the Exuma Sound.

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DCIM100GOPROG0070076.JPGDriftwood Beach is truly one of the most exquisite and serene beaches I have experienced. A hike to the top of the hill gives spectacular views and that location was used in the 80’s by federal agents to observe drug operations on neighboring Norman Island.

Warderick Wells, Exumas Land and Sea Park, 70 miles SE of Nassau

The Exumas Land and Sea Park was established in 1958 as a land and marine protected area. The 176 mile area includes 15 large islands and several small ones and is 22 miles long and over 4 miles wide. We called the Park Headquarters on Channel 9 and got our mooring assignment. After we picked up the mooring pennant and tied on, we were invited to a neighboring motor yacht for cocktails. There we met Ed and Christina, owners of the yacht, as well as, Monica and Constantine who were volunteering as Park Wardens. They were very colorful people. We appreciated the helpful suggestions with park attractions we should enjoy.

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In addition to the snorkeling in nearby areas, we enjoyed walking the beach and chatting with Monica and Constantine. They are now Canadian citizens by way of Romania and have great tales to tell. We were able to share a few of our supplies with the Land and Sea Park as they are in need of the most basic items like paper, envelopes, trash bags, cleaning supplies etc.

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Big Major’s Spot, near Staniel Cay, 80 miles SE of Nassau

After enjoying the Park for two days and with near perfect weather all week we headed farther south to one of everyone’s favorite spots…Big Major’s Spot!  Why? The Swimming Pigs, of course!!

 

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2How can you not have a smile on your face when watching these porcine puppies? They have organized a feeding station since we were last year to avoid a feeding frenzy. Robin got stomped by an eager piglet in the past and still has the scar to prove it! As you can see she has forgiven the little devil.

Little Farmers Cay, 96 miles SE of Nassau

Having not had the pleasure of air conditioning for a week it was time for a marina to plug in, cool down and top off the water tank. We tied up at the Farmers Cay Yacht Club owned by Roosevelt Nixon. He is a direct descendant of Chrissana, a freed slave from Great Exuma. She bought the island from the English Crown and willed it to her descendants many of whom still live there. The marina and restaurant were modest, but Roosevelt and his wife Shirley were cordial, pleasant and excellent hosts. This was another evening where Robin and I enjoyed a lovely and delicious dinner in a very casual surrounding.

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The next day, after a few electrical power interruptions, not uncommon in the Bahamas we ambled into the town of Little Harbour and checked out the green turtles swimming in the shallows. After some investigation, we found out  that the Ocean Cabin served superb seafood for lunch so we knocked on the door before the official opening time. The proprietor, Terry, told us to go away, his wife yelled at him and told him to let us come in. Ernestine and Terry proved to be affable and the lunch was as promised. These two are like most on the island, friendly, welcoming and charming.

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Well we’re off to Staniel Cay to watch the fireworks display, which a couple of years ago were outstanding. I’m firing up the grill now, living like a pauper amidst these Mega yachts at Big Major’s.

1 (2)Have a great Celebration!!

Please feel free to comment on this post or share with your friends.

Fair winds and following seas,

Captain Bobby and The Admiral

 

Passage to the Bahamas

Off to Cat Cay and Nassau

Ahoy Shipmates!

On Wednesday, our plans to leave Marathon and head for Cat Cay in the Bahamas after crossing the Gulf Stream in the Straits of Florida looked promising. The Buoy reports and other sites suggested that on Wednesday into Thursday moderating winds and seas should make for a memorable passage.

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1 (1)We had a lively sail throught the Hawk Channel paralleling the Florida Keys, wind was a brisk 15 to 20 knots with 3 to 4 foot seas in this protected area. The promise of moderating wind and waves never occurred. Weather reports I guess can be like the main street media….FAKE NEWS!

