Florida Keys, Great Bahama Bank, Gulfcoast Florida, Passage to the U.S.

Back to the US, Immigration and Dr. Mudd

After three weeks in Bahamian waters including visiting seven spots in the Abacos it was time to return to the U.S. so that the Commissioner could resume her duties . During this time Robin had devoured eleven books and completed an amazing needlepoint project. All I did was keep us afloat and moving from one location to the other with Robin’s help.

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Florida to West End of Grand Bahama Island, then on to the Abacos and return via the Northwest Providence Channel and the Great Bahama Bank to Cat Cay and then the Gulf Stream crossing to Fowey Rocks

We were awakened by an increase in wind over Cat Cay giving promise of a crossing by sail, but the passing squall left us with 1 – 2 knots of wind from the east.  After we navigated the narrow cut between Gun Cay and Cat Cay passing the Gun Cay lighthouse, we were soon feeling the effects of the Gulf Stream current.

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Gun Cay Lighthouse

In order to keep a course over ground of 280 degrees we were steering 250 to 255 to counter the effect of the 2.5 knot current. You would never guess that the current was strong looking at the water surface, it looked like the surface of a calm lake! I took the opportunity to call ahead to the Marathon Marina while we still had cell service to reserve a slip for tomorrow morning as we had a 24 hour trip ahead of us.

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Gulf Stream sea condition FAC (flat ass calm!)

Even though the wind was still light we had the mainsail up, not so much for stability or additional speed, but just to look good! We didn’t have much company crossing the Stream, we encountered few cargo ships along the way, but since the Aby Scarlett was going to pass only .3 miles away, I called the bridge on the VHF. According to maritime law in this instance we had the right of way, but knowledge of basic physics warns of the impending doom when you collide with a 873 foot ship doing 13.5 knots.

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Aby Scarlet, as she appears on A.I.S. blinking “red” indicating a collision course

“Good morning Captain, this is the sailboat Saba 3 miles off of your starboard bow, I see that our CPA (Closest Point of Approach) is .3 nautical miles so we are altering course 20 degrees to port and will pass your stern.” He responded politely, thanked us and wished us a safe voyage.

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Aby Scarlett an 873 ft. Bulk Cargo Container Ship passes by after our course change.

We made the 47 mile Gulf Stream crossing in 8.5 hours averaging 5.5 knots. It’s always a pleasure to return to “soundings” where your depth finder actually registers a number rather than “deep” and the cerrulian blue waters of the Hawk Channel welcome you home.

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Fowey Rocks, south of Miami are a welcome sight!

Rounding Fowey Rocks put the wind on our beam and we had a glorious and peaceful sail down the Hawk Channel as we had the waterway to ourselves. After 5 hours of sailing, the wind died again so it was back to motorsailing.

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SABA enjoying a beam reach!

We motorsailed through the night and as we usually do altered watches every 2 to 4 hours to enable the other crew member to sleep. We arrived at the Marathon Marina in the morning and tied up at the fuel dock to fuel up  with help from the friendly staff. Our slip was ready for us and was as before in a convenient spot.

After tying up, we called the Customs and Border Patrol on an 800 number and checked in using the Small Vessel Reporting System. We are each registered personally and our boat is registered as well to allow for easy check in. One minute later we heard, “Welcome home” from the friendly agent.

We used our time in Marathon to do some laundry and some complete mundane boat tasks. Since we had a great internet connection I was able to place quite a few Stock Option trades. As many of you know, this is a passion of mine and an indication that I was back in business!

Our special surprise in Marathon was our dinner at Frank’s Grill. The place is tucked away in a strip shopping center and from outward appearances not especially inviting.

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Frank’s Grill Marathon, Florida

We were greeted warmly and the food was fantastic…possibly the best Frutti de Mare Fra Diavlo I have ever had and Robin’s veal marsala was superb. The homemade desserts including the cheesecake and key lime pie were fabulous. Frank made a point of coming out of the kitchen to say “hello”…great guy, super chef!

When you are in the keys, stop by for dinner. During season, reservations are a must.     http://www.franksgrillmarathon.com

After our two day hiatus in Marathon, it was off for Key West, only 42 miles distant. With 6 – 7 knots of wind from the SE we motorsailed to one of our favorite locations, Key West Bight. We tied up stern-to at the A & B Marina, right in the middle of Key West marina activity

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SABA dwarfed by sportfishers and motoryachts at the A & B Marina
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A & B Marina dock

After tying up and checking in it was time for exploring all the Marina had to offer. The staff was friendly and helpful and the shower facilities were some of the best we’ve found in our travels. We also were impressed with the convivial atmosphere of the marina with it’s coffee shop, bar and restaurant and great happy hour at the White Tarpon. I got my fill of $1 oysters before we headed out for the evening.

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Key West Bight restaurants and marinas

Grunt’s on Caroline Street is one of the oldest bars in Key West. Thursday nights feature the “Shanty Hounds” a local group of muscians.  We met singer/songwriters Dani Hoy and Chris Rehm a couple of years ago and we take in their shows whenever we can. As usual, they kept an eclectic group entertained through the evening. Thanks to Dani, Chris and Bob for making us feel like a part of their family!

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The SHANTY HOUNDS at Grunt’s Bar on Caroline

There are few places better for breakfast in Key West than Ricky’s BLUE HEAVEN. The place always seem packed, but the short wait seems even shorter with one of their signature Bloody Marys. The fresh baked breads, inventive breakfast entrees are delicious, not to mention what is probably the best key lime pie on the planet!

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Blue Heaven
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In Blue Heaven!

After that wonderful breakfast we walked back to the marina, but along the way made a few stops. In addition a clothing store, the grocery and a dive shop to try on a new 3mm wetsuit we were sidetracked by the lure of key lime pie…..again!

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Birthplace of Key Lime Pie….LET ME IN!!

In a Facebook post, I mentioned Robin and I enjoyed a Seaplane trip over to the Dry Tortugas from Key West to tour Fort Jefferson which happens to be the largest masonry structure in the Western Hemisphere with an interesting history and is surrounded by a vibrant coral reef🐠

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Aboard a de Haviland Otter Sea single engine seaplane to the Dry Tortugas
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View of Fort Jefferson from seat 6
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de Havilland Otter landing near Garden Key
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Captain at Fort Jefferson, the largest masonry structure in the Western Hemisphere

Ponce de Leon discovered the island in 1513 and named it Las Tortugas. Subsequently, it was named Dry Tortugas to warn mariners that no fresh water could be found. Having visited the Fort decades ago I did note some aging in some of the structure. Construction started in 1846 and continued for 30 years. It was never completed. Originally constructed to protect Gulf shipping it was soon deemed obsolete after it could not be protected by newly constructed rifled cannon.

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Fort Jefferson Parade Grounds
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Interior Arches
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Moat with surrounding Coral Reef

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Fort Jefferson did serve as a prison during the Civil War. It was most famous for hosting Dr. Samuel Mudd who assisted John Wilkes Booth, Abraham Lincoln’s assassin.

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Dr. Samuel Mudd’s home for four years.
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I’ll be back!!

After what was a great day at the Dry Tortugas we returned to Key West Bight to relax and enjoy yet another happy hour. This time we were joined at the Boathouse by Dani and Chris of the Shanty Hounds. We happened to sit at the same spot where we met a couple of years ago. After sharing great food and lots of laughs we retired to our boat, just steps away from boardwalk restaurants.

Time for Sunday Brunch! Our Key West resident friend of many years Joy, whom we have know since we were teenagers, recommended Lattitudes Restaurant on neighboring Sunset Key. Formerly known as Tank Island, Sunset Key is a 27 acre luxurious island community and resort accessible ony by boat.

 

Island Time Launch to Sunset Key
Island Time Launch to Sunset Key
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On our way to Latitudes Restaurant, Sunset Key
Sunset Key Cottages
Sunset Key Cottages
Lattitude at Sunset Key
Lattitude at Sunset Key

As you may imagine lunch at Latitude on Sunset Key was elegant, fabulous and made the heat, humidity and windless days of travelling a distant memory. We will be sure to return on our next vist to Key West. Thanks Joy!!

We’ll be heading north tomorrow to Captiva on our way back to St. Pete, but before we do, a visit to the Conch Republic just a few steps away from our marina was in order. We couldn’t leave without saying goodbye to Dani and Chris and to let them know that we’d be back soon.

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Dani and Chris, “The Shanty Hounds” at the Conch Republic

Leaving Key West is always difficult since we enjoy our stays here so much. It was even more difficult since there was little to no wind. We didn’t even bother raising the mainsail since the sea was so flat. We did get some help from a favorable current up the channel and for the first hour we were doing 7 to 8 knots!

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Sunset Florida Bay
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Good Morning Captiva! Rain, rain… go away!

Listening to the engine drone on for another 24 hours we reached Captiva and headed for the fuel dock at the South Seas Yacht Harbour. We have been here several times and it’s a comfortable place for us.

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South Seas Yacht Harbor, Captiva
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Ready for duty, South Seas Yacht Harbo
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Scoops and Slices at Southseas, a great spot for a sugar high!!

We relaxed for a couple of days at the pool and at the beach before making the move to our home marina. We cast off our lines at noon since we didn’t want to arrive at St. Petersburg too early and even then had some time to kill. The 96 mile journey would take about 17 hours and we wanted to arrive after 8 am.

Ten miles distant from Captiva on the intracoastal is Cabbage Key, home of the restaurant where Jimmy Buffett allegedly composed “Cheeseburger in Paradise”. Cabbage Key is really a bit of Old Florida and since it is only accessable by boat it’s not likely to change soon.

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Cabbage Cay, home of “Cheeseburger in Paradise”

We tied up at the Cabbage Key Inn dock and made our way to the Inn. Not only did we  get the famed cheeseburger but we managed to kill a couple of hours.

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Cabbage Key Island Inn Bar and Restaurant

The remainder of the trip dealt us heavy rain, confused 3 to 5 foot seas and general mayhem under a double reefed main and more engine time. Luckily for Robin her watches were a bit more comfortable and she enjoyed clear weather. I was heartened when I saw the lights of the Sunshine Skyway bridge, but 30 minutes later we were in a huge downpour. There is no doubt that the past 12 hours dealt us more weather than we had for the entire trip!

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Sunshine Skyway Bridge over Tampa Bay at 0500

As the early morning hours progressed, the sky cleared and we tied up at our familiar slip in the Vinoy Marina. We took our time getting all in order, rinsing the boat, cleaning and organizing below deck and offloading a few carts of gear.

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Safe and sound at the Vinoy Marina, St. Petersburg, FloridaI

It was a marvelous trip!

We covered 1115 Nautical Miles (1282 statue miles) over 36 days. We sailed overnight on six occasions, anchored out five nights and spent 25 days in marinas. The marina stays were more frequent due to the lack of wind to keep us comfortable at anchor.

We have sailed these Bahama trips for the last four years so I guess we earned our Bahamas degree. Our plans may change for the future. We are considering all of our options.. longer, larger and luxurious!

Thanks for following along with us. We loved having you!

Fair winds and following seas,

Captain Bobby and the Commish

Abacos, Bahamas, Great Bahama Bank

The Abacos to Cat Cay

Ahoy Mates!

After our stay in Treasure Cay it was off to Marsh Harbour, considered the main stop in the Hub of the Abacos. There are a myriad of shops, restaurants and services there, as well as, and international airport. We were able to sail most of the 17 miles to the Harbor View Marina, right in the center of restaurant district. Perfect for fresh fish dishes and a fabulous Conch Burger.

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Marsh Harbour Anchorage

We spent four days at the Marina using it as our home base for some touring. We sampled many of the restaurants including Jamie’s, a local spot with great food and friendly service, Wally’s with a more formal atmosphere and superb dishes and Mangoes for fantastic fresh fish, prepared with local flair. They were all excellent!

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Wally’s Restaurant is Wonderful!!

One of the truly wonderful things about cruising, is the interesting people that you meet. We were privledged to spend time and share dinner with Dr. Randy and Linda. He is a recently retired ER physician who along with his wife, Linda  a former nurse are starting a new life aboard their Absolute 60, a magnificent power yacht with a grand interior. We wish them all the best and hope for an invitation to join them on that floating palace! Hint, hint…

While in the Abacos I took the opportunity to schedule a dive trip with Dive Abaco for a two tank dive at the Fowl Cay Preserve about 5 miles east. I packed up my gear and walked only a block to the dive shop.

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Schlepping like a Sherpa!