We exited the Hawk Channel at Angelfish Cut, southeast of Miami at 2200 (10:00pm) and spent the next two hours successfully dodging huge squalls while rockin’ and rollin’ in a building sea that was supposed to moderate. While alternating watches Robin danced with the 8 or so cargo and cruise ships in the Gulf Stream. With the wind on the nose we were forced to motor sail and tack with frustrating regularity. In doing so we weren’t able to take advantage of the 2 to 3 knot current to help us along.

Cat Cay

24 hours and 123 nautical miles into a supposed 20 hour trip we arrived at the Cat Cay Yacht Club on Thursday and were delighted to have calm once again. We tied up in a slip close to the amenities and it was off to Customs and Immigation on site to get legal and get our Cruising Permit for the Bahamas.

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The check in procedures were convenient and the Customs and Immigration Officials were kind, efficient and courteous which is one of the reasons we check in at this location. Now it’s back to the boat to hoist the Bahamas Courtesy Flag and grant permission to the Admiral to step ashore.

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Dinner at the Nauticat is something quite special due to the fact we were the only couple there to enjoy such personal service and delicious fare.

With the weather forecast showing improvement, we cast off after a 24 hour hiatus and were back at sea on Friday morning. Crossing the Great Bahama Bank is one of the great pleasures of sailing. We will travel over 60 miles in 7 to 13 feet of crystalline clear water with shades of blue, turquoise and teal that defy description.

9The wind was still strong at 15 knots plus with 3 foot seas making the usual sailing nirvanah a bit of challenge. The wind demanded that we motor sail again with reefed main so we were using a bit more fuel than planned…time to dip into the jerry cans and add some fuel to the tank for the longer than planned trip as we were already 3 hours behind our original estimate.

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The Northwest Channel Passage from the Bahama Bank to the Tongue of the Ocean to Nassau is usually a slog. With a strong Southeast wind and a very strong current as you leave the shallow bank and enter the 7800 foot deep water you can expect some turmoil….the sea was high and confused and we were pounding against it a bit more than one would call comfortable. This becomes evident when you see water coming over the bow. This is not a trip recommend for most people without a Dramamine drip!

 

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This leg of the trip was 126 nautical miles over 26 hours. Needless to say we were delighted to be back at Nassau Yacht Harbor right in the middle of the Marina District and close to shopping and services. We tied up, rinsed off an ample coating of salt from the deck from all of the spray and tidied up the cabin before a shower, two hour nap and a great dinner at the Poop Deck…always fun with good Bahamian food right at the Marina.

15Morning had us walking the three blocks to Starbucks for a coffee and some internet tasks and then on to the Fresh Market next door. Nothing better than a well stocked grocery with a great bakery to replenish our stores.

Then, a short walk to the Potters Cay Market, a great local spot for some fresh Conch Salad. The location is a bit rough, but the conch ceviche is superb. Here you see Robin and I consulting with Conchmaster Craig of Skinnys Place.

 

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Back to the Marina for some boat chores and blogging while Robin gets household chores totally under control. Not only is Robin a good navigator, pilot, planner, cook and First Mate, but she is lovely to be with. To quote Eric Hiscock, famous author and sailor, “the only way to get a good crew is to marry one.”

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As always, wish us fair winds. So far have 469 nautical miles (540 statute miles) under our keel and it’s off to the Exumas tomorrow after a two day stay in Nassau. It should be a pleasant 45 mile sail with 10 to 15 knots of wind and 2 foot seas….if that news isn’t fake too!

Captain Bobby and the Commish

Cast off for the Bahamas

Back to the Bahamas Mon

Ahoy Mates!

We have been planning our return to the “Islands in the Stream” since we visited last summer. Getting our modest Hunter 38 sailboat ready for this return trip was becoming part of a familiar routine: checking and repairing systems, bottom painting, rig tuning, engine maintenance, sail repair, hull and deck waxing, food and drink provisioning followed by finding a home for all of the clothes and stuff we are bringing. This trip we’ll have a brand new life raft aboard that we hope we’ll never need and I am bringing a full set of dive gear along with the snorkeling equipment and sartorials.