After a half hour ride in a seaworthy dive boat, we arrived at the site on the ocean side of Fowl Cay. After squeezing into my wetsuit, gear and camera please note the back roll with ballerina-like entry!

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Orthotic Fins, a perfect cure for Plantar Fascitis!
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Ready to go!

Since it is a preserve fish life were very friendly as evidenced by “Ash” who has a way with the lady Nassau Groupers!

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Dive guide, Ash, locking lips with a Nassau Grouper

The dives were well planned and included many “swim-throughs” in the narrow tunnels and caverns of the coral reef.  There were schools of blue tangs and yellow tail snappers along with the usual arrow crabs and colorful cleaning shrimp. Of course, the highlight was the large group of friendly groupers!

The next day we executed our plan of returning to the USA via the Great Bahama Bank. The trip from Marsh Harbour heading south around Great Abaco and to Fowey Rock south of Miami via the Bahama Bank is 225 nautical miles (258 statue miles). The weather forecast was good with light wind and 1 foot seas. Great for a power boat, not so good for a “blow boat”. We decided to cross the Great Bahama Bank and stop and anchor in Cat Cay on the west end of the Bank. This 179 nautical mile trip would still involve an overnight so we readied the sea berth, which is nothing more than a lee cloth fitted to our port setee to allow sleeping without falling on the cabin sole (floor).

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Sea berth

We motor sailed  around Hole in the Wall on the south end of Abaco and then continued west, north of the Berry Islands.

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Hole in the Wall, Great Abaco

This part of the Atlantic Ocean between and the Bahama Bank is Cruise ship alley. Since Saturday is a busy day for ship sailings, we encountered no fewer than 8 cruise ships from Princess, Celebrity, MSC, Norwegian and Carnival. We have and use AIS or Automatic Identification System that allows you to identify ships and gives a myriad of information, like name and description of vessel, course, speed and closest point of approach, etc.

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A.I.S.  shows two cruise ships and one cargo ship at the same time…busy!

If the closest point of approach is less than one mile we always call the bridge on the VHF radio make sure that the bridge sees us and offer to make a course change. More often than not the cruise ship or cargo ship will offer to change course to avoid us!

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Cruise ship travelling at night with cargo ship in background

Morning bought with it another nearly windless day and more heat than was comfortable, but the Great Bahama Bank is one of our favorite stretches of water. The water color and quality is absolutely gorgeous! This part of the trip would require travelling about 70 miles in water only 10 to 40 feet deep. As you know, as sailors, we carry loads of technical gear, tactical equipment and specialized clothing for use in specific conditions. Crossing the Great Bahama Bank on this day required very special light cotton boxer shorts, which proved perfect for a mid-morning nap!

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Tactical gear from Macy’s

After a day of attempting to use the spinnaker to take advantage of what little wind we had we anchored just off of Cat Cay before sundown.

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Cat Cay, Bahamas

We settled in for the night in anticipation of our Gulf Stream crossing. Since we had cell phone reception our weather reports were very favorable, again predicting light winds and flat seas. Oh, how we were hoping for 10 to 15 knots out of the East for a spinnaker run!

Stay tuned for the the return to our home port of St. Petersburg via Marathon, Key West, The Dry Tortugas, Captiva and Cabbage Key.

Thanks for your wishes of fair winds!

Captain Bobby and the Admiral

 

Abacos, Bahamas

Crossing Little Bahama Bank to Treasure Cay

Ahoy Mates!

We left the Old Bahama Bay Yacht Club at West End of Grand Bahama with mixed emotions. The refuge of the resort was very pleasant after the Gulf Stream crossing, but the marina itself is like a bee hive. There is non-stop activity with boats and yachts of all sizes and descriptions vying for dock space at the Customs House, fuel dock or slip assignment.

With a toot from my air horn, we parted a number of boats stooging around and headed for the entrance jetty. Just like that, we were off and running north to Memory Rock so that we could enjoy a downwind spinnaker run in an unusual westerly breeze.

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Rigging the asymmetrical spinaker
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Spinnaker set

Crossing the 75 miles or so of the Little Bahama Bank on a sailboat usually requires a couple of stops at conveniently located uninhabited cays in the middle of nowhere.

After the wind died we motor sailed to Mangrove Cay for the night and then met the same wind conditions the next day and motor sailed to Great Sale Cay.

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At anchor, Great Sale Cay

The anchorages at both locations were still and peaceful. Perhaps too still and peaceful. It’s tough to keep cool when the wind drops below 2 knots! We are equipped with two air conditioning units which function well with shore power, but won’t run with our batteries and solar array. We never needed a generator…until these past two days! I was running five fans, scantily clothed, but I was ungodly hot!!

We were anxious to get underway and get cool and the wind did pick up a bit; unfortunately, it was on our nose. It was more pleasant , but we still had to motor sail. We were dodging squalls all day, after all June is rainy season. Good news….SABA got a thorough wash down and all salt was removed.

After travelling an unimpressive distance of 110 nautical miles in three days, we sailed into Manjack Cay (Nunjack) just north of Green Turtle Cay where we had a slip reservation the next day. We nestled in the southernmost anchorage between Rat Cay and Crab Cay…two things you don’t want to be infested with!  The wind was now 10-12 knots from the southeast and much more comfortable.

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Anchor down between Rat Cay and Crab Cay

The next morning we navigated just a few miles south to the narrow entrance of White Sound on Green Turtle Cay. Passing through the narrow and shallow entrance with just 1 foot of water below our 5 foot keel we arrived at the Green Turtle Club and Marina. The Club was full and we had to wait for an hour or so before our slip was vacated. After tying up, turning on the A/C was an undescribable pleasure!! Maybe, we’ll retrofit that 4kw generator after all.

It was off to the restaurant for some cracked conch and then to the pool.8

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Green Turtle Club

We spent our time here relaxing and, of course, a golf cart rental to check out “the town” (Plymouth) was a must. Green Turtle Cay has a population of about 450 souls, so don’t look for a casino or a disco, but there are charming shops, a bakery, restaurants and a couple of small groceries.1 (1)After getting our share of rain on our golf cart outing we sampled another restaurant and were convinced that Green Turtle Club was the place to be. The staff was friendly and efficient and the food excellent. I just started a “Conch Burger Tour” and the contenders will have a tough time measuring up to the one at Turtle Cay.

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Conch Burger Tour, Green Turtle Cay Club

Our next destination required leaving the friendly confines of the Sea of Abaco via the Whale Cay Channel which can be treacherous…not today. We checked the weather conditions and they were spot on: 8-10 knots of wind and 2 foot seas. We encountered a bit of rain, but the short trip around Whale Cay in the Atlantic was uneventful.

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It’s not all sunshine and roses!

Soon we were back in the Sea of Abaco and in the Hub of the Abacos. Our destination: Treasure Cay. We hailed the Treaure Cay Marina on the VHF, got our slip assignment, tied up, plugged in and got settled.  Now it’s off to the beach….Robin’s favorite. With it’s white, powdery sand and magnificent water color and peaceful wave action, it’s hard to beat.

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Treasure Cay, Coco’s Beach
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Coco’s Beach
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What’s not to like!
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Treasure Cay, Brigantine Beach

We’re enjoying Treasure Cay and all it has to offer. There is a pool with it’s bar and restaurant “The Tipsy Seagull”, as well as, a coffee shop, a grocery and a laundry with drop off service….thank you very much! In addition, the Spinnaker Restaurant on the property boasts one of the only air-conditioned restaurants in all of North Abaco….of course, I made a reservation!!

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The Admiral, Captain Bobby and Key Lime Pie

Come along with us as we sail for Marsh Harbor, the largest town in Abaco. With its population of 6,000 it is the third largest town in the Bahamas, exceeded only by Nassau and Freeport. We’ll be staying at a marina in the center of it all and using it as a springboard for side trips.

Have a great week sailors and lubbers alike!

Wish us fair winds,

Captain Bobby

 

Cast off for the Bahamas

Ahh, the Abacos, Again

Ahoy Mates!

It is believed that Friday is the worst day to start a journey and just maybe there’s something to that old sailor’s superstition. Our preparation was total, including a rig tuning, a new furling mainsail, as our original one was a bit stretched out.

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Rigger at work tuning the shrouds
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New furling Mainsail

On Saba, our 38 foot Hunter sailboat, we more than doubled our solar capacity to ensure comfort and plenty of power at anchorages. In addition, we accomplished the more mundane tasks of boat ownership such as waxing, waterproofing canvas and making sure all gear was ready, including a life raft and an “abandon ship bag” that we hope to never need.

After spending considerable time and resources to prepare for our Bahamas voyage, we were ready, the boat was ready and provisioned… so off we went. We slipped our lines from our dock at the Vinoy Marina in downtown St. Petersburg, Florida at 0700 and slinked out of the harbor in a very light breeze. The light and unfavorable wind forced us to motor or motor sail through the entire 213 nautical mile trip to Marathon, Florida!

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Captain Bobby
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Robin, “The Admiral”
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Sunshine Skyway Bridge over Tampa Bay

We arrived in Marathon very late on Saturday evening fighting headwinds on the way down… took 39 hrs. We were froced to slow down due to the wind, waves and fuel concerns.

Generally, it was a good run, but the increase in wind and sea state off of Boca Grande, Captiva and Sanibel was not predicted.  When we finally arrived at the 7 Mile Bridge at O-dark thirty, it was cloudy with no moon and black as pitch. We  gingerly attempted to pass between the piers of the old bridge and then under the  65 foot vertical clearance bridge and neither were lit! Approaching very slowly and even using a bright spotlight,  we just couldn’t see the bridge piers on either the old or new bridge. Knowing that it is bad form to crash into a solid concrete structure, we considered the alternatives.

So after travelling 39 hours, we anchored out at a never used but peaceful spot about 1 mile from the bridge and had a good nights rest in a surprisingly good makeshift anchorage.

We made our way under the bridge and over to the Marathon Marina in the morning on Sunday.

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Under the 7 mile bridge

Fabulous Key Lime Pie at Lighthouse Grille

At the Marathon Marina we took on fuel which revealed that we only had 3 gallons left…that’s cutting it close! We are having a pleasant stay and had a mechanic come out to address the aft A/C which wasn’t cooling properly. Chris from Salt Marine arrived only one hour after we called on Monday and did a much more thorough job than I am accustomed to, the aft A/C is now working well after a 2 hour flush process and refrigerant adjustment. He gave it a good prognosis…may last a few more years.

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Needlepointing at the dock?

We accomplished all we intended from our short 2 day stay and took a taxi to the Lighthouse Grille near the Hyatt in Marathon. This is where we started our “Key Lime Pie Tour” through the Keys in April and I wanted to savor the pie again. The pastry crust is unusual and marvelous!

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Fabulous Key Lime Pie at Lighthouse Grille

We are planning on leaving tomorrow at 8 am and arriving at the West End of Grand Bahama on Wednesday morning. The weather looks very favorable for the Gulf Stream crossing, 5 – 10 kts wind from E to SE and less than 2 ft seas. Wow!!

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Marv’s weather showing 5 to 10 kts wind , 1 ft seas for the Gulf Stream crossing

We use several weather sources and countless charts and guides to aid our travels along with the usual electronic aids, such as GPS, Chartplotter and radar. Especially helpful is AIS or Automatic Identification System that aids in the identification on ships over 300 tons, a must have when crossing busy traffic lanes at night.

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Key Largo to West End, Grand Bahama

We left the Marina at 0800 and again had to motor sail against the East wind. When we left the protection of the Hawk Channel north of Key Largo we found that Marv lied. It was blowing 13 to 15 knots out of the Northeast! Thanks Marv. The seas were confused and buffeted us around for a few hours. As the evening progressed and the seas flattened to a more rythmic 2 to 3 feet, we picked up the Gulf Stream which added over 2 knots to our speed over ground.

Alternating watches through the night, as we always do, we made great progress. Robin had the first evening watch and performed admirably at keeping us on course although the Gulf Stream was pushing us 30 degrees off course. On my watches I encountered no less than 10 large tankers and/or cargo ships. I usually give the captain a call on the VHF radio to make sure he sees us and allow at least one mile for the closest point of approach.

As dawn arrived, I saw the western shore of Grand Bahama. Through the night the wind had moderated to 7 to 10 knots and the seas were a very kind 1 -2 feet. We prepared for landfall by taking down the jacklines that we use on deck to prevent an overboard mishap, hoisting the “Q” flag in preparation for customs and immigration and preparing lines and fenders for our tie up to the Customs Dock.