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Needless to say there was quite a bit of preparation involved in planning a 36 day trip that will take us over 1300 nautical miles (that’s 1500 statute miles to landlubbers). Our Float Plan that we filed will take us to 19 destinations which is probably a bit ambitious, but will the final plan will be determined by wind, weather and our mood. Yacht Broker and writer Dom Degnon quips,   ” The lovely thing about cruising is that planning usually turns out to be of little use”.

With a keen eye to the weather, which has been miserable in SW Florida for the past two weeks, the forecast from St. Petersburg to Marathon called for light to moderate wind at 6 to 12 knots out of the Southeast and 2 foot seas with occasional showers and thunderstorms. I’ll take it!! The longer range forecast for a Gulfstream crossing wasn’t quite as favorable, but it’s off to Marathon and we’ll check for a weather window then.

We cast off the lines at 0800 on Friday morning in flat calm and long awaited sunshine and motored out of the Vinoy Basin and bid St. Petersburg a fond adieu. Since I downloaded updates to my electronic charts and chartplotter we had to do a slow dance in Tampa Bay with our autopilot control in order to recalibrate it and avoid coming to grips with disaster.

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Just two hours later we were under the Sunshine Skway Bridge soon to be heading South after we rounded Anna Maria Island. The weather was as predicted, but with the wind out of the Southeast and our heading of 150 the wind was on our nose for most of the trip. We unfurled a reefed main to steady the boat, but were very comfortable in 1-2 foot seas.

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As the day passed, we dried out our wet docklines and went about our daily routines of monitoring weather, checking all systems periodically and meal preparation.

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I discovered a leaky stuffing box due to a loose packing nut. Yes, I know it sounds like a nasty sexual reference, but I’ll address that later. We motorsailed on through the day, observed the expected sundown and began to settle in for some night sailing.

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The 220 mile trip to Marathon travelling at about 6 knots will put us into Marathon at 8:00 pm just before sundown on Saturday. Most people seem to think that we tie up at a marina at night or perhaps anchor out and sleep. Well if we did that we wouldn’t travel very far in a day. We sail through the night by alternating watches every 3 hours so that we can cover about 140 miles per day. Night sailing on Friday was particularly wonderful and with the lack of total cloud cover the stars were out in force. Fabulous! Equally wonderful was that by using radar we were able to dodge the occasional storm clouds so were able to keep dry the entire way.

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You know you’re in Marathon when you spot the Seven Mile Bridge. As you may know this bridge has been used in many films including “True Lies”. They shot the scene where there was a terrorist confrontation and vehicle conflagration, but I digress.  This older span was replaced by a new 65 foot fixed bridge, but looking up when you transit below it with a 62 foot mast is always a bit nervewracking. It always looks at though you’ll slam the stick into the bridge.

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Robin brought us under the bridge without a problem and we turned for Boot Key Harbor in Marathon where I called ahead for a mooring. We choose this spot because of the 360 degree protection. There are over 200 moorings available and is geared for cruisers who may need supplies or marine services. In addition, there are full service marinas nearby. We picked up the mooring at 2000 (8:00 pm) and I got the grill ready for some Chicken Teriaki Kabobs. We relaxed with a libation and dinner and prepared for a lovely, peaceful and breezy sleep on a stable memory foam matress. AAAAHHHHH!!

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The crucial parts of a successful trip are a worthy vessel, a competent  crew and settled weather. We have been following the weather daily for weeks and the current prognostication for the Marathon to Bahamas crossing has not changed significantly. It’s miserable! 20 knots of wind from the ESE and 5-6 foot seas. No Thank You!

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Sunday morining, we decided to move the boat from the mooring, and on our way to the nearby Marathon Marina, fuel up at Burdine’s. We filled our tank and topped up what we transferred from the jerry cans on the trip and then tied up at slip 92 at the Marina. We expect the weather to improve on Wednesday when the winds will drop from 17 knots to 8 knots and seas from 5 feet to 3.