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Azimut, my upscale neighbor. This could be yours for $4 million!!

 

The West End is a very busy port with many visitors from Florida here for pleasure boating and fishing…me, I fish at Publix! Navigating though  Customs and Immigration took a relatively painless 20 minutes and a very painful parting of $300 in cash for a Cruising Permit, but you know me…I don’t complain!

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Old Bahama Bay Resort

We took our time to enjoy the Old Bahama Bay Resort and Yacht Harbor and relaxed on the grounds and by the pool… “Another Bahama Mama!”

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Well, it’s time to prepare for a more relaxing kind of trip. From here on out we plan on sailing for the most part. We expect westerly winds tomorrow which should give us the opportunity for a great spinnaker run.

We’ll be anchoring out  over the next three nights until we reach Green Turtle Cay, where we’ll catch up with you again.

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Until then, wish us fair winds and following seas.

Captain Bobby and the Admiral

 

 

 

 

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Gulfcoast Florida

SABA returns to the Gulfcoast

Saba carried us a total of 1,210 nautical miles (or 1390 “land” miles) over the past 36 days. The Admiral and I enjoyed 14 ports of call and plenty of adventure along the way.

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We sailed through the night on five passages sharing watch every 3 hours or so to enable visiting the more distant spots. As you may imagine, travelling on a modest sailboat sharing about 300 square feet over a five week time span is something few couples could accomplish. Let’s just say my first mate is tolerant…

2Leaving the Conch Republic of Key West with the promise to return soon we headed north to Captiva Island for a few days of vacation from our vacation at the South Seas Island Resort . The 330 acre resort offers a beach, pool, golf course, dining and a myriad of activities.  It’s a spot we often visit  when we want to indulge ourselves a bit.

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After reharging, we returned to St. Petersburg  via Venice spending a night at the Fisherman’s Village Marina and enjoying dinner at the Dockside Waterfront Grille.

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Safely tied to our slip at the Vinoy Marina in downtown St. Petersburg, we were already planning our next adventure on SABA. We were delighted to have you aboard and hope you’ll travel with us again soon.

For now, I’m preparing to check off another item on the Bucket List…I leave for the Kingdom of Tonga on Sunday. Tonga is an archipelago in the South Pacific about two-thirds of the way from Hawaii to New Zealand.

1 (4)Tonga is austral winter home of several hundred humpback whales who leave Antartica and arrive here to calf and mate. I guess we’re in for some whale voyerism as these giants perform courtship displays and mating rituals….I’ll try to keep out of the way of these 50 foot giants as I try to capture the action. Wish me well!

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The sea hates a coward.
–  Eugene O’Neill

Hope to have you aboard soon.

Captain Bobby

 

Passage to the U.S.

Nassau to Key West

Our trip from Nassau Harbor to Key West covered 297 nautical miles and took us 57 hours. Leaving the protection of the harbor always comes with anticipation of the promise of a great passage, but is tinged with a bit of hesitation and concern. Hence, we always prepare carefully for these longer passages…full provisions, full water tank, full fuel tank and “jack lines”. Jack lines are made of strong nylon webbing that is attached from the bow cleat to the stern to allow a safe anchoring point for the tether that I wear on my life vest. If you need to go on deck and you are tossed overboard, the tether attached to the jack line will keep you attached to the boat. Of course, this will keep your head just below the waterline so you will most assuredly drown, but there will be no frantic search for the body!

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Wind and sea were cooperative during our 60 mile leg over the mile plus deep water of the Tongue of the Ocean, but kicked up a bit as we crossed the Bahama Bank. After 24 hours we sailed by Bimini and started to cross the Gulf Stream in the Straights of Florida. It was time to avoid ship traffic and squalls and there was plenty of both.

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Entering U.S. waters is always a comfort. After trading out my Bahamas sim card for the Verizon one I was washed over with a feeling of peace and cell phone reliability that is beyond compare. When you reach the Fowey Rocks light about 10 miles south of Miami at the entrance to the Hawk Channel, the Florida Keys are at your doorstep.10

A stop at Looe Key just south of Big Pine Island was a must. It’s a very popular dive and snorkeling site and I wanted to try out some new dive gear. Can’t fit a 72 or 80 cu ft tank on our boat easily, so I have a couple of 13 cu ft pony bottles for underwater tasks or short dives.

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With a new dedicated harness and one of my original regulators I jumped overboard and the first fish I saw was not a fish at all, but one of my close friends…a Caribbean Reef Shark. Always a fun dive site, lots of diversity.

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We spent a couple of hours there on a mooring relaxing and then it was off to the Conch Republic. We arrived at Galleon Marina in the seaport area near Old Town Key West and tied up at a floating dock just before some heavy rain and wind bands washed down the boat and saved me the trouble.

Now it was time to enjoy our usual haunts, first to Pepe’s for breakfast and then later to the Boathouse to enjoy their fabulous happy hour menu….great food, super prices.6

We were surprised when we went by Grunt’s Bar on Caroline to see if our friends Chris and Dani were playing. Chis and Dani of the Shantyhounds were not only playing they were doing a live recording and were also transmitting over one of the local radio stations. Great group, great fun and met many Shantyhounds groupies from last year.

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One of Key West’s “unforgettables” was at the event. “Koz” is the  owner of the Green World Gallery and an artist who creates whimsical canvases of tropical scenes and sea life. He is larger than life with an even bigger heart who donates much time and effort to the community. We stopped by his gallery at the  Stock Island Marina to say hello while he regaled us with his stories of the Caribbean. We’ll be back again!12

Robin and I spent a couple of more days exploring, shopping and doing some of the usual touristic activities.

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During this stay we were able to visit the Hemingway House. As you know, “Papa” has quite a history and his Key West home is something special. The one acre property is lush and complete with gardens, swimming pool and, of course, a cat cemetery for the renowned six toed cats.

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Papa had a separate studio complete with the original Royal typewriter where he made the magic happen and accomplished 70 percent of his works.

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The 55 cats have the run of the property and two full time caretakers. This one enjoys her perch on Papa’s bed and shows off her toes.

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Cocktails and dinner tonight on SABA with Chris and Dani of the Shantyhounds rounds out a great stay in Key West. So after a wonderful day, it’s off to Captiva tomorrow morning.

“Cruising has two pleasures. One is to go out in wider waters from a sheltered place. The other is to go into a sheltered place from wider waters.   – Howard Bloomfield

Wish us fair winds,

Captain Bobby and the Admiral

 

Nassau

Exumas to Nassau

We were eagerly awaiting the fireworks display at Staniel Cay for the Fourth. All weather forecasts indicated clear skies with a nearly full moon and excellent viewing. An hour before the event the skies opened up and the rain continued for two hours forcing cancellation of the celebratory pyrotechnics….more Fake Weather! We can’t escape it even in the Bahamas!!

We prepared to get underway for our return to Nassau and a chance to try out our new Asymmetrical Spinnaker. Robin and I designed the pattern and colors and it was a dream come true for downwind sailing! We were doing 5 to 6 knots in only 8 knots of wind for a blissfully serene sail surfing with a following sea. The only thing we heard was the gentle lapping of the crystalline aquamarine sea against our hull.

The spinnaker allows for a cool comfortable ride versus the wallowing motion and heat of a downwind run with traditional sails or the smell of burnt diesel in light winds if motor-sailing. Hallelujah!!

FullSizeRender copyWe arrived in Normans Cay, famous for drug running in the 80s, but there was no sign of that activity when we anchored off of Battery Point for a quiet night on the hook. As usual, we took a dip in the shallow, pristine water before a sundowner cocktail and dinner.

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The next day we traveled about 36 miles to Rose Island just a few miles east of Nassau. Day number two of peaceful downwind sailing under spinnaker was as good as it gets on a cruising sailboat.

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Along the way we had to cross the notorious Yellow Bank known for the numerous coral heads that threaten to take a bite out of your keel. The clarity of the water allows you to easily dodge these devils and although it appears that the “rocks” were near the surface, we never saw any depth less than 10 feet. Since we draw 6 feet there was no problem.

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We tucked into Rose Island Anchorage for the night, but the surge and wind were relentless and made us eager to head out early to travel to Nassau Harbor for topping up of fuel and to tie up at the Hurricane Hole Yacht Club.

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Having been away from Nassau for 12 days, it was time to tend to such mundane tasks as laundry, fresh food shopping, and boat cleaning inside and out. To prepare for crossing the Tongue of the Ocean, the Bahama Bank and the Gulf Stream, I rolled up the tender and put it in it’s home in the forward cabin and stowed the grill. Between the chores we enjoyed the bliss of air conditioning while we were plugged in and planned for our adventure at the Atlantis Resort.

FullSizeRender 6Saturday, we took the brief stroll to Atlantis to enjoy all of the amenities. As you may know, it is a fabulous property with every conceivable water sport and water park feature imaginable.

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We have been looking forward to a relaxing day enjoying the resort and that we did, along with 15,000 of our closest friends. The park is so well-planned and managed that you can actually enjoy yourself without feeling overwhelmed with humanity.

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The buildings themselves are works of art and the Aquaria are stunning. I dare you to wander the property without a perennial smile across your face.

FullSizeRender copy 2FullSizeRender 2 copyFullSizeRender 4 copyFullSizeRender 5Robin found this to be her ideal way to do some shark diving as opposed to my usual method of back-rolling off of a panga into a sea of dorsal fins around a bait ball!

1There are hundreds of species represented in the aquaria throughout the resort giving everyone an excellent chance to view the underwater world just as an experienced diver would.

As I write this, we are relaxing in the rambling Atlantis lobby and shops savoring coffee and delicious pastry and planning for our journey tomorrow as we head back to the U.S. The trip will be about 180 nautical miles and will take about 36 hours. We’ll do our usual 3 hour watches, but always show some flexibility in the schedule depending on the status of our crew of 2.

The weather should be favorable with 11 to 16 knots of wind from the ESE and 2 to 3 foot seas:Nassau to Chubb 7:10

The Gulf Stream crossing also looks favorable with 10 to 15 knots of wind and 2 to 3 foot seas. No hazards are expected, but with all of this Fake Weather….who knows?!

NOAA Gulf Stream 7:10We’ll be untying the lines Monday morning and heading for the Northwest Channel, entering the Bahama Bank with its mesmerizing 8 to 15 foot shallows.

9 Near dawn on Tuesday, we’ll be approaching Bimini and then start the Gulf Stream crossing with great light allowing us to dodge the heavy traffic of cargo ships in the Straights of Florida. We will enter Hawk Channel at Fowey Rocks, just south of Miami before sundown.

“There are three sorts of people; those who are alive, those who are dead, and those who are at sea.”
Anacharsis, 6th Century BC

See you on the other side.

Captain Bobby and The Admiral

Exumas

Fourth of July in the Exumas

Happy Independence Day Shipmates!

We’ve spent the last nine days cruising through the Exumas visiting several of the wonderful anchorages in an area of the Central Bahamas that have been described as the most exquisite cruising ground in the western hemisphere. No wonder, the waters surrounding the over 300 plus islands are crystalline with vivid colors of teal and aquamarine that are beyond description.

Allens Cay, Exumas 40 Miles SE of Nassau

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Our first stop was at Allen’s Cay with it’s lovely protected anchorage and home to one of the largest populations of iguanas in the Bahamas. It’s also home to seabirds and varied marine life. We spent some time visiting the friendly reptiles and lazing on the beach.

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14After a short walking tour of neighboring Leaf Cay we returned to SABA and prepared to move on to Shroud Cay which is known for its mangrove creeks.

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Shroud Cay, 45 miles SE of Nassau

We awoke to discover our first catastrophe, one of our refrigerator units stopped working… what, no cold Corona….no way! I got to work removing the unit from the cabinetry and disassembled the unit. One of the electrical connections shorted out, so after some minor surgery and a new connector we were back in business!

We motored to a protected site with only two other boats enjoying the view, went for a swim and then prepared for our dinghy adventure through the 2 plus mile mangrove creek  that would put us at the entrance of the Exuma Sound.

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DCIM100GOPROG0070076.JPGDriftwood Beach is truly one of the most exquisite and serene beaches I have experienced. A hike to the top of the hill gives spectacular views and that location was used in the 80’s by federal agents to observe drug operations on neighboring Norman Island.