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The day was overcast with heavy rain in the afternoon and more coming on Monday. Tuesday should be sunny, but windy with high seas. What a great time to address that leaky stuffing box! I promised an explanation. The prop shaft travels from the engine to the prop and passes through the hull. The stuffing box is what seals the gap between the shaft and hull and keeps the water out. If the stuffing box is loose, water rushes in and it could sink the boat. I know, it almost happened to me!

On a trip from Puerto Rico to Lauderdale traveling 20 miles north of Cuba on a Caliber 47, I went below to get a sandwich and found I was ankle deep in water!! That’ll get your attention. There were only two of us on board for this delivery, I called for my buddy Mats and he quickly diagnosed a problem with a blown suffing box and tended to it. As a very frightened man with a bucket, I became a very effective bilge pump. After 1/2 hour of frantic bailing we got the situation under control and then replaced the faulty bilge pump. Needless to say, I always monitor the stuffing box. Here you see Captain Bobby, the mechanic, tightening the aforemented equipment.

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We have some other items to tend to while we wait for weather. Some are boat projects, some are not. Robin is voraciously reading and I am trading some of my open Stock Option positions. An options addict cannot stop cold turkey. As long as there is an internet connection, I’m in business!

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Hopefully, our next post will be from Cat Cay in the Bahamas as we make our way to Nassau and beyond to the Exumas in the Central Bahamas.

Wish us fair winds and following seas,

Captain Bobby and the Commish

Gulfcoast Florida

SABA returns to the Suncoast

G’DAY Shipmates,

Key West with it’s relaxed attitude is always difficult to leave, but we cast off at 0900 and headed for Captiva Island on Pine Island Sound. The 128 mile trip took exactly 24 hours and was filled with some excitement due to thundershowers in the wee hours, but we arrived at our destination, the South Seas Island Resort  unscathed.  IMG_0451IMG_0465IMG_1788South Seas is one of our favorites and is a great spot to vacation, relax and enjoy the wonderful amenities, the ambiance of the manicured grounds and the friendly staff dedicated to providing a near perfect experience.

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We spent a few days enjoying the resort including the beach, pool and village. During that time we hosted an important part of Robin’s Florida family. Rebeca and Adam showed their 6 month old son Evan a great time at the pool. He is one happy kid!

Our stay was the just the elixir needed to decompress after our extended travel. Wonderful!

Time to head back to our home port of St. Petersburg, but let’s extend our trip for one night in Venice, Florida. We often use the Crow’s Nest Marina and Restaurant as an interim stop on our way up to Tampa Bay. The wind and weather were again smiling upon us as sailed the forty miles up to the Venice inlet. We tied up and enjoyed a luxurious shower before a cocktail and a fresh seafood dinner. Always a delight!

Well, it was a great motor-sail back to Tampa Bay. The wind was a bit erratic altering direction and velocity as the day wore on. We traveled the 50 miles in just under 8 hours and arrived before the afternoon thunderstorms.

Vinoy BAsinNow that we are back safely to our slip at the Vinoy Marina in St. Petersburg you can regain your land legs as you step to the dock. We enjoyed having you along for these past five weeks and hope you have enjoyed your trip with Robin and me. Together we have logged 1,136 Nautical miles (1308 statute miles) and visited 16 destinations in the US and the Abacos in the Bahamas.

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We sailed overnight for 7 nights including the 345 mile 3-day voyage to Key West from Marsh Harbour, one of the many highlights of our trip. On that leg, we enjoyed favorable wind and weather which made for spectacular sailing. In addition, SABA was anchored for 5 nights, moored for 8 and spent 17 nights in the comfort of various marinas. Fabulous locations, good weather, and wonderful people made for a memorable trip which prompted us to plan another extended one for next summer. In between, we’ll keep it going on the Gulf Coast and in the Keys.

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It was great to have you aboard. hope you enjoyed the adventure. Hope to see you all soon.