Warderick Wells, Exumas Land and Sea Park, 70 miles SE of Nassau

The Exumas Land and Sea Park was established in 1958 as a land and marine protected area. The 176 mile area includes 15 large islands and several small ones and is 22 miles long and over 4 miles wide. We called the Park Headquarters on Channel 9 and got our mooring assignment. After we picked up the mooring pennant and tied on, we were invited to a neighboring motor yacht for cocktails. There we met Ed and Christina, owners of the yacht, as well as, Monica and Constantine who were volunteering as Park Wardens. They were very colorful people. We appreciated the helpful suggestions with park attractions we should enjoy.

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In addition to the snorkeling in nearby areas, we enjoyed walking the beach and chatting with Monica and Constantine. They are now Canadian citizens by way of Romania and have great tales to tell. We were able to share a few of our supplies with the Land and Sea Park as they are in need of the most basic items like paper, envelopes, trash bags, cleaning supplies etc.

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Big Major’s Spot, near Staniel Cay, 80 miles SE of Nassau

After enjoying the Park for two days and with near perfect weather all week we headed farther south to one of everyone’s favorite spots…Big Major’s Spot!  Why? The Swimming Pigs, of course!!

 

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2How can you not have a smile on your face when watching these porcine puppies? They have organized a feeding station since we were last year to avoid a feeding frenzy. Robin got stomped by an eager piglet in the past and still has the scar to prove it! As you can see she has forgiven the little devil.

Little Farmers Cay, 96 miles SE of Nassau

Having not had the pleasure of air conditioning for a week it was time for a marina to plug in, cool down and top off the water tank. We tied up at the Farmers Cay Yacht Club owned by Roosevelt Nixon. He is a direct descendant of Chrissana, a freed slave from Great Exuma. She bought the island from the English Crown and willed it to her descendants many of whom still live there. The marina and restaurant were modest, but Roosevelt and his wife Shirley were cordial, pleasant and excellent hosts. This was another evening where Robin and I enjoyed a lovely and delicious dinner in a very casual surrounding.

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The next day, after a few electrical power interruptions, not uncommon in the Bahamas we ambled into the town of Little Harbour and checked out the green turtles swimming in the shallows. After some investigation, we found out  that the Ocean Cabin served superb seafood for lunch so we knocked on the door before the official opening time. The proprietor, Terry, told us to go away, his wife yelled at him and told him to let us come in. Ernestine and Terry proved to be affable and the lunch was as promised. These two are like most on the island, friendly, welcoming and charming.

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Well we’re off to Staniel Cay to watch the fireworks display, which a couple of years ago were outstanding. I’m firing up the grill now, living like a pauper amidst these Mega yachts at Big Major’s.

1 (2)Have a great Celebration!!

Please feel free to comment on this post or share with your friends.

Fair winds and following seas,

Captain Bobby and The Admiral

 

Passage to the Bahamas

Off to Cat Cay and Nassau

Ahoy Shipmates!

On Wednesday, our plans to leave Marathon and head for Cat Cay in the Bahamas after crossing the Gulf Stream in the Straits of Florida looked promising. The Buoy reports and other sites suggested that on Wednesday into Thursday moderating winds and seas should make for a memorable passage.

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1 (1)We had a lively sail throught the Hawk Channel paralleling the Florida Keys, wind was a brisk 15 to 20 knots with 3 to 4 foot seas in this protected area. The promise of moderating wind and waves never occurred. Weather reports I guess can be like the main street media….FAKE NEWS!

We exited the Hawk Channel at Angelfish Cut, southeast of Miami at 2200 (10:00pm) and spent the next two hours successfully dodging huge squalls while rockin’ and rollin’ in a building sea that was supposed to moderate. While alternating watches Robin danced with the 8 or so cargo and cruise ships in the Gulf Stream. With the wind on the nose we were forced to motor sail and tack with frustrating regularity. In doing so we weren’t able to take advantage of the 2 to 3 knot current to help us along.

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24 hours and 123 nautical miles into a supposed 20 hour trip we arrived at the Cat Cay Yacht Club on Thursday and were delighted to have calm once again. We tied up in a slip close to the amenities and it was off to Customs and Immigation on site to get legal and get our Cruising Permit for the Bahamas.

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The check in procedures were convenient and the Customs and Immigration Officials were kind, efficient and courteous which is one of the reasons we check in at this location. Now it’s back to the boat to hoist the Bahamas Courtesy Flag and grant permission to the Admiral to step ashore.

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Dinner at the Nauticat is something quite special due to the fact we were the only couple there to enjoy such personal service and delicious fare.

With the weather forecast showing improvement, we cast off after a 24 hour hiatus and were back at sea on Friday morning. Crossing the Great Bahama Bank is one of the great pleasures of sailing. We will travel over 60 miles in 7 to 13 feet of crystalline clear water with shades of blue, turquoise and teal that defy description.

9The wind was still strong at 15 knots plus with 3 foot seas making the usual sailing nirvanah a bit of challenge. The wind demanded that we motor sail again with reefed main so we were using a bit more fuel than planned…time to dip into the jerry cans and add some fuel to the tank for the longer than planned trip as we were already 3 hours behind our original estimate.

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The Northwest Channel Passage from the Bahama Bank to the Tongue of the Ocean to Nassau is usually a slog. With a strong Southeast wind and a very strong current as you leave the shallow bank and enter the 7800 foot deep water you can expect some turmoil….the sea was high and confused and we were pounding against it a bit more than one would call comfortable. This becomes evident when you see water coming over the bow. This is not a trip recommend for most people without a Dramamine drip!

 

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This leg of the trip was 126 nautical miles over 26 hours. Needless to say we were delighted to be back at Nassau Yacht Harbor right in the middle of the Marina District and close to shopping and services. We tied up, rinsed off an ample coating of salt from the deck from all of the spray and tidied up the cabin before a shower, two hour nap and a great dinner at the Poop Deck…always fun with good Bahamian food right at the Marina.

15Morning had us walking the three blocks to Starbucks for a coffee and some internet tasks and then on to the Fresh Market next door. Nothing better than a well stocked grocery with a great bakery to replenish our stores.

Then, a short walk to the Potters Cay Market, a great local spot for some fresh Conch Salad. The location is a bit rough, but the conch ceviche is superb. Here you see Robin and I consulting with Conchmaster Craig of Skinnys Place.

 

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Back to the Marina for some boat chores and blogging while Robin gets household chores totally under control. Not only is Robin a good navigator, pilot, planner, cook and First Mate, but she is lovely to be with. To quote Eric Hiscock, famous author and sailor, “the only way to get a good crew is to marry one.”

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As always, wish us fair winds. So far have 469 nautical miles (540 statute miles) under our keel and it’s off to the Exumas tomorrow after a two day stay in Nassau. It should be a pleasant 45 mile sail with 10 to 15 knots of wind and 2 foot seas….if that news isn’t fake too!

Captain Bobby and the Commish

Cast off for the Bahamas

Back to the Bahamas Mon

Ahoy Mates!

We have been planning our return to the “Islands in the Stream” since we visited last summer. Getting our modest Hunter 38 sailboat ready for this return trip was becoming part of a familiar routine: checking and repairing systems, bottom painting, rig tuning, engine maintenance, sail repair, hull and deck waxing, food and drink provisioning followed by finding a home for all of the clothes and stuff we are bringing. This trip we’ll have a brand new life raft aboard that we hope we’ll never need and I am bringing a full set of dive gear along with the snorkeling equipment and sartorials.

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Needless to say there was quite a bit of preparation involved in planning a 36 day trip that will take us over 1300 nautical miles (that’s 1500 statute miles to landlubbers). Our Float Plan that we filed will take us to 19 destinations which is probably a bit ambitious, but will the final plan will be determined by wind, weather and our mood. Yacht Broker and writer Dom Degnon quips,   ” The lovely thing about cruising is that planning usually turns out to be of little use”.

With a keen eye to the weather, which has been miserable in SW Florida for the past two weeks, the forecast from St. Petersburg to Marathon called for light to moderate wind at 6 to 12 knots out of the Southeast and 2 foot seas with occasional showers and thunderstorms. I’ll take it!! The longer range forecast for a Gulfstream crossing wasn’t quite as favorable, but it’s off to Marathon and we’ll check for a weather window then.

We cast off the lines at 0800 on Friday morning in flat calm and long awaited sunshine and motored out of the Vinoy Basin and bid St. Petersburg a fond adieu. Since I downloaded updates to my electronic charts and chartplotter we had to do a slow dance in Tampa Bay with our autopilot control in order to recalibrate it and avoid coming to grips with disaster.

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Just two hours later we were under the Sunshine Skway Bridge soon to be heading South after we rounded Anna Maria Island. The weather was as predicted, but with the wind out of the Southeast and our heading of 150 the wind was on our nose for most of the trip. We unfurled a reefed main to steady the boat, but were very comfortable in 1-2 foot seas.

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As the day passed, we dried out our wet docklines and went about our daily routines of monitoring weather, checking all systems periodically and meal preparation.

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I discovered a leaky stuffing box due to a loose packing nut. Yes, I know it sounds like a nasty sexual reference, but I’ll address that later. We motorsailed on through the day, observed the expected sundown and began to settle in for some night sailing.

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The 220 mile trip to Marathon travelling at about 6 knots will put us into Marathon at 8:00 pm just before sundown on Saturday. Most people seem to think that we tie up at a marina at night or perhaps anchor out and sleep. Well if we did that we wouldn’t travel very far in a day. We sail through the night by alternating watches every 3 hours so that we can cover about 140 miles per day. Night sailing on Friday was particularly wonderful and with the lack of total cloud cover the stars were out in force. Fabulous! Equally wonderful was that by using radar we were able to dodge the occasional storm clouds so were able to keep dry the entire way.

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You know you’re in Marathon when you spot the Seven Mile Bridge. As you may know this bridge has been used in many films including “True Lies”. They shot the scene where there was a terrorist confrontation and vehicle conflagration, but I digress.  This older span was replaced by a new 65 foot fixed bridge, but looking up when you transit below it with a 62 foot mast is always a bit nervewracking. It always looks at though you’ll slam the stick into the bridge.

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Robin brought us under the bridge without a problem and we turned for Boot Key Harbor in Marathon where I called ahead for a mooring. We choose this spot because of the 360 degree protection. There are over 200 moorings available and is geared for cruisers who may need supplies or marine services. In addition, there are full service marinas nearby. We picked up the mooring at 2000 (8:00 pm) and I got the grill ready for some Chicken Teriaki Kabobs. We relaxed with a libation and dinner and prepared for a lovely, peaceful and breezy sleep on a stable memory foam matress. AAAAHHHHH!!

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The crucial parts of a successful trip are a worthy vessel, a competent  crew and settled weather. We have been following the weather daily for weeks and the current prognostication for the Marathon to Bahamas crossing has not changed significantly. It’s miserable! 20 knots of wind from the ESE and 5-6 foot seas. No Thank You!

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Sunday morining, we decided to move the boat from the mooring, and on our way to the nearby Marathon Marina, fuel up at Burdine’s. We filled our tank and topped up what we transferred from the jerry cans on the trip and then tied up at slip 92 at the Marina. We expect the weather to improve on Wednesday when the winds will drop from 17 knots to 8 knots and seas from 5 feet to 3.

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The day was overcast with heavy rain in the afternoon and more coming on Monday. Tuesday should be sunny, but windy with high seas. What a great time to address that leaky stuffing box! I promised an explanation. The prop shaft travels from the engine to the prop and passes through the hull. The stuffing box is what seals the gap between the shaft and hull and keeps the water out. If the stuffing box is loose, water rushes in and it could sink the boat. I know, it almost happened to me!

On a trip from Puerto Rico to Lauderdale traveling 20 miles north of Cuba on a Caliber 47, I went below to get a sandwich and found I was ankle deep in water!! That’ll get your attention. There were only two of us on board for this delivery, I called for my buddy Mats and he quickly diagnosed a problem with a blown suffing box and tended to it. As a very frightened man with a bucket, I became a very effective bilge pump. After 1/2 hour of frantic bailing we got the situation under control and then replaced the faulty bilge pump. Needless to say, I always monitor the stuffing box. Here you see Captain Bobby, the mechanic, tightening the aforemented equipment.

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We have some other items to tend to while we wait for weather. Some are boat projects, some are not. Robin is voraciously reading and I am trading some of my open Stock Option positions. An options addict cannot stop cold turkey. As long as there is an internet connection, I’m in business!

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Hopefully, our next post will be from Cat Cay in the Bahamas as we make our way to Nassau and beyond to the Exumas in the Central Bahamas.

Wish us fair winds and following seas,

Captain Bobby and the Commish