Fair winds and following seas,

Captain Bobby

Passage to the U.S.

SABA cruises to the Conch Republic

Ahoy Mates!

IMG_1693Thank you for following our sojourn in the Abacos. Our 18 day visit to these islands rich in history included stops at uninhabited islands, small settlements and busy harbors. The experiences were varied but locals and visitors alike were always friendly and welcoming. We spent our last evening at Wally’s in Marsh Harbour celebrating our stay in these wonderful islands. We left the friendly environment of the Harbour View Marina with some trepidation as we cast off the lines starting our journey back to the United States.

IMG_1688Our route planning involved transiting a tricky channel from the Sea of Abaco into the Atlantic Ocean then  traveling south along the inhospitable lee shore of Great Abaco. There are few anchorages along the way, so we enjoyed some magnificent sailing and just kept alternating our watches and continued on. We rounded Great Abaco at an iffy anchorage called Hole in the Wall then transited the the Northwest Providence Channel and the northern section of the Great Bahama Bank toward Bimini. Already with 32 hours in and 172 miles under our keel we bypassed the popular “island in the stream” because wind and waves were favorable. I guess we just wanted to continue to be cradled in the arms of Mother Ocean.

The Gulf Stream continues to amaze. Although our boat speed was 6 knots our speed over ground was just over 3 knots… an incredible current, unfortunately in the wrong direction this time. Robin and I continued our 3 hour on, 3 hour off watch schedule. The Straits of Florida were busy with ship traffic as darkness came, so we were busy dodging fast moving shipping traffic. It is considered bad form to get run down by a 700 foot tanker so Robin and I had more conversations with the bridges of cargo ships than we did with each other. It’s very comforting  to know that personnel piloting these nautical behemoths are responsive and helpful to tiny vessels like ours.

Ten miles out I spotted Fowey Rock light,  just south of Miami and Key Biscayne. Rounding the light At 0700 after 44 hours and 220 nautical miles logged since we left Marsh Harbour, we noted that wind and weather were great with 8 – 12 knots of wind and 1 – 2 foot seas soooooo lets sail another 125 miles to Key West. Why knot? The conditions were great in the Hawk Channel as we sailed between the Florida Keys and the fringing reef. One her watch Robin spotted the lights of the “Southernmost City” before dawn and we sped up to avoid an incoming cruise ship and tied up at the Galleon Marina at 0745. IMG_1710We have tied up here in the past and as usual the staff was friendly, helpful and courteous. Their recommendations for restaurants and activities bests Trip Advisor. After 69 hours, nearly 3 full days and 345 nautical miles…time to celebrate like a Conch!

IMG_1711IMG_1735Key West is quirky, artistic and laid back where happy hour is every hour. If food, drink, music and debauchery excites you…you have found paradise. People watching is beyond compare as it is an international destination. Also notable are the great number of 19th Century wooden structures many which serve as bars or eateries. Shopping also seems to be a market driver due to the number of tourists. Since Robin is a lover of hats there was one painting that I couldn’t resist.

 

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It’s tourist time again. Renting the golf cart with mag wheels was a great way to get reacquainted with the Republic. Visiting some of our favorite haunts was lots of fun and we were introduced to others, such as The Boathouse. Chris & DaniHere we met an affable couple now part of the Key West fabric. Chris and Dani are business owners, singers, songwriters and all around great people. We had the pleasure of taking in their performance at Grunts, a wonderfully intimate bar and patio lounge. Chris has written a few songs aimed at live-aboard boaters, cruisers and, of course, the residents of Dildo Key. So as you know, it’s not always the miles traveled, it’s the wonderful people you meet.

It will be difficult to leave Key West without enjoying a wonderful evening with a first mate that does more than her share of making this dream possible. Wishing to extend our Florida experience we’ll be heading 125 miles north to Captiva Island on Pine Island Sound. Maybe we’ll see you there.

Fair winds and following seas,

Captain BobbyIMG_1731